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Hiotographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14SS0 

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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHfVI/ICIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  technique*  et  bibliographlques 


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D 


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pn   Covers  damaged/ 


D 


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Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurie  et/ou  peiliculAe 


I      I   Cover  title  missing/ 


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Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


I      I    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


□ 


D 


D 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
ReliA  avec  d'autres  documents 


Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

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sont  indiquAs  ci-dessous. 


p~|   Coloured  pages/ 


E 


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|~~|  Pages  damaged/ 

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I      I  Pages  detached/ 

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I — I  Only  edition  available/ 


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1 
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This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film*  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqu*  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


y 


12X 


1IX 


20X 


»X 


30X 


24X 


28X 


] 


32X 


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\ 
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whichever  applies. 


L'exemplaire  film*  fut  reproduit  grAce  A  la 
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la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaltra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
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symbole  V  signifie  "FIN". 


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required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


I.es  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  Atre 
filmte  A  des  taux  de  reduction  difftrents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  cliche,  11  est  film*  A  partir 
de  Tangle  sup6rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  n^cessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  m^thode. 


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Our  Tour. 


Around  the  World 


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AROUND   niE  WOIUA) 

v^>NTAlNfl!V(;    vV     DICVCIUPTION    I.N     bRlK!      LETTERS 

OF 


Nfv^    Z':;.-ilnnd,    f  4«,'3ki  r  i )..    \us'nvH',     rry'-»n.     ERypi, 
.'m  years'  r<^:'  .*t>>;-  <./i  N-»  v  Zealan::? 


By  .[.   ¥,  FLr)YD 

.•iwMu-*-   '?/   '  iifia/    Muif    f  Do    A'   he   Saved/'    ''Modern  Do.f'an-^ 


C  ^ItCAGO 

CHARLES  H    K£-.KK  &  COMFANtY 

56   FlfTH    A'KNUE 
I&96 


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^T*"**^^^  ■V'"»1"''»;fi7'^  ^ 


^'tej^'it 


OUR  TOUR 


AROUND  THE  WORLD 


CONTAINING   A     DESCRIPTION    IN    BRIEF     LETTERS 


OF 


f  Tour  around   the  World,  through  America,  Hawaiian  Islands, 
New  Zealand,   Tasmania,    Australia,     Ceylon,     Egypt, 
Palestine,  Italy,  France  and  England,  including 
ten  years'  residence  in  New  Zealand 
and  Australia. 


By  J.  F.  FLOYD 

Author  of  "IVhat  Must  I  Do   to  he   Saved f''  ''Modern  Dancing 
Among  Church  Members  y'   etc. 


CHICAGO 
CHARLES  H.  KERR  &  COMPANY 
56  Fifth  Avenue 
1896 


/ 


J_li|Hll!!HV!WF"i*  '""'  '• 


k^ 


Copyright  1896,  by 
J.  F.  Floyd 


U\ 


Hc^ 


TO 

MY  BELOVED  WIPE 

MY  COMPANION  IN   ALL  MY   JOURNEYING 
AND   FAITHFUL    HELPER   IN   EVERY     GOOD  WORK 
THIS  BOOK  IS  AFFECTIONATELY 

DEDICATED 


i 


^  H^7Q 


I  , 


PREFACE. 

Having  recently  compJeted  a  delightful  and  in- 
structive t  jur  around  the  world,  a  number  of  friends, 
both  in  this  country  and  in  the  Southern  Hemisphere,' 
have  earuestly  requested  me  to  write  out  my  impres- 
sions of  the  leading  features  of  the  trip  and  to  put 
them  into  book  form.  After  due  consideration  I  have 
decided  to  comply  with  the  request.     These  impres- 
sions first  took  the  form  of  a  series  of  brief  letters 
which  appeared  in  the  Christian  Standard  of  Cin- 
cinnati, Ohio,  and  the  ChriMian  Guide  of  Louisville, 
Kentucky.     This  series  covered  more  than  half  the 
tour,closing  with  our  return  from  the  Jordan  to  Jeru- 
salem.    The  series  has  been  completed,  revised  and 
given  to  the  public  in  its  present  form.     I  can  not 
hope  that  these  hastily  written  letters,  maiuly  pro- 
duced amidst  the  busy  scenes  of  ocean  voyages  and 
land   excursions,    will   prove   so    interesting  to  my 
readers  as  the  tour  itself  did  to  myself  and  wife. 
Nevertheless,  if  I  can  only  succeed  in  imparting  a 
reasonable  measure  of  useful  knowledge,and  in  stim- 
ulating a  desire  on  the  part  of  those  who  follow  these 
pages  to  obtain  wider  ideas  of  the  world  with  a  view 
to  becoming  more  proficient  in  the  performance  of 
their  obligations  to  God  and  to  man,  I  will  be  satis- 
fied. 

6 


6  PREFACE 

The  book  makes  no  pretension  to  be  a  history  of 
the  countries  visited  or  an  adequate  description  of 
the  things  seen.  It  is  simply  a  book  of  travel,  in 
which  I  try  to  take  my  readers  into  my  confidence, 
and,  in  imagination,  to  enable  them  to  travel  with 
me  and  to  see  things  as  I  saw  them.  It  is  emphatic- 
ally a  book  for  the  people,  and  hence  I  have  put  it 
into  as  few  words  as  possible  to  furnish  an  intelligent 
account  of  the  long  journey,  so  that  the  price  of  the 
book  may  be  within  the  reach  of  all. 

As  I  made  my  home  for  about  ten  years  in  New 
Zealand  and  Australia,  I  have  the  advantage  of  being 
able  to  speak  of  these  countries  with  some  degree  of 
authority 

The  plural  pronoun  "we"  is  not  used  in  an  edi- 
torial sense,  but  to  denote  the  party,  consisting  of 
three  "globe-trotters,"  namely,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Trotter 
and  the  little  trotter,  the  little  trotter  starting  trot- 
ting when  an  infant  and  being  near  twelve  years  old 
when  he  finished  the  circular  trot. 

With  p'.  Its  imperfections  I  hand  over  the  book  to 
the  public  for  what  it  is  worth,  and  trust  that  each 
reader  of  its  pages  will  judge  it  Avith  merciful  judg- 
ment and  be  profited  by  those  features  of  it  which 
may  prove  able  to  stand  the  test. 

J.  F.  Floyd 
Chicago,  March,  1896, 


4 


.-■'i' 


:■ 


CONTENTS. 

LETTER 

I.  Making  the  Start ^^^^^ 

II.  From  the  Golden  Gate  to   the   Paradise 

of  the  Pacific , . 

III.  CroHsing-  the  Pacific  Ocea!i [[][]      oj 

IV.  Our  First  Impressions  of  New  Zealand . .      28 
V.  General  Description  of  New  Zealand. . . '        34 

VI.  The  People  of  New  Zealand ,,[[[[  41 

VII.  The  Natives  of  New  Zealand 4^ 

VIII.  In  Anst.    lif? 50 

IX.  A  Short  Sketch  of  Australia Qj 

X.  Our  Return  to  New  Zealand 72 

XI.  Leaving  New  Zealand "8 

XII.  From  Dunedin  to  Melbourne S3 

XIII.  From  Melbourne  to  Adelaide 8S 

XIV.  On  the  Indian  Ocean 9^ 

XV.  In  Colombo,  Ceylon j^^ 

XVI.  On  the  Red  Sea [   '' j^^ 

XVII.  Israels  Passage  Through  the  Red  Sea. . . .  m 
XVIII.  From  Ismailia  to  Cairo j  ji 

XIX.  Off  to  the  P.vramids m> 

XX.  Among  the  Ro.val  Mummies 12I 

XXI.  Among  the  Mosques  and  Bazaars 125 

XXII.  From  Egypt  to  Palestine 131 

XXIII.  Landing  at  Joppa 13(5 

XXIV.  In  Joppa j4q 

XXV.  Going  Up  to  Jerusalem J45 

XXVI.  In  Jerusalem 2.53 


■1 


'^  CONTENTS  " 

LETTER  p^Qg 

XXVI I.  Iiisido  the  WhIIh 15H 

X XVI 1 1.  A  Viwit  to  the  Traditional  Calvary \{\4 

X XIX.  A  ViHit  to  the  True  Calvary 17 j 

XXX.  Down  to  Jericho [j^ 

XXXI.  A  Visit  to  the  Dead  Sea i84 

XXXII.  A  Visit  to  the  .Ionian 190 

XXXIII.  A  Visit  to  liethleliein jjjj 

XXXIV.  In  tlie  Cluireli  oi'  Ihe  Xativity 202 

XXXV.  Walks  About  .lerusaleni 208 

XXXVI.  From  Jerusalem  to  Xaples 210 

XXXVII.  Seein.s?  Naples 222 

XXXVIII.  A  Wallc  Throuji^h  Pompeii 228 

XXXIX.  Climl)ing  Mount  Vesuvius 282 

XL.  So  We  Went  Toward  Rome 240 

XLI.  From  Rome  to  Paris 2.50 

XLII.  From  Paris  to  London 25.') 

XLIII.  From  London  Home 261 

XLIV.  Conclusion 265 


I  / 

r 


/ 


i 


i 


1 1 


OUR  TOUR 

AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

LETTER    I. 

MAKING    THE    START. 

The  start  was  made  from  Lexington,   Kentucky. 
Kentucky  was  my  native  state.     It  was  the  home  of 
my  wife's  parents.     On  June  10,  1876,  I  had  gradu- 
iftted  in  the  College  of  the  Bible,  Kentucky  University, 
and  the  pleasant  memories  of  my  closing  school-days 
were  still  fresh  in  my  mind.     Lexington,  therefore, 
seems  to  be  the  appropriate  starting-point  for  sucli 
a  tour.     It  was  on  October  24,  1882,    that   we  bade 
farewell  to  our  friends,  took    our  seats  in  the  train 
at  the  Lexington  depot  and  started  westward  on  our 
long  journey,  with  only  a  vague  idea  of  how  and  when 
the  journey  would  be  finished.     But  Providence  fa- 
vored us,  and  as  we  traveled  from  point  to  point 
during  week8,months  and  years  our  idea   gradually 
took  more  definite  shape,  until  finally  our  long  cher- 
ished hope  was  fully  realized  in  making  the  complete 
circuit  of  the  globe. 

I  need  only  briefly  describe  our  rapid  ride  across 

9 


iMk 


^t)  OUR   TOUR    AROUND    THE    WORLD 

Hie  greater  portion  of  the  American  continent.  A 
journey  through  the  United  States  is  now  an  every- 
day occurrence,  and  many  people  have  become  famil- 
mr  with  the  scenes  along  the  various  railway  lines 
leading  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific  Coast. 

We  took  the    southern   route  to  San  Francisco 
passing  through  Ohio,    Indiana,   Illinois,  Missouri, 
Kansas,  Colorado,  New  Mexico,  Arizona,  and  South- 
ern  California,     We  admired  the  fertile  plains  of 
Kansas  and  other  states,  and  were  delighted  with  the 
scenery  as  we  went  zigzagging  over  the  southern  spurs 
of  the  Kocky  Mountains.     We  took  special  notice  of 
the  odd  looking  towns  of  New  Mexico.    We  saw  tons 
of  red  pepper.     They  prepared  it  for  drying  in   the 
sun  by  spreading  it  on   top  of  the  flat-roofed  mud 
houses  of  the   Mexicans,   or  stringing  the  pods  on 
poles  and  strings.     Verily  the  Mexicans  are  fond  of 
hot  food.    In  Arizona  we  were  interested  in   the  half 
savage  Indians  and  their  wigwams.   These  fierce  look- 
ing red  men  were  clothed  in   primitive  style      They 
had  adopted  mother  Eve's  costume,except  that  a  piece 
of  cotton  cloth  the  size  of  a  pocket  handkerchief,ad- 
justed  about  their  loins,  had   taken  the  place  of  the 
fig  leaf.     Sometimes  this  simple  costume  is  supple- 
mented  with  a  trailing  strip  of  red  material  danglin- 
from  the  rear  belt,  like  the  tail  of  a  monkey.     These 
people    will  not,   however,    supply    the   Darwinian 
"missing  link." 

Yuma  City,  situated  on  the  eastern   bank  of  the 

Colorado  River,  which  divides  Arizona  from  California 
IS  a  peculiar  town.     The  people  are  mostly  Indians 


i'.. 


i 


MAKING  THE   START  H 

and  Mexicans,  and  their  hoiiHes  are  built  of  sod  or 
adobe.     The  houses   are  one  story   liigli,  flat-roofed 
and  covered  with  layers  of  poles.    Over  the  poles  are 
spread  cloth  or  raw-hide,  and   this  is  covered   by  a 
layer  each  of  willows  and  dirt.    On  all  sides  of  these 
houses  are  verandas,  projecting  from  ten  to  twenty 
feet,  also  built  of  poles,  the  whole  being  surrounded 
with  fences   made  of  poles  set  in  the  ground,   close 
together,   and  secured  by  strips  of    raw-hide.     The 
houses  and  fences  present  a  very  ragged  appearance. 
We  were  equally  interested  in  tha  Giant  Cactus,' 
also  called  the  ''Boss"  cactus  of  the  world,  which  is 
peculiar  to  these  southwestern  deserts.     Before  ap- 
proaching the  Gila  River  we  passed  through  a  vast 
expanse  of  desert  country,  known  as  the  Gila  Desert, 
inhabited  solely   by  rattlesnakes,  lizards,    owls  and 
woodpeckers.     This  is  the  home  of  the  "Boss"  cac- 
tus. It  is  a  veritable  tree.     It  rises  from  the  ground 
in  the  shape  of  a  huge  cone,  and  frequently   reaches 
the  height  of  sixty  feet,  with   a  diameter  of  three 
feet  near  the  ground.   Some  of  these  great  cacti  have 
a  number  of  smaller  cones  which  branch   out   from 
the  main  trunk  at  different  heights  and  shoot   up 
parallel  to  it.     Each  cactus  produces  one  blossom 
annually,  on  top;  and  it  yields  a  kind  of  fruit  much 
prized  by  the  natives. 

On  crossing  the  river  at  Yuma  City,  we  entered 
Southern  California  and  plunged  into  the  Colorado 
Desert,  a  succession  of  barren  sandhills  as  far  as  the 
eye  could  see.  It  was  a  welcome  relief  to  emerge 
from  this  ocean  of  sand  and  enter  the  beautiful 
country  about  Los  Angeles. 


i 


12  otIR  TOUR   AROUND  THE    WORLD 

Our  arrival  at  San  Francisco  was  announced  by  the 
noise  and  general  uproar  of  the  cab  drivers  and  hotel 
ruiiners.     We  remained  a  few  days  in  the  city,  an.l 
visited  the   principal    objects  of  interest      We  in 
quired  of  our  hotel-keeper  for  China  Town.  He  said 
'Can  t  you  smell  it?"  We  had  no  dilficilty  in  fin.ll 
i"g  .t,  riglil  in  the  heart  of  the  city,   and  then   we 
realued  tie   loroe  of  the  gentleman's  significant  re- 
mark^   We  visited  Fort  Point,   and  examined  the 
guns  that  command  the  entrance  to  the  Golden  Gate 
VVe  drove  along  the  fashionable  drive  of  San  Pran^ 
CISCO  to  the  Clitr  House,on  the  ocean  beach  six  miles 
west  of  the  city.     We  passed   through  Golden  Gate 
1  urk,  which  contains  1, 100  acres.     Standing  on  the 
veranda  of  the  Cliff   House,   which   overhangs  the 
water  two  hundred  feet  high,  we  looked  out  on   the 
heal  Rooks,  some  five  hundred  yards  away      These 
are  three  small,  steep,  rocky  islands  on  which   were 
several   large  seals,   sunning  and  disporting  them- 
selves, and  making  a  noise  that  reminded  one  of  the 
bray  of  a  donkey.     It  is  a  sight  which  many   people 
go  a  long  distance  to  see.  ■>   f    i 

From  San  Francisco  we  took  a  coasting  steamer 
to  Portland,  Oregon,  and  thence  to  Monmouth  by 
rui  Here  for  two  years  I  was  editor  and  pu  blishej^ 
of  the  Christian  HERALD.a  sixteen-page  weekly  relig- 
ious paper,  that  had  been  in  existence  several  year. 
At  the  expiration  of  this  term  the  Herald possesseVi 
he  largest  list  of  subscribers  during  its  history,  ha.l 
become  an  acknowledged  power  for  good  on  the 
Pacific  Slope  and  was  loyally  supported  by  the  peo- 


„ 


MAKING  THE   START  18 

pie.  For  a  number  of  years  T  had  also  been  one  of 
the  editors  and  proprietors  of  the  Faithful  Witness, 
which  was  first  published  at  Fayetteville,  Arkansas, 
and  was  afterwards  removed  to  T()|)Hka,  Kansas, 
where  it  was  successfully  continued  after  I  disposed 
of  my  interest  in  it. 

It  was  while  laboring  in  Oregon  that  the  way  was 
opened  for  us  to  continue  our  journey.  We  received 
an  urgent  and  hearty  call  to  preach  for  a  church  in 
Wellington,  the  capital  of  New  Zealand,  and  imme- 
diately we  made  our  arrangements  to  go  hence.  We 
returned  to  San  Francisco  by  sea;  and  on  Monday, 
February  16,  1885,  at  two  o'clock,  we  were  driven  by 
friends  to  our  steamship,  the  Australia,  turned  our 
backs  on  our  native  country,  steamed  through  the 
Golden  Gate  and  thus  started  in  earnest  on  our  long 
voyage. 


i 


LETTER  11. 

FROM  THE  GOLDEN  GATE    TO  THE    PARADISE  OF   THE  PA- 
CIFIC. 

From  the  Golden  Gate  to  Honolulu  is  about  2, 100 
miles,  in  a  southwestern   direction.     Our  steamship 
was  seven  days  covering  the  distance.     The  voyage 
was  a  pleasant  one.  The  overcoats  and  ladies'  wraps 
whicJi  we  found  necessary  to  protect  us  from  the 
chilly,  foggy   weather  of  San   Francisco  were  laid 
aside  as  we  gradually   entered  the  milder,  sunshiny 
cnuate  of  the  Pacific.      We  stood  on  deck  gazing  at 
the  American  continent  till  it  faded  from  our  view 
IJieu  we  were  sad.     But  when   we  turned  our  faces 
westward,  the   prospects  of  treading  new  lands  and 
mingling  with   strange  peoples  made  us  glad.     The 
smooth  sea,    the  bright    sky  and    the  bracing   air 
seemed  to  whisper,  ''The  God  of  love  and  peace  shall 
be  with  you,"  end  all  sense  of  fear  and  homesickness 
was  dispelled. 

At  sunrise  on  Monday  morning  we  saw  a  speck  on 
the  ocean.  This  was  land  on  the  Hawaiian  Islands 
There  was  a  stir  aboard,  and  all  eyes  were  turned  on 
the  distant  object  whose  outline  was  fast  assuming 
more  definite  shape.  Soon  we  saw  the  white  break- 
ers  tumbling  over  the  coral  reef  that  encloses  the 
harbor.  We  passed  in  through  the  opening  in  this 

14 


PROM  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  TO  HONOLULU     15 

reef,  and  made  fast  to  the  pier  at  Honolulu.  As  we 
slowly  approached  the  wharf  a  number  of  native 
men  and  boys  interested  us  by  swimming  about  the 
sides  of  our  boat  and  diving  for  coins  tossed  into  the 
sea  by  the  passengers.  They  never  failed  to  take  the 
coin  before  it  reached  the  bottom.  These  natives  are 
expert  swimmers,  and  are  particularly  fond  of  the 
water. 

The  passengers  had  only  two  hours  at  their  dis- 
posal. We  were  soon  on  shore  to  see  the  sights.    We 
procured  a  carriage,   and  an  American  guide  who 
could  also  speak  the  native  language,  and  drove   off 
through  the  city.     We  were   delighted.     Everything 
seemed  so  strange  and  inviting.     Were  we  suddenly 
transported  to  fairyland?     No;  but  we  were   in  the 
midst  of  a  city  of  some  twenty  thousand  inhabitants 
whose  streets  were  everywhere  densely  shaded    with 
beautiful  tropical  and  semi-tropical  trees,  and  the 
homes  of  whose   people  were  embowered  in  flowers 
of  great  variety,  whose  fragrance  floated  to  us  on  the 
air.  There  were  the  tall  cocoanut  palms  with  their 
graceful  fronds;    date  palms,  royal   palms,   banana 
trees,  breadfruit  trees,  India  rubber  trees,  umbrella 
trees,   and  other  trees  too  numerous  to  mention; 
and  from  many  of  these  trees  were  hanging  clusters 
of  ripe  nuts  and  golden  fruit. 

The  streets,  laid  out  in  the  American  style,  are 
straight  and  neat.  The  city  is  situated  at  the  mouth 
of  a  beautiful  valley,  close  to  the  sea,  and  has  for 
its  background  extinct  craters,  tall  clilfs  and  moun- 
tain peaks,  the  last  named  being  three  thousand  feet 


10 


OUR   TOUR   AROUND   THE   WORLD 


high.     We   saw  the  Government  houses,  the  King's 
paljice,  the  Queen's  palace,  the  college  buildings,  the 
music  hall,  the  ice  works,  the  Catholic  cemetery,  St. 
Thomas'  park.  Queen  Emma's  gardens,   the  Queen's 
hospital,  and  the   principal  churches.     In  short,  we 
saw  here  in  the  limited  time  allotted  to  us  all' the 
things  that   go  to  make  up  the  necessaries  and  even 
luxuries  of  civilized  life.  And  lastly  we  drove  to  the 
Leper  Hospital,  in   which    I  was  most    interested. 
Here  were  one    hundred    and   twenty-four    lepers, 
three  of  whom  were  white  men,  the  others  being  na- 
tives.    They  represented  all  stages  of  the  loathsome 
disease.     The  fingers  of  some  and  the  toes  of  others 
were  dropping  otf  at  the  joints,  while  the  faces  of 
still  others  were  much  disfigured.   It  was  a  repulsive 
siglit,  and  one  never  to  be  forgotten.   We  were  shown 
through  the  hospital  by  Roman  Catholic  women  who 
seemed  enthusiastically  devoted   to  their    work   of 
superintendence.  They  pointed  out  the   lepers'  beds, 
the  large  dining  hall  and  table  and  the  basins  out  of 
which  they  ate  their  principal  food,  called  j^oi,  made 
from  the  native  palo  root.  We  admired  the  courage 
of  these  women. 

As  we  were  returning  to  our  boat  our  attention 
was  attracted  by  the  long,  white,  flowing  robes  of 
the  native  women  on  the  streets.  A  number  of  girls 
were  riding  horseback,  of  which  they  are  very  fond. 
We  were  surprised  to  see  that  the  "new  woman"  had 
reached  Honolulu  at  this  early  day— these  girls  were 
riding  astride. 

Our  drive  amidst  such  beautiful  surroundings  was 


FROM  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  TO  HONOLULU     l7 

very  enjoyable,  the  climate  Jiere  hnus:  almost  per- 
fection The  extremes  of  h.^ui  and  cu]<l  do  not  exist. 
The  Hverage  heat  is  nhout  75d.  guees  Fahr.,  tempered 
diinng  the  hottest  season  AvitJi  refreshing  I)reeze8. 
It  is  a  sort  of  mild,  perp..fuul,    sunshiny  summer. 

TJiis^  group  of  islands  is   (^licially  known  as  the 
Ilawaiuin  Islands, t:iken  from  Ih-  native  name  of  the 
Jargest  island,  Hawaii.      Wla.n  Captain  Cook  visited 
•tliem  in  1778,  he  called  tJiem  the  Sandwich  Islands 
in  iionor  of   the  Ear]  of  Sandwich.     Tliey  have  also 
heen  called  the  'Paradise    of  tlie  Pacific,''  and  they 
richly  deserve  the  name.   They  comprise  twelve  sep- 
ar:i(e  islands,  eight  being  inhabited  and  four  unin- 
habited.    Their  total  area   is  estimated  to  be    6  iOO 
scpiare  miles;  the  largest  islan<l    being  one  hundred 
miles  loEg  and  ninety  wide.   They  are  all  of  volcanic 
origui.     They    are  also   momitainous;    the  liighest 
mountain  on    the  group  being  a   volcanic   mountain 
on  Hawaii,  18,805   feet  high.    There  is  also  on  this 
island  two   active  volcanoes.     Mouna   Loa   lifts   its 
iiead  18,000  feet  above  the  level   of  tJie  sea,  and    has 
a  crater  8,000  feet  in  diameter   with   nearlv  vertical 
walls  from    500  to  GOO  feet  high   on   the   inner  side. 
At  the  bottom   there  are  numerous  cones;  and   be- 
tween these  there  is  usually  a  solid  covering  of  lava 
through  tlie  fissures  of  which  issue  steam  and  sulphu- 
reous vapors.     On  another  part  of  the  same  moun- 
tain, sixteen  miles  to  the  soutlieast,  is  a   hill  4,400 
feet  above  the  sea  on  which  is  the  largest  active  vol- 
cano in  the  world      Tlie  crater,    called   Kilauea,  is 
Dine  miles  in  circumference.     Its   vertical  sides  'are 


18 


OUR  TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD 


1,000  feet  deep,  and  at  the  bottom  the  vast  lake  of 

■rJ'     a"'h       l'?r  '*''""'°^'  ''"""'g  ""d  hear. 
ZdJlu       t:^  '^"  eye-witness,  "its  surface 
had  all  the  agitation  of  an  ocean.     Billow  after  bil- 
low tossed  ,ts  monstrous  bosom  into  the  air,  and  oo- 
c»«.o„ally  the  waves  from  opposite  directions  m^t 
with  such  violence  as  to  dash  the  fiery  spray  in  the 
concussion  forty   or  fifty  feet  high."  Lh   las  the 
agonizing  struggle  of  the  conflicting  elements,  with 
appalling  sounds  of  muttering,     sighing     moan  n^ 
and  howling,  that  one  of  the  ptty  sirani  b"ck     x' 
clanning,  "Call  it  weakness,  or  whatever  you  Jase' 
but  I  cannot  look  again. "    It  is  a  "bottomless  pit  '' 
It  IS  a  vivid  reminder  of  the  Gehenna  of  the  Bible. 
No  wonder  the  Hawaiian  mythology  regards  this 
crater  as  the  abode  of  the  dreaded  gofdess  Me'. 

Some  of  the  eruptions  of  these  volcanoes  have  been 
ndescrihably  brilliant  and  awful.     At  one  time  a 
Ountam  of  molten  lava  1,000  feet  wide  played  to  a 
!>eigi,t  at  times  of  700  feet,   illuminating  the  eur! 
rounding  country  by  night  200  miles  away,  like  the 
noonday  sun.     A  river  of  fire  has  repeatedly  flowed 
out  of  these  craters  and  continued  its  destructive 
course  a  d.slance  of  sixty  miles  to  the  sea.     When 
we  think  of  all  the  mighty  burning  mountains,  erup- 
tions  and  earthquakes  of  this  world,  we  have  before 
us  not  only  mentally  but  in  reality,  all  the  scientific 
elements  and  possibilities  necessary  to  bring  about 
with  a  direct  touch  of  God's  hand,  the  end  described 
by  tjie  apostle  Peter  when  he  says:    "The  day  of  the 
Lord  will  come  as  a  thief  in  the  night,  in  the  which 


1  •:-.; . 


FROM  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  TO  HONOLULU     19 

the  heavens  shall  pass  away  with  a  great  noise  and 
the  elements  shall  melt  with  fervent  heat,  the  earth 
also  and  the  works  that  are  therein  shall  be  burned 
up." 

The  Sandwich   Islands  are  intensely  interesting 
in  many  respects.    Honolulu,  their  capital,  is  a  city 
of  considerable  commercial  importance.  The  islandn 
are  at  the  cross-roads  of  the  commercial    world. 
They  are    destined  to  become    the  great  pleasure 
ground  and  health  resort  of  the  American  people. 
Tlie  mixed  population,  dominated  by  American   in- 
telligence and  thrift,  will  develop  a  future  worthy  of 
the  important  centre  they  occupy   in   the  Northern 
Pacific.      The  Sandwich  Islands  by  all  means  ought 
to  be  annexed  to  the  United  States      But  the  Amer- 
ican government  will  probably  realize  this  fact  when 
It  is  too  late.     Our  political  leaders  will  continue  to 
wrangle  over  partisan  politics  while  neglecting  the 
true  honor  and  prosperity  of  our  nation. 

And  finally,  here,  in  these  islands,  we  have  a  strik- 
ing illustration  of  the  gospel's  power  in  civilization 
and  salvation.  Three-quarters  of  a  century  ago 
these  natives  were  gross  idolators  whose  hands  were 
constantly  dyed  with  the  blood  of  human  victims. 
But  in  1819  Kamehameha  II.  succeeded  his  father 
a^  king.  The  leavening  influences  of  civilization 
which  for  some  time  had  been  at  work  led  this  mild, 
well-diaposed  prince  as  one  of  his  first  acts  to  abol' 
ish  idolatry  throughout  the  islands.  Soon  after,  in 
1820,  the  first  missionaries,  sent  from  the  United 
States^arrived,  and  on  landing,  were  made  to  greatly 


i>&„ 


'f 


20 


OUR   TOUR   AROUND    THE    WORLD 


destioyed.     liie  atory  of  the  long  strides  of  tl,Ps« 
natives  :nto  civilisation  reads  like  a  ro„  anee    t1    r 
Chnstmn,.at,on  «as  a  rapi.l  proce«..     The  goVpe 
of  which  they  ,vere   once  ignorant,  U  now   J  Xt 
peraona   rnnnstry,  ™oney  and  influence  .ent  to  mZ 
d.  ant  .lands  of  the  sea  and  to  the  ends  of  t  e 
earth.     The  missionaries  have  done  their  work  well 
and  again  infidelity  is  confronted  with  the  fact  that 
Christianity  and  civilisation  go  hand  in   hand      A 
lionor  to  the  brave  missionaries  who  have  proved  the 
harbingers  of  better  days. 


\i'i' 


LETTER  III. 

CROSSING  THE  PAOIFIC  OCEAN. 

Our  last  letter  left  us  at  Honolulu.  Our  boat 
whistle  souDds,  and  we  nnist  hasten  on  board  our 
good  ship.  We  purchase  from  the  natives  on  the 
wharf  a  large  bunch  of  ripe  bananas,  just  off  the 
trees,  for  twenty-five  cents;  and  what  delicious  ba- 
nanas I  We  notice  also  that  they  have  beautiful 
pieces  of  coral  for  sale  cheap.  Again  the  whistle 
sounds,  the  bridge  is  hauled  in  and  we  are  off  for  New 
Zealand. 

The  distance  from  Honolulu  to  Auckland,  the  first 
port  of  call   in  New  Zealand,  is  about  3,950  miles, 
making  the   total  distance  from  San  Francisco  to 
Auckland  6,050  miles.  The  distance  from  San  Fran- 
cisco to  Sydney,  Australia,  is  7,200  miles      It  is  a 
long  voyage.     It   is  a  voyage  over  the  largest  and 
deepest  and    most  wonderful   ocean   in   the  world. 
The  Pacific  Ocean  measures  9,000  miles  from  north 
to  south,  and  more  than  10,000  miles  in  breadth   on 
the  equator,  its  widest  place.   Its  total  area  is  nearly 
68  millions  of  square  miles.   In  some  places  it  is  more 
than  five  miles  deep,  with  an  average  depth  of  about 
2,500  fathoms.     A  voyage   over  this  vast  expanse  of 
water  may  be  thoroughly  enjoyed  by  most  travellers. 
We  enjoyed  it.     We  were  a  happy  family;  but  like 


-•im 


22 


OUR  TOUR  AROUND  THE   WORLD 


many  other  families,  the  fraternal  relations  were 
not  perfect.  There  was  one  thing  lacking  Yet 
strange  to  say,  it  was  this  one  thing  that  our  friends 
attempted  to  set  in  order  in  the  beginning. 

On  the  eve  of  our  departure  from  San  Francisco,  a 
young  lady,  who  gives  considerable  attention  to  the 
details  of  polite  society,  accompanied  us  to  our  ship 
and  introduced  us  to  the  captain  with  a  view  of  hav- 
ing us  assigned  seats  at  his  table.  On  board  ship 
the  saloon  passengers  are  assigned  seats  at  the  table 
which  they  retain  to  the  end  of  the  voyage.  The 
captain's  table  ranks  highest  in  honor,  and  the  first 
seat  on  his  right  is  the  most  honorable  seat.  But 
there  were  applicants  for  this  honor  before  us.  The 
captain's  table  was  full.  We  got,  however,  what 
was  considered  the  next  best,  seats  near  the  head  of 
the  first  mate's  table.  We  were  disappointed.  Our 
good  lady  friend,  in  her  honest  desire  to  have  us  well 
entertained,  had  placed  us  in  a  position  to  be  bored 
for  twenty-one  days.  We  soon  wished  we  had  been 
placed  anywhere  else,  in  the  steerage,  if  need  be,  to 
avoid  the  point  of  the  gimlet.  But  there  was  no  es- 
cape. This  first  mate  proved  to  be  a  born  and  bred 
Englishman  whose  second  nature  it  was  to  sneer  at 
everything  American.  I  sneered  back;  while  Mrs. 
Trotter  laughed  at  the  gimlet  tJirusts  and  criticised 
all  the  ship's  English  dishes  from  the  tough  fowl 
down  to  the  Bombay  duck  and  curry  and  rice.  (The 
English  have  no  chickens;  the  chickens  are  all  fowls. ) 
And  so  we  passed  the*  time  at  the  table.  The  mate 
said  the  Americans   at  the  table  all  dip  their  knives 


'I 


tm 


CROSSING  THE   PACIFIC   OCEAN 


28 


[ 


into  the  same  salt-cellar;  and  he  thought  it  so  much 
more  in  harmony  with  good  taste,  "you  know,"  for 
all  the  company,  ''you  know,"  to  use  the  same  little 
spoon,  "you  know,"  to   dip  the  salt  out  of  the  same 
bigsalt-cellar  as  we  English  do,  "you  know."    But 
*'just   fancy,"  it   turned  out   that    this  mate  had 
never  seen  an  American  salt-cellar.     When  asked  by 
the  steward  how  he  liked  his  tea,  he  said  it  was  "just 
beautiful  "  With  him  everything  we  had  to  eat  and 
drink  on  the  ship  was    "beautiful."     When   we  left 
the  ship  at  Auckland  the  British  lion  gave  a  loud 
roar.     The  American  eagle  shrieked;  and  thus  we 
parted  company. 

We  had  another  Englishman  on  board  of  the  same 
blue-blood  (?)  type.   He  took  pride  in  saying  he  had 
travelled  clean  across  the  American  continent  with- 
out seeing  a  handsome  woman.     A  Hottentot  might 
have  done  the  same.     We  pitied  his  standard  ""of 
taste.  When  we  changed  boats  at  Auckland  we  took 
our  first  meal   as  we  were  leaving  the  port.  The 
captain  was  on  duty.     Seeing  the  captain's  chair  at 
the  head  of  the  table  empty,  the    Englishman   took 
possession  without  ceremony.   But  the  chief  steward 
removed   him.     He  became  indignant.     He  said    he 
would  get  permission  from  the  captain  to  occupy  tliu 
seat,  and  for  this  purpose  he  went  on  deck.     Not- 
withstanding the  sentence  in  large  letters  staring  bini 
in  the  face,  "Passengers  Not  Allowed  on  the  Bridge, " 
he  boldly  ascended  the  steps.  The  captain, out  of  the 
goodness  of  his  heart, told  the  intruder  to  occupy  the 
chair  till  he  came  down.     We  all  awaited  with  keen 


2-1 


OUR   TOt!K    AlJOtIM,    TIIK    WOULD 


interest  the  ™|,(ni„%   ap|„.,,ran..n  at  the  tal,l„.  bnt 

tomi,mtelyl,is,|i,ii,..s,l,.t,.,l|„.,|  hi,,,  fin,,/, 
flui^i,,,,)     In,  ,    ''■'"""""  11"  tho  meal  was 

imshe.i.   Atthosdc,,,,,!  ,„„,,|  ,h,  ,,a|,|,u„  „,„  in  hi, 
.  «ee  at  the  hea.l   .,f  ,,i.   ,.,,,,.     ,)  ,t  „u,    K, !  1 
tne.Kl  «-a.,  oh.erve.1  to  q„i.,,,  ,ake  the  low,'    a 
..ttiu,lea.tho„o,.ahl,Mahle;aml    then    a  .1^^ 
ex(re,„e  .,a(,.factio„   ph.ycl  over  the   faces         ,,' 

.>a-e,,,.,.Mr.M,,,,,,,4,tort,,e,a,,,,.a«e:,nh    C     ! 
"■"   "     "">•  -"Ivnl.o,,   („  the  Pl,arisees,  ",vhe„    J  o 

mt  then,  M'h,.„,h„„  art  hidden  of  anv  nan^oa 
-Hldn,g,s„  not.hnvni,,  the  Inghest  roln,,,  Lt  a 
-.•ol><-.n,!den,an   „„..,., ho„   he   hidden   of  h.n 

.Khetha,  had,.,hee,u,dhnnco,neand.aytothe' 

0   J     n.sn,,.,„,,h,CH;a,,dthouhe,in„.ith    hameto 

*■';"    h';  l'»^-i  ■ n,-'     "Whosoever  exalteth  hin,! 

sel    sail  h,^aha.sed,a,„l  he  that   humhleth       ,      Jf 
sliiill  lieexaivi.d,"   Wo  were  th.,„l-f„i.  ,  """seit 

that  nil  Fn   I,-  I  ^"'"^*'''"''^'"' "lien  we  learned 

m    al    I..,,.J,shn,,.,areno,alilce;b,,ttluuafowof 
o    '.;;.";?■  '^'.'"^'■'-"!.  --'"I'ly  "..-.ice .l,e,„.elves 
s        fi.l        ;   ;;     "'"'=%'"«  voyage   ,vo  are  usually 
s.UiMi'.i    o    ,..ll„v.    (he  Master's  adviee      It,  i«  not  so 

;h;t';;;';:r''''''"""'^«"--*-'^'-'^°f^°^ 

!•>■-:-  ■I.'.y  („  day  and  week  to  week,  after   leaving 

;';;'''"-.— led  on  toward  our  destination      At 
:;•';;■•■''■■^^■^;;.lH^U^^.to,.ean  swells.  ,,,,rsl,i,^ 
"""""■I"''v:!n.v,  surrounded  hy  moving  hill      The 
-•-^1  ;"',nu.„.  i,  woul,i  he   lif,..,   and  perched   on   a 

"-.-.  .:>.'n,unde.l  hy  valleys.    But'  fc 

)'.'it   ^.u  sailed  over  a  smooth    sea,   sometimes  so 


i 


CROSSING  THE   PACIFIC   OCEAN 


25 


smooth  that  we  seemed  to  be  moving  on  a  boundless 
plate  of  glass;  and  with  the  exception  otadownpour 
of  ram  two  or  three  times  in  the  tropics,  we  had  a 
clear  sky.     We  crossed  the  equator  and  thus  passed 
into  the  Soutliern    Hemisphere.     The  North   Star 
faded  from    our  sight,  and  the  Southern  Cross  came 
into  view      The  Hun,  which  at  the  equator  had  been 
so  directly  over  us  that  our   bodies  failed   to  casta 
shadow  on  deck,  now    begins  to  pass  north   of  us, 
while  our  shadows  lengthen  toward  the  south. 

We  whilcd  away  the  time  after  the  custom  of   the 
ship.  The  '' AastnUia''' ha hivge  English  vessel,steady 
going,    beautifully  furnished    and    affording  every 
needed  comfort.   She  carried  a  small   complement  of 
passengers.     We  promenaded  the  decks,  and  enjoyed 
the  boautifursunsets,  bright  moonlight  and  the  gen- 
tie  tropical  breeze.   We  played  shuffle-board  on  deck, 
made  swings   for  the  children,  read   books  and  sung 
songs  of  praise.     We  had  on  board  a    Friend,  speak- 
ing his  sacred  language,  and  a  boastful  atheist  from 
San  Francisco.     Occasionally  a  heated  argument  Be- 
tween tJiese  two  on  the  relative  merits  of  Christianity 
and   atheism    proved  interesting.     One  evening  we 
iiad  a  lecture  in  the  saloon  on  Russia   from  the  dis- 
tiiigui.sliod  journalist  and  lecturer,  the  late  Augustus 
'Vihi.     He  said  he  hated   Russia;    and    we  quite   be- 
I  loved  it  before  he  had  finished.     Sala  was  anything 
hut  handsome;  and  when  his  hatred  of  the  Russians 
was  depicted  on  his  countenance  we  thought  the 
Kus.sians  in  turn  might  be  excused  for  not  admiring 
the  great  journalist.  Church  of  England  service  was 


20  OUR  TOUR  AROUND  THE    WORLD 

To'tZ^lh    *''''"'•''""  ^^'--y  Sunday  mormng  at 
10  80  by    he  c«pta.n,   assisted   by  the  first  mate 
The  countless  ..un.bers  of  living  creatures  i"the 
ocean  remained  beneath  the  surface.    Only  once  did 
we  note  anything  of  interest  among  the  mo^rs  'f 
thejeep.  and  ti.at  was  a  whale  spo'uting  wate^he 

Uter  on  our  boat  stopped  for  half  an  hour  off 
lu(u.la,  a  small  island  belonging  to   the  Navigator 
or  bamoan  group,   to  exchange  mails.     Twelve  »; 
fifteen  of  the  brown  natives,  including  a  number  of 

tii«  passengers.  The  men  were  well  formeH 

is  pe::i,t"";:  ""'^  ''"''■ ''''"  ^*^'«  ^^  -3 

each  siie  of  Th  "  ™"^''*  themselves  in  a  row  on 
each  side  of  the  canoe,   extendiz.g  its  full  length. 
Kach   one   was  provided  with  a  short,   broad  pad- 
die,  and  the  stroke  was  a  quick  downward  movement 
The  paddles  all  moved  together,  and  kept  time  to  a 
hvely  song  while  the  canoe  bounded  forward  over 
the  rolling  sea  with  great  rapidity.    These  Saraoans 
are  closely  ak.n  to  the  Hawaiians,  and  Maoris  of 
New  Zealand.     They  are  a  splendid  race  of  people 
bixty  years  ago  they  were  gross  heathens.     To-dav 
they  are  all  Christianized,  and  keep  the  Lord's   dav 
almost  as  strictly  as  the  ancient  Israelites  observed    " 
their  Sabbath.  Had  we  stopped  off  a  Samoan  island 
on  bunday  the  natives  would  have  been  in  the  mis- 
sion  churches  and  Sunday  Schools,   and  no  canoe 
would  have  come  out  to  welcome   us.     The  mission- 
aries  have  done  a  noble  work  on  these  islands.     We 
also  sighted  land  on  the  Society  Islands 


I  > 


laaH 


CROSSING  THE  PACIFIC  OCEAN 


S7 


On  March  5  we  reached  the  ISO**  meridian  of  lon- 
gitude, and  as  we  had  accumulated  too  much  time  on 
our  hands  we  found  it  necessary  to  cut  out  a  slice 
So  we  passed  from  Thursday  right  over  to  Saturday, 
dropping  out  Friday.  It  seemed  a  little  strange  to 
go  to  bed  on  Thursday  and  get  up  on  Saturday  with- 
out sleeping  more  than  the  usual  eight  hours.  But 
we  meet  with  many  strange  things  when  we  get  on 
the  other  side  of  the  world  from  where  we  have 
been  accustomed  to  live. 

On  the  twenty-first  day  out  from  San  Francisco  we 
sighted  the  rugged  shores  of  New  Zealand,  and  steered 
straight  for  the  harbor  at  Auckland. 


LETTER  IV. 

OCR  riBST  IMPRESSIONS  OF  NEW  ZEALAND. 

Oro  arrival  at  Auckland.our  landiag  port  in  New 
Zealand,  was  on  Sunday  at  one  o'clock  The^W 
was  warm  and  clear,  and  as  we  enteivd  /he  ^ 

dious  harbor  we  noted  its  beruty  «  t  isleT'",'""" 
and  there  giving  diversity  to  it  VVe  Jooked  '  ■■: 
the  city.and  saw  it  beginning  at  the  v  ry  Va  er'  edl 
and   rzs,ng,  terrace-like,  onto  the  hill's  Xte  tff 

~r  w""'  '°''"""'  '''""■'^^  '^  pleasing  'ba'": 

hl7h      .        ""'"  "'*  ''^  t*"  *l"»rf  by   friends  who 
had  heard  ot  our  cominir   o,„i    •  ,•    "^""*  ^iio 

whirled  awav  i,   ^        ^'  ""mediately  we  were 

^^  w. ^.,.i,ri ;:  1™.'';;.-''* 


mmmm 


^^ 


I 


NANNIE   FLOYU, 


•n  k    ♦.hjs'r    !:VtPilEf3BrONH    OF   NEW    //i-lALA.Nr)  29 


vevy  MD-^U^'y  Airh  bin  church,  arid  «o  be  soon  after- 
wards r^;v.u%.  :  L>5:j-i!i«T  the  reiiiaiiulor  oi  iiih  sojourn 
ill  Nv'W  /m/n5-s',u  I'l'ij  wa^^  Miaiiily  up  lu  tiie  time  o£ 
iii?  ''iiti  ;!^  ?h  •  ■  ,:,,iiM  in) •Oiii.i.cicj  ij<?  Vv'.'is  Gogngetl 
111  i'\in:i^r.i.r>iic  w.  rk  jtuH.i.fey  tbe  Baptist  ciJiu-ciie^  m 
tiu' C'doj)  .  \i.  i''m'  \:p,.:  M,\  Spargeon  was  very 
!ii,li,>  :,K  .XM-  i-r-:-  n>.-ry..::  ■  ^^i.,^s1  ;;iv.u.jlM^r;  and  ev-j; 
1m>>,   i  ;uu  di^if->-a!'>  .     ^is'k"; .    .;t-d  hT  jUh  !<   -t'iJAi'itv  aiid 

'ili.  tbf Tc  i>i-!st    bn  85.;v..(;;i.-,-   ,K  .,   .rja,i 

'•;i>ine  iji'?\  itd,.-'s  ?Hi  1  ^I'nf  u-inei.  vat-  down  t"  a  }i'.'u:i- 
ie<ui-^  t^pTi-.;^  ;,  Wo  ^nj'iycd  i\  v fry  tuiKUi—- nil  i*;  it.-- 
xr  .-»v.  ,y^.  ,,^vu  .■'•lort  at  s;M>o(!h-iiinkiiii^  \h-^.  Tr-tt- 
■^t''  -:.^.  :M'^-Mbi-^  ordHiil.  us  l-ie  'uuv,  ^vomuu''  hud 
ffot  r/Hrh-'i  AMckhiij.l 

<Jc»  :\uy  u)  wore  uiviiH.i  ■v  '-'ur  boQf  to  oxMnuno  h 
S>fmi!t;!i-  li'Mise  he  Ovvij.il  iw;  iju  ud'^'iiiin!.^  \<>l  ft 
''>'a^  ,n?i'>:--  :p.'d,   Soc?"i  h!  (t-r  "!! •!•!•! fur  Uw.  n"n    >,  wL-di 


(  ■    '•  :     i    /:.",,iiUJ 


•^  'S-*U!.i-l  !'»>•.    i'.i  1  t;.;   Kit- 


'  !*'^i  »'.' 


-il  M- 


1        '"?  >;■'!>    !iM  |-l;i*>»    in     t  ilvi    brick 

^  ^  ■  ' --'i.  .tJifi  i.M  X"d.  Hii.I  ilitMibad  t'K'oij- 
*'  •  i'-'  i-t!.'..  .'•.'.  WV.  (^xaiii.Mcii  it  and  f.-und  what 
\'''  "ionuUH'-id  a  ;-vinail,  "(jna)--,  sjKt^tdron  iH'>o<l.;<  '-ox 
^  >  foto  the  'a'ejjJuce  witl)   intij^oni'y,  with   an   "peji 


fi 


i 


■>i.»/L:J..- 


NA^NU';  I'lovfj. 


OUR   FIRST    IMPRESSIONS    OF   NEW   ZEALAND 


29 


I 


■If 

ft*' 


Ok 

very  smoothly  with  his  church,  and  so  he  soon  after- 
wards resigned.  During  the  remainder  of  his  sojourn 
in  New  Zealand, which  was  mainly  up  to  the  time  of 
his  call  to  the  London  Tabernacle,  lie  was  engaged 
in  evangelistic  work  among  the  Baptist  churches  in 
the  Colony.  At  tliat  time  Mr.  Spurgeon  was  very 
lictle  above  the  average  Baptist  preacher;  and  even 
now  I  am  agreeably  surprised  at  his  popularity  and 
success  among  a  large  class  of  Londoners.  After 
all,  there  must  be  something  in  a  name. 

On  Wednesday  evening  a  complimentary  tea  meet- 
ing was  tendered  us  at  our  temporary  home,  and 
some  forty  ladies  and  gentlemen  sat  down  to  a  boun- 
teous spread.  We  enjoyed  it  very  much— all  of  it— 
except  my  own  effort  at  speech-making  Mrs.  Trot- 
ter escaped  this  ordeal,  as  the  "new  woman"  had 
not  reached  Auckland 

One  day  we  were  invited  by  our  host  to  examine  a 
beautiful  house  he  owned  on   an   adjoining  lot,     It 
was  unoccupied.   Soon  after  entering  the  house,  which 
contained  several  spacious  rooms,  Mrs.  Trotter  found 
her  way,  woman-like,  to  the  kitchen.    I  lieard  sharp 
exclamations,  and   then  a  call,  "Come  here,   dear, 
quick. "  Thinking  sometliing  serious  might  be  wrong, 
I  hastened  to  the   spot.      "What  is   that?"   she  ex- 
claimed, as  she  pointed   to  som^'thing    in    what  ap- 
peared to  be  a  sort  of  open   lirephice  in    the    brick 
chimney.   I  looked,  and  looked,  and  then  had  to  con- 
fess my  ignorance.    We  examined  it  and  found  what 
we  pronounced  a  small,  square,  sheet-iron  goods  box 
set  into  the  fireplace  with  masonry,  with  an  open 


80 


OUR  TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD 


space  below  it,  the  open  chimney  above  it  and  a  small 
front  door  to  it.  We  ventured  to  quietly  inform  our 
hostess  of  our    discovery,   and  asked  its  meaning. 
That,"  she  said,  "is  a  colonial  oven,  for  cooking 
You  see,  we  put  a  small  fire  under  it  and  another 
small  hre  on  top  of  it,  and  put  the  food  to  be  baked 
mo  the  oven;  and  if  you  wish,  hang  a  kettle  over 
the  top  fire  at  the  same  time."  It  was  then  all  plain 
to  us.     At  one  time  these  primitive  ovens   were  in 
extensive  use  in  the  Colonies;    but  they  have  now 
mainly  given  place  to  the  modern  ranges  and  stoves. 
While  ,n  Auckland  we  visited   the  museum,  the 
parks,  the  small  bays  about  the  harbor,  and  climbed 
to  the   op  of  Alt.  Eden.  From  the  top  of  this  moun- 
tain, 644  feet  high,  we  obtained  a  beautiful  and  ex- 
tensive vie«-  of  the  city,  the  sea  and  the  surrounding 
country    The  extinct  crater,  which  is  probably  one- 
sixth  of  a  mile  in  diameter,  retains  the  perfect  basin- 
like  form  it  had  assumed  when  its  fires  went  out  ages 
ago.  There  are  evidences  that  Mt.  Eden  was  not  the 
only  volcano  in  this    region.     Indeed,    the  whole 
country  about  the  city  isdotted  with  volcanic  cones; 
and  lava  is  found  in  abundance  on  the  sides  of  these 
small  mountains.     We  also  made  an  excursion  into 
the  country,  and  paid  a  pleasant  visit  to  the  house 
of  an  intelligent  gentleman  from"home,"asthoEnB. 
hsh  and  Scotcl,  in  tliese  Southern  Colonies  usually 
call  their  native  land.     Tliis  gentleman  took  us  into 
his  garden  and    showed  us  a  few  stalks  of  maize 
wliich  lie  was  growing  as  an  experiment.   Very  little 
Indian  corn  is  grown   in  New  Zealand,   and  many 


OUR  FIRST  IMPRESSIONS   OF  NEW   ZEALAND  31 

people  have  a  limited  knowledge  of  its  cultivation 
and  use.  In  fact  these  were  the  only  stalks  we  saw 
in  the  country.  The  gentleman  said  that  he  had 
heard  that  the  maize  was  good  to  eat,  but  they  had 
tried  some  of  it,  and  none  of  the  family  seemed  to 
like  it.  I  asked  him  how  they  prepared  it  for  the 
table.  "Oh,"  said  he,  "we  simply  took  off  the  outside 
and  just  ate  the  soft  grains  in  their  natural  state." 
I  said  we  usually  cook  our  corn  in  America  before 
we  bring  it  to  the  table.  He  had  not  thought  of  that, 
but  admitted  that  the  cooking  might  improve  it.  We 
insisted  on  taking  a  few  ears  with  us  to  the  city,  that 
we  might  give  our  friends  a  lesson  in  roasting-ear 
eating.  My  travelling  companion,  with  considerable 
amusement,  prepared  it  and  brought  it  to  the  table. 
Then  came  the  fun.  The  company  took  up  the  long 
ears  in  their  fingers  and  nibbled  and  nibbled  at  them 
like  mice  listening  for  the  appearance  of  the  house 
cat.  For  the  first  time  in  life  they  had  tasted  cooked 
maize.     I  presume  it  was  also  the  last  time. 

But  we  did  not  have  the  pleasure  of  doing  all  the 
teaching.  We  had  learned  something  from  the  New 
Zealanders.  The  first  time  we  sat  down  to  a  meal 
with  our  host  and  hostess  we  noticed  a  large  plate  in 
the  center  of  the  table,  and  on  it  was  a  tall  stack  of 
thin  slices  of  baker's  bread,  one  side  of  each  slice 
being  coated  with  butter.  We  wondered  what  sc  :?5 
of  a  Colonial  dish  that  was  and  how  we  were  to  eat 
it.  But  we  soon  learned  that  this  plate  contained 
all  the  bread  we  would  get.  We  ate  what  was  set 
before  us,  asking  no  questions  for  ooDscienoe'  saka 


82 


OUB  TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD 


This  way  of  preparing  tlie  bread  for  the  table  iscffiite 
common  among  the  English  and  Sootcli 
New  Zealand  is  called  "The  Wonderland,  "and  such 

t  evidently  .s  in  truth  It  is  full  of  woLders,  a.  d 
the  stranger  is  constantly  wondering.  He  wonders 
at  the  natural  beauty  and  grandeur  he  sees  on  every 
hand  some  of  which  can  not  be  surpassed,  if  even 
equaled,  in  any  other  part  of  the  world.  He  wonders 

7hlN   ?,  ?",    T''^''  ""  *''^  J»"g'«  like   forests  of 
the  North  Island   and  the  extensive  plains  and  fern 
ands  of  tJie  South  Island,  not  a  snake  has  ever  been 
found  m  t^e  whole  of  New  Zealand,  except  the  dead 
ones  which   have  been  imported  and  placed  in  the 
museums      He  wonders  what  use  the  J.ord  had  for 
the  wingless   birds,  called  Moas,  which  once  walked 
about  m  the  marshes  and  mountain  fastnesses  of  the 
country  with  legs  as  large  as  a  horse's,  and  standing 
eight  to  eleven  feet  high  from  toe  to  beak.and  whose 
skeletons  m  the  museums  may  be  examined  at  lei- 
sure.     He  wonders  where  the  brown  natives,   called 
Maoris,  came  from,  and  how  they  managed  to  reach 
these  islands  of  the  Southern  Pacific,  probably  cen- 
tunes  before  the  white  man  discovered  or  occupied 
the  country.     He   wonders  why  these  Maoris,  when 
they  meet,  ml,  their  noses  together  and  wail  as  tokens 
of  joy,  instead  of  shaking  hands  with  a  smile  or  a 
hearty  laugh  as  white  people  do.     (How  would  it  do 
tor  the  white  ladies  to  rub  noses  instead  of  kis,.i„g?) 
He  wonders  how  the  large  flocks  of  sheep   which  are 
spread  over  the  grassy   hills  of  the  country  manage 
to  nibble  the  grass  in  places  from  between  the  rooks 


OUR   FIRST   IMPRESSIONS  OF  NEW   ZEALAND 


m 


witlfout  having  their  noses  slmrpened.  Ha  wonders 
why  the  crater  on  Mount  Tarawera,  in  the  Hot  Lake 
district  of  the  Nortli  Island,  which  had  not  shown 
the  Jeast  sign  of  activity  within  the  memory  of  the 
native  race,  suddenly  burst  forth  on  the  night  tf 
June  1.0,  188G,  shooting  its  flames  hundreds  of  feet 
towards  the  heavens  and  literally  raining  its  nnid  on 
the  surrounding  country  for  mih^s  away  till  large 
trees  were  stripped  of  their  brandies,  houses  were 
covered  up,  and  more  than  one  hundred  natives  were 
buried  from  ten  to  twenty  feet  deep.  When  he  looks 
on  the  boiling  springs  and  pools,  hot  lakes,  mud  vol- 
canoes, sulphur  fumaroles,  huge  volcanic  eliimneys, 
and  remembers  that  much  of  the  ground  on  which 
he  walks  is  a  sort  of  pie  crust,  he  wonders  that  the 
snow-capped  mountains,  with  the  gla(!iers  streaming 
d  nvn  their  sides,  are  not  all  blown  to  atoms  by  the 
pent-up  forces  beneath  them.  And  so  he  may  go  on 
wondering  to  the  end  of  the  chapter,  if,  indeed,  tliis 
chapter  of  wonders  has  an  end.  lieaven  is  as  near 
to  New  Zealand  as  it  is  to  any  other  country.  The 
same  is  true  of  the  fires  of  Gehenna.  Such  were  our 
first  impressions  of  New  Zealand. 


! 


LETTER  V. 


:    i 


GENERAL    DESCRIPTION   OP  NEW  ZEALAND. 


New  Zealand  was  first  sighted  by  Abel  Jansen 
Tasmiin,  the  Dutch  Davigator,  in  1642;  but  on  ac- 
count of  the  hostile  attitude  of  the  natives  he  sailed 
away  without  setting  foot  on  the  soil.  But  to  Cap- 
taiji  Cook  belongs  the  real  discovery  and  exploration 
of  the  country  in  1769.  He  made  five  visits  to  the 
islands,  taking  his  final  departure  in  1777. 

New  Zealand  is  situated  in  the  Southern  Pacific 
Ocean,  Wellington,  its  capital,  being  6,625  miles  in 
a  southwestern  direction  from  San  Francisco.  It  is 
about  the  same  distance  south  of  the  equator  that 
San  Francisco  is  north  of  it.  New  Zealand  comprises 
three  islands,  namely,  the  North  Island,  the  South 
Islatul  and  Stewart  Island,and  the  small  islands  near 
their  coasts;  also  the  Chatham,  the  Auckland,  the 
Campbell,  the  Antipodes,  Bounty  and  Kermodoc  Is- 
lands, lying  farther  off.  New  Zealand  has  an  area 
of  about  100,000  square  miles,  or  64,000,000  acres. 
Its  extreme  length  from  north  to  south  is  about  1,100 
miles,  with  an  average  breadth  of  about  120  miles. 
The  North  Island  has  an  area  of  about  44,000  square 
miles,  the  South  Island  has  an  area  of  about  55,000 
square  miles,  and  Stewart  Island  an  area  of  a  little 

34 


GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF  NEW  ZEALAND 

less  than  1,000  square  miles.  The  three  principal 
islands,  with  their  adjacent  smaller  islands,  are  about 
the  size  of  the  state  of  Colorado.  Cook  Strait  divides 
the  North  and  South  Islands;  and  Foveaux  Strait 
divides  the  South  and  Stewart  Islands.  B  oth  straits 
are  easily  navigable  by  the  largest  sea-going  vessels; 
Cook  Strait  being  thirteen  and  Foveaux  Strait  being 
fifteen  miles  wide  in  their  narrowest  parts. 

New  Zealand  is  very  hilly  and  mountainous;  Mount 
Cook,  in  the  South  Island,  the  highest  peak,  being 
12,849  feet  high,  snow-capped,  and  magnificent  gla- 
ciers streaming  down  its  sides  to  the  level  cf  700  feet 
above  the  sea.  Mount  Cook  belongs  to  the  chain  of 
lofty  mountain  peaks  running  along  the  west  coast 
throughout  the  entire  length  of  the  South  Island, 
called  the  Southern  Alps.  The  highest  mountains 
in  the  North  Island  are  the  volcanic  mountains,  the 
two  highest  of  which  extend  ''above  the  limit  of 
perpetual  snow."  Tongariro  is  6,500  feet  high,  and 
is  at  times  an  active  volcano.  Raupehn  and  Mount 
Egmont  are  9,100  and  8,300  feet  high  respectively; 
and  both  are  extinct  volcanoes.  The  mountain 
ranges  of  the  North  Island  are  largely  covered  with 
thick  forests.  The  South  Island  is  more  open,  much 
of  the  land  being  covered  with  native  grass  which 
is  used  for  pasturage.  Stewart  Island  is  also  heavily 
wooded.  The  forests  of  New  Zealand  are  mostly  ever- 
green; and  more  than  once  we  longed  to  see  the  gen- 
eral bursting  of  buds  in  spring  and  falling  of  leaves 
in  the  autumn.  Ferns  grow  everywhere  in  great 
profusion  and  variety,  from  the  smallest  and  most 
delicate  kind  up  to  the  tall,  graceful  tree-fern. 


• 


80 


OUR   TOUR  AROUND  THE    WORLD 


I 


New  Zealand  also  has  some  extonsive  and  product- 
ive plains.  In  the  North  Island  these  plains  lie  on 
the  western  side  of  the  mountain  range;  and  in  the 
South  Island  they  are  found  mostly  on  tiie  eastern 
side  of  the  Southern  Alps.  There  are  also  several 
excellent  harbors  on  the  eastern  side  of  both  islands. 
The  southwestern  part  of  the  South  Island  is  largely 
cut  up  with  sounds,  or  fiords,  which  penetrate  the 
country  from  the  sea.  They  are  long,  narrow  and 
deep,  and  wind  about  in  serpentine  fasiiion.  Snow- 
capped mountains  rise  precipitously  from  the  water's 
edge  to  the  height  of  five  and  ten  thousand  feet. 
Everywhere  there  is  a  blending  of  the  beautiful  and 
the  sublime. 

There  are  more  than  forty  lakes  in  New  Zealand, 
several  of  them  large  and  very  beautiful.  Lake 
Taupo,  in  the  North  Island,  is  the  largest  one,  being 
forty-four  miles  long  and  averaging  fifteen  miles 
wide.  Te  Anau,  the  largest  lake  in  the  Soutli  Island, 
is  forty  miles  long  and  covers  an  area  of  182  square 
miles.  Lake  Wakatipu,  also  in  the  South  Island, 
is  fifty  miles  long  and  has  an  area  of  112  square 
miles.  Its  greatest  depth  is  1,350  feet.  But  the 
most  remarkable  natural  feature  is  the  extensive 
district  of  hot  springs,  lakes,  intermittent  geysers^ 
natural  tepid  baths,  steam-emitting  earth  holes, 
small  mud  volcanoes, etc., around  lakes  Rotorua  and 
Rotomahana,  in  the  North  Island.  It  was  here  also 
that  the  beautiful  white  and  pink  Rotomahana  Ter- 
races were  formed  by  the  deposit  of  siliceous  rock 
from  the  water  as  it  flowed  from  the  boiling  springs 


GENERAL  DESCRIPTION   OF  NEW   ZEALAND 


37 


down  tho  slopes  of  the  hills  into  the  lake,  and  which 
were  destroyed  by  tho  sudden  and  terrible  eruption 
of  Mount  Tarawera  on  the  night  of  June  10,  1880. 
Tills  distriet  has  a  great  attraction  for  tourists  from 
all  pares  of  the  civilized  world,  and  it  is  fast  becom- 
ing the  t;ana(oriuni  of  the  Australasian  Colonies. 

New  Zealand  abounds  in  rivers  and  small  streams; 
some  of  the  latter,  clear  and  cold,  leap  down  the 
sides  of  the  mountains  and  hills  and  wind  their  way 
to  the  sea.  The  rivers  are  not  large;  the  Clutha,  in 
the  South  Island,  the  largest  one,  is  only  navigable 
by  small  steamers  forty  miles  from  the  sea. 

Almost  any  kind  of  climate  may  be  found  in  New 
Zealand;  for,  as  someone  has  said,  the  climate  is 
largely  made  up  of  "samples."  The  mean  annual 
t("m])erature  of  the  North  Island  is  57  degrees  Fahr. ; 
and  that  of  the  South  Island  52  degrees  Fahr.  Yet 
these  figures  are  somewhat  deceptive,  for  they  do  not 
account' for  the  fact  that  the  climate  differs  greatly 
in  localities  only  a  few  miles  apart.  The  greatest 
objection  to  the  New  Zealand  climate  is  the  frequent 
and  sudden  changes  experienced  in  many  places.  But 
taken  as  a  whole  the  climate  is  a  fairly  good  one. 
While  in  parts  it  is  moist,  in  others  bracing,  it  is 
genin-ally  free  from  any  great  extremes,  being  mostly 
mild  and  lialmy.  The  snow-fall  is  mainly  confined 
to  the  mountains  and  hills,  and  thunder  is  seldom 
heard.  Cyclones  are  unknown  in  New  Zealand.  You 
can  ])nrsue  your  daily  vocation  with  little  danger  of 
being  struck  with  lightning,and  retire  at  night  with- 
out fear  of  being  blown  away  by  a  cyclone. 


88 


OUR  TOUR  AROUND  THE   WORLD 


I'.' 


i  ; 


New  Zealand  produces  almost  all  the  things  that 
are  to  be  found  in  the  United  States  and  Europe, 
and  then  it  has  some  things  peculiar  to  itself.     The 
chief  products  of  the  colony  are  wool,  meat,  grain, 
gold,  coal  and  dairy  produce,  in  the  order  named. 
There  is  much  fine  pastoral  land  in  the  country,  and 
every  year  large  quantities  of  the  finest  wool  in  the 
world  are  shipped  to  England  and  America.     Next 
in  importance   comes  the  meat  trade.     We   never 
tasted  better  beef  and  mutton  than  we  ate  during 
our  six  years'  residence  in  New  Zealand.  The  frozen 
meat  trade  which  has  been   built  up  during  the  last 
fourteen  or  fifteen  years  is  most  remarkable.    There 
are  now  twenty-one   freezing  establishments  in  the 
Colony,  scattered  along  in  the  cities  of  the  east  coast. 
The  carcasses  of  the  animals  are  frozen  in  these  estab- 
lishments, then  put  onto  the  great  steamships  hav- 
ing refrigerating  machinery,  and  carried  to  London. 
Some  of  these  steamers  are  capable  of  carrying  70,000 
carcasses  at  one  time.     At  present  nearly  2,000,000 
frozen  carcasses  of  sheep  and  lambs  are  shipped  to 
England  every  year.     Also  about  56,000  hundred- 
weight of  frozen  beef.   Wheat  does  well  on  the  plains 
of  New  Zealand,  and  is  extensively  cultivated.     The 
average  yield  is  generally  from  24  to  nearly  27  bush- 
els per  acre.    There  are  several  payable  gold-fields  in 
the  two  principal   islands.     Oats,   barley,  potatoes, 
flax,  beans,  peas,    turnips,  cabbages,   apples,   pears, 
peaches,   plumbs,    cherries,   gooseberries,   currants, 
raspberries,  strawberries,  apricots,  quinces,  loquots, 
figs,  grapes,  melons,  etc.,  flourish  in  New  Zealand. 


t    i. 


GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF  NEW  ZEALAND 


89 


There  are  two  products  peculiar  to  New  Zealaiul  of 
which  I  must   now  speak      The  New  Zealind    llax, 
or,  more  correctly  speaking,  the  Phormimn  tenax.in  a 
perennial  plant  that  grows  in   bunches  or  groups, 
with  hard,  sword-shaped  leaves  from   tliree  to  four- 
teen feet  in   length.     Each    bunch  also  sends  up  a 
number  of  stalks  several  feet  above  the  leaves  which 
bear  a  profusion  of  yellow  and  sometimes  red   flow- 
ers  followed  by  seed  vessels  containing  l)hu.'k  seed. 
I  have  seen  thousands  of  acres   of  tlat,  uncultivated 
land  thickly  set  with  the  large,  tall  bunches  ot  this 
curious  native  flax.     Before  the  country  was  settled 
by  Europeans  the  Maoris  made  from  the  fibers  ot  the 
plant  a  coarse  cloth  with  which  they  partially  clothed 
themselves.  They  also  used   it  for  making  baskets, 
mats,  fishing  nets  and  sails  for  their  canoes.      Iho 
name  Phormiim  temx  comes  from  the  Greek    words 
phormos,    meaning  a  basket,  and    te,w.,;  stroii-.      It 
is  now  mainly  used  by  the  Europeans,  for  niaKin^^ 
ropes  and  twine.     I  have  brought  some  tine  samples 
of  the  flax  home  with  me. 

The  other  product  peculiar  to  New  Zealand  is  the 
kauri  gum.  It  consists  of  the  sap  of  the  kauri  tree 
which  has  become  dry  and  solid.  This  tre^  is  a 
species  of  pine  called  by  botanists  the  Ihnn.nnm 
auMralis.  It  is  found  only  in  the  northern  part  o 
New  Zealand,  and  sometimes  grows  to  the  size  ot 
twelve  feet  in  diameter.  If  you  make  an  incision  m 
a  kauri  pine  it  only  requires  a  few  weeks  in  dry 
weather  for  a  large  mass  of  half  dried  gum  t(.  ooze 
from  the  tree.     But  the  great  kauri  forests  have 


,*       li 


40 


OUR   TOUR   AROUND    THE   WORLD 


mainly  <lis{4)i)eared,    aud   most  of  the  gum   which 
finds  its  way  to  tlie  markt't  has  to  be  dug  out  of  the 
ground  M-here  it  was  deposited   ages  ago,  before  the 
trees  finally  disai)peaml.    Some  of  this  land   is  cov- 
ered with  oWwv  forest  trees;   but  other  portions  of  it 
are  open.     The  guin  may  bo  found  in  large  deposits, 
or  in    driaeh.'d   iuinps;  sometimes    just  above  the 
surface,  but  nmre  frequejitly  it  is   found  many   feet 
m  the  ground.     TJie  gum-djgger  uses  a  steel  rod  for 
a  spear,  which   he  pushes  into   the  ground;  and   by 
constant  practice  he  soon  learns  whether  he  is  touch- 
ing a  stone  or  a  hnnp  of  gum.     He  also  uses  a  spade 
for  taking  tlie  gum  from  the  ground.     Gum-digging 
is  not  a  very  profitable    occupation,  and  hence  it  is 
mostly  the   natives  and  a  sort  of  worthless  class   of 
Europeans   who   engage  in  it.     The  merchants  who 
buy  the  gum  from  the  diggers  grade  it  and  carefully 
pack  il  in    boxes.     Jt  is  then  shipped  to  the  United 
States  and    EnLrland,   where  it  is  principally  used  in 
makin- varnisJi.     In    lS'.)i>  the  ex])ort  of  gum   was 
S,7r)()  tons,  valued  at  about  $i>,r)85,()00,   The  principal 
industries   of   rh,.   clony  arc   located   in   the   chief 
towns.     Among  th.'se  we  may    further  mention   the 
foundri(>s.  w<iolon  mills,  flour  mills,  breweries,  boot 
factories    bjsrniit  factori.s.  candle  and  soap  factories, 
fish,  meat  and  jain  canning,  etc. 
ThisLvnprMJ  description  of  New   Zealand  is  very 

incomplete;  l)ut  it  must  suilice  for  my  present  pur- 
pose. 


LETTER  VI. 

THE  PKOPLE  OF  NEW  ZEALAND. 

I  AM  constantly  being  asked  by  intelligent  persons: 
"What  scrt  of  people  have  you  in  New  Zealand/ 
'^What  is  their  color?"     "What  language  do  they 
speak?"     "Did  you  preach  any  in  the  English  lan- 
mmee?"  "Were  you  not  afraid  of  being  cooked  and 
eaten?"  "What  do  the  people  do  there?"    "How  do 
you  manage  to  get  your  clothes  made  in  that  country, 
especially  according  to  the  latest  styles?'  etc  ,  et^c. 
Now  let  me  say  once  for  all  that  New  Zealand, 
Australia  and   Tasmania  are  British  Colonies.     The 
great  body  of   the  people  are  not  black  savages,  but 
are  English  and  Scotch,  with  a  small  ^Pri"kling  of 
other  imtinnalities.     Hence   they  speak  the  English 
laniTuage    (or  ratlier  some  of  them   speak  dialects  of 
it)      Their  cities    are  well  laid  out,   substantially 
built,  and  are  kept  remarkably  clean.     You   see  no 
purely  white  hou.es,  but  the  paint  used  on  the  houses 
is  brown,  lead-color  and  other  dark    shades.     While 
their  manners  and  customs  ditler  in  some  respects 
from  those  in  America,  on   the  whole  they  are  very 
similar  to  our  own.     In  short,  these  people   are  our 
antipodal  cousins,  among  whom  the  American  feels 
at  home  at  once,  from   whom,  as  a  rule,  he  receives 

41 


42 


OUR  TOUR  AROUND   THE   WORLD 


a  hearty  welcome,  and  whose  plain,  natural  and  easy 
society  he  finds  well  prepared  for  his  reception.  The 
children  play  on  the  streets,  ride  on  bicycles,  wade 
in  the  waters  on  the  ocean  beaches,  go  picnicking 
eat  lollies  (there  is  no  candy  in  that  country,  it  is 
all  lollies),  and  some  of  them  chew  gum.  The  ladies, 
like  their  American  cousins,  make  calls,  hold  little 
afternoon  tea  parties,  and  sometimes  gossip  a  little. 
Of  course  most  of  them  attend  to  their  household 
duties,  unless  they  can  hire  servants  to  do  the  work 
for  them.  In  New  Zealand,  since  they  now  have 
their  rights,  a  few  of  them  write  articles  for  the  news- 
papers on  social  questions  and  lecture  to  the  people 
on  politics.  The  men, after  the  American  plan, attend 
to  business,  talk  politics,  smoke  tobacco  and  drink 
beer  and  whisky.  They  have  two  redeeming  features 
over  the  Americans;  they  do  not  chew  tobacco  and 
they  do  very  little  swearing.  I  heard  more  profane 
swearing  the  first  week  after  my  return  to  America 
than  I  did  during  my  nine  years'  residence  in  the 
Southern  Hemisphere.  Indeed,  in  all  my  mingling 
among  the  people  I  do  not  remember  having  heard 
a  half-dozen  oaths  during  all  these  years.  There  is 
a  stringent  law  in  the  Colonies  against  all  profane 
swearing  and  o))scene  language  on  the  streets,  and  it 
is  strictly  enforced.  Spittoons  are  not  in  demand, 
and  even  spitting  on  the  streets^  in  the  houses,  and 
in  the  presence  of  company,  to  say  nothing  of  tobac- 
co juice,  is  a  great  offense  to  good  taste. 

When  we  entered  the  border  of  Kentucky  on  our 
return  home  the  first  thing  that  attracted  our  atten- 


11 


THE  rEOPLE  OF  NEW  ZEALAND 


43 


tion  was  the  men  entering  the  train  working  on  their 
quids,  like  goats  chewing  cud,   and  spitting  on  the 
car  floor.     The  goats  deserve  our  respect  for  benig 
above  chewing  tobacco  and  spitting.  Indeed,  no  liv- 
ing thing  on  earth,  except  some  American  men  and 
the  loathsome  tobacco  worms,  will  condescend   to 
crawl  side  by  side  while  devouring  the   poisonous 
weed      No  doubt  these  men  considered  themselves 
gentlemen;  but  they  would  not  be  so  considered   in 
Australasian  society.     When  we  saw  and  realized 
afresh  this  foolish,   expensive  and  filthy  habit   we 
felt  almost  ashamed  of  our   native  state.     Smoking 
is  an  improvement  only   from  the  point  of  decency 
New  Zealand  has  a  population,    stated   m  round 
numbers,  of  about  (500,000,  exclusive  of   aborigmes 
and  Chinese.     The    Chinese  number  about   5,000. 
The  numerous  towns  and  cities  of  the  Colony  are 
mostly  distributed  along  the  eastern  coast  of  the  two 
principal  islands.  The  four  leading  cities  are  Auck- 
land and    Wellington  (the   capital)  in  the    Nor  h 
Island    and  Christchurch  and  Dunedin  in  the  South 
Island,  all  being  nearly  the  same  size,  with  an  aver- 
age population,  according  to  the  last  census  of  about 
44  000.     Auckland  is  pretty  and  warm,   Wellington 
is  compact  and  bleak,  Christchurch  is  ilat  and  dry; 
and  Dunedin  is  picturesque  and  chilly.  Christchurch 
resembles  an  English  city ;  but  Dunedin  is  ess.e'^tial  y 
a  Scotch  city.     It  is   said  that  even  the  Chinamen 
in  writing  letters,  add  Mc.  to  their  names  in  order 
to  secure  positions  in  the  city.  ,       .   •,       „ 

The  people  are  well  supplied  with  church  privileges. 


44 


OUR  TOUR  AROUND   THE   WORLD 


1 


The  Roman  Catholics  are  firmly  established  in  New 
Zealand,  and  the  leading  Protestant  denominations 
are  well  represented.  The  Church  of  England  takes 
the  lead  in  membership,  and  is  closely  followed  by 
the  Presbyterians,  Methodists  and  Baptists  in  the 
order  stated.  The  Salvation  Army  number  over 
9,000;  and  even  the  Mormons  are  trying  to  establish 
themselves  among  the  Maoris  in  the  King  Country. 
The  schools,  colleges  and  universities  of  New  Zea- 
land and  Australia  are  first-class.  The  public  schools 
are  well  graded,  and  the  attendance  at  them  is  every- 
where compulsory.  This  law  of  compulsion  results 
in  the  diffusion  of  education,  and  practically  destroys 
illiteracy.  Hence,  the  people  are. intelligent,  and  are 
well  educated  So  far  as  the  public  schools  can  teach 
them.  Large  numbers  of  them,  especially  the  work- 
ing-men, are  skeptics,  and  free-thought  societies  and 
halls  are  to  be  found  in  nearly  all  the  principal  cities 
and  towns.  The  great  majority  of  the  people,  how- 
ever, are  church-goers,  and  good  lectures,  concerts, 
etc.,  are  well  patronized  by  all  classes.  The  hearers 
can  see  a  good  point  when  made  by  the  speakers,  and 
are  quick  to  respond  to  it.  If  they  are  in  sympathy 
with  the  lecturer  they  encourage  him  by  frequent 
demonstrations  of  approval.  This  demonstration 
usually  takes  the  form  of  sliouting,  "Hear,  hear," 
clapping  the  hands  and  stamping  the  feet.  When 
they  are  not  in  sympathy  with  the  speaker  they  do 
not  hesitate  to  let  him  know  it;  they  can  shout,  "No, 
no,"  hiss,  groan,  and  create  a  general  uproar.  I  have 
seen  the  mingling  of  the  two  elements  resulting  iu 


THE  PEOPLE  or  NEW  ZEALAND 


46 


the  abrupt  closing  of  the  meeting  ■"  d'sorder  and 
tumult.  When  debating  publicly  with  infade  lec- 
turers, as  I  have  done,  their  supporters  w.  1  i-al  y  'n 
full  force  and  listen   with  great  approval  to  their 

champion;  but  the  moment  '"^  °P.P°"^" Vht!,oint9 
try  to  make  such  noise  and  confusion  that  his  points 
la^i  not  be  heard.  This  is  their  idea  o  liberty  to 
^hich  they  plead  so  loudly.  Sometimes  t  e  Christiau 
element  in  the  audience  will  pay  them  ofl  in  their 
own  coin.  Such  is  the  custom  of  the  people;  hence 
it  is  often  difficult  to  hold  what  an  American  would 
consider  an  orderly  public  meeting,  except  re  igious 
services,  which  are  not  allowed  to  be  disturbed  m 

""rhrdaily  newspapers    are  numerous,    and  they 
move    on  a  higher  moral  plane  than  the  average 
African  newspaper.  They  do  not  till  their  columns 
whh  the  horrible  details  of  vice  in  order  to  meet  a 
lllic  demand.     Not  all  the  things  seen  and  heard 
in  the  worst  police  courts  find  expression   in   the 
daily  papers.     There  are  a  few   notable  exceptions 
h   wh  ch  the  infidel  editors  pander  to  the  lowest 
tastes  and   passions  of  the  worst  class  ot   godless 
fders.     The  Australasian  newspapei-s  may  some- 
times lack  in  American  enterprise;  but  this  detect 
n  ore  than  compensated   for  with  the  more  who    - 
some  moral  atmosphere  which  they  «-»     ,  J^'7. 
editorials  at  times  may  be  long  and  somewhat  prosy 
;„t  on  the  other  hand  they  are  -mparati  ely        e 
from  acrimony  and  partisan  bias.     The     enevol^nt 
institutions  and  the  sayings  and  doings  of  the  preach 


46 


OUR   TOUR   AROUND   THE    WORLD 


li 


El 


ers  and  churches  are  freely  reported  in  these  papers. 
Some  of  the  leading  daily  papers  of  New  Zealand 
have  frequently  reported  my  sermons  and  lectures 
on  popular  subjects, sometimes  verbatim.  Such  mat- 
ter does  not  have  to  be  forced  on  the  editors;  the 
shorthand  reporters  seek  it  for  the  information  and 
benefit  of  their  readers.  My  treatment  by  the  press 
of  the  Southern  Hemisphere,  excepting  one  or  two 
low  infidel  sheets,  the  backs  of  whose  unscrupulous 
editors  were  more  than  once  subjected  to  the  Chris- 
tian lash  in  my  hands,  was  uniformly  kind,  fair 
and  generous. 

The  Temperance  cause  is  making  very  rapid  strides 
in  New  Zealand.  In  1894  Parliament  passed  a  law 
giving  the  people  the  power  of  thS  direct  veto  on  a 
three-fifths  majority.  Hence,  all  the  people  now 
need  is  the  three-fifths  majority  to  enable  them  to 
banish  the  saloons,or  public  houses  as  the  English 
call  them,  from  the  country.  Local  option  already 
exists  in  some  districts;  and  it  is  probably  only  a 
question  of  a  few  years  when  the  Colony  will  have 
CO  istitutional  prohibition.  Also  in  1898  the  women 
of  New  Zealand  were  enfranchised,  Parliament  pass- 
ing an  electcrial  bill  which  places  the  women,  so  far 
as  voting  is  concerned,  on  an  equality  in  every  re- 
spect with  the  men.  The  women  generally  have 
availed  themselves  of  the  privilege  of  voting,  con- 
ferred on  them  by  the  men.  In  the  first  General 
Election,  which  was  held  soon  after  the  passage  of 
the  bill,  out  of  a  total  population  of  about  298,000 
females  of  all  ages  in  New  Zealand,  109,461   women 


I 


THE  PEOPLB  OF  NEW  ZEALAND 


47 


reRiatered,  and  90,290  voted.  The  election  was  con- 
stdered  the  most  quiet  and  orderly  election  ever  held 
„  he  Colony.  While  the  women  were  -usuleraMy 
divided  in  their  voting,  the  great  majority  of  the .. 
cast  their  votes  in  the  interests  o£  temperance  ad 
nuritv  No  doubt  this  new  power  in  politics  will 
Sally  assist  in  hastening  the  prohibition  cause 
to  a  successful  issue.  , 

The  railways  and  telegraph  lines  of  the  Australa- 
sian Colonies  are  very  successfully  operated  by  the 
Government.     The  Government  has  also  wiseir  es- 
tablished Savings  Banks  in  connection  w.tii  all  the 
principal  postoftices.    Deposits  in  amounts  as  smal 
alone  shilling  can    be  made,  and  four  and  one-lia  t 
per  cent  nterest  is  paid  on  all  deposits  tor  the  whole 
Ctheyarein  the  bank-  Deposit^ana  wiU,  rawa^ 
can  be  made  at  any  time.    These  banks  !'»;«  ^een  es 
tablished  in  the  interests  of  the  people  and  they  have 
nroved  a  great  boon  to  the  laboring  class.     No  form 
rgove--ent  that  does  not  consider  the  genera     n- 
terests  of  the  people  has  the  moral  right  to  exist  for 
one  moment. 


li 


LETTER  VII. 


THE  NATIVES  OF  NEW  ZEALAND. 


k 


The  natives  of  Now  Zealand,  called  Maoris,  be- 
long to  the  Malay  division  of  the  human  race.  The 
authorities  agree  in  the  opinion  that  they  had  prob- 
ably inhabited  the  country  aliout  800  years  at  the 
time  of  Captain  Tasman's  visit  in  1042.  The  Bible 
and  science  unit  3  in  teaching  the  unity  of  man ;  hence 
these  people  were  not  created  in  New  Zealand.  How, 
then,  did  they  get  there?  We  do  not  certainly  know. 
Tradition,  in  which  all  the  Maori  tribes  aj^ree,  and 
modern  science  make  it  probable  that  a  lleet  of  ca- 
noes found  its  way  there  from  the  Hawaiian  Islands 
by  way  of  the  intervening  Polynesian  Islands.  The 
natives  of  Hawaii,  New  Zealand  and  the  Polynesian 
group  of  islands  closely  resemble  one  another  in  ap- 
pearance; and  the  language  of  the  people  of  these 
various  islands  is  so  nearly  identical  that  they  have 
little  difficulty  in  understanding  one  another. 

When  discovered  by  Captain  Tasman  and  visited 
later  by  Captain  Cook,  they  were  savages  and  canni- 
bals. They  made  themselves  coarse  clothing  out  of 
the  native  flax, tattooed  their  faces,  stuck  feathers  in 
their  hair,  carrie.d  ugly  war  clubs,  and,  on  the  whole, 

48 


i  j; 
I 


H 

ui 

(fa 


Q 


o 


I 


THK   NATjVKS  fVt    K.'''vk     '  b    ;..\.' 


2 
< 


o 


An  eiiny  misni^/iuiry  l,  .  tb-  M..^"^  • 
'and  hvinii  in  'ui  i-ii-**  -*<.«[.:,'  , 

n,ul  rUlir:.   ►hut   it  ^.M.M  ;il>l   -'--'' 

their  ^ueiM  :•-  '"   ^V'  :ir-  Ati;!'.  ?    ;  ^  v  - 


>       ft 


i,v,.,  V  ^   1'  '?v'   "•  '■ 


;i.«. 


linhlo  at.v  .ta;, 

•Olll   SI     .1      •■   •>  ^'' 


;'>';"  rvi'v; 


<r   ,1  T'   "»;'  "tWi^"  '  % 


1        W',   . 


V.JS   '"Ol   lU. 


n  h'M  JV'U!  !^"'-" 


.   t"  ',   ■  k-  S 


\\.i.r-    l.-l*^'   '  f    ^  '">'       '^'  ■' 


i.ji  1    '  •  i' 


,),.  Maoris  (H.-^ --   'M''  '-'*^''  '"'*>' 

,,,  :.n...vhi>.     1    !!;■    whju>    ni:Ui 


ih'-  (iii-'stion 


ngJil  uain< 


.)  (.[  N«j'»v    Z'JiluM.i  i--.  !i 


«  <• 


!i  I 


I     I 


l.i 


ill 


^. 


'  '    ■Ft'  4l^f 


..  .»► 


"■■-*l-   ':■  ■■  •.  '^ 


1 1' 


U-    ..»•' 


^''       ., 


•••*^f4^--  ^T^;v.> 


&*^^^■^••v^ 


i  I 


tv%t 


< 


THE   NATIVES  OF  NEW  ZEALAND 


49 


looked  somewhat  fierce  und  l.iaeeus.     They  ivUo  en- 
gaged in  bloody   tribal  wars,  and   worHl.u..'(l   u  oU. 
An  early  missionary  to  the  Maoris  says:     "I'erl.aim 
it  is  not  too  much  to  say  that  war  was  .■luelly  carr.o.l 
on  that  they  might  io.lulj;e  in  their  canoil.al  least.s; 
'and  living  in  an  island  so  destitute  cf  huid  animals, 
we  see,  perhaps,  the  true  origin  of  this   horn.l  prac- 
tice, althoui!h  their  traditions  assfrt.  the  contrary, 
and  athrm  that  it  was  first  done  to  strike  terror  into 
their  enemies."  We  are  agah,  told  that  -even  when 
the  lives  of  th,)se  tak(U.  in  war  were  spared,  still  t  le 
poor  slave,  though  he  might   he  kept  for  a  tune  to 
cultivate  his  master's  land,  was  yet  little  more  than 
store  provision;  and  when  tat  and  in  good  condition 
liable  any  day  to  be  knocked  <m  the   head  and  east 
into  the  oven.     Many  a  memento  of  this  horrul  cis- 
-om  still  remains;  the  same   wor.l  wase.|..ally  used 
for  a  tame  pig,  or  pet  bird,  as  fora  slave;  they  were 
all  ,nobu,  and  intended,  as  the  word  intimates,  to  be 
used  as  food,  when  require,!.    An  aie-cdote  is  proserved 
„f  a  po,.r  slave  girl    wlio  was  commande.l  to  go  and 
l.nng  fuel,  then   light  a  fire  and  heat  the  oven;  ami 
.  when  all  was   prepared,  was  herself  knocked  on  the 

head  and  put  into  it."  ,  ,    .     •,     ,f„i,„,. 

Yet  tho  .Ma..ris  posse.-seds.mie  noble  traits  of  char- 
acter, wl.iei.  havebeem  too  oftH,  overlook...!  by  those 
who  have  written  in  th.  interests  of  the  white  man 
„„lv.  Not  much  of  the  Maori  side  of  the  .p.estion 
has  benn  writton;  but  we  kimw  enough  to  .pistity 
„s  in  the  cmclusion  tliiit  theeonqiiost  (for  such  is  its 
right  name)  of  New    Zealand  is  no  exception  to  tho 


I 


.  I 


50  OUR  TOUR  AROUND   THE    WORLD 

general  rule,  one  of  deception,  injustice,  oppression 
and  ultimate  extinction.     When  some  of  the  Euro- 
I)ean  sailors  first  set  foot  on  (his  fair  land,  thev  were 
received  with  kindness  as  well  as  a  degree  of  wonder 
by  Its  inhabitants.   But  true  to  the  instincts  of  their 
lower  nature,  these  sailors  decoyed  some  of  the  hand: 
somest  of  the  Maori  maidens  on   board  their  shin 
and  then  suddenly  spread  their  sails  and  disappeared 
to  unknown  parts.     Other  sailors  landed,  and  these 
natives,  by  tokens  of  friendship,  persuaded  them  to 
go  into  the  thick  grass,  where  they  were  immediately 
slain,cooked  and  eaten    What  else  could  be  expected? 
I^ow   ifthepots  could  have  been  replenished   with 
the  flesh  o    the  veritable  maiden-stealers,  our  horror 
of  cannibalism   might  have   been  toned  down    to  a 
sense  of  admiration  of  this  heathen  measure  of  re- 
tahaticm    As  it  is,  the  civilized  white  man  has  little 
to  say  in  his  own  favor. 

The  first  missionaries  arrived   in  1814,   from  Aus- 
tralia.    They  were  received  and   treated  kindly   bv 
the  natives.     They   labored  earnestly  for  ten  long 
years  before  they  baptized  their  first  convert,  which 
took  place   in  September,  1825.     But  when  once  the 
gosjud  took  root  in  the  minds  and  hearts  of  the  peo- 
ple it  spread  very  rapidly.      A  great  transformation 
took  p  ace.  Tribal  wars  mainly  ceased,   cannibalism 
was   abandoned,    the   idols   were  thrown   away  and 
iHindreds  from  the  dilferent  tribes   (locked   to  hear 
and  accept   the  gospel.     New  Testaments  could  not 
be  imported  fast  enough  to  supply  the  demand,  and 
everywhere  there  was  a  call  for  missionaries.     On 


THE  NATIVES   OF  NEW   ZEALAND  51 

Christniaa  Day,  1846,  there  was  a  reunion  of  several 
tribes,  when  000,  out  of  an  assemblage  of  2,000,  sat 
down  toj^ether  at  the  Lord's  Table.  A  year  later 
the  Christmas  holidays  were  observed  by  a  remark- 
able series  of  meetings.  In  one  day,  after  a  careful 
examination  of  candidates,  672  were  admitted  to  the 
fellowship  of  the  Church  by  the  officiating  mission- 
ary. 

Respecting  this  series  of  meetings  the  missionary 
says:     "While  near  seven  hundred   Europeans  were 
attending  the  races  on  one  side  of  the   Wanganui 
River,exactly  opposite,  nearly  4,000  of  the  lately  bar- 
barous heathen  had  congregated  from  all  [nu'ts,  and 
from  consideraltle  distances,  some  coming  fully  one 
hundred  and    fifty  miles,  to  celebrate  the  Saviour's 
birth."    On   this  same  Christmas  eve    162   natives 
were  baptized  according  to  the  rites  of  the  Church 
of  England.     In  one  of  these  meetings  we  have  re- 
lated a  remarkable  example  of  the  gospel's   power 
over    the   heathen    mind.      A    noted    chief,    named 
Tamati  Wiremu  Puna,  was  admitted  to   the   Lord's 
Supper.     By  liis   side  knelt  Pa..a])a,    another  great 
chief,  who  several  years  before  had  killed   and  eaten 
Tamati 's  father.     This  was  the  first  time  they   had 
met  since  the  murder;  and  Tamati  was  noticed  to  be 
perfectly   quivering  with   emotion.   After  the   serv- 
ice, when  asked  the  cause  of   his  excit('m(Mit,  he  re- 
lated the  circumstance  and  said  it  was  only  the  gospel 
whi<;h  had  given  him  a  new  nature  that  liad  enabled 
him  to  partake  of   the  same  bread  and  cup  with  the 
slayer  and  eater  of  his  father.     We  have  another  il- 


62  OUK  TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD 

Justratioi)  of  a  no})l(*  trait  of  Maori  character  in  an 
incident  that  is  a  complete  counterpart  of  Grace 
Darlinjj;'^  ex[»loit.  Several  years  a^o  a  fine  ship, 
the  Delaware,  was  wrecked  on  a  rock  near  the  town 
of  Nelson,  and  the  crew  were  in  imminent  danger. 
A  yoiniff  Maori  woman,  a  chief's  daughter  named 
Julia,  immediately  disrol)ed  herself,  entered  the  tur- 
bulent sea  and  swam  out  to  the  rock, carrying  a  rope 
which,  with  the  aid  of  her  husband,  was  made  fast 
from  the  shore  to  the  rock.  On  this  rope  all  the 
crew  escaped,  except  the  chief  mate,  who  was  too  ill 
in  bed  to  make  the  effort.  Julia  and  her  husband 
wore  riciily  rewarded  by  the  English  resideiits  for 
their  bravery  and  skill. 

From  the  l)eginning  the  missionaries  could  move 
about  among  the  cannibal  tribes  from  one  end  of  the 
islands  to  the  other,  without  the  fear  of  molestation, 
simply  because  the  native  was  inspired  with  the  idea 
that  the  missionary  was  his  friend,  and  had  come  to 
do  him  goo«l  The  Rev.  Kichard  Taylor,  M.  A.,  F. 
G.  S.,  a  missionary. of  long  exjierience  among  this 
people,  writing  in  1808,  says:  ''JIad  the  Government 
endeavored  to  rule  the  native  race  by  moral  influence 
only,  there  is  little  dou))t  that  th(H'e  would  never 
have  been  any  necessity  for  the  aid  of  military  force. " 
.  .  .  ''The  natives  were  prepared  to  receive  our 
laws  and  institutions,  and  to  yield  obedience  to  the 
(Queen's  representative— his  word  was  law;  but  when 
they  perceived  that  it  was  not  the  advancement  of 
their  race  which  was  aimed  at,  but  that  of  th(^  Pairo- 
pean  alone;  that  they,a8  a  people,  were  ignored,  that 


S' 


s 


THE   NATIVES   OF   NEW   ZEALAND  53 

no  power  was  conceded,  no  place  given  to  the  chiefs 
in    our  councils,   no  voice  in  framing    those  laws 
which   they   were  still   expected  to  obey;  but  only 
one  grand    object  was  kept  m   view,  the  increase  of 
one  race  at  tlie  expense  of  the  other,  then  a  revulsion 
of  feeling  gradually  took  place."  Then,  after  speak- 
ing of  a  number  of  acts  of  injustice  toward  the  na- 
tives, one  of  which  was  an  elTort  to  seize  their  waste 
lands,  the    writer  says,  ^'This  was  the  true  cause  of 
the  first  war."    When  the  war  was  in  progress,  some 
inhuman  acts  were  perpetrated  by  soldiers  under  the 
British  ijag.     On  Sunday   morning  a  goodly  number 
of  ^[aoris  who  had  been  taught  by  the  missionaries, 
were  holding  religious  services  in  the  woods,  when  a 
company  of  Forest  Rilles  crept  stealthily  forward, 
j  surprised  and  shot  down  the  worshipers  in  the  midst 

I  of  a  song  of  praise.    One  European  fiend,  captain  of 

a  boat,  set  up  a  trade  in  dried  Maoris'  heads,  which 
I  at  that  time  were   much   sought  after  in    England. 

"So  great  was  the  demand, "says  our  author,  "that 
,  marauding  expeditions  were  frequently  undertaken 

j'  merely  to  prcjcure  heads   for  traders,  and  those  who 

!  had  the  finest  tattooed  countenances  were  often  mur- 

I  dered  for  the  sake  of  their  heads." 

I  Time  has  wrought  a  roiiHiderable  change  in  the 

Maoris.  From  about  100,000  they  have  diminished 
to  some  44,000  at  the  present  lime.  Most  of  them 
live  in  the  northern  part  of  the  North  Island  in  what 
is  known  as  tlie  King  Country,  where  they  still  re- 
tain some  of  their  semi-civilized  customs.  They  are. 
however,  largely  under  the  influence  of  Christianity 


54  OUR  TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD 

as  represented  by  the  leading  denominations,  and 
Maoris  re^aihirly  take  their  seats  in  the  New  Zeahind 
Parliament.  It  was  my  privilege, before  leaving  that 
Colony,  to  baptize  an  intelligent,  well  educated 
Maori  evani^^clist  wiio  for  more  than  a  year  preached 
and  lecturt'd  to  large  crowds  in  New  Zealand  and 
Australia;  and  who  siil)sequently  visited  England, 
where  he  created  consiilerable  interest  in  the  Maori 
race,  and  in  other  ways  did  a  good  work. 

While  the  Maoris  are  a  doomed  race,  which  has 
come  up  through  much  tribulation,  let  us  hope  that 
the  end  will  be  better  than  the  beginning. 

Before  leaving  New  Zealand,  I  have  a  few  frag- 
ments I  wish  to  gather  up  in  this  closing  letter. 

On  Thursday  we  took  a  coasting  steamship  from 
Auckland,  and  sailed  down  the  west  coast  to  Wel- 
lington, the  cajiital  of  the  Colony,  arriving  there  on 
Saturday  evening,  and  were  met  by  a  large  number 
of  the  members  of  the  church,  who  gave  us  a  hearty 
weiconif^  Having  received  a  call  from  this  church 
before  halving  America,  we  remained  here  two  years, 
l)reacliing  the  gospel  to  good  congregations.  During 
this  time  a  large  number  of  people  became  obedient 
to  th«>  faith.  M'ellington  proved  too  windy  and  rainy 
for  us  to  make  a  longer  stay  in  it.  Here  I  experi- 
<'nced  eartlirpiake  shocks,  saw  the  top  of  my  chimney 
lilown  over  in  my  neigh))or's  yard,  wore  glasses  to 
keep  the  (lust  out  of  my  eyes,  and  chased  my  hat 
along  the  street.  It  is  claimed  that  a  Wellington 
man  is  always  known  in  the  other  cities  of  the 
Colony  l)y  his  putting  up  his  hand  to  hold  his  hat 


'4 


THE   NATIVES   OF  NEW   ZEALAND  55 

when  he  turns  a  corner.  Yet  the  city  hao  some  re- 
deeming features,  one  of  which  is  a  commodious 
harbor  which  is  usually  occupied  with  large  ships 
from  various  parts  of  the  world. 

Having  accepted  a  call  from  a  church  in  Sydney, 
Australia,  we  made  our  arrangements  to  leave  New 
Zealand,  and  after  a  pleasant  voyage  of  five  days, 
over  more  than  twelve  hundred  miles  of  ocean,  we 
came  in  sight  of  the  Sydney  Heads. 


•>r 


7 
/ 


LETTER   VIII. 

IN  AUSTRALIA. 

The  approach  to  Sydnuv  is  remarkably  fine.  It 
was  (Jii  a  tltli^'litt'ul  smuiner  inoriiing,  and  the  sun 
was  just  ijecpinj^  above  the  liurizon.  We  looked  be- 
fore us,an(l  the  Sychiey  Heads, rising  perpendicularly 
roni  th('  (!<'('[)  water  tliree  hundred  feet  high,  were 
in  j)lain  view.  Tlie  entrance  between  the  Heads  is  a 
mile  wide,  with  a  mininunn  depth  of  fifteen  fathoms. 
On  tlx'  dill'  of  tlie  South  Head  stands  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  ii,ij;lilli<)us(»s  in  the  world,  with  its  power- 
ful, n^volviiii,'  rl.u'tric  light,  which  can  be  seen  twenty- 
seven  miles  at  sea.  Powerful  guns  on  the  South, 
North  and  Middle  Heads  completely  command  the 
entrance. 

Inside  the  Heads  there  is  disclosed,  in  my  hum- 
I»le  opinion,  the  most  beautiful  harbor  in  tlie  world. 
I  have  not  st^en  all  the  beuutiful  harbors  in  the  world, 
but  I  have  seen  the  principal  ones  and  know  some- 
thing of  the  others,  and  I  do  not  hesitate  to  say  that 
I  hav(i  seen  none  unci  know  of  none,  taken  as  a  whole, 
which  will  e(|ii:il  in  be.-iiity  the  Sydh.?y  harbor.  Be- 
ginning at  the  Heads.extending  on  both  sides  the  har- 
bor down  to  the  city,  you  count  no  less  than  twenty- 
six  principal  bays,  with  probably  a  score  of  smaller 


1 


IN   AUSTRALIA  57 

ones  connected   with   the  harbor,    with   deep   water 
everywhere,  so  that  tlie  numerous  steam   ferry  boats 
can  fiit  about  in  all  directions,  and  right  up  to   the 
shore  with  perfect  ease.   All  these  promontories  and 
coves  give  a  length  of  water  frontage  which   is  esti- 
mated at  one  hundred  and  ten  miles.   What  pleasing 
diversity!     How  lavish  has  been  the  hand  of  nature 
in  distributing  the  objects  of  beauty  about  this  spot  I 
As  your  boat  glides  along  you   behold  and   admire 
with  bated  breath.  You  are  charmed  with  vour  sur- 
roundings.     Well  may  the  people  of  Sydney  have 
reason  to  be  proud  of  their  harbor.   The  stranger  will 
readily  pardon  them  for  making  their  first  question 
after  the  introduction,"Whatdoyou  think  of  our  har- 
bor?" Pie  can  honestly  respond/' Your  harbor  is  very 
beautiful,"  and  in  doing  so  he  will  never  fail  to  please 
his  questioner.   Expressed  admiration  for  the  harbor 
is  the  direct   road  to  the  Sydney  people's  heart,  and 
woe  be  to  the  stranger  who  takes  a  dilferent  nmte. 
The  city  also  has  an  ocean  frontage  consisting  alter- 
nately of  bold  cliffs  and  beautiful  beaches  and  bavs. 
Indeed,  Sydney  with   her  wonderful   harbor,  exten- 
sive j)arks,  beautiful  gardens,  and  other  objects  of 
interest,  in   and  around  the  city,  all  connected   by 
tram  and  boat,   can   furnish   the  admiring   traveler 
with  a  new  place  to   visit  every   week  in   the  year, 
and  something  new  to  see  every  day  in  the  week.   In 
some  respects   I  know  of  no  more  desirable  place  in 
which  to  live  than   Sydney.     It   is   warm   and  sun- 
ghiny,  and  its  people  are  prosperous  and  hospitable. 
The  city  is  a  splendid  one.     Some  of  the  build- 


I! 


58  OUR  TOUH    AUor.ND   THE    WOULD 

int^s,  iiotjil'ly  the  Town  Hall  and  the   G<Mioral   Post- 
oflicc    arc   prtMiul'iy  iu>{  surpassed    in   souk.'   rcspec'ts 
in  any  otlit'i*  part  of  tin-  aorld.    .Miudi  of  lliu  resident 
part  of  tlh'  city  i-  i>iii!t  on  the  hilLs;  and  the  .stivetfl 
and  lani's  are  .souk-u  Imi  narrow,  hut  well  kept.    The 
truui-cars  are    ratixr  lonnidahle-lookint,' ol)fects,aii(l 
are  all  drawn  hy  steam  motors    They  nil   start  from 
u  central  point  in    the  husinciss  i)art  of  the  critv  near 
the  i)rincipal  (piuy  aloni,'  tdie  hay,  and  radiate  to  tlw 
distant  suhurhs.     XotwithstandinK  tho  main   cross- 
ings are  guarded  hy   jlaj^men,  many   fatal    accidents 
result  from  the  running  (d'  these  great  street-trains. 
Excellent  lines  of  omnihuses  aJso  run  to  all  parts  of 
the  city  and  siduirhs. 

The  visitor  to  Australia  from  the  Northern  Hem- 
isphere will  at  first  feel  a  little  turned  around  and 
somewhat  confused.  Jle  needs  to  feel  his  way  slowly 
and  cautiously.  From  th<'  moment  the  American 
oi)ens  his  m  uitli  in  Australia  Iiis  nationality  is 
known;  and  sometimes  helore  he  o[)ens  it.  While 
he  and  tin-  .Vusiralians  speak  the  .same  language,  he 
will  soon  learn  that,  so  far  as  the  placing  of  words 
is  concerned,  he  needs  a  readjustment  of  his  vocab- 

I'lj^i'.V.    In  oi f  the  far-oil  suhurhs  of  Svdnev  I  asked 

an  nitelligiMit  h.dy  the  way  to  a  certain  house  near 
l)y.  She  |)romptly  told  me,  and  then  said:  "I  dis- 
cover you  ar-  from  across  the  great  ocean."  I  ad- 
mitted tl!<'  fact,  and  then  asked:  ''How  did  you 
makethedisco\vry?-'''C)h,"  she  said,  "from  the  way 
you  spoke;"'  Mixl  tiiiw  after  my  two  years' residence 
iu  New  Zealand. 


IN   AUSTRALIA  fiQ 

You  no  longer  have  smoke-stacks  on  the  steam- 
sliips,  hut  "funnels."    The  railroads  are  all    "rail- 
wivyH,"  the  couches  '^carriages,"  the  depots  "sta- 
tions," the  engineers^engine-drivers,  "the  conductors 
"guards, "trunks  "boxes,"  and  valises  "bags."  You 
purchase  your  "return"  ticket  instead  of  a  round- 
trip  ticket,  the  guard  says,"Take  your  seats, please," 
the  station-master  rings  a  large  hand-bell,  the  guard 
sounds  a  sharp  whistle,  and  you  are  off.  The  stores, 
though  they   may  display  many  American  articles 
for  sale,  are  all  "shops,"  and  the  ladies  do  not  go 
storing,  hut  they  go   "shopping."     The  dry-goods 
store  is  a  "draper's  shop,"  the  hardware  merchant  is 
an  "ironmonger."    The  drug  store  is  a    "chemist's 
siiup."  You  do  not  call  for  a  "wash-bowl  and  pitch- 
er," but  a  "wash-basin  and  jug."     If  you  wish  a 
spool  of  cotton  thread,  call  for  a  "reel  of  cotton," 
and  if  you  desire  a  tin  bucket,  ask  for  a  "billy,"  and 
if  you  want  a  tin  cup,ask  the  "salesman"  or  "sales- 
woman" to  put  in  a  "panikin."  There  are  no  fleshy 
people  in  Australia,  but  there  are  many  "stout  peo- 
ple," "strong  people,"   "short  people,"  and   "tall 
people."     I  once  lent  a  colonized  Frenchman  a  book 
to  read.     He  soon  came  to  the   words  "fleshy  wom- 
an," and  he  returnd  the  book  in  a  fit  of  laughter.  A 
"low"  person  is  a  person  of  bad  character;    and  if 
you  ask  a  lady  who  has   been   ill   if  she   is  getting 
"stout"  again,  you  will  probably  make  tracks  fast 
with  the  heels  toward  the  house.     Many  of  the  Syd- 
ney ladies  are  rather  tall  and  slim.     They  are  de- 
scribed as  "corn-stalks."    The    gentlemen  do  not 


.L 


CO  OUR   TOUK  AHOITND  TJIE  WORLD 

• 

walk  with  ('niit'S,  luit  with  "sticks;"  and    instead  of 
tall,  silk  liats,  nr  •'Ht()ve-|)ii).'s,'Mliey  wtmr  "bclltoi)- 
pers."     TIh' ladies'  iJarasdsaiv*  sometimes  called  by 
the  si^'iiitieaiil    ii!iin<'  of    "hiisl.iiii(l-l„iaio|.,c,,»»      ^n 
ladies  are  women,  hut   all   women   in   Australia   are 
not  called  "ladies."  The  ^'oneral   forests  arc  called 
''hush."  A  lar^'c  land  owner  is  called  a  "squatter," 
and  ills  holding  a  "station."     Sometimes  he  estah- 
iish.'sa  "s(iuatocraoy."     The  small  farmer  in    Aus- 
tralian slaii«;  is  a  "cocatoo."  "Bail  up,"  is  the  same 
as  the  American  "hold  up."    The  laborer  who  trav- 
els fr<mi  place  to  i)lace  carries  his  "swai,'"  on  his 
back,  and  is  known  as  a  "swag-man."     To    "hump 
hisswaff"  is  to  make  a  start.     He  calls  his   food 
"tucker."  The  chief  part  of  his  food  is  a  "damper" 
which  he  makes  by  mixinsr  Hour  with  waterand  bak- 
ing; it  in  the  ashes.   He  makes  his  tea  in  his  "billy." 
A  simple  person  is  said  to  be  a  "shinirle  short. "  "^  A 
stubborn  person  is  "pi^headed,"  and  this  quality  of 
mind  is  "I)i,^'headedness."     An  ignorant  person  is  an 
"ass."    To  criticise  a  speaker  is  to  "pick  him    to 
pieces."      A   "larrikin"   is  a  street    loafer;  and    a 
"larrikiness"  is  a  female  loafer    A  "i)ush"  is  a  gang 
of    "larrikins"  or    "larrikinosses. "     The   children 
thank  you  for  a  gift  by  saying  "Ta,"  (broad  a);  and 
your  friends  frecpiently  say,  "Ta-ta,"  for  good-by... 
In  announcements  for  l)ublic  meetings  the  people  are 
urged  to  "roll  up,"  in  large  numbers;  and  sometimes 
they  are  askd  to  "turn  up."     If  you  surprise  a  lady 
by  telling  her  something,   she   will   exclaim,    "Just 
fancy  I"    If  her  tea  is  prepared  to  her  liking  she 


I 


I 

'I 


IN  AUSTRALIA  61 

says  it  is  "just  h»tuitit'ul,"  or  "very  nice."  Crack- 
orH  aru  called  "hlHcuits,"  and  biscuits  are  called 
"rfcoiies,"  and  arc  always  eaten  cold.  The  elevators 
are  (.-ailed  "'lifts." 

You  frequently  Hee  a  card  han^'inj^  in  the  windows 
with  the  words  on  it,  '^^Ian^lin,t;  done  here."  This 
means  that  the  woman  of  the  house  takes  in  plain 
waslied  clotln^s,  folds  tiiein  and  passes  them  through 
a  machine  similar  to  a  wrin^'er,  only  much  larger, 
called  a  ''mangle."  This  Is  a  perfect  substitute  for 
ironing,  and  isdone  somuch  more  easily  and  rapidly. 
An  American  missionary,  whos(;  hoa(l([uarters  were  in 
India,  visited  Australia,  and  for  a  time  stopped  in 
Adelaide  with  a  ])rominent  gentleman.  One  day  in 
the  absence  of  the  family  a  knock  was  heard  on  the 
door.  The  missionary  responded.  On  opening  the 
door  a  boy  stood  before  him  with  a  large  basket 
filled  with  something.  The  boy  said,  "I  have  brought 
the  mangling."  Tiie  missionary,  supi)osing  the  boy 
was  "hawking"  something  to  eat,  said,  "Take  it 
away,  we  don't  want  any  to-day."  Later  his  hostess 
explained  to  him  tnat  he  had  sent  away  the  boy  with 
the  clothes  which  he  had  returned!  Ily  the  time  his 
friends  were  finished  relating  this  rich  joke  the  mis- 
sionary understood  the  meaning  of  "mang'e. "  I  got 
this  fact  from  the  missionary's  own  mouth.  Perhaps 
some  of  my  readers  can  name  the  man. 

Among  those  who  are  not  very  well  (ulucatcd  you 
often  hear  the  letter  "h"  misplaced.  It  is  said  that 
a  preacher  who  was  reading  the  language  of  our  Lord 
to  his  disciples,  "It  is  I;    be  not  afraid,"  read  it, 


62 


OUR  TOUR  AROUND   THE   WORLD 


"Hit  his  I;  he  not  afraid."  Tliese  are  not  all  the 
peculiar  and  slang  words  and  phrases  we  heard 
among  the  Australians  and  Now  Zealanders;  hut 
they  will  suflice  as  fair  samples.  lUit  en  the  whole 
the  people  of  these  Southern  Colonies  speak  a  re- 
markably pure  English. 

Many  of  the  Australians  have  their  four  meals  a 
day;  breakfast  in  the  morning,  dinner  at  noon,  in- 
cluding meat  and  vegetables,  tea  in  the  evening  and  a 
light  supper  about  nine  at  night.  They  are  not  sat- 
isfied with  these  four  meals;  hut  if  you  make  a  call 
in  the  afternoon  you  are  expected  to  take  a  cup  of 
tea  with  butter,  bread  and  cake.  If  you  nrnke  more 
than  one  call  the  saiiK^  aft(;rn()on  this  form  of  eti- 
quette must  he  repr-ated.  The  preacher  who  makes 
several  pastoral  calls  the  same  day  must  t(mch 
lightly  at  each  place,  or  else  he  will  require  an  elas- 
tic stomach  and  a  large  basket. 

Having  walked  one  day  some  distance  to  make  a 
call  in  a  Sydney  suburb,  I  rather  relished  the  in- 
variable cup  of  tea  Aft3r  taking  (mr  departure  I 
remarked  to  my  wife  that  the  cup  of  tea  was  very 
refreshing.  "Yes,"  she  said,  "it  was  no  doubt  the 
milk  I  saw  through  :•  window  the  s<.rvant  girl  take 
from  the  old  goat  in  the  hack  yard  that  imi)arted  to 
your  cup  of  tea  that  peculiar  flavor  so  inviting  to 
youl"  i  thought  I  never  liked  lea  quite  so  well 
after  that.  I  may  remark  just  here  that  it  is  not 
the  custom  of  the  Sydney  i)eople  to  milk  goats  imme- 
diately before  a  tea  imrtv. 
In  Sydney  we  8p(3nt  three  very  pleasant  and  sue- 


IN    AU3TRAMA 


68 


^ 


cessful  ynars.  I  wa.s  ooiiHtantly  preaching  the  gos- 
pf'l,  h'cturing  on  dii.stian  Evidcnoi's  and  lioldiiig 
public;  dchntci.  In  one  debate  wh'uih  lasti'd  four 
evenings,  I  met  the  ehanii)ion  atheist,  a  disciple  of 
Herbert  Spencer,  sent  out  from  London  to  demolish 
Christianity  in  Xe\v  South  Wah^s.  He  did  not  suc- 
ceed in  liis  work  of  demolition.  Tiie  v(H-y  ''Hall  of 
Science,"  the  foundation  of  which  he  and  his  support- 
ers laid  in  Sydney  with  a  great  flourish  of  inlidel 
rams'  horns,  Inis  been  secured  l)y  the  churcdi  for  which 
I  i)r(>a<died,  and  is  jiow  used  as  a  houses  of  (Jod,  It 
is  only  anotlier  case  in  wjiiidi  the  rider  of  the  dumb 
ass  who  set  out  to  curse  Israel  has  been  made  to 
bless  the  Lord's  people. 

Sydney  was  the  stronghold  of  infidelity,  and  I 
elected  to  meet  it  on  its  own  ground  To  this  (Uid  I 
was  instrumental  in  organizing  the  Christian  p]vi- 
dence  and  Defense  Society  of  Xew  South  Wales,  un- 
der which  it  was  my  i)leasure  to  deliver  two  courses 
of  lectures  t )  large  and  appreciative  audiences  in  a 
popuhir  hall  in  the  heart  of  the  city ;  the  chair  being 
occu[)i(Hl  by  ji  niaynr,  n  member  of  Parliament  and 
other  prominent  citizens,  and  the  lectures  being  ex- 
tensively reported  in  the  daily  papers.  In  s|)eaking 
of  (he  work  of  this  sncii'ty  its  president,  in  writing 
in  ;i  Melbourne  pa|)>'r,  said  :  -'Any  of  th"-^e  whose 
privilege  it  was  to  regularly  attend  the  lectures  given 
in  the  TemixTance  Hall.  Pill  Street,  for  two  M'asons 
past,  will  bear  us  c^it  when  we  say  that  the  work 
done  by  the  society  has  been  a  great,  success.  We 
have  abundant  evidence    to  prove  tiuit  the  lectures 


64 


OUR   TOrii   AROUND   THE    WORLD 


were  a])pivcia(<'(l,  niid  wcro  instrumental   in  remov- 
ing' (lilliculti.'s  from  the  tiiinds  of  hoili  believers  and 
unlnilievcrs.''     Aifivd  All.-n,  a    niomhor  of  tlie  New 
Houtli  Wales  I'arlianKiii.  wIk.  |)resi(le(l  over  a  num- 
ber (jf  tlx's.-  Icctinvs^  ii,   a  lelt«n'  of  commendation, 
alsofiuys:     " I  n.vcr  li^anl   a   umre  able  defense   of 
Cliristian  tiuili.     I  ('..nsidcr   tlie  cause  of  Christian 
trutli  has  a  vorv  able  and  |)ains-talvin^r  advocate  in  J. 
F.FJoyd.     1   do  not    know   Jiis  ("(jual   in   calm    and 
tbouphtfiil  controvcrsv. " 

Kach  summer  we  (ook  a  fortnight  iioliday.   While 
other  |)eo))le  wen.  rushinnr  oil' to  otJier  cities   or  to 
the  niountain  slopes,  we  preferred  to  spend   our  hol- 
iday in  the  woods  among  the  iiowersand  beside S(mie 
l)eautiliil  bay.     Tent-Jife  amidst   such  surroundings, 
supi)lemented  by  the  cdear  sky  of  x\ew  IS(»uth  Wales,' 
is  a  real    pleasure.     One   afternoon   on    a    beautiful 
si)ringday,inyself  and  wib;  decided  to  select  our  hol- 
iday camping  ground.     We  took  the  tram    running 
severe  1  miles  toward   the  occmn ;    and   reaching  the 
termnius,  we  walked  some  three  miles  to  a  secluded 
little  bay.      There  was  only  ono  small  house  in  the 
"bush'^  near  the  bay.     Here  we    found  a  hard-faced 
laborer,  with  a  poor  horse   harnessed  to  a  primitive 
looking  Australian  ^Mog-cart,"  who  was  in  the  act  of 
starting  to  t  he  terminus  of  cmr  tram-line.  Having  eat- 
isfb^d  ourselves  with  the  place  and  emptied  Lur  lunch 
basket,  we  asked  the  mrn  if  he  would  give  usa  ''lift" 
back  to  the  tram.     We   wante<l   the  novelty  of  such 
a  ride.     "Certainly,"  he  said,  "get  right   in."     We 
took  our  seats  on  a  loose  board  extending  across  the 


] 


\ 


IN   AUSTRALIA 


(55 


carl ;  llio  driver  sat  on  tlie  left  sliaff,  close  up  to  tlio 
^'itlui^'s''  tail,  and  we  started.    Our  conseiences  werc^ 
not  alto«,'ellier  clear.   Turning'  the;  top  of  a  long   hill 
t lie  fun  commenced.     The  old   jior.si*   'Mjoltt^d,"  and 
for  three    hundred    yards    his   furious     movements 
alternated  het\V(»en  i)lun,i,nng  f(.r\vard  and  sending  his 
lieels  Hying  into   th(wiir.      Seconds  lengthiuied    into 
liours  and   wo   wondered   wlial     the  end  would   he. 
iMiially  he  came   to   a    |)Iacf!    I)y   the   roadside   from 
wliich  dirt  had  hccn  taken  for  l)riek-makin<r,  leaving 
.'I  perpcndicMilar  embankment   twenty  feet  hii;Ii,with 
a  hirge  basin  of  very   uneven    bottom    filled    with  a 
mixture  of  water  and  red   chiy  to  al>out  the  consist- 
•iicy    of  thick  SOU]).      Into  tiiis  the   excited   animal 
plunged,  ramming  his  head  against  the  wall  of  earth 
and  sending  us  sprawling,  head   tlrsl,    into  the  pud- 
dle.    We  got  a  ''lift"  sure  enough.   The  (irst  thing  I 
saw  after  scratching  the  thin  mud   from  my  mouth, 
ears  and  eyes,  was  my  wif(>   lying  under   tli<'  horse's 
belly  with  his   feet  still   Hying  over  her   body.      I 
dragged  her  out,  and  then   we  compjired   notes.     It 
was  found  that  I  had  one  rib   broken,  the   wife   had 
s  iveral  bruises  and  tlu;  crown  of  her  sailor  h;it  kicked 
out,  and  both  of  us   wen?   consichu-ably   shaken   u]). 
Ibit  our  black  clothesl     We  retired  to  a  fnrm  In.use 
near  by  and  scraiH'd    and  dried    and    brushed    them, 
but  the  red  clay  defied  all  elVort  to  get  rid  of  it.    We 
discharged  (uir  driver  and  outfit,  find  as  a    matter  of 
good  policy  on  the  part  of  a  preacher  and    his  wife, 
we  went  quietly  into  the  city  in  the   ni^ht    time.     I 
was  thankful   to  reach  home  with  all  of  my  ril)s,  if 


1 


m 


OUR  TOUR  AROUND   THE    WORLD 


(H.e  of  them  wuh  hrnkm.  The  wife  was  satisfied  to 
lose  the  crown  of  her  hat  and  bo  saved  further  Joss 
from  the  niiarp  iioof  by  her  hair,  whicli  had  been 
rolled  on  top  of  Jier  head  according  to  the  prevailing 
fashion.  It  will  be  seen  that  "globe  trotters*'  have 
their  iindignih'ed  downs  as  well  as  iips. 

It  will  iiave  been  noticnd   by  the  reader  ere  this 
that  native  names  of  things  in   Australia  and  New 
Zealand  have    boen  very  largely  retained ;  and   with 
the  pnmunciation    of  these  names  the  stranger  will 
mvesomo  difliculty.     They  are  applied   to   ships, 
houses,  mountains,   rivers,  bays,    etc.     We  thought 
those  in    New  Zealand  bad  enough,  some  of  which 
when  properly  pronounced,  am  i„„,iea]  and   full  of 
meaning      ]iut  we  have  met  a  few  in  Australia  that 
cap   he  climax      Take  as  a  sample  this  name  of  a 
fc>yduey  bay  and  suburb-Woolloomooloo. 


7* 


LETTER  IX. 


A   SHORT   SKETCH     OF   AUSTKAMA. 

Australia  ia  too  large  and  intore.stii)(r  to  ho  dc- 
scribed  in  a  brief  letter:  therefore,' I  nuik(  "no  at (enipt, 
to  adequately  describe  it.  It  is  in  many  r.-s|),,ct.s  a 
peculiar  and  wonderful  country.  It  was  tlie  last 
continent  discovered  by  the  European.  Historically 
it  is,  therefore,  a  new  continent ;  f,'eoh>t,Mcallv  it  is 
the  oldest  country  in  the  world.  Many  animals  and 
plants  that  nourished  on  other  continents  ji^es  ago 
are  still  preserved  in  Australia.  Some  of  these  which 
long  since  have  become  .extinct  in  Europe  and  Anier- 
ica  reach  far  back  into  geological  time. 

Austnilia  has  been  a  sort  of  combined  Zoological 
and  IJotanical  gardcMi  in  which  has  be.-n  preserved 
the  animals  and  i)lants  of  former  ages  as  living  ex- 
anii)les  of  what  other  i)arts  of  the  world  have  pro- 
duced.  Hence,  Australia  has  many  strange  i)lants 
and  curious  aninuils.  It  nniy  be  called  the  land  of 
the  kangaroo  and  the  emu.  \\\\\  most  of  the  native 
mammals  of  Australia  are  marsupials,  and  the  kan- 
garoo is  the  largest  and  most  remarkable  of  the 
marsupial  class.  Many  species  of  kangarons  an-  rej)- 
resented  in  Australia.  The  largest  size,which  mainly 
iuhabits   the   interior,    is   reddish;  and  among  the 

07 


68 


OUH   TOUR   AKOr.vn    TffE  WORLD 


Hinnllor  kinds    ,nny  l.o  uumiunu.l   tin-  wallnLius  and 
kungarocratH.     TJ.oiv  is  also  a   p..,.,,!.:,,-  kind   that 
Jives  n.  (1)0   tn.os,  <mll..d   th-.   tr.v-kai.^.in.,,,    whiH, 
was  disonv.-n  ,1    l.v  luiropnans  only  a   f.nv  voar.  a,ir<, 
KanKaruns  liav  Im-cou,..  so  ( n.ul.lcsnnic  in  sonic  ,mrts 

oi  Australia  that  tlH.  (Jov.rnm.M.t  on.Mvd  a  j.rcMnin.n 
<'n..u-h  animal  kilh-d,  and  n.  fiv.  y.ars,  hehvuen 
J.SN)an,l  l,s.So,  no  Jess  than  six  millions  of  th.-m 
were  slain. 

Tl„.  h>r«.MMm,,  whirl,  l„.|,„„'s  ,„  ,l„.os(nd,  f,,,,,. 

Jly,  issnl    ,„„m.ro,H,„ll |>.'nou,M,(n-„rAuHtra- 

;•■',    "    '';•   'l";>-"^""„.,    ,lv,  ,|„,v  ,^,,.   r,.„„u-kaMv 

"'"■'• '■'  •■"i.laiv  s.MMMii s  l,nnl,Ml  hv  tl,,.  ,v|,i(',. 

""""■"    li-r.-lNi.-l;  will,    ,,,„    ,,„,,,      .|.|„:,  „,.„  ,,|^,, 

V"0-^li-nu,  „,„|,  wl„.„l„.,„,   ,.|..<,.|v   |„„s„,.,|   l,„vo 

.'■'"';"",""'"" '•■"'"=' '■""""•"'itvwitl,„„„vi. 

-•--l<-k_,   ,,,i,,i,-, ,,,,.,.  i,  ,,,,,., ,,,,i,^.  ,,,.,,, 

.•^'^'"•;-    ■■'    'I-    ''i'Ms   i„    A„s,,„lia..„v    l„.i,|i,„t,,, 
l'l""l«l.   I'll-  .•,,■..„.,(   „„|,.,|,,,  SW....1  s„„i.st,.,.„        l',.,.. 

'■;"■' '"■'■."'"'"■'■""■^■' «>!,..,.,. :,n.i„c.h„l,.,|  ,1,0 

"U-.u^,.   An,-k  ,„,.)    wl,i„.   c.,„.|<a,„„s.      TIimv   is  a  n- 

!"'"■'""'"'"■''•'■'""" i"A".l,-,-,li,.,,,,,||,,|||„.|,.      I,. 

.".'"■""■'^r'     '"^'" «'''>•""■  "«li-'  a |,„„si„«,, 

''.;'''''.'';■ '.■'■""' 0-.    It  has  a  I.,,,,-   sl,„v,.|-lik,.  ,|c, 

""'"'"'• ••'k-iNiv,.i,l„,-,l,..s„al<,.sa„.lli,: 

""l^Hi  „|,i,.|,  i,  ,„i,.|ly  r Is    T„  I,,.,,,., „,,,„.,!„■,.,. 

"t   thysc   l„,.,|s   ,„.„,|„,,    i,,,,   I,, .,       .^^    ji ^_    _ 

n^2:''«;vH>Ml,,.i,-,iu,.,.|,,,|,,,!|,,,M,a!l,all,nM"t 

''''•"•l»''- <''■'"•■"  i,,ll,H,,.i,l,,,,r   „„.„llal,l,.|,i. 

lauty.   I  have  .»«,  a  f.w  la„.l,i„.  jaei<a.«e»  in   otl.«r 


I 


A  SHOUT  8KKTCH  OK  AUSTRALIA 


G9 


countries,  l)ut  they  uro   without  wings  uiid  live  iu 
Jinus(!S. 

Tlic  forcstH  of  Austmliji,  like  New  Zealand,  are 
everj^n-een.  In  nijiiiy  rcjsiM'cts  1  ho  phmts  and  largo 
trees  lU'i^  very  eurioiis  and  inton'st ing.  Some  trees, 
for  <'xain|)l(',  linvctlieir  leaves  plae.'d  vertically,  and 
hence  do  not  give  nnieh  sliad.-.  Some  cherries  have 
the  seed  on  the  outside  of  ijie  berry.  The  gujn,  or 
eui'alyptus,  is  a  proinineiit  tree  everywhere  in  the 
country,  and  it  varies  in  stature  from  dwarf  hushes 
to  171  f(M-t  in  height.  They  an;  straight,  and  send 
out  most  of  their  i)ran<,'hes  near  the  toj).  According 
to  th(!  lat((st  statements  of  botanists^  the  lunnfjer  of 
known  species  of  Ijowering  plants  and  ferns  in  Aus- 
tralia is  aliout  S,9()'.).  IJut  i\w  most  rem.Mrl<}il.ie  t  liing 
is  that  7,700  <tf  these  are  i)eculiar  to  Australia. 

Australia  is  about  the  size  of  the  United  Stat(\s, 
having  an  area  of  about  :J, 000,000  square  miles,  witii 
iin  estimated  population  of  about  55, 100,000.  Its 
surface  is  a  low  plateau.  It  has  been  couipared  to 
a  gigantic  i)late  with  its  Hat  interior  and  gradually 
elevated  edges.  Miuih  of  the'  interior  is  desert.  It 
has  no  very  pretentious  mountain  ranges  or  rivers. 
The  chief  mountain  chain  is  the  Australian  Alps, 
the  loftiest  penks  of  which  nreonly  a  little  over  7,000 
feet  liigh.  Mount  Townseiid,  the  highest  summit  in 
Australi.M,  is  only  7,or)U  feet  high.  There  are  no  ac- 
tive volcanoes  in  tin*  country,  though  tlier(»  are  sev- 
eral extinct  ones.  The  .Murray  is  the  largest  river 
on  the  continent,  and  the  lower  i)art  of  it  is  naviga- 
ble only  during  the  rainy  season. 


70 


OUR   TOUR   AROUND   THE    WORLD 


In  Uie  iiitoriortlie  climate  is  hot  ami  dry;  and 
around  thu  soiit hern  and  much  ol'  the  eastern  and 
wesiern  coasts  it  is  temi)erat(s  pleasant  and  healthy. 
in  course  the  seasons  in  Australia  are  reversed,  and 
Christmas  comes  in  thr  middle  o(  the  summer.'  The 
nties,towns  and  tillaMe  hinds  are  distrihuted  aroujid 
the  sea-hoard,  wh(U-e  they  ^v.\  the  I.enefit  of  tlie  best 
climate  and  the  greatr.'st  rain-fall. 

The  continent  of  Australia  comprises  fiv(.    British 
Colonies,    namely,    (^m-ensland,  Now   Soulh    Wales 
\ic((,rm,   8outh   Australia  and   West.M-n  Australia' 
and  their  respective  capitals,  in  the  order  named,  arj 
Hnshane,  Sydm.y,  Mrlhourne,   Adelaide  and   Perth 
these  cities  are  uuirvelsof  Leant V  and    ener-v    and' 
c<".tresol  business  which  would  prov..  an   ni^vrvtxhle 
■surprise  tn    many   Americans.     Cleaner  and    hotter 
governed  cities  J  have  never  seen.      Melhourne  is  the 
"'•«'-t    ntyiuth.  Southern   Hemisphere,  having  a 
J'"'"'^"  "'I'  "'  ^^''^'"<  -1<'<M)()().      .Sydnev    follows    with 
II  l>.'|.untnuio|- about  ;]o.,,0(,(X     Adelaide,  Hrisbane 

Austmli,.  |,a«  nmcl,  lin«;,a.st„r.,)an,l,  an.l  .nillions 
"fsh....|.Hn,leat,lefee,l,„Hl„.„ativ,.«r,.«s.  1.,.,.,,^ 
<l"^H„itH..„lwoola«M.x|„„-.e,l«„„u„llv.  Wheal  is 
..M..ns,v,.|y  Kivnv,,.   Ora.,K,«,  |e,„„„„  a,„l  ^„,.„,,  „,„.,. 

-^'  >"  N;.'w  .S„utl,  \Val,..s.  .S,„a,-.ca,„,  itna'nas  a'.'l 
l'">"»l'l'l«s  arc  oultivate.1  in  (Ju..,.,slan.l.  Rid,  .r„|.l 
.nm,.sar,.w„Hco,li„all,l,„.„l„„i..s.   lulmJau,,^. 

Now  ,lon-t  all  s,„,,  to  AmrnU.  «t  once,    iiuo'ul 
guts  are  rather  scarce  uowadays. 


A  SHORT  SKETCH  OF  AUSTRALIA 


71 


The  black  native  inhabitants  of  Australia,  ^oner- 
ally  called  "blacks,"  belong  to  the  lowest  order  of 
the  human  race,  and  yet  even  the  most  dc^graded 
cannibal  tribes  have  some  religious  ideas.  Tiiere  is 
no  doubt  that  leading  scholars  are  correct  in  assert- 
ing the  universality  of  religion,  and  that  the  Dar- 
winian school  is  wrong  in  claiming  that  the;  human 
race  in  all  its  branches  has  luien  developf^d  from  the 
lower  animals.  Their  gnnius  and  skill  in  making  and 
throwing  the  famous  boomcnmg  have  gained  for 
these  "blacks"  a  world-wide  notorifty.  We  brought 
home  with  us  a  fin*!  specimen  of  the  boomerang. 

The  Australian  natives  arc  fast  disappearing  before 
the  advancing  tide  of  civilization,  or  rather  before 
the  shot-guns  and  nivolvers  of  the  "squatters." 
From  probably  2W,()()()  sixty  years  ago,  they  hav(» 
been  gradually  reduced  to  some  ()(),(M)C).  It  will  soon 
be  a  repetition  of  the  old  fable  of  the  lamb  inside 
the  wolf. 


i 


m:tti;i;  x. 

oru    HKTUHN    TO    SKW   ZK.U.ANIJ. 

T.v  ls;«)  „,.  ,„,»n,..,l  «„  x,.„.  z„„|„,„i.     •p,„.^     I 

^"' "'-'■•","'•  '■'"»'•  "■"•"!  ii,iiin,.„i,,  ,„„„;,,, 

'■•    '"''''-'■'■^"  '"■'■""■  "II  l-u-Ks  of  , I,.,  won.    «, 

-"■••."ii.vn-..Mi:n.i,„„i.    u-,.|,„,U| ,,„„„'•; 

""""'■'■;"'■- •- ■'!■  i..sin„.tiv,.  i,„ok„  fro,    ; 

""•"""■r""''^-  " •i-"l".in,.lil,ran-woi:      ,. 

4o'''I:;;  .tl",';;'';, •''■•■■".•'•  "I'-'-'i-i pi..  ti,ov 

^vo^d.   ,  ■V''T''''''''''':,  '■'■  "'''''^    "'■■■'''    i" 

'tiii.r  ii,  ti,.,ir  h   ,  '  ''  <''''"i"«l  l)u))iic 


81M. 


72 


OUR  RETURN  TO  NEW  ZEALAND 


78 


But  what  is  a  Colonial  toa  nieotin^'?  This  question 
may  \m  of   interest  to  some  of  my  AuKJiicaii  reailers 
who  have  not  had  the  privih^ge  of  visilin^r  Kn^rijuKl 
and  her  Colonies,  seeing  that  the  Americans "jiave 
not  had  inueh  experieneewith  tea  meetings.  The  first 
and  only  tea  meeting  in  whieh  the  American  i)eoi)le 
haviM'elt  much  interest  was   held  in   Jioston    harhor 
in  1775i,when  the  Knglishtiui  was  thrown  overhoard. 
But  I  can  assure  my  readers   that  the  Australian 
tea  meetings  dillcr  somewhat  from    a  gathering  wo 
attended    sevc-ral    years  ago   in  a    leading    Jiaptist 
church  in  the  state  of  Knnsas,  called  a  "J'ink  Tea  " 
Some  of  us   who   received   complimentary  tickets 
were  full  of  wonder  and  anxiety  as  to  the  meaning  of 
"Pink  Tea/'     But  our  curiosity   was  soon   satisfied 
when  we  entered  the  larg..  church  and  found  that  the 
letter  T,in  various  sizes  and  shapes, had  been  cut  out 
of  pink  paper  and  stuck  on  almost  every  available 
object  in  the  rooui,  from  the  cup  containing  the  tea 
(or  colfee)  up  to  the  cc.-ntre   of  the   pastor's   back, 
while  the  rest  of  the  proceedings  consisted  in  an  or- 
dinary church  festival.     We  began  to   breathe  more 
freely,  and  soon  settled  down  to  business. 

On  attending  a  Colonial  tea, you  deposit  your  tick- 
et with  the  collector  at  the  door.  When  you  enter 
the  hall  the  Tirst  things  that  attract  your  attention 
an*  the  long  tallies  extending  the  entire  length  of  the 
liJill,  with  broad  pronu.'nade  passages  between  them 
These  tables  are  dressed  in  clean,  white  liiien,and  or- 
namented with  the  flowers,  ferns  and  various  plants 
of  the  season.     The  chairs  are  all  placed  with  their 


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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

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74 


OUR  TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD 


) 


backs  to  the  tables,  and  as  the  people  enter  the  hall 
they  are  expected  to  select  their  own  seats,  except 
honored  guests  who  are  given  seats  at  the  head  of  the 
table  or  at  a  special  table.  This  done,  you  can  either 
be  seated  and  spend  the  time  in  social  conversation, 
or  exercise  yourself  on  the  promenade,  When  tea 
is  announced  each  arises,  turns  his  chair,  and  takes 
a  seat  at  the  table  in  the  proper  attitude  for  eating. 
Some  one  from  the  platform  repeats  these  words: 
"Bo  present  at  our  table,  Lord, 

Be  here  and  eviy  where  adored  ; 

These  mercies  bless  and  ^rant  that  we 

May  feast  in  Paradise  with  tliee." 

Then,  as  an  expression   of  thanks,  all   stand  and 
heartily  sing  them. 

Now  begins  the  practical  part.  You  begin  with  a 
cup  of  tlie  best  tea  procuraljle,  prepared  to  your 
taste,  and  a  good  healthy  Colonial  sandwich.  The 
tables  are  also  bounteously  supplied  with  the  princi- 
pal varieties  that  the  confectioner's  art  can  produce. 
There  are  no  plates,  except  those  containing  the 
food,  and  fingers  are  the  only  forks.  Gentlemen 
bring  the  tea-pots  to  the  tables,  and  ladies  pour  the 
tea.  You  retire  at  your  leisure.  The  Englishman 
takes  his  time  for  eating,  and  likes  to  linger  long  at 
the  table  after  closing  his  meal.  He  puts  much  of 
the  social  feature  into  his  meals.  He  does  not  be- 
lieve in  imitating  the  pig  that  gulps  down  its  food 
with  a  few  grunts  and  retires  at  once  from  the  trough 
to  wallowing  in  the  mire.  The  English  custom  is 
commendable.     Of  course  these  teas  vary  somewhat 


•  r' 


OUR  RETURN  TO  NEW  ZEALAND         75 

to  suit  the  occasion,  but  the  substance  is  usually  the 
same.  Tea  being  over,  the  tables  removed  and  the 
large  hall  seated  with  chairs,  a  choice  program, 
consisting  of  songs,  recitations,  readings,  speeches, 
etc.,  is  gone  through  with,  the  meeting  being  brought 
to  a  satisfactory  close  about  ten  o'clock.  Such  is  a 
typical  Colonial  tea  and  public  meeting,  many  of 
which  we  have  greatly  enjoyed. 

We  left  on  the  *S^.  S.  Jubilee  on  Thursday  noon, 
March  13,  1890,  friends  waving  us  an  affectionate 
good-bye  from  the  wharf.  We  sailed  right  round 
the  north  end  of  New  Zealand  and  down  the  eastern 
coast,  calling  at  Auckland,  Napier,  Wellington  and 
Christchurch.  We  were  thirteen  days  in  reaching 
Dunedin,  and  the  voyage  was  uneventful.  It  was 
my  privilege  to  preach  to  the  passengers  on  the 
Lord's  Day,  and  we  had  concerts  on  two  evenings, 
which  helped  us  to  pass  the  time  pleasantly.  The 
weather  was  delightful  and  the  sea  comparatively 
smooth. 

Early  on  the  first  morning  after  leaving  Auckland 
we  looked  toward  the  coast,  on  our  right,  and  saw  a 
conical  island  standing  out  in  the  Bay  of  Plenty, 
called  White  Island.  The  island  is  formed  by  a  vol- 
canic mountain  rising  out  of  deep  water  to  the  height 
of  several  hundred  feet.  A  heavy  cloud  of  smoke  was 
hanging  above  the  top  of  the  mountain.  There  are 
also  on  the  island  boiling  springs  and  geysers  of  acid 
waters,  the  vapors  of  which  form  large  deposits  of 
pure  sulphur.  How  wonderful  are  the  works  of 
God  I 


■^ 


n 


76  OUR  TOUR  AROUND    THE    WORLD 

Early  on  the  morning  of  ]\rarch  26,  we  entered  the 
Heads  and  slowly  steamed  up  the  harbor  to  our  land- 
ing place  at  Dunedin.     From   Port  Glial  mors,    the 
seaport  of  Dunedin,  up  to  the  city  is  a  distance  of 
seven  miles,  and  the  two  places  are  connected  by  a 
railway  extending  along  the  edge  of  the  harbor.     A 
chain  of  hills  on  both  sides  of  the  harbor  also  extends 
almost  the  entire  distance,   the  sides  of   which  are 
covered  with  grass,  small  cultivated  fields  and  scrub. 
Dunedin,  as  its  name  indicates,  is  a  city  built  on 
the  hills.   Most  of  the  business  part  of  it  is  situated 
immediately  around  the  head  of  the  harbor,  and  then 
the  resident  part  rises  terrace  above   terrace  till  the 
top  of  the  tall  hills  is  reached,  and   even   over  into 
the  valleys  beyond.     I  have  before  me  as   I   write  a 
book  of  800  pages  entitled   "Picturesque  Dunedin," 
and  I  am  sure   this  is  an  appropriate  name  for  the 
cit3^    It  contains  some  magnificent  business  houses, 
hotels  and  churches      In  one  part  of  the  cable-tram' 
line  that  mounts  these  hills  there  is,  it  is  claimed, 
the  steepest  cable  grade  in  the  world.     As  the   car 
starts  down  it  you   seem  to  be  plunging  over  a  high 
cliff,  and  timid  ladies,  unaccustomed  to  it,  give  a 
shriek  and  hold  on  for  dear  life.  In  this  picturesque 
city  we  made  our  home  for  four  years. 

Let  the  reader  turn  back  to  the  beginning  of  this 
book  and  take  a  look  at  the  writer's  picture,  and  see 
how  much  it  resembles  a  Roman  Catholic  priest 
Nevertheless, he  was  repeatedly  mistaken  in  Dunedin 
for  a  priest.  One  day  the  supposed  "father"  was 
waiting  for  a  tram  near  where  the  Bishop  was  lying 


^ 


' 


OUR  RETURN  TO  NEW  ZEALAND         77 

ill  in  his  home.  A  strange  gentleman  approached 
and  said:  "How  is  the  Bishop  to-day?"  I  replied, 
"I  do  not  know;  I  have  seen  no  notice  of  his  condi- 
ti;)n  in  the  papers,"  "Have  you  been  up  to  see 
him?"  "Ihavenot."  "Are you  a  Catholic  priest?" 
"I  am  not."  "Oh,  I  thought  you  were,  and  of  course 
would  know  all  about  the  Bishop's  health. "  Before 
we  separated  another  strange  gentleman  approached, 
and  the  same  dialogue  followed.  The  first  gentle- 
man laughed  and  said,  "I  thought  he  was  a  priest." 
The  gentlemen  apologized,  and  we  parted  good 
friends.  The  Bishop  has  since  died,  but  the  "father" 
has  survived  the  shock. 


■*** 


l1 


LETTER  XL 

LEAVING   NEW   ZEALAND. 

Our    departure  from  New  Zealand  in  1894  was 
mingled  with  feelings  of  sadness  and  joy.    We  were 
sorry  to  have  to  be  called  on  to  say  good-bye  to  so 
many  warm-hearted  Christian    workers  and  friends 
and  we  were  glad,  on  the  other  hand,  that  the  time 
had  come  to  continue  our  journey  and  feast  our  eves 
on  the  interesting  objects  of  the  old   world,  which 
we  had  so  long  desired  to  see.     But  having  made  up 
our  minds  to  go,  a  number  of  farewell  meetings  fol- 
lowed this  decision ;  and  in  describing  these  meetings 
I  think  I  can   not  do  better  than  give  brief  extracts 
from  the  lengthy  reports  of   them  that  were  printed 
in  the  daily  papers.     The   Evening  Star  of  May  3 

FAKEWELL  TO  MR.    J,    p.    TLOYD. 

I  ^'"°"tf"'^/5«^^"PP''■•'  to  bid  farewell  to  Mr 
1 1 J  ■     .7''  "'"^  *<*  welcome  Mr.  R.  C   Gilmour   vjL 

Sded  "rnftlL?"  '"*,  "''"'■     Mr.  RlXidZ 
ThT^h  ■      ^  '^"'  *"^  "  '«"'S<*  attendance. 
Ihe  chairman  opened  the  meeting  with  a  few  nnn, 

phmentary  remarks,  after  which   mT  J    McTnto?h 

Zn    ttV-  *;''  '"t^'  °"  "^^''^'f  «'  the  congrega- 
t.on-the  Disciples  of  (Jhrist-to  say  good-bfe  to 

TO  ^ 


9 


^ 


-« 

4 


LEAVING  NEW   ZEALAND  79 

their  dear  Brother  Floyd,  who  was  going  to  take  his 
departure  for  Palestine,  the  Holy  Land,  and  other 
interesting  places.  That  the  Lord  might  bless  him 
and  bring  him,  his  wife  and  son  to  their  destination 
in  safety  and  in  health,  was  the  prayer  of  the  congre- 
gation. The  speaker  then  presented  Mr.  Floyd  with 
a  book  entitled  "Ferns  of  New  Zealand,"  bearing 
the  following  inscription:  "Presented  to  Mr.  J.  F. 
Floyd,  on  the  eve  of  his  departure  from  New  Zealand, 
by  the  members  of  his  Bible  class  in  Dunedin,  2nd 
of  May,  1894."     (Applause.) 

The  choir  then  sang  "God  be  with  you  till  we  meet 
again." 

Mr.  Flc  d,  who  was  received  with  loud  cheering, 
stated  that  this  was  one  of  the  occasions  on  which 
he  found  great  difficulty  in  expressing  his  feelings 
and  thanks.  He  asked  those  present  to  excuse  him 
if  they  found  that  his  address  was  hardly  up  to  the 
mark. 

[The  address  is  here  omitted,  and  the  report  closes 
as  follows:] 

He  had  been  asked  another  question,  and  that  was 
whether  he  intended  to  return  to  Dunedin.  He  did 
not  know.  He  might  return  some  day,  but  it  de- 
pended very  much  upon  circumstances.  He  some- 
times felt  that  his  work  was  not  quite  finished  in 
Dunedin,  Under  the  circumstances  it  was  utterly 
impossible  for  him  to  say  all  the  good  things  he 
would  have  liked  to  say,  but  he  hoped  they  would 
take  the  will  for  the  deed,  and  continue  to  think  of 
him  as  he  would  continue  to  think  of  them  in  the 
future.     (Loud  applause.) 

After  the  audience  had  been  liberally  supplied  with 
refreshments,  Mr.  W.  C.  M'Nee  extended  a  welcome 
to  Mr.  R.  C.  Gilmour,  who  afterwards  briefly  re- 
plied. 


OUR  TOUR   AROUND  THE  WORLD 

An  address  was  also  given  dnrincr  +r.^ 

solo;  and  the  chJ.X'a'>!^..?K  ^^fe^tr"" 
Later  on  another  meeting  was  held    and  1   ti, 
morning  of  May  1.  the  nJly  rL^  Ide  the  fo,' 
Jowingreport  of  it:  °^ 

PRESENTATION    TO   MR.    J.  F.    flqYD 

ments  w^re  provided ''by''   rinl^^r'^fLf'''"^':,- 
advantage  was   falcon  n/^i      ^^^'"^'.^^i^  ot  Jadies,  and 

Floyd  «lth7Lntoml  IhSted *„d ?''''''"  -^'- 
of  sovereigns   anrl  «n  1,7  ^^^"^^^ated  address,  i^urse 

appreeiaUr'o^tr'Zra:     ^^'  xHf  1 
of  other  gifts      T he  n?p3i  '  '""'^^  ^  liumber 

nabie  giftTpJe  en  d  oZ' Vartn'er"  ^  T.'  ""'  T'"" 
himself.     Several  snr.!         Partner  in  life  and  to 

evening  and  a  n  eaS  J"''  ""^^"^'"^  ^"^"^g  ^^^ 
close  by^ledoxo^grC^^^  ^"'  brought  to  a 
the  illuminated  address  wh?.h  '"'''^  ''  ^  ^«P3^  «f 
and  Mrs.  Floyd :  ^  "^^^  presented  to  Mr. 

"/)mr   Brother  and   Sister'— W9    a   f«x,,    ^f 
friends  and  avmnathi7Pra   ^1  •      2       .         ^^  y^^^ 
practical  token  ofthp I ?'       •'''®  *^  ^''^^  ^^^  ^^"'e 
by  us.     DutTZ  fUfl  ''*'"'"  '"  ^^^^«^^  yo"  are  held 

this  city  in  the  fnter^^^^^  ^""^  ^^^^^^^  i" 

J'        tne  interests  of  the  gospel  of  Christ, 


I 


LEAVING  NEW  ZEALAND 


81 


your  manner  and  conduct  have  beon  such  as  to  com- 
mend themselves  to  our  syin])athies,  and  we  regret 
that  ycni  have  at  Ja^^t  seen  fit  to  sever  that  j)ersonal 
intercourse  and  lellowship  that  have  hound  us  to- 
gether in  honds  of  Ciiristian  love.  We  pray  (tod  that 
wheresoever  you  may  I)e  called  upon  in  His  prnvidencc! 
to  labor  you  may  be  cheered  in  yoiii'  work  by  the 
same  counsel  and  inlluence  uhieh  we  have  been 
pleased  to  bestow  upon  you  Kindly  a('C('[)t  the  ac- 
companying gifts,  which  express  inade(iuately  the 
esteem  and  respect  in  which  you  arc  h(ld  by  us. 
Signed— Jane  Woollett, Margaret  Suth(>rland, Rebecca 
Anderson,  Alice  lleid,  Calln'rine  Finhiyson  (Ladies' 
Committee),  on  behnlf  of  a  long  list  of  donors,  of 
members  of  the  City  Hal  I  Church,  and  friends,  among 
whom  are  leading  pul)ljc  men.  iJunedni,  ^layii, 
1894." 

One  of  the  friends  and  liberal  donors  was  the 
mayor  of  the  city.  The  address,  which  was  enclosed 
in  a  handsome  frame,  will  always  find  a  consi)icuous 
place  on  the  wall  of  our  parlor  or  study.  We  pur- 
chased our  through  tickets  from  Thomas  Cook  & 
Son,  of  whom  we  will  have  more  to  say  from  time  to 
time  during  the  course  of  our  journey.  Most  of  our 
heavy  baggage,  including  my  library,  I  found  it  less 
trouble  and  expense  to  send  as  freight  direct  to  Lon- 
don. Finally,  at  8  o'clock  on  the  afternoon  of  Fri- 
day, May  LS,  a  large  number  of  meml)ers  of  the 
church  and  friends  assembled  en  the  wharf  and  on 
the  deck  and  in  the  saloon  of  our  ship,  *S'.  S.  Tara- 
loera,  to  say  good-})ye  and  to  wish  us  a  pleasant  and 
safe  voyage.  Some  tears  were  shed  and  many  pleas- 
ant and  helpful  words  were  spoken,  and  as  we  quietly 
sailed  down  the  harbor  a  whole  forest  of  handkerchiefs 


M  . 


H 


82 


OUR  TOUR  AROUND   THE   WORLD 


were  vigoroiisJy  waving  iiiiti]  first  the  wharf  and 
then  the  city  itself  gradually  vanished  from  our 
sight.     Thus  we  took  our  leave  of  New  Zealand. 


.1   . -;: 


LETTER  XII. 

FROM  DUNEDIN  TO  MELBOURNE. 

That  portion  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Ocean  sep- 
arating New  Zealand  from  Australia,  and  over  whicli 
it  requires  seven  days  for  a  first-class  inter-oolonial 
steamship  to  sail,  was  known  to  the  civilized  world 
and  navigated  by  Europeans  a  long  time  before  it 
had  any  specific  name.  But  a  few  years  ago  the 
Geographical  Society  of  Australasia  met  in  solemn 
conference  and  gave  this  large  body  of  water  the 
name  of  the  Tasman  Sea.  It  is  well  to  distinguisli 
it  by  name  from  the  rest  of  the  world's  largest  ocean, 
for  it  is  evident  that  this  particular  part  is  anything 
but  pacific  in  reality.  It  believes  in  sacrifice  rather 
than  mercy;  its  peculiar  cross-currents  and  head- 
winds giving  to  the  ship  almost  every  motion  known 
to  the  old  sea  captain.  We  were  aware  of  the  bad 
behavior  of  this  sea, and  hence  were  prepared  for  any 
reception  it  might  give  us.  Our  entrance  to  the  sea 
from  the  Dunedin  harbor  was  blessed  with  beautiful 
sunshine  and  a  gentle  breeze,  but  the  rolling  of  the 
good  ship,  S.  S.  Tarawera,  soon  sent  us  I)elow  for 
the  night.  At  7:30  next  morning  we  anchored  in 
the  Bluff  Harbor  at  Cambelltown,  which  is  situated 
at  the  southern  end  of  the  South  Island,  and  is  the 
first  and  last  port  of  call  for  steamers  running  between 

83 


4 


84 


OUR  TOUK  AROUND   TPIE    WORLD 


1 1 


,ii! 


Melbourne  tincl  New  Zeuliuul.  It  in  a  bleak  [)lace  of 
little  importance,  except  as  a  shipping  point  for  the 
southern  part  of  th(!  LsJand.  Here  our  best  deck 
chair  decided  to  discontinue  its  tour  around  the 
world.  It  took  legs  and  walked  ashore  without  our 
knowledge  or  consent.     It  did  not  return. 

We  sailed  from  the  lUulf  on  Satunhiy  evening, 
the  same  day  of  our  arrival,  and  Sunday,  Monday 
and  Tuesday  our  ship  was  rolling,  plunging  and  ca- 
pering like  a  playful  animal.  Now  we  were  lifted  to 
the  top  of  a  mountain  wave,  and  then  we  sank  down 
into  the  valley  below;  one  minute  the  prow  of  the 
boat  was  pointing  heavenward,  and  the  next  the  stern 
was  lifted  out  of  the  water,  while  the  quick  revolu- 
tions of  the  screw  startled  the  timid  passengers  and 
set  the  ship  to  quivering  in  every  part.  Sunday  passed 
without  any  religious  service.  We  had  taken  on 
board  at  the  Bluff  a  company  of  fine  singers  who 
had  been  touring  New  Zealand,  but  we  had  no  song. 
The  berths  were  well  patronized;  the  stewards  and 
stewardess  Avere  kept  unusually  busy,  and  sighs, 
moans  and  complaints  constituted  the  order  of  the 
day.  The  liveliest  passenger  we  had  on  board  was 
a  man  who  had  become  delirious  through  strong 
drink,  and  required  two  stewards  to  hold  him  in  his 
bed  most  of  the  time.  He  was  a  sad  wreck  in  Colo- 
nial high  life. 

The  announcement  early  on  Wednesday  morning 
that  we  had  entered  the  Heads  and  were  approach- 
ing the  city  of  Hobart  was  a  welcome  one.  We  went 
on  deck,  and  as  we  steamed  slowly  towards  the  wharf 


f 


FROM  DUNEDIN  TO  MELBOURNE 


85 


we  had  a  fine  view  of  the  city,  built  on  the  banks  of 
the    river  Derwont,    and   extending    in    horse-shoe 
shape  around  the  head   of  the  counnodious   liarbor, 
and  snow-ca])i)ed  Mount  Wellington,  lifting  his  head 
up  4,11(5  feet  toward  the  zenith,  forming  the  pictur- 
esque background.     Hobart  is  the  capital   of  Tas- 
mania, and  is  built  on  uneven  ground,  some  of  which 
is  considerably   elevated.     It  has  some  magnificent 
public  buildings  and  an  excellent  system   of  electric 
street  cars.    The    Government  House,  built  of  whito 
freestone,  the  House  of  Parliament,  witli  9,()U0  vol- 
umes of  Itooks,  the  Town  Hall  and  the  Museum  are 
tlie  principal  ones.     It  is  connected   with   some    of 
the  smaller  cities  of  the  Colony  by  rail,   and  is  regu- 
larly reached  })y  splendid  steamers  from  New  Zealand, 
Sydney  and  Melbourne.     Some  of  the  large   steam- 
ships from  England  also  touch  at  this  port.     In  con- 
sequence of  its  bracing  climate,  and  being  easy  of  ac- 
cess, Hobart  is  becoming  quite  a  summ(n'  resort.     It 
has  a  population  of  al)out  29,000. 

Mount  Wellin!,^'ton  is  not  a  cone-shaped  mountain 
as  I  had  thcjught,  but  is  a  long  ridge-like  mountain 
with  one  end  higher  than  the  other,  and  forming  a 
tableland  on  top.  It  is  so  near  the  bay  that  its  base 
extends  right  down  to  the  city  limits.  Heavy  clouds 
were  hanging  about  the  mountain,  and  now  and  then 
one  of  these  water-carriers  would  float  over  the  city 
and  drop  a  shower  of  rain.  This  mountain  is  almost 
exactly  the  antipodes  of  Mount  Ben  Nevis,  in  Scot- 
land, 4,400  feet  higli.  A  Meteorological  Observatory 
has  been  established  on  the  top  of  each  of  these 


86 


OUR   TOUR   AROUND   THE  WORLD 


It! 


mountains  under  the  superintendence  of  the  same 
scientific  gentleman.  Simultaneous  observations 
are  to  be  taken  from  both  mountains,  and  it  is  be- 
lieved that  the  facts  thus  obtained  from  both  sides 
of  the  world  will  furnish  more  accurate  forecasts  of 
the  state  of  the  weather  than  have  been  hitherto  at- 
tained. 

Tasmania  is  an  island  lying  between  the  southern 
end  of  New  Zealand  and  Australia,  and  is  separated 
from  the  hitter  by  Bass  Strait  It  comprises  a  little 
over  26,000  square  miles,  and  it  is,  therefore,  about 
half  the  size  of  the  state  of  Alabama.  Its  total  pop- 
ulation is  about  128,000,  and  it  is  a  British  Colony. 
By  Australians  and  New  Zealanders  it  is  vulgarly 
called  the  "tight  little  island."  The  black  native 
population  has  entirely  disappeared,  the  last  one  dy- 
ing in  1872.  It  is  said  to  be  a  fine  fruit  country, 
and  we  can  testify  to  the  good  quality  of  the  beau- 
tiful apples  we  saw  in  the  markets.  While  walking 
on  tlie  streets  we  met  friends  from  Sydney,  in  whose 
company  we  spent  a  few  pleasant  hours. 

Our  stay  in  Hobart  was  limited  to  eight  hours, 
i^efore  h^nving  the  wharf,  a  man  came  on  board  with 
wild-cat,  oi)()ssuni  and  other  Tasmanian  skins  for 
sale.  At  one  time  these  animals  were  very  numerous 
in  the  mountains  of  the  Colony,  and  beautiful  rugs 
are  mnnufactur^^d  out  of  skins  and  sold  at  high  prices. 
We  purchased  a  sample. 

The  remainder  of  the  voyage  between  Hobart  and 
Melbourne  was  devoid  of  special  interest.  We  reached 
the  latter  city  on  Friday,  May  25,  at  2:30  p.  m.,  and 


•> 


'nj7'My""-T7'"'r^!''' 


FROM  DUNEDIN  TO  MELBOURNE 


87 


were  met  at  the  wharf  by  friends  who  were  awaiting 
our  arrival,  and  who  took  us  in  charge  during  our 
short  visit  to  the  city. 


ihii 


LETTER   XIII. 

FROxAI    MELBOURNE    TO   ADELAIDE. 

"Marvelous  Melbourno"  is  lUKloiibtedly  a  won- 
derful city.  When  the  traveller  remembers  that  a 
little  more  than  fifty  years  ago  there  was  no  Mel- 
bourne, and  then  looks  on  the  present  city,  he  has 
good  reason  to  be  surprised  at  its  rapid  and  solid 
growth.  As  our  steamer  slowly  nu'ved  up  the  mouth 
of  the  muddy  Yarra  Yarra  River,  on  the  north  bank 
of  wliicli  the  city  is  situated,  we  were  not  very  favor- 
ably impressed  vvith  what  we  could  see  of  Melbourne. 
It  looked  too  flat  and  gloomy.  But  when  we  en- 
tered the  fine  business  part  of  the  city, our  unfavora- 
ble impression  gave  place  to  one  of  admiration.  Its 
parks  and  o-ard^ns  are  beautifully  laid  out,  and  its 
public  buildings  are  uiagnificently  executed.  The 
ppncipal  streets  run  at  riglit  angles  to  one  another, 
and  they  are  long,  broad,  smooth  and  clean. 

Melbourne  has  one  of  the  most  perfect  cable-tram 
systems  we  have  ev(^r  seen.  Indeed,  I  could  write  a 
book  on  this  one  city,  Imt  I  must  hasten  on  to  other 
places,  many  of  vJiich  will,  no  doubt,  prove  of  more 
interest  to  my  readers. 

We  took  our  departure  from  ^Melbourne  on  Satur- 
day, May  2(3,  at  noon^  taking  passage  on  the  magnif- 

88 


FROM  MELBOURNE  TO  ADELAIDE 


89 


,i: 


icent  steamer,  Orotava,  which  was  to  be  our  home 
till  we  reached    Egypt.     Our  passage  to  Adelaide 
proved  a  very  pleasant  one.   Our  ship  dropped  anchor 
on  the  following  Monday  at  daylight,  in  Larger  Bay, 
and  a  steam  tender  came  out  from  the  wharf  bring- 
ing, among  others,   friends  to  meet  us.     We  were 
taken  ashore  and  driven  to  a  hospitable  home,  where 
we  stopped  daring  the  two  days  we  were  in  the  city. 
On  the  next  day  we  were  taken  to  the  top  of  Mount 
Lofty,  2,400  feet  high,  and  ten  or  twelve  miles  from 
the  city,  where    we  had  a  nice  family  picnic  and  ob- 
tained a  fir.e  view  of  the   surrounding  country.  The 
drive  was  a  delightful  one,  the  road  being  smooth, 
and  winding  its  way  gracefully  up  the  mountain  side, 
and  near  the  city  taking    us    between  vineyards, 
orange,   fig,  olive  and  almond  trees.     We  saw  the 
Devil's  Elbow,  a  bend  in  the  steep  part  of  the  moun- 
tain road,  which  has  been  the  scene  of  a  number  of 
serious  accidents.     Our  host,  who  is  a  preacher  and 
ought  to  know,  said  the  devil   was  not  satisfied   by 
showing  his  elbow,  for  he  sometimes  also  showed  his 
hand  in  this  country.    If  Adelaide  has  only  seen  his 
elbow  and  hand  it  has  reason  to  be  thankful.    Thel;^ 
are  places  where  he  seems  to  walk  about  exposing 
bis  whole  person  without  the  least  fear. 

Adelaide  is  a  pretty  city,  built  of  stone  and  brick 
in  accordance  with  a  municipal  regulation,  as  a  proof 
against  fire,  such  houses  also  being  cooler  in  this  hot, 
sunshiny  summer  weather.  Its  suburbs  are  separated 
from  the  city  proper  by  park-like  reserves,  which 
give  a  pleasing  appearance  to  the  surroundings.   We 


n 


i 


■1     :£ 


90  OUR  TOUR  AROUND   THE   WORLD  I 

much  enjoyed  a  walk  through  the  beautiful  Botan- 
ical Gardens.  In  the  evening  I  spoke  in  one  of  the 
principal  churches  to  the  Young  People's  Endeavor 
Society,  a  large  audience  being  present. 

Altogether,  we  were  highly  pleased  with  our  visit     • 
to  Adelaide.     We  would  like  to  linger  here  longer; 
but  our  faces  are  set  towards  Jerusalem,  and  the  time 
of  our  departure  is  at  hand.     Friends  accompany  us 
I  to  our  boat,  the  whistle  sounds,  we  wave  our  hand- 

kerchiefs and  again  we  are  oif. 


LETTER  XIV. 

ON  THE   INDIAN  OCEAN. 

On  leaving  Adelaide  the  line,  "We  are  out  on  the 
ocean  sailing,"  was  literally  true.  But  the  next 
verse,  which  says,  "Homeward  bound  we  sweetly 
glide,"  needed  to  be  considerably  modified  till  our 
head-wind  ceased  and  the  sea  became  smoother. 

From  Port  Adelaide  we  sailed  right  out  into  the 
great  Australian  Bight,  and  for  three  days  and  four 
nights  our  boat  was  see-sawing  and  rolling  on  these 
turbulent  waters.  On  the  second  day  out  the  tables 
were  cleared  three  times  of  much  of  their  contents 
while  the  stewards  were  preparing  our  dinner,  and 
many  of  the  passengers  kept  their  beds. 

We  saw  no  land  till  we  reached  Albany,  in  Western 
Australia,  the  first  and  last  port  of  call  on  the 
Australian  continent  for  the  boats  on  this  line.  Be- 
fore our  arrival,  I  asked  an  officer  what  theie  was  to 
see  in  Albany.  His  reply  was:  "Sand  and  rocks." 
This  I  found  to  be  about  correct.  The  town  has  a 
population  of  about  twelve  hundred,  and  is  of  little 
importance,  except  to  the  shipping  interests.  It  is 
connected  by  rail  with  Perth,  the  capital  of  Western 
Australia,  two  hundred  and  sixteen  miles  away.     It 

91 


92 


OUR   TOUR   AROUA'D   THE    WORLD 


has  li  good  liarbor,  and  tlie  water    approaching  the 
city   is   calJed  King  George   Sound.     There   are  no 
beaches  around  Jiere  worth  the  name,  the  rocks   for 
the  most  part,  sloping  abruptly  into  the  deep  water 
On  roundnig  the  Cape  from  Albany  we  entered  the 
Indian    Ocean  and  pointed  the  bow  of  our  ship  to- 
wards Colombo,  the  capital  of  Ceylon,  distant  about 
8.300  miles      We   now  settled  down  properly  f.o  life 
on  Ijoard  ship,  aiid  we  were  rather  pleaded  with  our 
new  surroundings.     Our  sliip  was  one  of  the   Jargest 
running  on  the  Oriental  and   Peninsular  lines    and 
so  exceedingly  clean  that  there  was  a  complete   ab- 
sence of  all  offensive  smell  such  as  is  too  often  experi- 
enced  on  boats.     We  had  spacious  promenade  decks 
large,  well-ventilated    ajul    l)eautifully  upholstered 
dinmg  saloons,  hot  and  cold  salt  and  fresh  water 
baths,  and  electric  light  in  every  part  of  the  ship 
which,  m  the  state-rooms,  can  be  turned   on  and  olf 
by  the  passengers  at  will.     Our  bill  of  fare  was  all 
that  could  be  desired,  comprising  the  good  and  sub- 
stantial things  usually  found  in   first-class  hotels 
from  the  soups  right  down  to  ice-cream,  fruits  and 
nuts. 

We  sailed  on  and  on,  under  a  clear  sky  and  over 
a  smooth  sea-sometimes  as  smooth  as  a  lake  and 
glossy  m  appearance-for  ten  days,  with  little  to 
break  the  monotony,  except  what  the  passengers  and 

crew  devised.     Every  dav  if  1 1  a    ht   ,,.^   i    j 

'^^^  "'^.y  ^^  -li  A.  M.  we   had  music 

on  deck  lor  an  hour  by  a  band  of  string  and  wind 
instruments  belonging  to  the  ship.  Four  evenings 
we  had  creditable  concerts.     Two  nights  there  was 


ON  THE   INDIAN    OCEAN 


98 


dancing  by  those   who  cared  to  indulge  in  that  sort 
of  amusement     A  number  of  days  the  gentlemen 
played  cricket  on  deck.     Several   times   there  wei-^ 
sports,including  re.ces,  jumping,  tug  of  war,  and  such 
like      Almost  daily  we  watched   the  fire  drill,  by 
the  ship's  crew.     When  the  bell  sounded  the  alarm 
the  men  came  swarming  out  of  all  parts  of  the  ship, 
bringing    blankets,   etc.,   with  them,    some   taking 
up  their  positions  at  the  boats  on  deck  and  others  set- 
ting the  pumps   in  motion,  which   sent    the  water 
through  the  hose  high  in  the  air,  while  the  steward- 
esses  took  up  their  positions  about  the  passages  and 
doors  of  the  saloon  to  quiet  the  nervous  women  anc 
children.  The  rest  of  the  time  was  mainly  consumed 
in  reading,  writing,  conversation  and  promenading. 
We  saw  no  sea  monsters,  but  several  times  we  saw 
schools  of  flying  fish,and  watched  with  interest  some 
of  them  shoot  out  of   the  water  to  clear  the  track  ot 
our  vessel,  fly  a   couple  of  hundred  yards  with  great 
rapiditv,    and    suddenly  drop   out  of  sight.     One  ot 
these  fish  managed  to  get  on  our  deck,  and  I  secured 
one  of  its  wings,  pressed  it  and  have  brought  li  homo 
for  exhibition.     It  is  simply  a  big  fin  of  a  small  fi.h 
used  as  a  wing.     On  Sundays  the  captain  conducted 
Church  of  England  service  in  the  saloon  at  H  a.  M- 
(after  dancing  most  of  Saturday  night),  and    it  tdl 
to  my  lot  to  conduct  evangelistic  services  on  Sunday 
evenings  at  half-past  seven.     There  wa.  a  Church  of 
England  clergyman  from  Ceylon  on   board;  but  he 
declined  to  join    me  in  any  sort  of  service,  and   the 
captain  did  not  ask  him  to  assist  in  the  morning 


94  OUR  TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD 

service.  But  when  he  saw  that  the  evening  meetings 
proved  a  great  success,  even  while  he  was  walking 
the  deck,  he  proposed  to  "take  charge"  of  them. 
But  the  Church  of  England  people,  several  of  whom 
were  on  board,  joined  the  other  passengers  in  declin- 
ing to  have  the  services  interfered  with.     In  fact,  a 
High  Churchman  played  the  piano  while  the  congre- 
gation joined  in  singing  Sankey's  songs.     We   also 
had  on  board  another  very  religious  gentleman  from 
Australia.     He  refused  to  join  in  any  of  the  innocent 
sports,  and  he  thought  all  the  passengers  who  en- 
gaged in  jumping  were    jumping  straight  to  hell. 
With  him  the  tug  of  war  was  a  contest  between  de- 
mons over  which  the  angels  were  weeping.     He  usu- 
ally sat  by  himself  on  some  secluded  part  of  the  deck 
with  his  Bible  in  his  hand.     He  was  never  seen  to 
smile  during  the   whole  voyage,  and  he  wore  a  face 
as  long  as  the  face  of  a  Kentucky  mule  in  the  civil 
war.     Seriously,  I  believe  there  is  a  difference  be- 
tween piety  and  longfacedness.     I  am  satisfied  with 
the  former  without  the  latter.     On  board  ship  the 
limits  of  true  refinement  and  iDure  religion  should 
never  be  transcended,  but  all  long  faces  should   be 
charged  for  the  extra  amount  of  space  they  occupy. 

As  we  entered  the  tropics  we  felt  the  heat  consid- 
erably, and  the  crew  and  passengers  donned  their 
white  costumes.  The  large  fans  in  the  dining  saloons, 
moved  by  steam  power,  were  also  set  in^ motion. 

At  10  p.  M.,  on  June  11,  we  crossed  the  equator, 
thus  passing  into  the  Northern  Hemisphere.  We 
could  not  see  the  line,  not  even  with  our  glasses  (this 


ON  THE   INDIAN    OCEAN 


95 


is  a  joke).  But  I  dipped  up  here  a  small  bottle  of 
water,  and  have  brought  it  home  with  me  as  a  re- 
minder of  having  crossed  the  line.  At  this  point  the 
moon  was  directly  over  our  heads,  and  we  had  some 
very  beautiful  sunsets,  the  clouds  streaked  with  scar- 
let taking  the  forms  of  trees,  animals,  etc.,  as  the 
sun  sank  below  the  horizon.  We  were  looking  for- 
ward to  a  delightful  break  in  our  long  voyage,  and 
were  all  making  oar  arrangements  to  spend  a  day 
ashore.     Finally,  Colombo  came  in  sight. 


LETTER   XV. 


IN    COLOMBO,   CEYLON. 


After  a  ten  clays'  sea  voyage  under  a  tropical  sun, 
the  sight  of  land  is  very  welcome,  and  the  prospect 
of  a  day  ashore  "lends  enchantment  to  the  view." 
The  approach  to  Colombo  is  fine.  First  the  low 
coast,  fringed  with  the  graceful  cocoanut  palms,  is 
visible;  and  then  tlie  Ihig-staff,  the  forts,  the  spires 
of  some  of  the  principal  churches,  and  finally  the 
city  itself  come  into  view. 

It  was  on  Wednesday,  June  18,  at  9:80  a.  m.,  we 
rounded  the  magnificent  breakwater,  which  cost  more 
than  $8,500,000,  and  dropped  anchor  in  the  harbor, 
comprising  some  500  acres  of  water,  sheltered  from 
the  southwest  monsoon.  What  a  scene  1  The  whole 
harbor  seemed  alive  with  floating  humanity.  In- 
stantly hundreds  of  boats  of  various  sizes  and  euri- 
ous  patterns,  from  three  straight  logs  tied  together 
up  to  the  coal  hulks,  approached  us  from  all  direc- 
tions, pushing  and  colliding  as  they  came;  while 
their  occupants  were  pulling,  singing  and  shouting 
as  though  each  one's  life  depended  on  his  reaching 
us  first.  A  few  minutes  later  the  sides  and  decks  of 
our  ship  were  literally  swarming  with  the  almost 

96 


IN    COLOMIiO,     OKYLON 


97 


nude  natives,    bringiu.^  twincid   iruiiH,    hIioHh,  and 
various  otheu  articl(3H  I'or  salo  to  tho  pusriongors      It 
was  an  auimatud    and   inlurosling  ncenu,  nuvur  to  be 
forgotten.      ICveryLliuig  wa^  so  strangu— ^o  dUlorent 
.rom  what  we   had   b.un   ucuiistomed   to   see.     We 
Haemed  to  be  approaching  a  now  world.   lUit  the  next 
t  hing  was  to  get  a.horo.      Wo  couUl  take  our  clioice 
botween  a  native  outrigger  canoo,  a  jolly  boat,    pro- 
tected with  beautiful  awnings,  or   one  ol   the   steam 
launches.    We  chose  the  last-named,  and  amidst  the 
din  of  the  natives,  literally  scrambled  over  a  num- 
ber  of  smaller  boats  into  our  launch.     It  was  every 
man  for  himself  here;  and  it  also   came  very    near 
bmng  every  lady  for  herself.     It  was  almost  as  bad 
as  a  game  of  football  played  by  students  of  rival  col- 
leges. We  took  a  long  breath,  our  little  steamer  gave 
ti  sharp  whistle,  and  we  were  olf  for  the  shore. 

We  engaged  an  Indian  guide  who  could  speak  Eng- 
lish fairly  well,  and  a  couple  of  two-horse  carriages 
for  our  little  party  of  six,  and  we  started  out  to  see 
t,he  sights.  The  day  was  clear,  and  the  sun,  which 
was  afmost  directly  over  us  at  noon,  was  hot.  In 
sDme  of  the  large  European  shops,  and  some  ot  the 
native  ones,  great  fans,  in  long  rows,  swmguig  from 
the  ceiling,  were  kept  constantly  in  motion  by  natives 
(Muployed  for  that  purposi^.  Yet  toward  evening  it 
was  pleasant  driving  in  the  shade  of  the  trees. 

The  city  of  Colombo  covers  an  area— excluding  the 
large  lake  around  which  much  of  the  city  is  built— 
about  ten  miles  square,  and  has  a  population  of  some 
128,000,    including  a  good  sprinkling  of  Europeans. 


98 


OUR  TOUR  AROUND   THE   WORLD 


The  siruots  are  broad  and  well  luade,  but  in  many 
places  have  no  sidewalks,  the  pe(jple  as  well  as  the 
conveyances  occuj)ying  the  full  w  idth  of  the  street. 
The  streets  were  lined  with  wonderful  trees  of  great 
variety,  clothed  in  all  the  richness  peculiar  to  the 
tropics;  and  the  cocoanut  palms,  banana  trees,  ever- 
green shrubs  and  fragrant  flowers,  which  abound 
everywhere,  looked  very  beautiful  and  refreshing. 
We  drove  through  the  principal  streets,  on  either  side 
of  which  were  native  huts  and  bazaars  initrspersed 
with  European  bungalows  and  business  houses. 
Jinrickshas  and  hackeries  were  running  in  every 
direction,  either  carrying  some  one  or  soliciting 
patronage.  A  jinricksha  is  a  very  light  two-wheeled 
conveyance,  with  a  movable  top,  drawn  by  a  cooly 
between  the  shafts.  We  saw  many  of  these  poor 
coolies  running  with  all  their  might  through  the 
streets  with  the  perspiration  streamingoff  their  nude 
bodies,  while  behind  them,  in  flowing  Oriental  robes, 
sat  a  great  chunk  of  heathen  flesh, urging  on  what  he 
evidently  considered  his  beast  of  burden.  It  seems 
to  me  that  no  person  with  a  conscience  can  ride  behind 
his  fellow'-creature  in  the  shafts;  and  ns  we  had  a 
little  conscience  left,  we  declined  to  get  into  a  jin- 
ricksha. We  left  these  conveyances  to  our  long- 
faced  passengers,  some  of  whom  we  saw  riding  about 
in  them  with  much  satisfaction.  A  hackery  is  a 
two-wheeled,  springless  cart,  drawn  by  a  little  brown 
buffalo  about  three  feet  high,  w^ithout  horns,  and 
having  a  large  hump. 

When  we  stopped  a  moment    the  nude   natives 


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IN  COLOMBO,  CEYLON 


99 


crowded  around  us  to  beg,  and  to  steal  if  they  had 
a  chance.  I  call  them  nude,  for  some  of  these  people 
wear  nothing  at  all,  except  the  hair  on  their  heads, 
and  that  uncombed;  while  a  fig  leaf  each  would 
suffice  to  clothe  many  of  the  rest  of  them  After  a 
couple  of  hours  of  this  experience  blaster  Trotter 
said,  "Papi,  let  us  go  back  to  the  boat  I  am  tired 
looking  at  these  naked  people."  We  visited  the 
cinnamon  gardens, which  have  been  imujortulized  by 
Bishop  Heber's  well-known  stanza:  "What  tln)' 
the  spicy  breezes  blow  soft  o'er  Ceyhni's  isle,"  and 
we  brought  away  sample  branches  of  the  ciiniamon 
trees  with  us. 

When  you  break  a  branch  from  a  cinnamon  tree  or 
crush  the  leaves  you  may  smell  the  spice.  But  in 
some  parts  of  Colombo  you  will  meet  with  anything 
but  "spicy  breezes."  Indeed,  we  met  with  some 
breezes  which  we  thought  might  have  been  improved 
by  being  spiced.  But  in  traveling  around  the  world 
one's  nose  must  learn  not  to  be  verv  critical. 

We  spent  some  time  in  the  principal  Buddhist 
temple,  where  we  saw  a  reclining  image  of  Buddha 
in  beautiful  white  stone,  twenty-seven  feet  long 
The  walls  of  the  temple  are  very  tastefully  orna- 
mented with  frescoes,  depicting  scenes  in  the  history 
of  Buddha;  one  of  the  most  interesting  representa- 
tions being  the  great  victory  of  Buddha  over  the 
devils.  We  saw  now  and  tlien  the  curious  and  beau- 
tiful banyan  tree,  which  is  sacred  to  these  people. 
We  saw  women  by  the  lake  washing  clothes  by  dip- 
ping them  in  the  cold  water   and  beating  them  over 


il 


100  OUR  TOUR  AROUND   THE    WORLD 

a  large  stone.  We  also  visited  the  wonderful  fruit 
markets,  the  iiuiseum  and  otlier  objects  of  special 
interest  about  the  strange  city.  WJiile  in  the  fruit 
markets  wb  bouglit  n  Jarge  basket  and  Kiled  it  with 
choice  tropical  traits.  Our  guide  called  a  native 
policeman  to  protect  us  aganist  thieves  while  we 
made  our  purchases.  While  in  the  museum  we  left 
our  driver  with  the  carriage  at  the  door  to  guard  our 
basket.  When  we  returned  a  quantity  of  the. fruit 
was  missing.  The  driver  said  he  knew  nothing  about 
the  missing  fruit,  and  the  guide  said  the  driver  was 
perfectly  honest!  When  our  carriage  would  stop  a 
moment,  the  brown  urchins,  who  had  picked  up  a  iow 
words  of  English,  would  lay  their  hai.ds  on  their 
stomachs  and  say,  ":Me  hungry,  no  njamma,  no 
papa."  We  referred  them  to  our  driver  for  fruit. 
We  took  dinner  at  a  native  hotel,  Avhere  not  a  word 
of  English  Mas  spokei].  They  brought  us  three  kinds 
of  meat,  and  we  set  to  eating  and  discussing  it,  but 
as  much  doubt  was  raised  as  to  what  we  were  really 
eating,  the  whole  company  pushed  their  plates  aside, 
and  we  finislied  the  meal  on  fruits  and  iced  lemonade. 
Besides  some  good  native  hotels,  there  are  some  mag- 
nificent European  hotels  and  business  houses  in  the 
city. 

The  native  barber  shops  are  a  curiosity.  Two  men 
sit  on  the  naked  ground  facing  each  other,  with  their 
feet  and  legs  doubled  uj)  under  them.  On^  of  these 
is  the  barber,  the  other  is  the  barbarized,  and  the 
process  is  barbarous  The  barber  looks  his  customer 
straight  in  the  face,  holds  him  by  the  chin  and  de- 


'  4> 


IN    COLOMBO,   CEYLON  101 

liberately  proceeds  to  chop  off  his  beard  with  a  dull 
substitute  for  a  razor.  The  shop  Iooks  mere  like  a 
chicken  house  with  one  side  knocked  out  of  it.  I 
would  rather  take  a  Nazarite  vow  than  be  shaved 
in  these  shops. 

Ceylon  lies  in  the  Indian  Ocean  a  little  north  of 
the  equator,  and  is  under  British  rule.  The  island 
is  2G7  miles  long  and  140  miles  wide,  and  contains 
an  area  of  about  24,700  square  miles.  Its  highest 
mountain  is  8,2()9  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and 
its  longest  river  is  150  miles  in  length.  The  island 
is  very  beautiful  and  interesting, 
.  The  national  religion  of  the  Singhalese  is  Bud- 
dhism, which  claims  ninety-one  per  centof  the  popu- 
lation, Hinduism  and  INIohammedanism  also  claim 
large  numbers  of  the  people. 

The  Roman  Catholic,  Church  of  England,  Presby- 
terian, Methodist  and  Baptist  churches  and  the  Sal- 
vation Army  are  all  represented  in  Colombo,  some 
of  them  having  a  strong  footing.  The  missionaries 
have  done  and  are  doing  good  work  in  Colombo,  and 
in  other  parts  of  the  island 

But  our  time  is  up,  and  we  must  return  to  our 
boat.  We  paid  our  guide  and  released  him.  The 
total  cost  of  his  services  and  the  two  carriages  with 
their  drivers  for  the  greater  ])art  of  the  day,  was 
$2.50.  We  were  thoroughly  satisfied.  We  took  our 
leave  of  the  shores  of  Ceylon  a  happy  company. 


, '  i: 


t 


LETTER  XVI. 

ON   THE    RED    SEA. 

On  leaving  Colombo  we  headed  toward  the  Red 
Sea,  and  onr  good  ship  was  eight  days  steaming  the 
distance  betweeu  the  two  places.  The  monsoon 
swept  down  unmercifully  on  us  much  of  the  way; 
but  our  ship  held  steadily  on  her  course,  plowing 
through  the  troubled  waters,  while  the  mountain 
waves  broke  over  her  upper  decks,   and  tossed  the  ' 

spray  clear  over  her  great  funnels      Wonderful  is  ' 

man's  power  over  the  angry  seal  \ 

Sometimes  the  strong  wind  would  lift  the  spray  i 

high  from  tlie   crest  of  the  huge  waves,  and  the  sun,  \ 

sliiniiig  through    it,  would  form  a  small  momentary  ! 

rainbow.    When  wo  could  find  a  safe  standing-place  I 

on  dock,  we  watched  with  much  interest  tliese  beau- 
tiful   rainbows.     How  wonderful  are   God's  works  1  i 

To  lis  the  ocean  in  its  ever-changing  phases,  whether  | 

wihl  or  calm,  is  a  source  of  perpetual  fascination. 

On  the  sixtli  day  we  were  running  close  beside  the 
island  of  Socotra,  eighty-tv/o  miles  long  and  twenty  j 

wide,  with  bold  and  rugged  coasts,  mostly  barren 
interior,  and  inhabited  by  a  few  Arab  and  English 
families,    which    sheltered  us  much  from  the  wind.  i 

Two  days  later  we  sailed  very  smoothly  over  the  Gulf 
of  Aden,  with  a  gentle   breeze  from   the   shores  of 


102 


i 


( 


ON  THE   RED   SEA  108 


■I  ;l 


Africa  to  temper  the  heat  sufficiently  to  make  it 

bearable.     In  the  evening,  after  the  sun  had  ceased 

to  shine,  and  the  moon  and  stars  were   illuminating 

the  heavens,  we  stepped  to  the  port  side  of  our  ship 

and  took  our  last  look  at  the  Southern  Cross;  and 

then  passed   to  the  starboard  side  and  gazed  al  the 

North  Star  for  the  first  time  in  nine  years.  It  seemed  |fi 

like  an  old  friend  whom  we  desired  to  greet  pleas-  |  J 

antly  and  accept  as  our  polar  guide  in  the  Northern  \ 

Hemisphere.     Though  we  had  not  seen  it  for  so  long  :^  k 

a  time,  we  knew  just  whereto  find  it.  All  Christians  U] 

should  be  as  true  to  their  places  in  the  spiritual  firma-  1 1 

ment,   as  steady  lights  and  as  faithful   guides,  as  |r 

this  little  star  is  in  filling  its  place  in  the  material 

heavens. 

We  passed  out  of  the  Indian  Ocean  into  the  Red 
Sea  through  the  Strait  of  Bab-el-Mandeb,  which    is 
fourteen  miles  wide,  and  divided   by  Perim    Island, 
I  with  high,   steep    peaks,   making  the  southwestern 

I  channel,  through  which  we  passed,  only   ten  miles 

across.  To  our  left,  on  a  gravelly  hill  near  the  shore, 
f-  stood  the   lighthouse   and  the  British  fort.     On  the  | 

j  right  were  to  be  seen  the  rugged  shores   and   sandy 

plains  of  Arabia.     We  expected  to  be  very  nearly 
roasted  on  the  Red  Sea.   We  were  aware  that  passen- 
i  gers  over  it  have  died  from  the  eflfocts  of  the  terrible 

,  heat  experienced,  and  we  were  preparing  for  the  or- 

!  deal  days  beforehand.     We  were    agreeably  disap- 

pointed. Nature  seemed  to  specially  favor  us,  for  we 
had  a  nice  refreshing  head-wind,  and  the  highest 
register  of  the  thermometer  in  the  cabin  after  sunset 


•.i  ' 

Sea  throueh  the  Strait  of  Bab-el-Mandeh.  whinh    is  ,, 


I!. 


■j{ 

si  r- 


,:\  i- 


104 


OUR   TOUR   AROUND   THE    WORLD 


was  92  degree.^.  In  the  absence  of  this  wind, which  is 
only  Dccasionaljy  experienned,  tliere  are  few  hotter 
places  on  this  earth  during  the  puninier  months. 

If  there  is  one  place  on  earth  more  than  another 
whereai)':'rson  enjoys  eating  ice-creani  it  is  probably 
on  the  lied  Sea  on  a  summer's  day.  Our  chief  stew- 
ard seemed  to  understand  this  fact,  and  hence  his 
supjily  of  the  cooling  cream  greatly  ploased  us.  We 
also  Hp(>nt  a  Lord's  Day  on  the  Red  Sea;  and  as  I 
spoke  to  the  people  in  our  religious  service  of  the 
miraculous  passage  of  Israel  through  the  waters  near 
the  head  of  this  sea,  we  seemed  to  enter  into  a  reaJi- 
zalion  of  the  fact  as  never  before. 

The  Red  Sea  is  1,200  miles  long,  and  180  miles 
wide  at  the  widest  point;  and  we  were  nearly  four 
days  in  sailing  through  it  from  end  to  end.  'it  has 
numerous  small  islands.  Soon^after  our  entrance  into 
it,  we  passed  on  our  starljoard  side  twelve  of  these 
islands,  called  The  Twelve  Apostles,  standing  like 
soldiers  in  line  of  battle,  facing  the  African  coast, 
separated  from  one  another  by  about  a  mile  of  sea. 
^'Enormous  coral  reefs  run  along  the  Arabian  coast 
in  broken  lines,  parallel  to  the  shore,  but  not  con- 
nected with  it.  They  usually  rise  out  of  deep  water 
to  within  a  few  feet  of  the  surface;  and  a  navigable 
channel  of  from  two  to  three  miles  in  width,  in 
which  the  water  is  always  calm,  extends  between 
them  and  the  land."  There  are  also  extensive  coral 
reefs  in  other  parts  of  the  sea,  and  beautiful  shells 
from  it  are  exposed  for  sale  in  Cairo  and  other  like 
places.     The  northern  part  of  the  sea  divides  into 


i 


r 


ON   THE    RED   SEA  105 

two  gulfs,  those  of  Suez  and  Akaba;  and  the  former, 
over  which  we  sailed,  is  170  miles  long,  with  an  av- 
erage width  of  thirty  miles.  The  name  lied  Hea  is 
of  doubtful  origin.  Some  scholars  think  it  took  its 
name  from  the  limestones  of  a  rich  reddish-brown 
color  seen  along  the  cliffs.  Tiie  water  itself,  instead 
ofj)eing  red,  is  a  beautiful,  clear  greenish-blue.  I 
secured  a  bottlj  of  it  Since  entering  tlie  sea,  some 
of  our  passengers  have  been  trying  to  keep  cool  by 
moving  their  beds  of  nights  from  their  cabins  to  the 
saloons  and  decks.  The  heat  is  particularly  hard  on 
our  whisky  and  beer  guzzlers;  the  rest  of  us  sutfer 
but  little. 

We  find  much  interest  and   pleasure   in  watching 

the  numerous  ships  going  to  and  fro  over  this  great 

'\  world's  thoroughfare.     About  half-way  along  on  the 

eastern  shore  of  the  Red  Sea  is  the  Arabian  town  of 

Jiddah,  also  written    Djiddah;  but  our  boat  did  not 

go  near  enough  to  give  us  a  sight  of   it.     The   town 

is  the  landing  place  of    the  pilgrims  on  their  way  to 

jj  IVIecca,  which  is   about  forty-five  miles  away.     It  is 

i  estimated  that  the  average  number  of  pilgrims  that 

land  here   annually  is  about  40,000.     We  saw  ships 

crowded  with   these  pilgrims  returning  from  their 

holy  city. 


3  ,i» 


LETTER  XVII. 

Israel's  passage  through  the  red  sea. 

We  are  in  the  land  of  the  Pharaoh8,and  are  touch- 
ing the  borders  of  sacred  history.  We  reached  Suez 
on  Monday  morning,  June  25,  at  10  o'clock,  and 
dropped  anchor  in  plain  view  of  the  town.  We  had 
a  splendid  night's  rest,  the  air  being  refreshingly 
cool  and  the  sea  remarkably  smooth.  We  arose  at 
four  o'clock  and  turned  our  glasses  towards  the  east, 
hoping  to  catch  a  glimpse  of  Mount  Sinai,  which  at 
times  is  plainly  visible  from  a  ship's  deck  on  this  sea. 
We  were  disappointed,  the  haze  about  the  tops  of 
the  intervening  hills  obscuring  our  view.  But  we 
saw  a  beautiful  sunrise,  the  sun  shooting  up  sud- 
denly from  behind  the  Arabian  mountains  like  a 
great  ball  of  fire,  and  moving  majestically  on  his 
course. 

We  next  turned  our  attention  to  the  place  of 
IsraePs  crossing  and  the  destruction  of  the  Egyptian 
hosts;  and  we  obtained  a  most  excellent  view  from 
both  sides  of  our  ship.  We  have  no  doubt  that  this 
crossing  is  correctly  located  by  many  a  few  miles 
south  of  the  present  head  of  the  sea,  and  in  sight 
of  the  new  town  which  has  sprung  up  near  the  en- 
trance to  the  Suez  Canal.     On  our  left,  we  could  see 


106 


r 


Israel's  passage  through  the  red  sea     107 

distinctly  where  two  mountain  ranges,  running  par- 
allel to  the  sea,  meet,  leaving  a  gap  between  them 
through  wliich  Israel  could  pass;  and  beginning  at 
the  mouth  of  this  gap,  there  is  spread  out  a  beauti- 
ful beach  some  two  miles  wide  and  several  miles  long, 
sloping  gently  down  to  the  water.  On  this  beach, 
no  doubt,  Israel  camped  "by  the  sea,"  and  thus  be- 
came "entangled  in  the  land."  Here  the  sea  is 
about  eight  miles  across  and  sufficiently  deep  for  the 
w-aters  to  stand  up  as  a  "congealed  wall  unto  them 
on  their  right  hand  and  on  their  left  "  On  our  right, 
opposite  this  camping  place,  is  seen  the  beautiful 
oasis  known  as  The  Fountains  of  Moses,  situated  on 
a  sandy  plain  a  mile  from  the  seashore.  Here  the 
hosts  of  Tsrael  could  easily  land,  refresh  themselves 
with  an  abundance  of  water,  and  witness  the  over- 
throw of  the  Egyptians  in  the  depths  of  the  sea  At 
this  point  the  land  and  the  Book  seem  to  agree  in 
every  detail;  but  from  a  close  observation  from  this 
place  along  the  canal  all  the  way  to  Ismailia  we  are 
fully  convinced  that  no  other  place  on  this  line  for 
the  crossing  for  Israel  will  at  all  meet  the  require- 
ments of  the  Scriptures,  and  the  devout  Christian 
can  accept  no  theory  which  takes  no  account  of  the 
inspired  record,  or  flatly  contradicts  it. 

It  is  probably  true,  as  Sir  J.  W.  Dawson  and  others 
have  ably  argued  from  a  geological  point  of  view,  that 
the  Red  Sea  at  one  time  did  extend  considerably 
farther  north  than  its  present  position ;  but  it  is  not 
clear  that  this  was  the  case  at  the  time  of  Israel's 
crossing  it.     Indeed,  as  has  been  very  clearly  shown 


108  OUR   TOUR    AROTTN'D    THE    WOULD 

by  Professor  A.  H.  Suycc,  in  hi^  nH^.out   hook,  enti- 
tled "The  JliLTher  Criticism  aiui  tlio  Moniiineiils,"  a 
canal  already  existed  as  fur  IukjU  as   lli((   sojonrn   of 
Israel  in  Kgpyt,  throni,Hi  which  sliii)s  ciaild  pass  ("rum 
the  Mediterranean  to  the  Kcd  Sea;  and  the  mouth  of 
this  canal,  built  by  the  Pharaohs,  and   re-opened  by 
Darius,  is  to  be   seen  even  now  close  to  the  town    of 
Suez,  thus  showing  tluit  the  Red   Sea  at  the  time  of 
Israel's  departure  from  Goshen,  occupiinl   about   its 
present  position.     Any  theory,  therefore,  sui)porte(l 
liy  the  supposed  extension  of   the  sea   farther  north- 
ward at  the  time  of  the  passage  of  Israel  can   not  be 
accepted,     I  never  had  many  doubts    respecting  the 
place  of  Israel's  crossing  tlie  Red  Sea,  and  all    these 
Jiave  been  completely  set  at  rest  by  my  personal  ob- 
servations along  the  Gulf  of  Suez  and  the  Suez  Canal, 
coupled  with  a  careful  review  of  the   whole   subject. 
The  troublo   with   some  critics  is,  they  assume  the 
Bible  statements  to  be  untrue,  and  then  they  set  to 
work  to  prove  their  owji  "theories  true.     But   true 
criticism  allows  the  Bible  to  be  true  till  proved  false, 
and  while  it  remains  true  all  theories  must  be  tested 
by  its  facts. 

While  in  the  Suez  Bay  we  were  surrounded  by 
small  Arab  boats,  and  some  jugglers  from  among 
their  occui)ants  came  on  board  and  performed  some 
astonishing  feats.  One  of  these  grave-looking  Arabs 
sat  flat  down  on  the  deck,  spread  his  handkerchief 
on  the  clean  floor^  put  his  hands  under  the  handker- 
chief and  mumbled  something  in  Arabic.  He  re- 
moved the  handkerchief  and,  lol  a  beautiful  mango 


ISRAEL'S    PASSAGE  TIIUOUGH  THE    RED    SEA       109 

])laiit  stiiod  })efore  you.  IIo  repented  tlie  process  and 
till)  plant  l)ec'ani(>  u  troc  willi  dirt,  roots,  trunk, 
hrancheHj  leaves  and  fruit.  lie  held  up  a  chicken 
for  your  inspootion,  then  he  api)eared  to  break  it  in 
two,  when  two  chickens  ran  oil  on  deck  lie  would 
hand  you  a  long  white  scurf  and  tell  you  to  cut  it 
into  two  pieces  with  your  knife  Then  he  took  the 
two  pieces,  folded  them  together,  Rf't  the  two  ends 
on  Hro,  extinguished  the  fire  and  straightened  out 
the  scarf,  and  no  sign  of  the  knife  or  fire  could  he 
seen  upon  it.  He  took  two  pcn'son.-^  five  paces  a])art, 
placed  a  piece  of  money  in  the  hand  of  one  and  told 
both  to  close  their  hands  tight.  He  then  told  them 
to  op,?n  thcii'  hands  when  th.'.i  ni*)i;;'y  had  (lis,i[)p'>ared 
from  the  hand  in  which  it  liad  licen  I'.Icic.'d  and  wiis 
found  in  the  h:uid  of  the  .jtlirr  pci'son.  How  wtnvi 
thesv3  and  other  e(|ually  strange  things  d.iic?  The 
passengers  on  whom  ho  op  'ral(.'d,\vith  scores  id"  others 
looking  (jii,  were  l)ent  on  detecting  the  secret  of  liis 
tricks;   but  they  utterly  failed. 

Our  ship])ut  on  an  acUlitionnl  rudder,  and  arranged 
her  powerful  search-light,  and  at  tw  lv<'  noon  we 
weii'hed  anchor  and  steamed  into  t  he  famous  Suez 
canal,  whicli  is  nearly  one  hniidi'ed  mileM  Joiig  from 
sya  to  sea  from  two  ]]undred  to  tlirin-  hiuulred  feet 
widi'  at  thr>.  top,  and  sevenly-lw  >  feet  at  the  l)ottore, 
and  twenty-six  feet  deep,  and  winciing  its  way  like  a 
serpent  through  the  sandy  plain  !)etween  tiie  tv.  :>  r-v.as. 
Sand,  sand,  sand,  everywhere  with  a  few  loose  camels 
strolling  about  at  leisure  and  the  glaring  sun  that 
made  us  adjust  our  green  spectacles  as  a  protection 


110  OUR  TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD 

to  our  eyes.  Once  our  great  boat  stuck  on  the  sand, 
but  with  skillful  management  she  was  soon  floated 
off,  and  we  moved  on  slowly,  passing  ugly  dredges 
at  short  intervals,  which  are  constantly  at  work 
keeping  the  canal  in  order.  We  increased  our  speed 
as  we  sailed  through  the  Bitter  Lakes;  and  finally 
at  7  p.  M.  we  entered  Lake  Tiinsah,  where  we  disem- 
barked  for  our  trip  through  Egypt  A  tender  came 
out  from  the  wharf  with  an  agent  and  interpreter 
to  meet  us.  As  our  little  boat  steamed  awav  tlio 
decks  of  the  great  ship  were  lined  with  the  passengers 
who  waved  us  a  kindly  good-bye.  Thus  we  took  our 
final  leave  of  Her  Majesty's  magnificent  S.  S.  Oro- 
tava. 


■•=^'«"^     <~^^m" 


LETTER  XVIIL 

FROM  ISMAILIA  TO  CAIRO. 

On  landing  atlsmailiawe  were  near  to,  if,  indeed, 
not  exactly  in,  the  land  of  Goshen ;  and  since  the 
departure  of  Israel,  the  frogs  have  also  come  np  to 
view  this  goodly  spot.  In  the  evening  we  saw  one 
hopping  through  the  reception  room  of  our  hotel,  and 
all  night  their  croaking  in  the  lake  near  by  reminded 
us  of  the  second  plague.  Lake  Timsah,  through  which 
the  Suez  Canal  passes,  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water, 
nine  miles  in  circumference.  Timsah  is  an  Arabic 
word,  meaning  crocodile.  But  the  crocodiles  have 
all  disappeared,  and  a  person  can  bathe  anywhere  in 
the  lake  with  perfect  safety.  On  the  northwestern 
shore  of  this  lake  stands  the  town  of  Ismailia,  which 
was  mainly  built  up  during  the  construction  of  the 
canal.  It  has  a  population  of  between  four  and  five 
thousand,  comprising  French,  Greek  and  Arab  quar- 
ters. Its  broad  macadamized  streets  and  regular 
squares  are  bordered  with  shade  trees,  which  afford 
protection  from  the  sun  and  impart  a  pleasing  ap- 
pearance to  the  town.  Around  the  wharf,  at  the  foot 
of  the  principal  street,  there  is  lying  quite  a  fleet 
of  Arab  boats  and  small  steam  launches,  while  a  sig- 
nal station  stands  on  the  shore  a  few  paces  away. 
Here  the  agent  of  Thomas  Cook  &  Son,   who  had 

111 


t 


I 


^ 


112 


OUR   TOUR   AROUND   THE    WORLD 


landed  us  from  our  steamer,  assisted  us  to  pass 
through  the  small  Custom  House,  conducted  us  to 
the  Victoria,  a  French  hotel,  and  put  us  into  very 
pleasant  quarters.  The  broad  balcony,  on  to  which 
the  door  of  our  room  opened,  overlooked  a  court  em- 
bowered in  trees,  shrubs  and  vines,  laden  with  beau- 
tiful flowers  and  tropical  fruits. 

In  the  morning, accompanied  by  a  guide,  we  took  a 
stroll  through  the  town  and  saw  the  temporary  home 
of  the  late  M.  de  Lesseps  durnig  the  building  of  the. 
canal.     We  also  saw  a   villa  of  the  Khedive    and 
walked  through  its  beautiful  gardens;  and  examined 
a  collection  of  ancient   monuments   standing  in  the 
public  square,  having  been  brought  from   the  Scrip- 
ture Pithom  about  twelve  miles  away.   In  this  inter- 
esting collection  are  three  sitting  figures   in   Syene 
granite  a  little  larger  than  life      The  central   one  is 
Rameses  11. ,  and  the  gods  Ra  and  Tum  sit  at  either 
side.  "There  is  also  a  monumental  stone  of  the  same 
granite,  inscribed  with  the  record  of  the  building  of 
the  temple,  a  monolithic  sanctuary  and  sphinx,  cut 
in  the  brown  quartzite  of  Jebel   Ahmar,    and  two 
large  sphinxes  in  the  porphyritic  dioriteof  Assouan. 
All  these  objects  are  in  the  best  style  of  the  art  of 
the  nineteenth  dynasty,  and,  as  set  up  in  one  of  the 
chief  cities  of  Goshen,  were  badges  of  the  subjection 
of  the  Hebrews  to  the  king  and  his  gods." 

During  this  walk  we  had  our  first  experience  with 
the  Egyptian  donkey  boys,  who  crowded  around  us, 
extolled  the  merits  of  their  respective  donkeys,  and 
begged  us  to  ride.     We  returned  to  our  hotel,  had  a 


PROM    I8MAILIA   TO    CAIRO  118 

delightful  bath  in  the  lake  and  gathered  some  nice 
shells  from  the  waters.  At  noon  we  took  our  lunch, 
and  at  1:25  p.  m.  we  started  on  our  journey  to 
Cairo,  which  is  about  ninety-nine  miles  distant. 
We  secured  a  compartment  to  ourselves,  purchased 
a  supply  of  delicious  melons,  and  our  train  went 
puffing  through  the  land  of  Goshen.  We  can  now 
understand  better  than  ever  before  why  the  children 
of  Israel  in  the  wilderness  remembered  and  longed 
for  the  melons  of  Ei^ypt,  We  noted  fifteen  stations 
along  the  line,  Zagazig  and  one  or  two  others  being 
towns  of  considerable  importance. 

It  is  now  generally  understood  that  the  Scripture 
Goshen  comprises  a  narrow  valley  of  cultivated  soil, 
with  desert  on  both  sides,  about  eighty  miles  long, 
beginning  northeast  of  Cairo,  and  extending  east- 
ward nearly  as  far  as  Ismailia.  Tliis  valley  is  now 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  districts  in  P^gypt,  the  fer- 
tile land  being  covered  with  luxuriant  crops,  numer- 
ous sheep  and  cattle,  large  groves  of  date-palms  and 
populous  villagds.  We  saw  one  herd  containing 
probably  four  hundred  camels,  grazing;  and  on  the 
back  of  one,  going  eastward,  we  counted  fivo  women 
and  a  number  of  small  children.  On  the  back  of 
donkeys  we  saw  men  riding  who  were  larger  than  the 
donkeys.  When  our  train  stopped  at  a  station  Egyp- 
lian  girls  came  alongside  the  windows  with  earthen 
jugs  on  their  heads,  saying,  "  il/o//c/i,"  the  Arab  word 
for  water,  which  they  hoped  to  8(!ll  to  the  passen- 
gers, as  this  train  did  not  carry  drinking  water.  At 
several  stations  we  saw  beautiful  flower-beds  near 
the  homes  of  the  people. 


114  OUR    TOUR    AKOFND    THE    WORLD 

Our  first  station  out  from  Ismailia  wasMashama; 
and  here  is  the  site  of  the  Scripture  Fithoni,  which 
is  distinctly  visible  from  the  railway,  and  "presents 
the  remains  of  fortifications  and  extensive  granaries 
of  crude  bricks."     Here  is  where    the  children   of 
Israel  bent  their  backs  under  the  cruel    bondage  of 
the  Pharaoh  who  "knew  not  Joseph"  and   under  the 
increasing  burdens  of  the  task-masters     Here  are  to 
be  seen  the  bricks  the  Israelites  made  and  the  remains 
of  the  city  and  temples  they   built  as  unmistakable 
monuments  of  the  truthfulness  cf  the  Scripture  nar- 
rative respecting  God's  chosen  people  in  Egypt.     It 
was  difficult  for   us  to  realize  that  we  were   actuallv 
in  the  land  of  Goshen  and  on  the  site  of  one  of  the 
"treasure-cities."     Hence  as  we  were   hurried  along 
through  this  section  of  country,  our  minds  were  full 
of  the  passing  events  of  sacred  history,  and   this, 
coupled  with  the  strange  scenes   by   which  we   were 
surrounded,  made  our  trip  n  very  enjoyable  one.   We 
reached  Cairo  at  5:30  p.  m  ,  and  on  approaching  the 
city  we  had  from  the  car  window   our  first  view   of 
the  Gizeh  Pyramids,  of  which  we  will  speak  in  a  sub- 
sequent letter. 


( 


4» 


t 


LETTER    XIX. 

OFF    TO   THE    PYRAMIDS. 

Arriving  at  the  Egyptian  caj)ital,  and  being  settled 
in  our  rooms,  we  first  mingled  witli  the  curious  crowds 
on  the  streets,  and  then  sat  on  tlie  balcony  of  our 
hotel,  four  stories  up,  till  late  in  the  night,  enjoying 
the  refreshing  air  and  looking  down  on  the  hetero- 
geneous mass  of  moving  humanity.  Yonder,  across 
the  Nile,  we  thought,  stands  one  of  the  wonders  of 
the  ancient  world ;  and  here  at  our  feet  is  a  wonder 
of  the  modern  world.  All  Cairo  seems  to  turn  out 
in  the  evening,  and  the  walks,  streets  and  park-like 
reserves  are  thronged  with  people  till  the  middle  of 
the  night.  A  number  of  brown-back  crows  came  and 
took  up  their  nocturnal  abode  in  the  branches  of  the 
trees  bordering  the  l)road  sidewalks  ojiposite  us,  and 
we  finally  retired  to  enjoy  sweet  rest. 

According  to  arrangemen't,  at  8  o'clock  next  morn- 
ing a  carriage,  containing  a  competent  guide,  called 
at  our  hotel  door;  we  ste[)i)ed  into  it  and  were  off 
to  the  Pyramids  of  Gizcdi.  These  pyramids  are 
situated  eight  miles  west  of  Cairo,  on  a  low  rocky 
plateau  at  the  edge  of  the  Libyan  Desert,  above  the 
highest  water  mark; and, hence,like  all  the  pyramids 

115 


116  OUR    TOUR    AROUND    THE    WORLD 

along  its  banks,  are  on  the  western  side  of  the  Nile. 
Our  drive  took  us  through  some  of  the  best  of  the 
European  parts  of  the  city,  down  to  the  beautiful 
and  substantial  iron  bridge  1,200  feet  long,  which 
spans  the  Nile,  and  of  wiiich  the  people  are  rightly 
proud.  Just  before  reaching  the  bridge  the  pyra- 
mids came  into  view,  and,  except  when  hid  by  the 
intervening  tree- tops,  remained  visible  the  rest  of 
the  way.  At  fir.-^t  sight  they  were  disappointing, 
appearing  small,  and  too  steep  and  smooth  to  be 
ascended ;  but  the  nearer  we  came  to  them  the  grand- 
er they  loomed  up,  till,  finally,  when  we  stood  at 
their  base,  we  felt  that  their  grandeur  could  scarcely 
bo  realized  or  overestimated.  Crossing  the  bridge  we 
drove  for  some  distance  along  the  bank  of  the  river, 
and  then  leaving  the  river  we  went  due  west  till  the 
pyramids  were  reached.  The  road,  the  entire  dis- 
tance, is  elevated,  broad,  macadamized,  and  bordered 
with  acacia  trees,  whose  branches  meet  overhead, 
thus  forming  a  shaded  avenue.  The  road  was  con- 
structed by  tlie  Khedive  in  1868  for  the  Prince  of 
Wales  and  party,  the  stone  for  the  purpose  being 
taken  from  the  pyramids  Along  most  of  the  route, 
on  both  sides  of  the  road,  were  numerous  plots  of 
ground  covered  with  melons,  interspersed  with  small 
fields  of  Indian  corn    approaching  maturity;    and  i 

here  and  there  were  to  he  seen  half-nude  peasants 
working  the  ground  with  primitive-looking  imple- 
ments, or  standing  guard  over  their  property. 

At  the  base  of  the  Gnjat  Pyramid  we  rested  in  a 
small  stone  house  built  for  the  purpose,  refreshed 


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iirs^'^fs  a  a  (leliiiious  iin^loi],  contrHcteil  wiili  tho 
•»h(>»i>  •  tf  tliH  .vr;;l)  vi!l»g«>  ii;\vu-  i)y  tor  iiiiio  of  his 
Ui**..  Mhi''^^  tor  i»H<5h  of  lis;)  io  assirt!  u<i,  >U(d  theu  we 
b'gno  thf^  nvrfur.  '•iliirnili !"  shouted  the  Arni)s, 
*'>.iK)  ciiii  ^^^H^^h  tijo  toj)  FirHt?"'  Id  wuh  oxoitii)^, 
!'»l)or('>UH  HI  i  N'>»nf'\v>iM«.  !u<iii'rou>  work.  The  mode 
m"  proeediii-*'  i>*.  iins,  linri.i-iy:  Two  sure-footed  Arubs 
•i'np  upon  fht'  «ii-  n  u^ovm  vou,  and  one  takos  eacij  ot 
N'our  (I'^UK^i'  ^  ,..(*•'' ?..  i!t!i.'(l  i'»it  *tjnt(!M  in:Ahijid  you 
[o  yitnh  ft'  i:*'  oi.'-^^;''  tw^-  mv:;-  iltM:  prtx't^SH  18  re- 
pHM'^  •   '■::.-^   -i;-  ''o  f'.  f*'m-??''^       \a^\-  our  rt^nuerkj  wtep 

I'j*;  i ; ""^  «v    ^stt'  <*(<'.v-    Win    Jutvt'  ^^oJ{lr    itu-ft  of  \vhat  it 

^    ' -r    .'(!«?'   i<!l^   I'Vraiuid.     J^Ul  l»v?.    iVji.    Wn   Wcl.t,  with 

.^'.^l  piiUneM  }it  iitcrval;-.  i !  :  [i\r  ])hitforiii,  about 
Th.iiV  I'eet  s(}uar<-'  at  tix^  .'■uii  ^oit^  w.-is  reuohod.  Wli':*]) 
Mrri  Trotter  and  NitusL'-f  .johr.  touched  the  pole ereot- 
ed  ni  the  "'.li-r  of  \\uh  nqiuirp,  the  Arabn  i^avf)  a 
sh<Mil  oi  triiini  ■''    .-Old  tlieo.  iike  .-;. .  nir-ny  j];eeKr>,chHt.- 

didsi^ht  Ml  tM"iv  ^v,;rt;  14^,;  ,,.,  (I'oM'l'i'  ilie  iXiteH 
luimeH  t  h-y  h?:  \  •  M«1i;j?iw^  w;^  '»/!ru<..i  \aft,rtlh'd 
Al)ri*' Htu,  rtJMt'Hi  i«jftft(?,  ao.5  ?=t;I:  aii*/*!"*''"  J««:oh 
Tliev  s('<no"*  to  k's<0'/  nu  Aimi-'m-.h'  Jm  rna,hi,  ^tfitl  MiHy 
hnd  nii  ijoHr.d  r.f  M'f»rk  Tw.-iifi.  T.he  only  hidy  ol"  (vir 
jmi\y  ■■<i  •(■•n-^  %\H^  .•?i't'.oailv  honored  witii  thv  assist- 
ance- ui  .-ii-f?  .  -;» ^  :uid  I  nrti  of  th;-  oj'.inion  tliat  oh 
the  way  ■'  i-  o  t;-,  us*' {lyrarnid  Al.rahain.  niaiuiged 
to  got  a  liri''.  '•■ftri  >:"':hshi.>,](  io  !'X('h;ii.igo  fi-r  Kgyp- 
tinr.  tviio^;  N» -M  t.i-  loideratanding  tluit.  he  was  to 
tak»'  ii|>  'ii^  elsft^i,;.-  -..{h  ua  much  en. ^t,*  and   graee   as 


I'. 


■ ...  ^s^ 


M        '•'if'^-^.ji^  ■■■'■»,'•- 


Ti^ 


OFF    TO    THE    PVRAMfDS 


117 


-J 


ourselves  on  n  delioioiis  melon,  (5oiitracted  with  the 
sheikh  of  the  Anif)  village  near  by  for  nine  of  his 
men  (three  for  each  of  us)  to  assist  us,  and  then  we 
l)egan  the  ascent.  ^'Hurrah  1"  shouted  the  Arabs, 
"wiio  can  reuch  the  top  first?"  It  was  exciting, 
laborious  and  somewhat  ludicrous  work.  The  mode 
of  procedure  is  tiiis,  iuim(}ly:  Two  sure-footed  Arabs 
leap  upon  the  step  above  you,  and  one  takes  each  of 
y(jur  hands,  while  the  third  one  stands  behind  you 
to  push  as  the  otlier  two  pull.  This  process  is  re- 
peated till  the  top  is  reached.  Let  our  readers  step 
from  the  floor  on  to  the  mantel  or  the  bureau  about 
160  times,  and  they  will  have  some  idea  of  what  it 
is  to  climb  this  pyramid,  liut  up,  up,  we  went,  with 
short  pauses  at  intervals,  till  the  platform,  about 
thirty  feet  square  at  the  summit,  was  reached.  When 
iMrs.  Trotter  and  Master  John  touched  the  pole  erect- 
ed in  the  center  of  this  square,  the  Arabs  gave  a 
shout  of  triumph,  and  then,  like  so  many  geese,chat- 
tered  to  our  annoyance.  These  Arabs  take  great 
delight  in  their  work  and  are  proud  of  the  noted 
names  they  have  adopted.  One  of  them  was  called 
Abraham,  another  Isaac,  and  still  another  Jacob. 
They  seemed  to  know  an  American  at  sight,  and  they 
had  all  heard  of  Mark  Twain.  The  only  lady  of  our 
party  of  three  was  specially  honored  with  the  assist- 
ance of  Abraliam;  and  I  am  of  the  opinion  that  ou 
the  way  to  the  top  of  the  pyramid  Abraham  managed 
to  get  a  little  extra  hakhshish  in  exchange  for  Egyp- 
tian relics  with  the  understanding  that  he  was  to 
take  up  his  charge  with  as  much  ease  and  grace  as 


118  OUK   TOUK   AKUlfNI)   THK  WORLD 

could  be  coinninudttd  luulorthncinuimstaiiceH.  These 
athletic  fellows  iniike  good  use  of  the  fnw  simple 
words  of  English  they  have  learned. 

The  discharge  of  the  time-gun  in  the  city  reminded 
us  that  it  was  exactly  twelve  o'clock  noon,  June  ii7, 
1894.  With  a  sweep  of  the  field  glass,  there  was 
spread  out  before  us  the  most  magnificent  and  inter- 
esting view  on  which  we  had  ever  gazed.  Above  was 
the  cloudless  sky,  through  which  the  brilliant  rays 
of  the  sun  fell  on  us;  beneath  us  stood  one  of  the 
marvels  of  ancient  and  modern  time;  to  the  west  was 
the  Libyan  Desert  stretching  its  yellow  sand  as  far 
as  the  eye  could  see;  to  the  east  was  Cairo  with  its 
suburbs  extending  itself  among  the  green  trees  and 
pointing  its  domes  and  minarets  heavenward;  and 
beginning  at  the  far  south  and  continuing  towards 
the  north  till  lost  in  the  dim  distance,  lay  the  rich 
valley  dotted  with  groves,  fields  and  villages,  and 
which,  during  the  inundation,  becomes  a  vast  lake, 
and  through  this  valley  was  winding  the  majestic 
Nile,  full  of  historic  associations,  finally  mingling 
it  waters  witli  those  of  the  Mediterranean  Sea.  Also 
a  few  miles  to  the  south,  on  the  western  bank  of  the 
Nile,  could  be  plainly  seen  the  cluster  of  pyramids 
about  the  ruins  of  ancient  Memphis. 

After  spending  some  time  with  these  charming 
scenes,  we  descended  to  within  forty-eight  feet  of 
the  ground  on  the  northern  side  of  the  pyramid,  and 
entered  a  passage  nearly  four  feet  square,  and  with 
some  difficulty  and  fatigue  we  went  first  down  and 
then  up,  creeping  through  narrow  openings    and 


OVV   TO    THE    PYKAMIIJH  11',) 

sci'ttinljlinj^  ovor  roiij^h  plncios  till  wh  (3xp]ore(l  the 
interior  to  our  aalisf'jiction.  A  detailed  description 
of  this  exph)rati()ii  1  will  not  attempt  in  these  brief 
letters,  but  v, ill  refer  our  readers  to  the  numerous 
books  whicli  have  been  written  on  the  subject.  We 
returned  to  the  surface  fairly  exhausted,  for  the  aw- 
ful gloom,  lack  of  pure  air  and  the  difficulties  experi- 
enced in  moving  about  have  a  most  depressing  effect 
on  one.  Only  strong,  well  people  should  enter  the 
pyramid,  as  numbers,  especially  ladies,  have  been 
carried  out  of  it  in  an  unconscious  condition. 

The  Great  Pyramid  stands  precisely  to  the  four 
points  of  the  compass,  covers  thirteen  acres  of  ground, 
and  is  451  feet  high,  its  original   height  being  488  '^' 

feet.  Near  by  stand  two  other  pyramids,  the  larger 
of  the  two  being  only  a  few  feet  smaller  than  the 
great  one.  They  are  usually  designated  as  the  Great, 
Second  and  Third  pyramids.  We  gave  an  Arab  a 
franc  to  run  down  the  Great  one  and  ascend  to  the 
top  of  the  Second  one  in  eight  minutes.  He  earned 
his  money.  There  can  be  but  little  doubt  that  the 
general  purp(jse  of  the  pramids  was  to  serve  as  royal 
tombs.  The  Great  Pyramid  was  built  by  Cheops,  the  ^ 

second  king  of  the  fourth  dynasty,  who  lived  about 
#5,700  years  before  Christ.     The  pyramid  was  doubt-  | 

less  intended  for  the  reception  of  his  own  body   and  I 

that  of  his  wife.  Herodotus  represents  Cheops  as 
spending  ten  years  in  making  the  causeway  for  the 
transfer  of  the  materials  and  twenty  more  years  in 
the  construction    of  the  pyramid.     On   this   great  I 

work  he  employed  100,000  men,  who  were  relieved  at  | 


i'  intervals  of  three  months 


120  OUR   TOUR   AROUND   THBJ  WORLI> 

We  next  examined  the  sphinx,  about  a  quarter  oi  \j 

a  mile  away,  and  wljich  is  probably  older  than  the  ^ 

pyramids  and  almost  of  ecpial  interest  with  them. 
Since  the  outstretched  forelegs  have  been  exposed 
by  the  digging  away  of  the  sand,  this  wonderful  piece 
of  sculpture   appears  to   better  advantage.     It   was  ^ 

chiseled  out  of  the  solid  rock  lying  on  the  spot,  and 
following  Professor  McGarvey's  measurements,  "the 
length  of  the  back,  measured  from  the  back  of  the 
neck  to  the  haunches,  is  128  feet,  "it  lifts  its  head  up 
from  the  pavement  on  which  it  reclines,  66  feet  high, 
and  shows  a  breadth  of  face  18  feet  and  8  inches, 
with  a  mouth  7  feet  and  7  inches  wide.  During  its 
eastern  gaze,  for  centuries  past,  it  has  silently  wit- 
nessed the  rise  and  fall  of  many  empires  and  the 
destiny  of  many  peojjles. 

When  you  are  finished  with  the  Arab  assistants, 
their  persistent  clamor  for  6aM67iM  becomes  an  in- 
tolerable nuisance.  About  the  only  things  to  which 
they  would  give  heed  were  the  commands  of  the  old 
sheikh  and  the  vigorous  wielding  of  a  club  in  the 
hands  of  our  dragoman.  We  beat  them  oft',  ''and 
after  the  uproar  was  Cb^ised"  we  returned  to  the 
shade  of  the  trees  along  the  road,  and  took  our  lunch. 
We  then  drove  along  the  Nile  near  to  the  spot  where 
tradition  says  Pharaoh's  daughter  found  Moses  in 
the  ark  of  bulrushes,  and  being  provided  with  our 
bathing  costumes,  we  all  had  a  delightful  bath  in 
the  river,  which  was  once  the  object  of  Egyptian 
worship.  Though  we  paid  for  it  with  stilf  limbs 
days  afterwards,  we  thoroughly  enjoyed  our  visit  to 
the  pyramids. 


\ 


\ 


} 


I  LETTER   XX. 

AMONG  THE  ROYAL    MUMMIES. 


I 


121 


What  was  formerly  the  Boiilak  Museum  has  now 
become  the  Museum   of  Gizeh.     The  palace  of   the 

'  viceroy,  Ismail  Pasha,  at  "  (Jizeh,  a  suburb  of  Cairo, 

has  been  transformed  into  a  museum,  and  the  store 
of  Egyptian  treasures  belonging  to  the  Ancient, 
Middle  and  Modern  Empires  has  been  brought  from 
Boulak,  and  arranged  in  it.     The  building  is  a  mag-  I 

]  nificent  and  spacious  one,  and  it  costabout$25,000,- 

000.  It  is  surrounded  by  an  extensive  and  beautiful 
park,  laid  out  in  European  style,  the  walks  of  which  ^ 

are    a  Mosaic     pavement    made  of    round   pebbles  I 

brought  from  the  desert    and   arranged  in  exquisite  i 

designs,  There  is  also  a  very  beautiful  garden  in 
the  second  story  of  the  palace  covered  with  a  glass 
roof,  and  known  as  the  Harem  Garden. 

The  pilace  is  situated  on  the  road  leading  to  the  | 

Gizeh  Pyramids,  which  was  described  inthepreced-  I 

ing  letter,  and  about  one-tliird  of  the   way  out  from  I 

Cairo.      Crossing  the  large  bridge  over  the  Nile,  and  ^ 

following  the  tine  avenue  along  the  edge  of  the  river,  I 

passing  on  the  right  tlie  water-works  for    irrigation,  I 

the  court-house    and   the   Agricultural    College,    we  | 

came  to  the  entrance  gate  to  the  park  of  the   muse-  I 


I' 


I--         OUR  TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD 

um.  This  gate  was  ()peD(3d  to  us  at  S:HO  a.  m.,  and 
our  carriage  drove  riglit  up  to  tlie  door.  We  depos- 
ited our  umbrellas  in  the  entrance  room,  and  we 
then  began  our  wanderings  among  the  curious  and 
intensely  interesting  monuments  systematically  ar- 
ranged in  this  building  of  nearly  JOU  rooms.  This 
museum  furnishes  no  catalogue  in  English,  and  the 
monuments  are  mostly  nuirked  in  French.  But  hav- 
ing a  reliable  guide,  we  were  not  wholly  dependent 
on  the  French  catalogue.  We  saw  halls  crowded 
with  fine  statues,  beautiful  sarcophagi,  cases  of  val- 
uable jewelry,  funeral  scarabs,  mummies  of  animals, 
men,  women  and  children,  and  many  other  things 
too  numerous  to  mention.  We  examined  the  Book 
of  the  Dead,  written  on  papyrus,  and  measured  the 
hand  of  a  statue  of  Rameses  II.,  and  found  it  twenty 
inches  across  the  back.  We  saw  on  the  wall  a  paint- 
ing representing  a  number  of  geese,  which  some 
scholars  think  is  probably  tiie  oldest  painting  in  the 
world,  carrying  us  back  some  4,0(X)  years.  These 
geese  are  so  perfect  in  their  outline  and  coloring  that 
they  would  do  credit  to  any  modern  book  on  natural 
history.  We  also  saw  a  curiously-constructed 
mirror  of  modern  invention,  which  presented  twenty- 
one  distinct  inuiges  of  ourselves  as  we  stood  before 
it,  showing  every  part  of  the  body.  But  there  was 
one  room  which  we  were  especially  desirous  of  en- 
tering, and  that  was  "The  Hall  of  the  Royal  Mum- 
mies." 

It  was  in    1881    when   that  remarkable   discovery 
was  made  of  some  thirty- six    mummies  of  kings, 


f 


AMONG    THE    ROYAL  MUMMIES  128 

queens,  princos,i)riii(;((S8('8  nnd  high  ])riestsat  Deir  el 
Bahari  near  the  ruins  of  ancient  Thebes,  on  the  Nile 
in  Upper  Egypt,    and   which   so  suddenly   sent   the 
scientific  world  inio  a   fever  of  excitement.     These 
mummies  are  now  to  be  seen  nicely  arranged  in  this 
Royal  Hall,  and  the  interminable  line  of  tourists  is 
passing  by  looking  into  their  faces.   The  first  one  on 
whom  we  gazed    was  Rameses  II.,  the  real   Pharaoh 
who  oppressed  Israel.     His  face  is  long  and   slim, 
with  prominent  cheekbones,  small  eyes,  arched  nose, 
thick  lips, and  a  few  locks  of  hair  on  the  head.     The 
body  is  draped  in  linen  cloth,  called  mummy  cloth. 
Next  to  him   lies  his  father,   Seti  I.,   the   Pharaoh 
who  began  the  oppression,  and  whose  daughter  found 
Moses  in   the  ark  of  bulrushes,   and  adopted  him. 
Then  came  Thotmes  III.,  Thotmes  II.,  Rameses  III., 
and  six  other  royal  mummies   lying  close   together, 
the  skin  of  the  first  two  named  being   quite   black. 
After  passing  the   kings,  queens,   princes  and  prin- 
cesses,   we   came   to  the   high   priests.     The  richly 
decorated  lids  of   the    colHns  are  laid  on   one  side. 
Many  of  the  mummies  are  entirely  unrolled,  showing 
the  body  slightly  draped,  with    the  head,  hands  and 
feet    uncovered,  while  others  retain  all  the  covering 
in  which  they  were  laid  away  centuries   ugo.     Some 
of  them  are  so  well  preserved  that  even   the  charac- 
teristic traits  of  the   features  are  visible.     It  is  a 
significant    fact    that    the    body    of    the    Pharaoh 
who   led  the  Egyptians   in    pursuit   of  the  depart- 
ing Israelites,  is  not  found  among  this  or  any  other 
collection.     Was  he  drowned  in  the  lied  Sea? 


124         OUR  TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD 

We  lingered  a  long  time  in  this  hall;  and  as  we 
stood  before  this  array  of  niunimied  royalty,  and 
looked  on  the  very  forms  and  features  of  men  and 
women  who  conversed  with  Moses,  saw  the  children 
of  Israel  bending  their  backs  under  the  increasing 
burdens,  and  whose  words  are  recorded  for  our  in- 
struction, we  seemed  to  see  the  ancient  peoples  and 
monuments  of  Egypt  rising  up  as  living  witnesses  to 
the  historical  correctness  and  divine  origin  of  the 
holy  Scriptures.  The  people  who  painted  these  pic- 
tures, chiseled  these  statues,  built  these  pyramids, 
wrote  their  historj'  on  these  monuments,  and  pre- 
pared these  mummies,  were  not  savages,  slightly  re- 
moved from  the  brute  creation  in  the  Darwinian 
l)rocess  of  evolution.  If  this  so-called  process  of 
evolution  has  not  been  discernible  since  these  Egyp- 
tians  lived  and  taught  sciences  and  practiced  arts 
nearly  5,000  years  ago,  which  the  world  has  Jiot 
been  able  to  restore,  how  long  would  it  require  to 
evolve  a  perfect  man  out  of  a  moneron  or  a  tadpole? 
It  would  necessitate  the  existence  of  man  on  the 
earth  ages  before  it,  according  to  astronomy,  ceased 
to  be  a  red-hot  ball!  Verily,  such  a  process  of  evo- 
lution begins  and  ends  in  the  human  brain  only. 


LETTER    XXI. 

AMONG   THE    M08QUK8   AND   BAZAARS. 

Before  leaving  Cairo  we  spent  one  day  visiting  the 
principal  mosques,  bazaars,  and  other  objects  of  in- 
terest in  the  city.  On  this  day  we  dispensed  with 
tlie  carriage  and  regular  guide,  and  had  a  rich  ex- 
perience with  the  Egyptian  donkey-riding  and  donkey 
boys  We  made  this  change  for  two  reasons:  first, 
we  wanted  the  experience  of  donkey-riding,  and, 
secondly,  we  could  go  on  these  animals  among  the 
bazaars  and  through  the  out-of-the-way  places  where 
a  carriage  could  not  take  us.  These  boys  are  a  curi- 
osity, and  are  an  interesting  study  for  the  tourist. 
Most  of  them  can  speak  a  few  words  of  Englisli, 
French  and  German,  and  as  they  are  thoroughly 
acquainted  with  the  city,  they  make  tolerable  guides. 
Both  the  donkeys  and  their  drivers  understand  their 
business.  The  donkeys  are  the  street  cars  and  ele- 
vated railways  of  Cairo;  and  the  great  body  of  the 
people,  of  all  classes,  who  ride  at  all,  use  them 
freely.     There  are  no  strikes  on  these  lines. 

When  our  outfit  presented  itself  before  our  hotel, 
we  hesitated  to  mount;  for  in  the  first  place,  the 
little  creatures  did  not  seem  large  enough  to  carry 
the  weight;  and  thgn   we  wondered  how  we  could 

125 


126  OUR   TOUR   AROUND    THE    WORLD 

ride  on  them  without,  tumbling  off.    But  the  saddles 
were  P:uropean  and  well  secured,  and  once  on  them, 
we  were  delighted  with  the  easy  manner  in    which 
we  were  carried  along      The  hair  on   the   body  and 
limbs  of  these  animals  was  cut  into  fancy  patterns 
reminding  us  of  the  hieroglyphics  on  the  monuments.' 
Their    names    were,    respectively,      Ginger,    Flying 
Dutchman  and  Yankee  Doodle,    Mrs   T.  was  honored 
with  the  Flying  Dutchman,  which   more  than   once 
got  her  into  trouble.     Once   he  refused  to  climb   a 
night  of   steps  in  our  path,  and    the  boys  said,  "Be 
quiet,  hidy;   we'll  help  up,"  and  four  of  them  seized 
a  leg  each   and  carried  up  donkey   and  all!     I   have 
been  asked  what  I  did  with  my  feet.     I  prefer  leav- 
ing such  details  to  be  filled  in  by  the  imagination  of 
our  readers. 

VV^e  first  visited  the  Citadel,  which   is  built  on  the 
ilank  of  a  hill  overlooking  the  city.   The  Citadel  was 
erected  in  A.  D.  11(56,  by  Saladin,  and  the  stone  for 
its  walls  and  buildings  was  mainly  brought  from  the 
small  pyramid  at  Gizeh.   Within  the  walls  are  many 
objects  of  interest.  The  pahice,  built  by  Mohammed 
Ali,  is  occupied  by   British  officers,  and  it  contains 
a  number  of  fine  rooms.  Our  entrance  was  by  a  mas- 
sive arched  gateway  and  thence  along  a  winding  path 
to  the  highest  part  of  the  Citadel.      It  was  in  this 
road  the  slaughter  of  the  Mamelukes  took   place  in 
1811.     We  saw  the  track  left  by  the  horse  on  which 
the  only  survivor  made  his  escape   by   spurring    his 
nobl(!  animal  over  the  batllemonti  It  has  bpen  chis- 
eled in  a  large  rock  on  the  top  of  the  present   wall, 


i 


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AMONG  THE  MOSQUES  AND  BAZAARS  127 

and  appears  quite  fresh.  Near  here  is  Joseph's  well, 
with  which,  contrary  to  the  opinion  of  many,  the 
Joseph  of  Scripture  evidently  had  nothing  to  do.  It 
took  its  name  from  Saladin,  whose  Arabic  name  was 
Jusup,  and  it  was  discovered  during  the  building  of 
the  Citadel.  It  is  estimated  to  be  295  feet  deep, 
its  bottom  is  thought  to  be  on  a  level  with  the  Nile 
and  it  is  descended  by  a  stairway.  From  the  Cita- 
del a  tine  view  is  obtained  of  the  city  and  surround- 
ing country. 

There  are  more  than  800  mosques  in  Cairo,  and 
two  of  the  principal  ones  we  visited.  Tlie  Mosque  of 
Mohammed  Ali  stands  within  the  precincts  of  the 
Citadel,  and  it  is  built  after  the  plan  of  the  Mosqu>' 
of  St.  Sophia  at  Constantinople.  It  is  a  magnifi- 
cent structure.  The  great  court  is  paved  with  ala- 
baster and  is  surrounded  with  a  row  of  columns;  and 
the  whole  is  surmounted  by  a  dome  supported  by 
two  massive  pillars.  In  the  center  is  the  basin  for 
ablutions  before  prayer,  at  which  our  local  guide 
washed  his  hands  and  feet  before  accompanying  us 
through  the  building,  and  in  the  east  corner  is  the 
tomb  of  Mohammed  Ali.  The  Mosque  of  Sultan 
Hassan,  just  below  the  Citadel,  is  also  one  of  the 
finest  mosques  in  Cairo;  and  before  entering  either 
of  these  sacred  l)uildings,  the  visitor  is  required  to 
have  his  feet  cased  in  slippers  provided  at  the  door. 
One  of  my  slippers  came  ort  while  treading  on  a  par- 
ticularly sacred  s])()t.  Tlie  attendant  smiled,  and 
made  haste  to  replace  it;  l)ut  not  b(»toie  I  had  made 
at  least  one  unholy  track.     We  next  wound  our  way 


I 

1 


\ 


128  OUR   TOUR   AROUND    THE    WORLD 

tlirough  the  narrow  afreets  iukI  ciirioiis'bazaars  of  old 
Cairo,  where  the  motley  Oriental  people  are  crowded 
together  like  bees  in  a  hive,  and  where  we  saw  many 
very  strange  and  interesting  things.  We  met  a 
funeral  procession,  the  coffin  being  carried  on  the 
shoulders  of  four  men. 

Cairo  has  a  population  of  some  400,000,  represent- 
ing nearly  every  nation  under  heaven,  especially  the 
Oriental  countries.  But  the  great  mass  of  the  peo- 
ple are  the  native  Egyptians,  with  over  20,000  Euro- 
peans. The  city  undoubtedly  presents  the  most  motley 
crowd  we  have  ever  seen, and  the  visitor  meets  with 
many  very  strange  things.  The  Oriental  people  m(jslly 
wear  very  loose  clothing,  which  is  frequently  aug- 
mented liy  a  long  flowing  robe.  It  looks  as  if  the 
whole  city  had  turned  out  in  bloomers  in  every  shade 
of  color.  The  rich  Aral)  rides  a  large  white  donkey 
whose  head  is  decked  with  bright  colored  tassels  and 
around  whose  neck  jingle  brass  and  bead  chains. 
The  rider  has  no  stirrups  and  he  swings  his  feet  back 
and  forth  as  if  he  were  keeping  time  to  the  movements 
of  the  donkey.  He  wears  white  stockings,  and  over 
these  a  pair  of  pointed  red  slippers  to  match  his  red 
turban.  The  women  wear  veils,  with  an  upright  gilt 
ornament  on  the  forehead  to  keep  the  veil  in  place. 
Water-carriers  are  on  the  streets  with  their  goat- 
skins full  of  water  slung  across  their  shoulders,  and 
the  constant  clang,clang,clang,of  their  brass  cups  is 
heard  everywhere.  Occasionally  a  carriage  in  which 
are  some  noted  persons  dashes  through  the  streets, 
and  before  it  are  runnning  two  gorgeously  dressed 


r 


AMONG  THE  MOSQUES  AND  BAZAARS  129 

iiHtives  with  long  sticks  in  their  handn  to  clear  the 
way  for  the  carriage.  And  so  the  strange  tide  of  liu- 
manity  in  this  great  city  ever  ebbs  and  flows. 

We  were  highly  satisfied  with   our   donkey-riding 
experience,  and  when  we  returned   to  our  hotel    we 
enjoyed  the  rest  all   the  more  in  consequence  of  it. 
We  were  also  pleased  with  our  hotel  accoinniodation. 
The  Conteret  Hotel  proved  to  be  a  nice,  quiet  place 
where  every  courtesy   was  shown  us.     We  were  al- 
ways received  at  the  breakfast  table  by  the  lady  in 
charge  with  a  hearty  honjour.     As  only  French  was 
spoken,  we  sometimes  had  a  little   innocent  amuse- 
ment at  the  expense  of  our  attendants.      Once  our 
lady  trotter  called  for  a  light,  and  she  was  furnished 
with  a  black   bottle  of  wine.     We   w<'re   not   mucli 
surprised  at  this  mistake,  for  the  first  and  last  thing 
for  which  most  Am(!ricans  call  when  in  Cairo  is  wine, 
or  something  stronger,    notwithstanding   their  tem- 
perance sentiments  and  habits  at   Jionio.     Their  ex- 
cuse is,  the  water  in  Cairo  is  bad.     The  trouble  with 
these  gentlemen  and  ladies  is  that  they  find  the  water 
bad  everywhere  they  go.     At  our  hotel  the  wine  bot- 
tle and  glass  were  always  sitting  at  our  plate   to   l)e 
used  without  extra  charge,  and   the   French   people 
who  sat  at  the  table  with    us   were  amazed  that   we 
did  not  touch  them.   Wo  happened  to  know,  however, 
that  the  Nile  water,  with  which  Cairo  is  supplied,  is 
quite  pure,  and,    with   a  lunq)  of   ice  in  it,  wonder- 
fully refreshing.      I  wish  further  to   place  on    r. cord 
at  this  point   the  fact  that  we   have  lived    in    m.-niy 
kinds  of  climate  and  have  traveled   entirely   nroiml 


-1 ^^B_J_ 


IBO  OUR   TOUR   AROUND   THE  WORLD 

t  lie  globe  without  finding  the  necessity  for  the  use 
of  strong  drink,  ^^ear  our  hotel  was  situated  the 
Egyptian  Mission  of  the  United  Presbyterian  Church 
of  America, wliich  1  liad  the  pleasure  of  visiting  and 
from  which  I  gathered  much  information  respecting 
the  excellent  work    being  done  by   this  mission. 

We  took  our  dei)urture  from  Cairo  for  Alexandria 
at  4:45  p.  m.,  June  28,  and  we  had  a  delightful  ride 
on  the  train  through  a  beautiful  c<juntry.  The  Nile 
had  commenced  its  annual  rise,  and  it  was  sending 
its  waters  along  the  smaller  canals  and  the  ditches 
right  out  into  the  heart  of  the  country.  The  grad- 
ual rise  and  overflow  of  the  Nile  is  a  glorious  sight, 
and  there  is  seldom  an  occurrence  in  Egypt  that 
causes  more  rejoicing  among  the  people;  for  on  this 
overflow  depends  the  suctcess  of  the   country. 

We  arrived  at  Alexandria  at  8  p.  M.,and  were  driven 
from  tlie  station  to  Abbat's  Grand  Hotel,  almost  in 
the  heart  of  the  city,  where  English  was  spoken. 


LETTER  XXII. 


PROM    EGVPT  TO    PALI^STINK. 


Our  stay  in  Alexnndrin  \\;;sMli()rt.     After  securing 
comfortable  rooms  in  our  Jiotel,  we   spent  tlie  even- 
ing walking  along  some  of  the  principal  streets  and 
through   some  of  the   beautiful  parks,  which   were 
brilliantly  lighted,  and  where  thousands  of  well-be- 
haved people,  representing  many  nationalities   and 
displaying  a  variety  of  costumes,  were  to  be  seen  till 
late  in  the  night,  promenading  or   sitting  at  tables 
in  the  open  air,  enjoying  light  refreshments.   Instead 
of  going  into  the  restaurants,  these  people  delight  in 
having  their  ice-cream,  lemonade,  cakes,  fruits,  etc., 
luMught  out  to  them,  where  they  take  ample  time  for 
disposing  of  the  good  things  undf-r  the  broad  canopy 
of  heaven.      There  is    something  about  this  free  and 
easy    outdoor  life  in  the  Egyptian  cities  that  seems 
l)oth  healthful  and  enjoyable.    We  went  into  a  French 
cafe  and  took  our  supi)er;  and  though  no  one  in  the 
plane  could  speak  English,  we  managed  to  get  what 
we  wanted,  and  then  rnturned  to  our  hotel   for  the 
inght. 

At  an  early  hour  ne.Kt  morning  we  breakfasted  in 
the  beautiful  open,  tile-paved  court  of  our  hotel, 
with  the  high  walls   above  us  and  trees,  shrubs  and 

131 


182 


OUR  TOUR  AROUND   THE   WORLD 


flowers  all  around  us.  Unless  espec^iully  ordered  and 
paid  for,  the  l)reakfaHt  in  these  hotela,or  '•coftee''  as 
it  is  called,  is  usually  plain,  consistinj^  of  culfee, 
bread,  butter,  jam,  and  one  kind  of  meat,  or  eggs. 
The  bread  of  Egy[)t  we  pronounced  first-class,  and 
the  loaves  are  about  the  same  size  and  shape  that 
thf^y  wen^  8,(XK)  years  ago;  being  about  15  inches 
long,  i'J  inches  in  circumference  in  the  middle  and 
tapering  to  a  point  at  both  ends.  In  the  Gizeh  INFu- 
seum  we  saw  ancient  Egyi)tian  bake-ovens  contain- 
ing moulds  for  loaves  of  this  sha])e.  After  breakfast, 
our  carriage  being  ready,  we  rode  out  to  see  the 
sights.  We  drove  first  to  Pompey's  Pillar,  erected 
at  the  connuenceinent  of  the  fourth  century,  A.  D., 
by  a  Roman  ])refect  of  that  name.  It  stands  on  a 
high  piece  of  ground,  probably  the  highest  site  in 
the  ancient  city,  and  near  to  an  old  Mohammedan 
cemetery.  The  elegant  siiaft  is  of  polished  red  gran- 
ite, and  the  total  height,  including  the  pedestal,  is 
about  100  feet.  It  is  plainly  seen  from  the  harbor. 
I  broke  olf  no  specimen  of  that  red  granite;  I  only 
furnished  the  hammer,  while  an  Arab  chipped  the 
specimens  It  was  hard  work,  and  had  1  not  seen 
abundant  evulence  that  other  tourists  had  been  guilty 
of  procuring  specimens  of  the  pillar,  I  would  not 
have  permitted  that  hammer  to  go  on  its  errand  of 
destruction.  The  two  other  obelisks,  called  "Cleo- 
patra's Needles,"  have  been  removed  from  Alexan- 
dria,one  to  the  Thames  Embankment,  London,and  the 
other  to  Central  l*ark,  New  York  CMty,  where  we  saw 
them  later  on  our  journey.   From  the  pillar  we  drove 


.i 


FROM    EGYPT   TO  PALESTINE 


188 


i 


around  the  city   looking  ut  the  principal  objects  of 
interest  till  noon,  when   we  took   our  depiirture   on 
the  steamship  Vesfa  of  the  Austrian  IJoyd   Line,  for 
Joppa,  [)y  way  of  Port  Said.     The  agents  of  Thomas 
Cook  &  Son  drove  us  to  tlie  wharf,  passed  us  through 
the  Custom  House  and  rowed   us  to  oui  boat,  which 
was  anchored  far  out  in  the  bay.   There  were  numer- 
ous boats  in   the  harbor,  which   presented  an  ani- 
mated scene.   The  city,  which  stands  on  a  flat  coast, 
soon  receded    from  our  si^iit,  and   on   rounding  the 
great  breakwaters  east  of  the  harbor,  which  are  com- 
posed of  artificial  blocks  weighing  twenty  tons  each, 
we  were  smoothly  sailing  on  the  Mediterranean  Sea. 
For  some  distance  along  the  coast  we  noticed  that 
the  sea  was  colored    by  the  water  of  the  Nile,  which 
gives  it  a  yellowish-green  tint.   Alexandria  has  280, 
800  inhabitants,  one-fourth  of  whom  are  Europeans, 
and  is  an   important  city,    which,   during  its  early 
history,  was  intimately  connected  with  the  develop- 
ment of  Christian  theology. 

At  five  o'clock  next  morning  we  anchored  in  the 
harbor,  directly  before  Port  Said.  Port  Said  is  sit- 
uated at  the  point  where  the  Suez  Canal  enters  the 
Mediterranean  Sea  and  to  the  canal  it  owes  its  ori- 
gin. It  has  21,000  inhabitants,  and  its  transit  trathc 
is  considerable.  We  went  ashore  in  one  of  the  nice 
little  Arab  boats  which  line  the  edge  of  the  harl)or, 
and  soon  saw  all  there  was  of  interest  in  the  place. 
It  is  noted  for  Arab  filth  and  European  wickedness. 
The  city  is  supplied  with  water  in  pipes  brought 
all  the  way  from  the  Sweetwater  Canal  at  Ismail ia. 


I 


184  OUR   TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD 

It  is  here  mainly  that  travelers  leave  the  great 
through  steamship  lines  to  visit  Palestine.  We  car- 
ried a  circular  letter  from  our  Consular  Agent  in 
Dunedin,  New  Zealand,  but  on  the  advice  of  Thomas 
Cook's  agents  we  also  procured  here  a  passport  with 
Turkish  visa,  and  for  this  important  document, 
written  in  Arabic,  which  we  were  never  asked  to 
8h<jw  during  all  our  journey,  we  paid  our  American 
representative  and  the  Egyptian  Government  $1 
each.  It  will  at  least  serve  us  in  America  as  a  curi- 
osity. 

At  0:30  p.  M.  we  left  the  Port  for  Joppa.     Before  , 

sailing,  the  niece  of  the  ex-Khedive  took  passage  by  ' 

our  boat,  and  she  put  on  all  the  airs  of  a  queen. 
Her   stateroom  was  opposite  ours,  with   only  a  nar-  ' 

row  passage  between,  and  when  she  drew  the  curtain 
of  her  door  to  one  side,  she  was  seen  stretched  at 
full  length  on  the  couch,  smoking  a  cigarette  1  We 
also  saw  in  Cairo  a  number  of  Egyptian  girls  smok-  ' 

ing  cigarettes. 

The  voyage  from  Port  Said  to  Joppa  was  made  in 
the  night,  and,  except  our  supper  on  board,  it  was  •<> 

devoid  of  special  interest.  We  had  sat  at  English, 
Indian,  French  and  Egyptian  tables,  and  now    we  ,' 

are  to  have  a  German  supper  on  a  boat  on  which 
only  German   is  spoken.     Well,  here  it  is  in   eleven  } 

courses:  I  Soup.  2.  Sardines  and  prunes.  8. 
Boiled  fish  and  sauce.  4.  Beefsteak,  greens  and  Irish 
potatoes.     5.   Veal  chops,  nicely   wrapped   in   white  ! 

tissue  paper.     6.    Chicken   and   lettuce.     7.  Cheese  ' 

and  bread.     8.  Iced  pudding.    9.  Cherries,  apricots. 


f«« 


I 


l' 


.-i 


r4^ 


FROM  EGYPT  TO  PALESTINE  185 

bananas  and  muskmelon.  10.  Coffee,  ice-water  and 
wine.  11.  Smoking.  At  each  place  there  was  a 
stack  of  plates — ten  in  number — and  you  commenced 
with  the  top  one  and  kept  eating  till  you  got  to  the 
bottom.  I  do  not  mean  that  you  eat  the  plates;  but 
that  you  use  a  single  plate  for  each  course  of  food. 
I  also  include  the  smoking  in  the  bill  of  fare,  for 
with  the  men  it  seemed  to  be  a  part  of  the  regular 
courses.  They  smoked  their  cigars  over  the  table, 
as  the  proper  thing  to  do,  asking  no  questions  for — I 
was  about  to  say,  "for  conscience'  sake,"  but  I  am 
afraid  the  fire  of  the  cigar  has  so  seared  their  con- 
sciences that  this  faculty  is  not  consulted  in  the  mat- 
ter. We  sacrificed  what  little  German  etiquette  we 
possessed,  and  retired  before  this  course  was  iinished. 
After  a  pleasant  night's  rest,  we  arose  early  next 
morning  to  have  our  first  view  of  the  Holy  Land. 


LETTER  XXni. 

LANDING   AT    JOPPA. 

To  one  who  has  had  a  strong  desire,  from  youth 
up,  to  visit  the  scenes  of  Christ  and  the  Apostles, 
and  is  on  the  eve,  for  tlie  first  time,  of  satisfying 
this  desire,  the  approach  to  the  Holy  Land  creates 
within  him  an  interest  akin  to  excitement  He  ex- 
periences the  strange  sensation  of  gazing  upon  a  land 
sacred  above  all  other  places,  and,  in  many  respects, 
unlike  any  other  land. 

Our  approach  was  on  a  beautiful  Sunday  morning 
in  June.  We  arose  with  the  sun  and  went  on  the 
deck  of  our  German  boat  to  catch  the  first  glimpse  of 
Canaan's  shores.  The  first  object  we  could  make 
out  was  Gaza,  far  south  of  us,  toward  which  the 
eunuch  was  driving  in  his  chariot  from  Jerusalem, 
when  he  was  baptized  by  Philip.  A  little  later  the 
bluisii  heights  of  the  Judean  mountains  inthedis- 
tancs  the  yellow  JMediterranean  shore,  and  finally 
Jnppa,  rising  in  terraces  from  the  water's  edge,  like 
a  fortress  (.n  the  slope  of  a  hill,  with  trees  dotting 
the  shore  at  the  southern  end,  came  into  view.  The 
English  school  for  girls,  and  some  other  European 
t>iyl<lings  on  toi)  of  the  hill,  showed  to  good  advan- 
tage, presenting  a  pleasing  contrast  with   their  gen- 

liiii 


i 
i 


LANDING    AT    JOPPA  1H7 

era   surroundings.  The  Ronmn  Catholic  Cliurch  alno 
ocoupieB  a  conspicuous  position  on  a  terrace  near  the 
sea;  and,  as  our  bcjat  was  dropping  anchor  at  S:Jiu, 
the   bell  was  ringing  a  merry  call  to  its  \vorshi[)ers. 
There  is  no  good  harbor  at  Joppa,  and  so  all   the 
steamers  have  to  anchor  more  than  half  a  mile  from 
the  land,  and  if  tlie  weather  is  stormy,  landing  here 
is  impossible,  and  the  passengers  are  taken  right  on 
to  Haifa  or  iJeyrout.     Indeed,  landing  here  is  never 
very  pleasant,    nearly    always    lieing  attended    with 
some  danger   and  much    noise  and    confusion.     Tlie 
steamer  is  quickly  surrounded  with  Arab   row!)  mts, 
whose   occupants   clamor   for   passengers  and    bag- 
gage, while  the  rocking  and  bobbing  of  all  the  boats 
by  the  side  of  the  vessel  cause  a  timid  person  to  hes- 
itate in  making  the  eti'ort  to  get  into  one  of  them. 
As   we    were  traveling   under  the    arrangement    of 
Thomas  Cook  ife  Son,  we   felt  that  we  were   in   good 
hands.   They  have  a  number  of  splendid  boats,  built 
specially  for  their   tourists'  service   on  this   harbor, 
and  they  are  skillfully  maimed  by  a  uniformed  crew. 
We  saw  their   boat,    Hying  a   red   Hag  bearing  th«' 
names  of   these  popular  agents,  tako  the  lead  in  the 
spirited  race  for   our  ship,  and  it  was  Hrst  to   reach 
us.   The  men  immediately  catne  on  board,  and   witu 
an  ease  born   of  coolness  and  experience,  placed    us 
and  our  baggage  in  their   boat,  and   started  on    the 
return  journey.     Gaze  ife  Sons  also   sent  out   a  boat 
and  took  otl  two  English  ladies,  who   were  on  their 
way  to  Hebron  to  engag**  in  missionary  work. 
/  Between  us  and  the  shore  were  many  rocks,  i)artly 


i 


J'JiS  OUR   TOUR   AROUND    THE  WORLD 

Jiicklen  beneath  tiie  water,  and  among  these  we  had 
to  onrefiilJy  steer  our  way.  Boats  are  sometimes 
capsized  or  broken  on  these  rocks,  and  scores  of  peo- 
ple, mainly  pilgrims,  have  been  drowned  here. 
Finiilly  we  came  to  an  opening  only  a  few  feet  wide 
between  two  rocks,  and  our  helmsman,  watching  his 
oi)portunity,  allowed  his  boat  to  be  lifted  on  the 
crest  of  a  large  wave  while  he  shot  it  like  an  arrow 
througli  the  passage,  and  we  were  safe. 

We  were  passed  through  the  Custom  House  with- 
out the  Turkish  ofKcials  examining  any  of  our  bag- 
gage. We  walked  a  few  paces  to  a  street,  where  we 
found  a  carriage  in  waiting  for  us,  and  a  five  min- 
utes' drive  brought  us  to  the  Jerusalem  Hotel. 

On  landing  in  Joppa,  we  were  in  the  care  of  Thomas 
Cook  &  Son  during  a  specified  term  in  Palestine,and 
WB  found  their  arrangements  admirable  in  every  re- 
spect.    Their  management  is  simple,  furnishes   the 
traveler  with  every  needed  comfort,  and  saves  him 
much  time,  labor  and  worry.    You  specify  the  num- 
ber of  days  you  wish  to  spend  in   the   country,   and 
the  places  in  a  general    way  you   wish   to  visit,   and 
then  purchase  a  ticket  covering  all  expenses,   except 
such  h<dhshuh  as  you  may  desire  to  give  to  servants 
and  others  for  special  services  rendered.  The  agents 
supply   the  rest.     They  land  you   from  the   steamer 
and  embark  you  at  the  expiration  of  your  term,   se- 
curing your  berths,  and  putting  you   into  the    most 
comfortable    quarters  to   be  had  on    board.     They 
pass  you    through  the  Custom   Houses  without  any 
trouble.  They  furnish  competent  dragomans   horses, 


\ 


LANDING   AT  JOPPA  1J39 

carriages,  muleteers,   tents,   servants,   hotel  acconi- 
modation,  Turkish  soldiers  and  Arab  sheikhs,  as  es- 
corts, when  needed,  pay  all  entrance  fees  to  sacred 
places,  and    take  charge  of  any  money  or  valuables 
you  do  not  wish  to  carry  constantly  on  your  person. 
Everything  is  first-class  throughout.     In  short,  you 
do  nothing  but  ride  in  the  carriage   or  saddle,  listen 
to  the  cut-and-dried  speeches  of  your  guide,  lie  on 
your  back  in    the  shade  of  the  trees,  eat,  sleep,  read 
books  and    meditate  on   the  interesting  things   you 
have  seen.     Cook's  tours  in  Palestine  and  elsewhere 
are  of  two  kinds— in  large  parties,  or  you  may  pur- 
chase individual  tickets  and  select  your  own  party,or 
go  alone.    The  latter  is  more  expensive.     Neverthe- 
less, we  were  selfish  enough  to  want  a    party  of  only 
three,  and  thus  we  could  select  our  own  route,   the 
time  to  be  spent  at  any  one   place,  etc.     We  like  in- 
dependence. 

The  Jerusalem  Hotel  is  a  pleasant  place  to  stop. 
The  proprietor,  Mr.  E.  Hardegg,  is  tlie  American 
Vice-Consul,  and  he  furnishes  a  first-class  table.  In 
the  front  of  the  building  is  a  group  of  twelve  rooms, 
which  are  named  after  the  twelve  tribes  of  Israel! 
Judah  was  assigned  to  us  during  our  stay  in  Joppa. 


LETTER  XXIV. 

IN  JOPPA. 


The  present  name  of  Joppa   is  Jaffa.     It  is  also 
^jailed  Yaffa.     It  has  a  long  and  interesting  history, 
some  ancient   geograpliers  afiirming  that  a  city  ex- 
isted iiere  before  thn  Flood.   In  Joshua  xix.  4(3,  it  is 
called  Japho,  which   the  Hebrews  translated'  "the 
beautiful."     Anciently  it  was   a  Phenician  colony, 
in  the  land  of  the   Philistines.     When   the  division 
of  the  land  was  made  under    Joshua,    it  was  in  the 
boundaries  of  Dan.     It  was  to  Joppa  where  Hiram, 
King  of  Tyre,    brought  cedar  and   pine-wood    from 
Lebanon  in  "floats  by  sea,"  for  the  building  of  Solo- 
mon's  Temple,  whence  it  was  carried  up  to  Jerusa- 
lem by  the  road  where  it  now  exists.     The  materials 
for  the  rebuilding   of  the  temple  under  Zerubbabel, 
were  also  brought  to  Joppa   from   Lebanon.     It  was 
at  Joppa  Jonah  took  passage  for  Tarshish  when  flee- 
ing "from  the  presence  of  the  Lord."     It   was  hen- 
Peter  raised  Dorcas  to  life,  whose  "good   works  an,! 
almsdeeds"  made  her  the  object  of  the  widows'  love, 
gave  her   wonderful  influence  in  the  town,  and  sent 
her  name  down  through   the  ages  to  adorn  and   in- 
spire the  benevolent  societies  in  our  churches  all  over 

140 


' 


IN   JOPPA  141 

the  civilized  world;  and  it  was  here  that  Peter  saw 
the  remarkable  vision  which  convinced  him  that  the 
distinction  between  Jew  and  Gentile  had  been  abol- 
ished, and  henceforth  the  gospel  wan  to  be  preached 
to  every  creature — that  God  is  no  re8])ecter  of  per- 
sons, but  in  every  nation,  he  that  fearetli  him  and 
worketh  righteousness,  is  accepted  of  him. 

Since  our  Saviour's  day,  Joppa  has  had  its  timos 
of  prosperity  and  adversity;  several  times  it  iias 
been  destroyed,  and  rebuilt,  and  over  it  and  around 
it  have  swept  many  destructive  military  storms 
Jop])a  as  it  now  is,  is  indeed  beautiful,  if  viewed 
from  the  sea;  but  when  you  enter  it,  there  a[)pears 
almost  everything  but  the  beautiful  The  rod;  on 
whicli  much  of  it  stands  is  IK)  feet  high.  Its  houses 
are  nuunly  built  of  tutfstone,  llat-roofed,  crowded  s<) 
close  together  that  they  appear  almost  like  one  mass 
of  buildings,  and  the  streets  are  narrow,  winding, 
and  exceedingly  dirty.  Having  gone  tiirough  one 
of  these  filthy  lanes,  I  thought  Mrs.  T.  should  not 
lose  so  rich  an  experience,  and  so  she  accompanied 
me  on  a  subsequent  occasion.  She  suggested  a  l)ot- 
tle  of  perfumery  for  our  next  walk.  It  is  no  wonder 
that  many  natives  here  die  of  fever  every  suunn«'r. 
On  one  street  in  the  new  part  of  the  town  a  few  busi- 
ness houses  have  Ijeen  erected  of  stone  and  brick  on 
the  European  plan,  which  present  a  respectable  and 
business-like  appearance.  The  bazaars  are  small, 
and  usually  [)resent  a  motley  throng  of  purchasers, 
the  natives  of  the  district  largely  predominating. 
We  saw  huge  piles  of  melons  on   the  streets,    many 


142 


OUR   TOUR   AROUND   THE   WORLD 


i 


ot  them  as  Jarge  as  a  strong  man  could  carrv,  and 
without  exception  the  most  delicious  we  have  ever 
tasted.  These  melons  are  grown  in  great  abundance 
on  the  1  lam  of  Hlmvou  ar<,und  Joppn.  Some  of  th^ 
natives  were  roasting  small  ears  of  green  corn  over  a 
tew  coals  on  the  street,  and  selling  them  at  about  a 
cent  ench. 

The  walls  ot  the  town  have  disappeared,  and  new 
and  i.leasant-looking  suburbs  have  sprung  up      O,,*. 
ot  these  con.prises  a  (ierman  Colony  of  the  religious 
sHct  known  as  the  -Temple,"  or   "Friends  of  Jeru- 
salem.      They  nund,er  about  820,  possess  a  scho<,l 
^»<     hos,),tal,   and  engage   in   trade  and  commerce, 
nil  further  out  toward  the  northeast  there  is  an- 
other colony  of  these  people,  numbering  about  '>70 
souls.     About  15,a)0  pilgrims  land  here  annually  on 
tlieir    way  to  Jerusalem,  and   to  these  Jo])pa   owes 
"luch  ot  Its  present  importance.   Its  expc.rtsare  con- 
Hiderab  e,  and  consist  of  soap,  Indian  corn,  oranges 
and  other  fruits,  melons  and  wine  of  Sharon    The 
population  is  estimated  at   28,000,  of  whom  12  OW) 
are  Mohammedans,  0,000  Christians  and  5,000  Jews 
The  Bedouin  Arabs  bring  into  the  town  much  wheat 
on  the  backs  of  camels  and  donkeys.     Wc  saw   one 
o    these  dusky  "sons  of  the  desert"  driving  through 
th.   streets  twenty-five  camels,  all  tied  together  and 
walking  ,n  single  tile  about  ten  feet  apart,  with  high 
heads,    SNvn.ging    gait  and   independent   airs      The 
ornnge  gr..ves  in  and  almut  Joppn  are  extensive,  and 
ti-'  oranoes  ,,ro  large,  seedless  and  h.scious.    Lemons 
pomegranates  and   other  fruits  are  also  extensively 


I 


IN    JOPPA 


I4:i 


Srowii  liere.  Indeed,  the  scene  for  miles  around  is 
ojie  of  luxuriant  beauty;  and  many  of  the  groves  and 
orchards  are  enclosed  with  impenetrable  prickly  cac- 
tus hedges.  There  are  four  hotels  in  the  town  and 
a  number  of  hospices. 

Soon  after  arriving  at  ourh(.tel  we  were  introduced 
to  our  dragoman,  Abraham  Lyons,  an  Austrian,  who 
clainis  to  speak  eight   languages.     He  s])eaks   good 
English,  so  far  as  his  vocabulary  goes,      Under  his 
care  we  entered    upon  our  work   immediately.      We 
were  first  driven    to  the  traditional  house  of  Simon 
the  tanner,  where    Peter  lodged  and  saw   the  vision. 
It  is  an  old,  dilapidated-looking  stone  house,  with  a 
stairway  on  the  outside,  leading  to  the  Hat  roof.   At 
the  foot  of  the  stairway  is  a  beautiful  fig  tree,  and  a 
well  from  which   you   may  take  a  cool   draught   of 
water;  and  on  an   adjoining  roof  is  a  small  light- 
house.    It  is  "by  the  seaside,"  and  commands  a  fine 
view.     The   keeper  of  the   i)Iace,  who  takes   in   the 
pennies  from  the  sight-seers, appears  to  be  in  keeping 
with  the  shabby   building;  and  one  of  the  things  to 
be  remembered  is    the  fact  that  the  jdace  is  infested 
with  millions  of  fieas.     Peter  is  not  the  only  visitor 
to  the  spot  who  has  had  visions  of  "creeping  things'' 
while  trying  to  sleep.      We  saw  an  old   tannery  near 
by,  and  while  we  do   not   believe   this  house   is   the 
identical  house  of  Simon,  we  think  it  probable  that 
his  house  was  not  unlike  this  one,  and  that  it  could 
not  have  l)een  far  away. 

This  IxMog  Sunday,    we   next   attended    Episcopal 
Church  service  at  II  a.  m.       The  place  was  near  our 


!l 


T 


lU 


OUK  TOUK  AROUND  THE  WORLD 


liotel,  and  we  pussed  romid  what  appeared  to  be  a 
private  dwelling  and  entered  a  back  room  about 
twenty  feet  square,  with  two  doors,  two  small 
windows,  plain  seats,  and  a  few  neat  Scripture 
mottoes  on  the  wall.  The  preacher  read  for  his 
lesson  the  account  of  Peter's  visit  to  Jonpa  and 
his  raising  Dorcas  to  life,  and  read  a  short  -ermon 
ill  English,  his  wife  presiding  at  the  small  organ. 
There  were  present  two  men,  two  women,  two  boys, 
the  preacher  and  his  wife,  two  of  us  and  our  drago- 
man, eleven  in  all  The  Scripture  narratives  seemed 
to  take  a  living  form  when  read  on  the  ground  around 
which  the  scenes  dHscribed  transpired.  A  represent- 
ative  of  this  mission  was  soliciting  money  with 
which  to  erect  a  church  building.  We  contributed 
our  mite;  but  we  are  of  the  (.pinion  that  the  preacher 
in  cimrge  will  nut  convert  Joppa  very  soon. 

After  having  our  dinner  and  taking  a  short  rest, 
our  carriage  called  at  the  hotel  to  take  us  on  our 
journey  towards  Jerusalem. 


LETTER  XXV. 

GOING  UP  TO  JERUSALEM. 

''And  after  those  dHys  we  took  up  our  carrijigefl, 
and  went  up  to  Jerusalem."  TJiis  is  what  Luke  says 
in  Acts  xxi.  15  respecting  Paul's  tinal  visit  to  the 
Holy  City.  But  the  apostle  and  his  companions 
went  up  from  Cacsarea;  we  went  up  from  Jnp()}i, 
farther  south  on  the  same  seacoast.  Tiiey  "took  up" 
their  "'carriages;"  our  carriage  took  us  up.  Their 
carriages  consisted  in  their  light  Oriental  hand-hag- 
gage;  our  carriage  was  a  nice  two-horse  vehicle,  with 
a  top  and  movable  side-curtains,  so  as  to  protect  us 
from  the  sun  and  at  the  same  time  alTord  a  line 
view  of  our  surroundings.  We  all  probably  went  up 
the  last  part  of  the  journey  by  the  same  road,  the 
road  which  was  trodden  by  the  feet  of  the  prophets, 
apostles  and  Jesus  himself;  tlie  roail  t)ver  which  the 
ark  of  God  was  })orne  in  triumph  to  Mount  Zion, 
and  the  road  wiiich,  in  later  times,  was  made  to  echo 
with  "the  tramp  of  Roman  legions  and  the  war-cry 
of  the  Crusaders. "  This  roa<l  has  licen  greatly  im- 
proved, and  is  now  a  good  carriage  roa<l  all  the  way 
from  Joppa  to  Jerusalem.  As  the  iron  horse  has  now 
entered  the  Holy  Land,  and  makes  one  trip  each 
way  daily   between    Joppa  and  Jerusalem,    Cook's 

145 


M<>  OITR  TolK  auoinu  thk  wokld 

JigHiitH  allowed  us  to  take  our  choice  between  the  two 
ways  of  going  up.  As  we  wished  to  see  as  n)uch  of 
the  country  as  we  could,  wedccided  to  go  hy  the  road 
and  return  by  rail. 

The  station  at  hxWti  is  in  the  northeastern  suburb 
of  the  town,  on  the  scasliore,  near  the  German    Col- 
ony. On  leaving  tlie  station,  the  train  niakesacurve 
to  the  northeast,  skirting  the  beautiful    orange  and 
lemon  plantations,  then  turning  in  a  southeastern 
<lirection,  passing  through    the  Plain  of  Hharon,  by 
Lydda,   and    Kamleli.    it   follows  the  depression  of 
U'ndi/  ,'l.  Sdirir  nixl    W'tKli/  el  Wad  (vailey  of  roses), 
till  it  reaches  the  slati«i!i  on   the   Plain  of  Rephaini 
on  the  south  of  Jerusalem,  lifteen  minutes  from  the 
Joppa  gate    The  carriage  road  leaves  Joppa  through 
the  Jerusalem  gate,  passing  through  the  southeastern 
sui)url)  of  the  town,  and   runs   parallel   to  the  rail- 
way, on  the  south  side,  till  Kariilnh  is  reached,  thir- 
tenii  an<l  one-half  miles  out ;  and  here   it  crosses  the 
railway,  and  taking  a  more  eastern  direction,  winds 
its   way  over   the  Judean    hills,  entering   Jerusalem 
from  the  northwest. 

At  5i  p.  M.  on  Sunday,  we  step|)ed  into  our  (car- 
riage in  front  of  the  J(M-usalem  JIoIhI,  our  dragoman 
taking  liis  seat  with  the  Ai'ab  driver,  ready  to  point 
out  tiu^  objects  of  interest  bv  the  wav,  and  we  were 
off  to  the  Holy  City,  forty-one  miles  distant  l)y  road 
an<l  lil'ty-foiir  hy  rail.  \\'<' drove  llirouglit  lie  crowded 
bazaars,  the  dragoman  shout  nig  to  the  cnrious  |)eo- 
ple  to  make  way  for  our  r;ii-ri,'i'j;i'  ''Who  .-ire  iliosf 
<lignilieil-looking  I'ellows  on  the  streets  in  hum  Mack 


I 


GOING  UP  TO  JERUSALEM  147 

robet  and  tall  black  hats,  much  like  the  AinericMn 
gentleman's  silkhat?"  ^^Those,"  said  the  dragoman, 
"are  Greek  priests.'* 

Passing  through 'the  new  suburbs,  we  enjoy  the 
drive  in  the  sliade  of  trws  and  admire  the  lol'ty  cuc- 
tus-hedges  and  extensive  or(5hards  and  «?tuden9  We 
saw  water-wlioola  everywhere,  turned  Ity  a  <lonkey 
or  camel,  lifting  the  water  from  tlic  wells  and  pour- 
ing it  into  the  ditches  by  wliich  the  land  is  irrigated. 
In  a  few  momentis  we  arrive  at  the  ruins  of  an  old 
mosque  at  the  left  of  the  road,  i^urrounded  by  syca- 
more and  cypress  trees,  and  in  the  wall  of  which  is 
a  fountain  of  cold  water.  This  is  pointed  out  as 
the  site  of  the  house  in  which  Peter  raised  Dorcas  to 
life.  Once  a  year  hundreds  of  superstitious  people 
assemble  here  and  hold  a  sort  of  religious  picnic  in 
commemoration  of  the  noted  event.  Soon  after  leav- 
ing this  fountain  we  entered  the  Scripture  Plain  of 
Sharon,  which  averages  nearly  ten  miles  wide,  and, 
beginning  a  short  distance  south  of  Joppa,  it  stretches 
northward  between  the  central  hills  and  the  Mediter- 
,^  ranean  Sea  to  Mt.    Carmel,  beyond   Crt^sarea,  a  dis- 

tance of  about  fifty  miles.  It  is  celebrated  in  the 
Scriptures  for  its  fertility,  l)eautiful  roses,  and  suit- 
ableness for  pasturage.  It  resembles  a  rich  western 
])rairie,  and  in  the  spring  it  produces  flowers  and 
'.i;rass  in  s^reat  profusion.  Although  our  visit  was  late 
in  the  season  for  Howers,  we  saw  some  that  reminded 
us  of  the  Rose  of  Sharon,  and  we  gathered  a  few  and 
|)ressod  them  in  onr  s-pf-rinieii  book.  The  plain  is 
also  extensively  cultivated,  and    in  proper    hands  is 


148  OUR  TOUR   AROUND  THE   WORLD 

capable  of  much  better  things.  We  soon  came  to  a 
watch-tower  rising  on  the  right.  It  is  the  first  of 
seventeen,  which  were  built  in  18(50,  at  irregular  in- 
tervals, to  guard  the  road  to  Jerusalem.  At  present 
they  are  only  partially  garrisoned. 

A  little  later  we  passed  on  the  left  the  mud  villagp 
of  Ret  Detjan,  or  Heth  Dagon,  of  Scripture  (house  ol" 
Dagon),  probably  the  site  of  one  of  the  houses  of 
Dagon,  the  Philistine  god. 

At  5:80  p.  M.  we  entered  Ramleh  and  i)ut  up  at 
the  Reinhardt  Hotel  for  the  night.  Mr.  Reinhardt 
is  a  German  who  has  lived  several  years  in  Ameri(!a, 
speaks  good  English  and  keeps  a  neat  hotel.  At  sun- 
set we  stood  on  top  of  the  Ramleh  Tower,  which  is 
reached  by  120  stei>s,  and  iuid  a  nnignifi<*ent  view. 
Luxuriant  orchards  spread  out  liel'ore  us,  and  to  the 
northeast  was  JiVdda,  now  called  Lmhl,  where  Peter 
raised  yKneas  from  his  sick  b«'d,  and  far  beyond  this 
was  Mount  Gerizim,  lifting  its  head  uj)  '2,KV.)  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea,  with  a  w'  ite  Mohammedan 
tomb  more  than  half-way  up  its  side.  Ramleh  is 
not  mentioned  in  the  Scriptures,  but  is  a  more  mod- 
ern town  of  some  importance,  having  a  p^tpulatioo 
of  8,000,  about  l,(KlOofwhom  are  (Ireek  Catholics. 
The  town  ])ossespes  so  soap  l'aet(>ries,C()nvents  and 
mosrpies.  The  tradition  that  Hamleh  (M)rrespondH 
with  the  Ariniathea  of  the  New  Testament  in  which 
lived  .Jose|)li  who  lai<l  .Icsus  in  his  own  new  tomb  at 
Jerusalem  is  without  historical  fmnxlat ion,  and  it 
probably  originr,t"d  in  t  In' t  hirtccnt  li  efiitury.  We 
found  the  air  here  after  sunset  del iirht fully  cool  and 
bracing. 


r 


GOING    UP*  TO  JEHU8ALEM  149 

Early  next  niorning  we  drove  out  to  see  Lydda, 
two  and  a  lialf  imUm  away.  It  was  a  delightful  ride. 
The  road  took  us  ''Htween  beautiful  and  extensive 
olive  groves  nod  pomegranate  trees,  large  melon  and 
tomato  patches,  and  tall,  impenetrable  cactus  hedges. 
We  drove  down  a  narrow  lane,  between  Hat-roofed 
houses,  turned  a  little  to  the  right,  and  alighted  in 
front  of  St.  George's  Church,  now  in  possession  of 
the  Greeks.  A  monk  opened  the  door  and  we  en- 
tered. We  smelt  the  sweet  incense  from  the  morning 
worship.  After  examining  the  main  part  of  the 
church,  we  took  lighted  candles  and  descended  a 
Might  of  steps  into  a  dark  room,  where  wo  were  shown 
the  traditional  tomb  of  St.  George,  the  patron  saint 
I  of   England.     It  is  about    three  feet   long.     In   the 

•  lanes  of  the  village  we   noticed  large   numbers  of 

earthen   water- jars   tor   sale,  and   near    the   road  a 

threshing-tloor  of  some  ten  acres  of  ground  covered 

with    wheat   and   straw,    whi(Oi    had    been    carried 

j  there  on  the    backs  of  camels  and    donkeys.     The 

camels  were  kneeling  to  have  their  loads   taken  oil', 
.^  and,  like  some  church   meml)ers,  whether   they  are 

being  load(Hl  or  unloaded,  they  are  continually  growl- 
ing in  a  most  piteous  way.    The  donkeys  carry  their 
burdens  in  silence;  and  the  load  they  usually  carry 
.  is  astonishing.     We  met  one  not  much  larger  than  a 

i  sheep  near  Lydda  on  whose  back  we  couiit«;d  twenty- 

I  live  two  and  three  gallon  earthen  jars,  and  on  to|)  of 

these  was  perched  a  big  Arab.     It  is  not  an  uncom- 
mon thing  to  see  these   aninnils  so  loaded    Jiat  you 
'  can  see  only  the  tip  ends  of  the  tail  and    nose  pr«)- 

^  truding,  while  their  little  legs  are  trembling  under 


150  OUR  TOUR  AROUND   THE    WORLD 

the  great  load.  Sometimes  they  completely  break 
down,  iiiid  then  they  are  beaten  tor  what  they  can 
not  do.  Our  dragoman  told  ua  of  an  American  lady 
in  his  charge  who  found  a  donkey  in  this  helpless 
condition,aiidslie  asked  him  to  intercede  for  thedumb 
animal.  The  only  reply  of  the  owner  was:  "What 
is  this  to  you?  If  I  kill  the  donkey,  it  is  mine." 
The  Arab  knows  no  mercy  for  his  beast.  Not  only 
the  dumb  animals  in  Palestine,  but  the  men,  women 
and  children,  are  great  burden-bearers.  This  is  par- 
ticularly noticeable  in  Jerusalem.  It  was  no  doubt 
this  general  burdening  of  man  and  beast  to  which 
Jesus  referred  when  he  said:  "Come  unto  me  all  ye 
that  labor  and  are  heavy  laden,  and  I  will  give  you 
r<'st,"  etc.  We  also  saw  along  the  road  through 
the  Plain  of  Sharon  nun)erous  small  heaps  of  stones, 
about  a  foot  high,  marking  the  })oundarie8  of  the 
land.  These  small,  loose  stones  could  be  easily  re- 
moved; and  hence  the  law  which  says:  "Thou  shalt 
net  remove  thy  neighbor's  landmark." 

We  returned  tt)  Uamleh  at  8  a.  m.  and  resumed 
our  journey  to  Jerusalem. 

We  crossed  the  railroad  near  the  station,  passed 
over  a  small  bridge,  and,  in  about  half  an  hour,  we 
descended  the  beautiful,  .vinding  road  into  the  Val- 
ley of  Ajalon,  probably  a  mile  and  a  half  wide  and 
several  miles  long,  and  running  in  a  northeast  and 
Hoathwest  direction.  It  was  here  that  Joshua  said: 
"Sun,  stand  thou  still  upon  Gibeon,  and  thou  moon 
in  the  Valley  of  Ajalon;"  and  Gibeon  was  directly 
in  front  of  us,  though  hid  by  the  top  of  an  interven- 


I 


GOING    VV   TO  .'KIM'^^AI  KM  l;")l 

ing  mountain.  We  gHtli(3r«Hl  mune  stonos  from  tlwj 
brook  tlmt  Hows  tiirougli  tlio  valley,  and  tlowcjrs 
from  the  Held,  and  i)aHsed  on  to  the  villages  of  Latrun 
and  AmwuH,  a  .short  (li.stiUK^e  apart  on  onr  left,  and 
near  the  eastern  edge  of  the  Valley  of  Ajalon. 
'  Ijatrun  means  rohlx^r,  and  a  mediiuval   legend   says 

this  plaee  was  the  home  of  tiie   penitent   thief.     It 

is  more  likely  to  he  the   present  home  of  /mpenitent 

thieves,  Amwus  is  hel  ieved  by  some  to  he  the  lOmmaus 

[  of   the  New  Testament,  hut  others,  with  better    rea- 

^  son,  think  it  too    far   from   Jerusalem  to  meet    the 

!  Scripture  recpiirement.     See  Luke  xxiv.   Ul. 

At  the  foot  of  the  hills  we  took   lunch    at  a  dirty 

Syrian   hotel,  called    lidh  el  Wmhi^  mctaning  gate  of 

I  the  valley.     We    wish(»d   we  could   have  disi)ensed 

{  with  our  noses  wiiile    trying  to  eat  and  rest.      From 

here  we  slowly  wnuiid  our  way  up  among  the  Judean 
hills,  till  we  reached  an  altitude  of  1,000  fe^'t  above 
the  level  of  thf!  Mcditerraix^an  Sea,  where  a  line  view 
to  the  west  suddenly  burst  upon  us — Ramleh,  th(< 
Plain  of  Sharon,  .ro[)pn,  and  the  Mn\  wen*  ail  visible. 
^  Half-way  u[)to  1  iiis  elevation  we  gnth-rc-d  ^ome  green 

pods  of  the  carob-trtfe,  evidently   the    ''husks''    with 
i  which  the   Prodigal    Son    ''would    fain    have    tilled" 

himself.  We  saw  in  this  vicinity  many  of  these 
trees  loaded  with  tli»>  green  fruit.  Passing  over  tlit* 
hill,  in  a  few  minutes  wt^  v.iwwi  to  Kirjath-jearim, 
where  the  ark  of  (rod  remained  for  twenty  years. 
It  is  a  vilhigi^  on  the  right,  close  to  the  rojul,  com- 
prising altout  loo  si^uare,  flat-roof»»d  stone  houses, 
surrounded  with  olive,  orange,  nuil berry,  pomegran- 


i 


152         OUR  TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD 

at.«   and  a  few  other  ti'HHs,  ami  built  on  the  side  of  a  | 

hill.     We  now  deHccmN'd  raj)i(lly  by  a  zig-zag  course  ' 

into  the  uj)|M'r  part  of  the  Valley  of  Sorek,  where 
tradition  has  |)lac('(l  the  eelehrated  conflict  between 
David  and  (Joliaih,  but  tiie  site  does  not  agree 
with  the  Scriptiiri'  narrative  of  the  event.  It  was 
somewhere  in  tliis  valley  Samson  visited  the  infa- 
mous Delilah,  who  was  the  occasion  of  his  destruc- 
tion. Here  is  Kuloniyeh,  a  nice  little  place  with 
orchards,  gardcuis  and  groves,  and  is  a  resting  place 
for  travellers.  A  short  distance  along  the  valley  to 
nur  right  is  Ai)i  Karltn,  a  fresh-looking  village,  with 
a  Catholic  church,  and  surrounded  by  beautifully 
terraced  hills  set  in  olive,  tig  and  other  fruit  tre(  s, 
and  is  the  traditional  birthplace  of  John  the  Ha]-- 
tist.  It  is  certainly  in  "the  hill  country"  of  Judea. 
To  our  left  was  ancient  Mizpeh,  a  high,  conical  hill 
crowned  by  a  moscpie    with  a  minaret,  of  which   we  i 

had  a  fine  view    before  descending   into  the  valley.  ' 

We  refreshed  ourselv«-s  in  a  cafe,  gathered  sonx^ 
"smooth  stones  out  of  the  brook,"  near  where  the 
bridge  spans  it,  in  memory  of   David's  victory   over  i 

(.foliath,  and  then  slowly  followed  the  winding  road 
up  the  hill  for  about  four  miles,  and  lo!  Jerusalem 
came  iu  sight 


'1 


LETTER  XXVI. 

IN   JERUSALEM. 

Our  experience  on  approacliing  .Jerusalem  was  un- 
like that  of  sonie  traveller.s.  We  siicd  no  tears  on 
sighting  tlie  Holy  City.  Our  eyes  were  too  busy  with 
interesting  seenes  to  l)e  dinuned  with  tears.  The 
saddest  tinie  to  us  was  on  taking  leave  of  the  city, 
when  its  walls,  domes  and  towers,  one  by  one,  gra«l- 
ually  faded  from  our  view,  probably  forever,  as  our 
train  moved  toward  .]o])pa. 

The  tirst  objects  we  saw  were  the  houses  compris- 
ing the  new    luiropean   suburl),  through   which    we 
passed  on    tiie  northwestern    side  of  the  old   city. 
J  Then  the  surrounding  hills  south  and   east  of  the 

city,  including  the  Mount  of  Olives,  and   finally  tiie 

^  walls  came  into  view.      At  5:80  p.    m.    we    reac^hed 

Howard's  Hotel,  a  magnificent  stone  building  just 
outside  the  Joi)pa  gate,  owned  by  a  wealthy  Arab, 
and  possessing  every   needed  convenience  and  com- 

'  fort.     Here  in  spacious  and  richly   furnished   rooms 

on  the  second  floor  we  made  our  headquarters  for 
seven  days.  At  sunset  we  went  on  to  the  Hat  r(  f 
of  the  hotel,  from  which  we  could  plainly  see  and 
readily  locate  almost  every  prominent  obje(;t  in  and 
about  the  city.  The  Valley  of  G-ihon,  with  its  ui)p(T 

^  163 


i;>i 


ol'H   TOUR   AROUND   THE   WORLD 


aiul  lower  pools,  overlooked  by  the  walls  of  our  hotel, 
the  Valley  of  Hiiuiom,  the  Mount  of  Olives,  Mount 
Scoi)us,  the  Joppa  Gate,  Tower  of  David,  Church  of 
tiic  Holy  Sepulchre,  Dome  of  the  Rock,  and  many 
other  objects  with  which  we  had  become  familiar 
by  reading,  were  in  plain  view.  A  short  walk  along 
David  Street,  as  the  night  closed  upon  us,  complb^ed 
(lur  day's  work,  and  we  retired  to  rest  with  a  strong 
ffM'ling  of  satisfaction  and  thankfulness  that  in  the 
providence  of  Uod  we  had  been  brought  thus  far  on 
our  long  journey.  Though  this  was  the  second  day 
of  July,  the  night  was  delightfully  cool,  and  we  slept 
under  blankets.  At  H  o'clock  next  morning  the  ther- 
mometer in  the  shade  registered  only  05  degrees. 
This  fact  shows  the  folly  of  the  notion  entertained 
by  most  people  that  Palestine  can  not  be  visited  dur- 
ing the  summer  season  without  great  discomfort  and 
oven  dang<'r. 

.Jerusalem  is  perched  on  limestone  hills,  2.589  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea,and  the  surrounding  coun- 
try mainly  consists  of  hills  on  hills,  mountains  on 
mountains,  rocky,  bare  and  dreary,  and  valleys  (called 
wiidicx)  running  in  every  direction  The  appearance 
(tf  tiie  city  is  Momewhat  peculiar,  and,  to  most  peo- 
ple, disappointing.  A  fast  walker  could  go  outside 
the  walls  and  walk  entirely  around  Jerusalem  in  an 
hour,  provided  too  many  dogs  and  l)eggars  are  not 
in  the  way;  and  yet,  owing  to  the  unevennes'^  ol  i\u) 
ground  in  some  places,  he  would  have  to  walk  much 
fjirtlier  tlian  the  actual  distance  on  a  level.  The 
walls  are  two  and  one-half  miles  in  circumference, 


1 


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•4 


IN   JERUSALEM  loo 

and  the  city, therefore, covers  only  about  two  hiiiulrHd 
and  nine  acres  of  ground.  Of  course,  this  estinnite 
does  not  include  the  new  Jerusalnni,  coniprisin^ 
mainly  the  European  suburb  on  the  northwosteni 
part  of  the  wall.  This  suburb  alone  in  now  a  consid- 
erable town,  and  in  it  are  located  the  Consulates  of 
Europe  and  America,  the  Russian  property  and  vari- 
ous other  important  buildings.  The  houses  in  the 
old  city  are  generally  two  stories  high,  are  strongly 
built  of  stone,  are  whitewashed  or  plastercKl  on  the 
outside  and  from  the  centre  of  many  of  tiiellnt  roofs 
rise  small  white  domes  of  stone,  reminding  one  of 
huge  inverted  teacups,  and  allowing  ample  room  to 
walk  all  around  these  domes  on  the  roof,  or  among 
them  when  more  than  one  dome  occui)ies  the  same 
roof,  which  is  sometimes  the  case.  N'iewed  from 
an  elevated  position  outside  the  walls,  the  city  ap- 
pears small,  decidedly  knobby,  and  the  houses  are 
thrown  together  in  such  a  compact  and  confus('<l  mass 
that  no  sign  of  a  street  can  be  seen.  The  monotony 
is  greatly  relieved  by  the  few  tall  domes,  towers  and 
minarets  scattered  over  the  city.  The  finest  view 
of  Jerusalem  is  obtained  from  the  Mount  of  Olives; 
and  seen  from  this  point  in  the  break  of  day  and  the 
rising  sun,  as  we  once  saw  it,  it  is  really  beautiful. 
The  walls  are  about  thirty-eight  feet  high,  have 
thirty-four  towers  on  them,  and  are  pierced  by  (>ight 
gates,  all  of  which  are  open  except  one.  Starting 
from  the  west  side  and  walking  entirely  around  the 
outside  of  the  walls,  leaving  the  city  on  your  right, 
you  pass  the  following  gates  in  the  order  named: 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


k 


A 


{./ 


A 


i 


1.0 


1.25 


|Z5 


fSf" 


2.2 


1.1     l.'^l^ 

U    111.6 


6" 


Vi 


7: 


'^  > 


O 


7 


/A 


Hiotographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


dh 


1 

I 


156  OUR  TOUR  AROUND   THE   WORLD 

Joppa  Gate,  New  Gate,  Damascus  Gate,  Herod's 
Gate,  St.  Stephen's  Gate,  Golden  G<ite  (now  walled 
up).  Dung  Gate  and  Zion  Gate.  Most  of  these  gates 
are  guardnd  day  and  night  byTiirkisli  sentinels,  and 
about  them  large  numbers  of  the  heterogeneous  peo-  I 

pie  congregate  to  talk,  loungj,  btg,  steal  and  trans-  « 

act  business.  There  is  one  notalde  exception.  Next 
to  the  last-named  gate  in  liie  above-named  list,  the 
name  of  which  is  rather  significant,  has  no  sentinel, 
and  even  the  beggar,    who  seems  to  have  a  certain  I 

degree  of  pleasure  in  wallowing  ir  a  limited  amount    - 
of  filth,  has  for  sufficient  reasons  forsaken  this  gate.  > 

With  some  difficulty  we  managed  to  pass  through  this  1 

i  i  gate  once,  and  it  is  hardly  necessary  to  inform  travel- 

I]  lers  that  once  will  be  sufficient.  1 

I  i  The  money-changers  are  numerous  about  the  Joppa  | 

I  i  Gate,  and  also  along  the  principal  streets;  and  jutig- 

ing  from   their  efforts  to  cheat  us  when  getting  a 
V  sovereign  turned  into  the  currency  of  the  country, 

they  have  not  improved  much  since  our  Saviour  drove 
them  out  of  the  temple.     We  felt  like  following  his 
;  (  example,  if  we  had  only  possessed  the  whip  of  cords 

i|  and  the  courage  to  use  it.     And  this  leads  me  to  say 

!;  that  nearly  every  kind  of  money  is  in  circulation  in 

I  this  country.     The  money  puzzle  was  great  enough 

in  Egypt,  but  it  is  worse  in  Palestine.  Your  best 
way  out  of  the  difficulty  is  to  get  your  money  changed 
at  the  banks  of  Cook  &  Son,  and  make  your  pay- 
ments and  gifts  through  your  dragoman.  It  is  also 
well  to  keep  one  eye  on  the  dragoman.  All  Ameri- 
cans who  visit  Palestine  are  thought  by  the   people 


] 


!    , 


i 


IN    JERUSALEM  157 

there  to  be  rich,  and  hence   tlie  sole  interest  of  the 
beggars  is  to   induce  the  traveller  to  empty  out  his 
pockets,    and,    having    seized    the    contents,    they 
straightway  proceed  to  pull  him  to  pieces,   preserv- 
ing the  bits  as  reminders  of  the  good  time  they  have 
had.     One  Arab  outside  the  walls  of  the  city,  away 
from  observation,  became  so  persistent  in   his  de- 
mands for  bakhshish  as  to  threaten   violence,  and   I 
had  to  beat  him  off  with  the  butt  end  of  my  umbrella. 
This  erroneous  notion  of  Americans  is  generated  and 
perpetuated  by  the  foolish   action  of  some  travellers 
who  sow  their  money  broadcast  among  the  i)e()ple  at 
the  expense  and   annoyance  of  their   less    fortunate 
brethren  who  follow  them.     Such   people   ought  to 
learn  a  lesson  from  the  mistake  of  a  preacher   in 
Egypt  during  our  visit  there.     On  leaving  Cairo   a 
half-dozen  Egyptian  girls  gathered   about  him  witli 
their  little  water  bottles  on  their  heads,  hoping  to 
accompany  him  and  sell  him  wat«r.     To  get  rid  of 
them,  as  he  thought,  he  stood   them  in   a  row   and 
supplied  them  liberally  with  bakhshish.     But  judgn 
of  his  surprise  when  this  act  was  immediately  noised 
abroad  and  his  half-dozen  became  several  times  that 
number,  who  followed  him  about  the  country  mak- 
ing his  life  a  burden.   Poor  manl    I  hope  he  reached 
home  in  safety,  a  wiser  if  not  a  better  man  in  con- 
sequence of  his  rich  experience  with  Egyptian  water 
girls.     Asa  rule   bakhshish  should  never  be  given, 
except  in  consideration  of  some  service  rendered. 

In  my  next  letter  I  hope  to  get  back  to  .Ferusalem 
and  teli  you  about  what  I  saw  on  the  inside  of  the 
walls. 


LETTER  XXVII. 

INSIDE    THE  WALLS. 

In  lookiDg  on  Jerusalem  as  it  now  stands,  it  is  well 
to  remember  that  we  are  not  looking  on  the  identical 
city  whic3h  David,  Solomon,  Nehemiah,  Harod,  Jesus, 
and  the  apostles  saw.  While  the  eternal  hills,  val- 
leys and  plains  surrounding  the  city  are  the  identical 
(ines  seen  hj  the  eyes  and  trodden  by  the  feet  of  the 
.Itiwish  patriarchs,  kings,  prophets,  apostles  and  first 
Christians,  the  city  itself,  from  the  Salem  of  Abra- 
ham's day  to  the  Jerusalem  of  the  present,  has  been 
B;  subjected  to  no  fewer  than  twenty-seven  sieges,  and 

undergone  many   changes.     Indeed,    there  are  here 
pi  eight  cities  piled  on  top  of  one   another.     It  is  true 

|!  that  in  Jerusalem  are  found  many  relics  of  the  former 

|p  cities;  and  when  we  couple  this  fact  with  the  addi- 

tional one,  namely,  that  the  customs,  costumes  and 
architecture  of  this  Oriental  people  remain  the  same 
from  age  to  age,  we  may  feel  a  satisfaction  in  the 
thought  that  the  Jerusalem  of  to-day,  on  which  we 
are  looking,  is  practically  the  Jerusalem  of  Solomon 
and  of  Jesus- 

With  this  thought  before  us,  let  us  enter  this  in- 
teresting city,  ahout  which  (sluHtor  so  many  sacred 
memories  and    hallowed   associations,  and  examine 

158 


I 


! 


INSIDE  THE  WALLS  l'"/.) 

its  streets,   bazaars,   principal  buildings  and   other 
curious  and  instructive  objects.     We  will  pass  in 
through  the  Joppa  gate,  close  to  the  tower  of  David, 
guarded  by  a  Turkish  sentinel   standing  erect  with 
gun  in  hand,  through  which  crowds  of  people,  cam- 
els and  donkeys  are  constantly  coming  and  going. 
We  do  not  pass  straight  through  the  wall  like  going 
through   an  ordinary  gate;  but  we  enter  a   square 
tower  built  into  the  wall,  turn  to  the  left  and   pass 
into  the  city.     It  is  like  entering  a  square  house  at 
the  frontdoor  and  passing  into  the  back  yard  through 
a  side  door  on  the  left.  The  new  gate  recently  made 
in  the  north  wall  is  an  exception  to  this  form  of  gate, 
being  cut  straight   through  the  wall.     We  saw  only 
(tne  vehicle  inside  the  walls,  and  that  was  Cook's  car- 
riage that  took  us  from  the  Grand  New   Hotfl,  just 
inside  the  Joppa  Gate,  to  the  railway  station.     The 
streets  are  too  narrow  to  admit  wheeled  vehicles  with- 
in them.    There  are  narrow  sidewalks  on  David  Street, 
extending  a  short  distance  from   the  Joppa  Gate. 
But  for  the  most  part  the  streets  of  Jerusalem   have 
no  sidewalks,  are  very  narrow,  being  only  from    six 
to  twelve  feet  wide,  and,    with   few   exceptions,  are 
very  crooked.  As  you  walk  along  some  of  the  streets 
you  suddenly  come  to  what  appears  to  be  tlie  end  of 
the  street;  but  you  may  turn  a  right  angle  and  then 
again  to  the  left  and  continue  your  walk     Only   four 
of  the  principal   streets  are  dignitied  with   names 
These  are  David  Street,  Via  Dolorosa,  Christian  and 
Damascus    Streets.      Most   of   tlie   otliers   are   mere 
lanes,  and  so  winding  tliat  when  yon  start  in  at  om^ 


I 


IGO 


OUR   TOUR   AROUND   THE  WORLD 


end  you  do  not  know  where  you  will  come  out  at  the 
other  end.  If  you  get  out  at  all  without  difficulty 
you  may  be  thankful.  The  streets  are  paved  with 
stones  of  many  sizes  irregularly  set,  round  tops  and 
exceedingly  slick,  so  it  is  with  great  difficulty  for 
y()\i,  without  the  foot  of  a  goat  or  an  Arab,  to  main- 
tain your  equilibrium.  The  passage  through  them 
is  made  still  more  difficult  and  gloomy  from  the 
fact  that  mucli  of  these  streets  is  covered  with  mat- 
ting, arciied  over,  or  houses  or  backyards  built  across 
tliem,with  now  and  then  a  grated  window  through 
wliich  the  feeble  light  is  admitted  from  above.  It 
is  like  going  through  a  coal  mine,  with  the  light  de- 
scending through  the  shafts  to  guide  you. 

Rut  the  worst  feature  of  all  remains  to  be  told. 
Thf'sp  streets  are  frequently  crowded  with  every- 
1  lung  that  lives  and  moves  in  Palestine,  from  the 
iiighcst  dignified  human  official  down  to  the  lowest 
si^'cies  of  mangy  cur,  and  also  the  creeping  things 
with  which  both  man  and  beast  are  here  unfortu- 
nately compelled  to  associate.  Men,  women,  chil- 
dren, camels,  donkeys,  goats,  sheep,  dogs,  etc.,  etc., 
are  all  here,  pushing,  gesticulating,  shouting,  cry- 
ing, groaning,  braying,  bleating,  barking,  fighting 
and  kicking.  Here  come  a  number  of  camels  with 
uplifted  heads  and  a  contemptuous  curl  on  the  lip, 
swinging  back  and  forth  their  great  loads  of  brush, 
wheat,  salt,  stone  or  other  marketable  articles,  while 
the  pedestrians  flatten  themselves  against  the  walls 
to  get  out  of  the  way,  and  the  bazaar  tenders,  and 
fruit  and  vegetable  mongers  squatted  by  their  wares, 


INSIDE  THE  WALLS  KVl 

draw  their  feet  under  them  to  prevent  their  being 
chipped  by  the  sharp  hoof  of  a  donkey  or  pressed  by 
the  apcfngy  foot  of  a  camel. 

Here,  next,  we  must  give  place  to  a  drove  of  don- 
keys with  their  respective  burdens,  and  an  Arab 
larger  than  the  donkey  as  a  driver,  perched  on  the 
smallest  one,  far  back  near  its  tail,  swinging  his  big 
feet,  which  nearly  touch  the  ground,  and  giving  the 
poor  animal  a  dig  with  his  heels  every  other  step  it 
takes.  Our  dragoman  could  not  tell  us  why  these 
big  Arabs  always  select  the  smallest  donkey  on 
which  to  ride,  notwithstanding  its  back  may  be  raw, 
its  ribs  visible  under  the  skin,  and  its  hind  legs 
trembling  under  the  great  weight  placed  upon  it. 
Our  own  view  is  that  these  fellows  are  too  lazy  to 
climb  on  to  a  larger  one,  and  then, if  they  go  to  sleep 
and  fall  off,  there  is  not  much  danger  of  spoiling 
their  nap  or  bruising  their  flesh.  These  donkeys  pos- 
sess at  least  one  trait  of  human  character,  for  they, 
too,  have  learned  to  crowd.  If  a  little  donkey  comes 
to  a  crowd  of  people  in  the  street,  he  looks  for  a  hole 
into  which  he  can  thrust  his  nose,  and  then  giving 
that  member  of  his  body  a  few  side  pushes,  he  soon 
makes  an  opening  large  enough  through  which  to 
pass  his  whole  body.  I  know  a  lady  who  got  into 
trouble  more  than  once  by  supposing  that  she  could 
compete  successfully  in  the  pushing  business  with  a 
small  Jerusalem  donkey.  On  one  occasion,  as  I  took 
the  lead  to  make  an  opening  for  the  "weaker  vessel," 
I  missed  her  for  a  moment,  and  then  returned  a  few 
steps  in  time  to  see  her  emerging  from  an  Arab  ma- 


102  OUU   TOUR   AROUND   THE    WORLD 

troll's  big  basket  of  green  beans.     The  donkey  made 
no  apologies. 

But  the  climax  is  reached  when  the  different  kinds 
and  degrees  of  odors  in  these  city  tunnels  mingle  in 
onft  inharmonious  whole,  which  then  comes  in  con- 
tact with  the  olfactory  nerves. 

The  bazaars  which  open  out  in  the   walls  on  both 
sides  of  the  streets  are   insignificant  affairs.     They 
are  so  small  that  the  owner  frequently  sits   in  the 
centre  of  his  shop,  and,  without  rising,  can  put   his 
hand  on  almost  any  article  he  has  for  sale.     Some- 
times he  stretches  himself  on  his  rug  and  goes  fast 
asleep,  and  if  you  wish  to  make  a  purchase  you  must 
first  wake  him    up  and  give  him  time  to  scratch  his 
eyes  open  with  his  fingers.    More  than  once  we  woke 
up  these  fallows  to  make  a  purchase.     These  little 
shops  usually  display    a  mixture  of  Oriental   and 
European  articles  for  sale.   Sometimes  a  shop  made 
a  specialty  of  a  single  line  (»f   goods.     One   bazaar 
supplied  incense,   which   is  in  great  demand  in  the 
Holy  City,  and   from    which   we  obtained   samples. 
Another  one  had   sandals,  old  shoes,  and  goat-skin 
water-bottles;  and  still  another  sold  pure  olive  soap, 
etc.     The  bakers,  silversmiths  and   money-changers 
are  also  found   at  intervals  along  the  streets.     In 
the  new  bazaar  on  David  Street.near  the  Joppa  gate, 
are  some  more  pretentious  shops  on  the  European 
plan,   in   which  are  sold  almost  every  imaginable 
thing  that  can    be  manufactured  out  of  the  fine- 
grained   olive    wood   of  the  country.     Work-boxes, 
napkin-rings,   egg-cups,   i)aper-knives,    candlesticks, 


f 


INSIDE   THE   WALLS  168 

spectacle-cases,  pocket-books,  and  other  things  too 
numerous  to  mention,  are  all  here  for  snle.  New 
Testaments,  and  beautiful  albums  containing  pressed 
wild  flowers  from  various  parts  of  Palestine,  artis- 
tically arranged,  are  bound  in  this  wo  k1.  We  saw 
near  these  shops  a  number  of  respectable  grocery 
stores;  and  on  this  same  street  is  the  wheat  market, 
in  which  we  stood  more  than  once,  watching  the 
l)uyers  and  sellers  literally  filling  the  Scripture  re- 
quirements in  giving  a  good  measure  pressed  down, 
and  shaken  together,  and  running  over 

The  present  population  of  Jerusalem  is  estimated 
at  40,000;  and  it  is  divided  into  four  quarters, 
namely.  Christian,  Armenian,  Mohammedan,  and 
Jewish.  Even  the  dogs  seem  to  have  their  quarters, 
and  woe  be  to  that  dog  which  ventures  into  the  quar- 
ters of  his  neighbors.  The  people's  quarters  are  not 
quite  so  exclusive. 

Reader,  if  you  have  accompanied  us  in  our  walk 
through  the  Jerusalem  streets,  let  us  take  a  long 
breath  of  fresh  air  before  we  turn  aside  to  see  other 
eights. 


^ 


LETTER  XXVIII. 

A  VISIT  TO  THE  TRADITIONAL  CALVARY. 

While  I  here  place  all  I  have  to  say  of  Calvary 
under  the  head  of  "A  Visit  to  the  Traditional  Cal- 
vary," yet,  strictly  speaking,  I  should  say  visits, 
for  we  visited  both  the  traditional,  and  what  we  be- 
lieve to  be  the  real  Calvary,  several  times  and  stud- 
ied them  carefully  at  our  leisure  during  our  two 
weeks'  stay  in  Jerusalem. 

To  us  there  is  no  more  sacred  spot  on  earth  than 
Calvary.  But  where  is  Calvary?  Tradition  tells  us 
that  tiie  crucifixion  of  Jesus  on  Calvary  and  his 
burial  in  Joseph's  new  tomb,  both  took  place  on  the 
8pot  now  covered  by  what  is  called  the  Church  of  the 
Holy  Sepulchre,  which  stands  almost  in  the  heart  of  !^ 

the  city,  two  hundred  yards  from  the  nearest  wall, 
which  is  on  the  north.  This  tradition  carries  us 
back  to  the  commencement  cf  the  third  century,  and 
it  gives  us  a  very  interesting  account  of  how  the 
site  was  fixed  on  as  the  true  place  of  the  crucifixion 
and  burial  of  our  Saviour. 

According  to  one  version  of  the  legend,  Helena, 
the  mother  of  Constantine,  in  the  fourth  century, 
had  a  divine  vision,  in  which  the  true  spot  of  the 
crucifixion  was  pointed  out  to  her.     Prompted  and 

164  • 


a^ 


A   VIHfT   to   THK    TRAOrTfOXAL   CALVARY  !<)& 

<{ire(3t«^(l  l>.y  tliiH  vi.sioii,th»?  Emprtiss  made  a  journey 
to  the  Holy  City,  and  set  men  to  digging  for  the 
cross,  wliile  she  sut  by  from  day  to  day  watching 
with  intense  interest  tlie  i)roceediug8.  Eventually 
three  crosses  were  found,  with  nails,  superscription, 
crown  of  thorns,  and  other  relics.  But  there  was  a 
difficulty  in  ascertaining  which  one  of  the  three 
crosses  was  the  true  one.  But  this  difficulty  was  also 
soon  solved.  A  noble  lady  in  Jerusalem  lay  very  ill, 
and  to  her  bedside  the  crosses  were  ordered  to  be 
carried  one  at  a  time.  When  the  first  and  second 
were  brought  she  gave  a  loud  scream,  and  was  about 
to  go  into  convulsions;  but  when  she  touched  the 
third  one  she  was  instantly  and  miraculously  cured. 
Others  say  one  of  the  crosses  spoke  to  the  Empress, 
by  which  she  knew  it  was  the  true  cross.  This  cross 
has  been  split  up,  and  parts  of  it  are  on  exhibition 
at  different  places.  Reader,  what  do  you  think  of 
the  testimony? 

It  is,  however,  an  historical  fact  that  as  early  as 
the  commencement  of  the  fourth  century,  a  sump- 
tuously decorated  church  was  erected,  consisting  of 
a  building  over  the  supposed  Holy  Sepulchre,  and 
of  the  basilica  dedicated  to  the  sign  of  the  cross;  and 
from  that  day  to  the  present  a  building  in  some  form 
has  stood  over  this  sacred  spot.  The  present  Church 
of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  consists  of  a  cluster  of  churches, 
chapels,  tombs,  caverns,  etc.,  thrown  together  in  a 
confused  mass  under  one  roof,  the  whole  being  sur- 
mounted by  two  domes,  the  larger  one  towering  above 
the  surrounding  buildings  and  becoming  a  conspicu- 


I  1 


166  OUK   TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD 

0U8  object  in  viewing  the  city  from  the  adjoining 
hills.  These  churches  and  chapels  with  their  furnish- 
ings, sacred  stations  in  them,  etc.,  belong  to  the 
Greeks,  Latins,  Armenians  and  others. 

In  front  of  the  main  entrance  is  a  court,  a  little 
lower  than  the  street,  in  which  may  be  seen,  sitting 
on  their  mats,  a  number  of  venders  of  rosaries,  relics 
and  otlier  articles,  with  a  sprinkling  of  beggars  about 
the  corners.  But  our  hearts  are  now  becoming  too 
hard  for  beggars  to  profit  much  by  their  piteous 
pleadings  for  bakhshish,  and  so  with  ears  which  are 
dull  of  hearing  we  press  on  towards  the  entrance  to 
the  great  building. 

On  entering  the  door  we  notice  to  our  left  a  num- 
ber of  Turkish  soldiers,  placed  here  to  keep  the  peace 
between  the  rival  sects.  This  is  a  sad  comment  upon 
the  inlluence  of  the  cross  and  of  the  tomb  of  the 
gentle  Saviour  of  mankind,  on  the  hearts  of  these 
superstitious  people.  The  next  object  that  arrests 
our  attention,  almost  in  front  of  the  door  and  near 
the  floor,  is  the  Stone  of  Unction,  on  which  the  body  j 

of  Jesus  is  said  to  have  been  laid  for  anointing  when  «  h 

taken  down  from  the  cross.  This  marble  slab  is  about  I 

eight  and  one-half  feet  long  and  four  feet  wide, 
and  over  it  the  Armenians,  Latins,  Greeks  and  Oopts 
burn  their  lamps  and  candles.     We  saw  pilgrims  ' 

kissing  the  stone,  and  some  of  them  were  measuring  j 

their  winding  sheets  by  it  with  the  view  of  making  i 

them  the  same  length  as  the  stone.     How  this  sheet  i 

is  to  benefit  them  in  death  and  the  resurrection,  we  j 

did  not  learn.     About  thirteen  yards  to  the  left  is 


<.h 


A    VISIT    TO    THE    TRAOITIONAI,    TALVAUV  1<)T 

a  small  enclosure  miirkiiif?  tlinspot  wliere  Mary  stood 
watching  Joseph  and  Xicodemus  anoint  the  body  of 
Jesus  for  luirial.  A  few  more  st(;ps  bring  us  into  the 
rotunda,  and   here,   under  the  centre  of  the  great 
dome,  is  situated   the  Holy  Sepulchre   itself,  which 
lies  within  a  small  hexagon  chapel,  about  twenty-six 
feet  long  and  eighteen  broad.  The  sepulchre  has  two 
chambers,  the  antechamber,    which  we  now  enter, 
being  the  Angels'  Chapel,  in  the  centre  of   which  is 
the  stone  which   the  angels  on   the  morning  of   the 
resurrection  rolled  away  from  the  door  of  the  tomb. 
In  this  chapel  are  burning  fifteen  copper  lamps.   We 
next  stoop  considerably  and  pass  through  a  low  door- 
way into  the  sepulchre   proper,  which  is  only  about 
six  feet  square,  surmounted   by  a  sort  of  dome  serv- 
ing as  a  chimney,  through  which  the  smoke  escapes 
from  the  lamps.     On  the  right  of  the  entrance    is  a 
slab  about  five  and  one-half  feet  long  and  three  feet 
above  the  floor.     This  is  the  tomb.     Over  this   are 
forty-three  golden  lamps,  which  are  kept  constantly 
burning.     Four  of  these  lamps   belong  to  the  Copts, 
and  the  other  thirty-nine  are  divided  equally  among 
the  Greeks,  Latins  and  Armenians.     A  Greek  priest 
was  replenishing  some  of  the  lamps  during  one  of  our 
visits.     The    marble  slab,  and  also  the  stone   which 
the  angels  rolled  away,  are   worn   by  the  lips  of  the 
pilgrims.     We  saw  numbers  of  people  bowing  before 
these  stones  and  kissing  them.     Some  of  them  even 
prostrated  themselves  on  the  floor,  kissing  it  at  short 
intervals  as   they  dragged  themselves  along.     Such 
devotion  to  Christ,  turned  into  the  right  channel, 


1G» 


OUK  TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLII 


would  be  a  great  power  iii   the  conversion  of  the 
world. 

Just  back  of  the  sepulchre  is  the  chapel  of  the 
Copts,  a  very  meagre  uflair;  and  near  this  is  a  grotto 
with  tombs,  into  which  we  descend  with  lighted 
candles.  Here  are  said  to  be  the  tombs  of  Nicode- 
mus  and  Joseph  of  Arimatha^a.  There  can  be  no 
doubt  that  these  are  really  ancient  Jewish  tombs. 
Near  the  sepulchre,  on  the  north,  we  enter  an  open 
court,  and  in  the  centre  of  this  is  a  spot  in  the  floor 
marked  by  marble  slabs  inlaid  and  radiating  from 
a  centre  stone  like  a  star.  This  is  the  place  where 
Jesus  stood  when  he  appeared  to  Mary  Magdalene. 
The  sprt  where  Mary  stood  is  also  marked  near  by. 
The  Latin  Church,  the  Greek  Church,  the  Chapel 
of  Division  of  the  V^estments,  the  Chapel  of  the 
Crown  of  Thorns,  and  a  number  of  other  chapels, 
are  all  clustered  about  here  on  the  same  floor.  The 
Greek  Church  is  the  largest  and  most  richly  decorated 
of  them  all.  In  the  centre  of  its  marble  pavement 
is  a  short  column,  which  stands  in  the  exact  centre 
of  the  earth  I  It  is  well,  before  completing  our  journey 
around  the  earth,  that  we  pause  a  moment  at  its 
very  centre. 

From  the  centre  of  the  earth  we  now  descend 
twenty-nine  steps  into  the  Chapel  of  Helena,  and 
then  down  thirteen  more  steps  into  the  Chapel  of 
the  Finding  of  the  Cross.  Here  is  where  the  three 
crosses  were  found,  and  a  niche  in  the  wall  over- 
looking this  cave  is  the  place  where  the  Empress  sat 
watching  the  workmen  while  searching  for  these 
treasures. 


\., 


1 


A   VISIT   TO   THE    TRADITIONAL   CALVARY 


U)H 


\; 


Returning  to  tlie  main   floor  and  nxnmiiiiiis  llic 
coluimi  to  wliicli   Jt!8iis  was  hound   wlion   Hoour<^(Ml, 
we  ascend  eigliteen  steps  on  to  a  second  Moor,  wliicli 
is   only  fourteen  and  a  half  feet  above  the  Moor  on 
which  the  sepulchre  stands.     Here    is   Calvary.    In 
the  end  of  this  chapel  is  an   altar  under  which  is  u 
hole  through  a  marble  slab   faced   Nsith    silver,  in 
which  the  cross   of  Christ  stood.     Five  feet  to  each 
side  of  this  hole  are  two  more  holes,  in  which    the 
crosses  of  the  two  thieves  stood,  that  of  the  penitent 
thief  being  on  the  right.     Four  and  one-half  feet  to 
the  right  of  Christ's  cross  is  the  rent  in  the  rock  made 
by  the  earthquake  at  the  time  of  the  crucifixion. 
The  rent  is  covered   by  a  brass  slide,  and   is  said  to 
reach  to  the  centre  of  the  earth   (not  the  centre  we 
visited),  but  which,  in  fact,  is  only  six  inches  deep. 
The  slide  may   be  pushed  to  one  side,   and    if  you 
are  a  doubting  Thomas  you  are  permitted  to  thrust 
in  your  hand  and  believe.     A  little  farther  to   the 
right  is  a  beautiful  altar  behind   which   is  a  picture 
of  the  Virgin,  set  in  diamonds.   All  the   adornments 
about  these  altars  are  of  the  richest  and  most  profuse 
description.      Also,    on  this  floor,   there  are   some 
small  chapels  which  I  will  not  take  time  and  space 
to  describe. 

The  reader  must  not  forget,  however,  that  Adam 
and  P:ve  and  Melchizedek  were  all  buried  here  under 
these  crosses,  and  the  chapel  of  Adam  and  the  tomb 
of  Melchizedek  mark  the  sacred  spots.  It  is  said 
when  Christ  was  crucified  his  blood  flowed  through 
the  cleft  in  the  rock  on  to  the  head  of  Adam, and  im- 


170 


OUR   TOUR   AROUND   THE    WORLD 


mediately  the  "first  man"  was  restored  to  life. 
Whether  or  not  he  is  still  living  we  were  not  in- 
formed. 

There  is  one  other  thing  of  which  T  wish  to  speak 
before  leaving  this  curious  Church,  and  that  is  the 
Easter  Festival.  During  this  festival,  Jerusalem  and 
the  Church  of  the  Sepulchre  are  crowded  with  pil- 
grims of  every  nationality,  and  both  in  the  Church 
and  on  the  streets  are  enacted  many  disorderly  and 
disgraceful  scenes. 

In  former  times  the  Latins  represented  Christ  en- 
tering Jerusalem  on  an  ass  from  the  village  of  Beth- 
phage,  and  even  now  they  send  to  Gaza  for  palm 
branches,  which  they  consecrate  on  Palm  Sunday, 
and  distribute  among  the  people.  But  the  greatest 
farce  of  all  is  the  so-called  Holy  Fire,  which  they 
claim  comes  down  from  heaven.  On  one  side  of  the 
sepulchre,  there  is  a  hole  through  the  wall  a  few 
inches  in  circumference.  On  Easter  eve  when  the 
Church  is  crowded  with  the  pilgrims,  and  the  galler- 
ies filled  with  strangers,  most  of  whom  have  spent 
the  previous  night  in  the  Church,  the  Greek  patri- 
arch enters  the  Chapel  of  the  Sepulchre,  while  the 
priests  pray  without,  and  the  people  are  in  the  ut- 
most suspense.  At  length  the  patriarch  who  is  on 
the  inside  of  the  Sepulchre  alone,  passes  the  fire  out 
through  the  hole,  and  then  follows  an  indescribable 
tumult.  Every  one  endeavors  to  have  his  wax  taper 
lighted  first  by  the  holy  fire  which  has  just  descended 
from  heaven  in  answer  to  prayer.  In  a  few  sec- 
onds, amidst  the  uproar,  which  is  always  accompanied 


A  VISIT  TO   THE   TRADITIONAL   CALV^ARY 


171 


with  fighting,  the  whole  building  is  illuminated 
with  burning  tapers.  Formerly  the  Latins  joined 
in  this  monstrous  piece  of  deception  in  the  Christian 
name,  but  at  present  it  is  managed  by  the  Greeks 
alone. 

In  1834  a  terrible  catastrophe  occurred  in  connec- 
tion with  this  festival.  There  were  more  than  6,000 
people  in  the  Church,  when  suddenly  a  riot  broke 
out.  The  Turkish  guards  who  are  aways  present  on 
these  occasions,  supposing  they  were  being  attacked, 
made  a  desperate  resistance,  and  in  the  scuffle  three 
bundred  pilgrims  were  either  killed  by  the  soldiers, 
trampled  to  death,  or  suffocated.  A  German  gentle- 
man who  has  resided  in  Jerusalem  several  years,  told 
me  that  he  had  talked  with  the  Greek  priests  about 
this  wicked  and  dangerous  imposition,  which  they 
frankly  acknowledged.  When  asked  why  they  per- 
petuated it,  their  reply  was  that  the  superstitious 
people  demanded  it,  it  brought  the  pilgrims  to  the 
holy  shrine,  and  benefited  the  city  and  the  Church 
financially.  Verily  the  whip  of  the  ^Master  is  still 
needed  with  which  to  drive  out  these  heartless  hypo- 
crites. Almost  every  foot  of  this  great  building  is 
occupied  with  "sacred"'  spots  which  are  visited  at 
regular  intervals  by  companies  of  richly-robed,saiic- 
timonious  priests,  and  kissed  by  millions  of  ignorant 
people.  Let  us  turn  aside  for  something  more  sub- 
stantial and  refreshing. 


a 


LETTER  XXIX. 

A  VISIT  TO  THE  TRUE  CALVARY. 

I  HAVE  called  the  site  of  the  Church  of  the  Holy 
Sepulchre  the  traditional  Calvary  because  the  evi- 
dence that  our  Saviour  was  crucified  and  buried  there 
is  mainly  traditional.  The  scholarship  which  has 
blindly  accepted  this  tradition  for  ages  past  is  com- 
pelled by  modern  research  to  give  place  to  a  more 
scientific  and  scriptural  view  of  the  question.  That 
Jesus  was  crucified  outside  the  city  walls,  is  a  fact 
definitely  settled  by  the  Scriptures,  and  it  seems 
equally  certain  that  the  burial  also  took  place  out- 
side the  city,  for  John  says,  "The  sepulchre  was 
nigh  at  hai?d,"  John  xix.  42. 

Now,  in  locating  the  place  of  the  crucifixion  of 
Christ,  there  are  at  least  six  facts  which  must  be 
taken  into  consideration : 

1.  It  took  place  in  a  garden.     In  John   xix.   41 
we  read:  "Now,  in  the  place  where  he  was  crucified, 
there  was  a  garden,  and  in  the  garden   a  new  sepul- 
chre, wherein  was  never  man  yet  laid."   There  is  no  | 
evidence  that  such  a  garden  ever  existed  where  the  | 
Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  now  stands. 

2.  It  must  be  a  place  called  "a  skull  "  "And  they 
bring  him  unto  the  place  Golgotha  which  is,  being 
interpreted,  the  place  of  a  skull."    Mark  xv.  22. 

172 


A  VISIT  TO   THE   TRUE   CALVARY  178 

3.  It  must  have  been  near  some  public  thorough- 
fare. "And  they  that  passed  by  reviled  him,  wag- 
ging their  heads. "  Matt,  xxvii.  39. 

4  It  was  near  the  city.  "For  the  place  where 
Jesus  was  crucified   was  nigh  to  the  city."    John 

xix.  20. 

5.  In  Matt,  xxviii.  11,  it  says:  "Now  when  they 
were  going,  behold,  some  of  the  watch  came  into  the 
city,"  showing  that  the  sepulchre  was  outside  of  the 

.  walls. 

0.  And  finally,  in  Heb.  xiii.  11,  12,  Paul  says: 
"For  the  bodies  of  those  beasts  whose  blood  is  brought 
into  the  sanctuary  by  the  high  priest  for  sin,  are 
burned  without  the  camp.  Wherefore  Jesus  also, 
that  he  might  sanctify  the  people  with  his  own 
blood,  suffered  without  the  gate.'''' 

Now  it  is  easy  to  be  seen  that  these  descriptions 
are  not  filled  by  the  site  of  the  Church  of  the  Holy 
Sepulchre,  which  is  situated  almost  in  the  heart  of 
the  city,  two  hundred  yards  from  the  wall  at  the 
nearest  point.  Nor  is  there  any  evidence,  as  some 
have  contended,  that  the  wall  of  the  city  at  the  time 
of  Christ  stood  so  as  to  place  the  site  of  this  Church 
on  the  outside  of  the  city.  Where,  then,  is  the  gen- 
uine Calvary? 

At  the  north  of  the  town,  a  little  distance  from 
the  Damascus  Gate,  there  is  a  hill,  in  shape  resem- 
bling a  skull,  and  in  the  southern  face  of  which  is 
situated  the  Grotto  of  Jeremiah,  which,  in  the  opin- 
ion of  many  modern  sciiolars,  meets  every  require- 
ment of  the  Scriptures  as  the  place  of  the  crucifixion. 


n  i' 


ttl 


1 


174 


OUR  TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD 


Sir  J.  W.  Dawson,  in  his  recent  able  work  entitled 
"Modern  Science  in  Bible  Lands,"  after  stating  sev- 
eral objections  to  the  traditional  site,  says:  "All 
these  considerations  militate  aga-nst  the  claim  of 
the  present  Church  to  be  on  the  site  either  of  the 
crucifixion,  or  of  the  tomb  of  Jesus,  while  the  points 
stated  in  the  gospels,  though  evidently  not  intended 
to  fix  the  site  as  a  holy  place,  are  sufficient  to  indi- 
cate that  the  knoll  outside  the  Damascus  Gate,  now 
used  as  a  little  Moslem  cemetery,  and  at  one  time 
the  public  place  of  execution,  is  the  real  Golgotha, 
or  *place  of  a  skull,'  to  which  it  also  has  a  claim  on 
account  of  its  singular  form,  like  that  of  a  low- 
browed calvarium  with  two  sockets  formed  by  old 
tomb^  excavated  in  its  front.  This  strikes  ever.y  one 
when  it  is  seen  in  certain  lights.  I  have  advocated 
the  claims  of  this  site  in  my  little  book,'Eygpt  and 
Syria, '  for  reasons  which  will  be  found  in  that  work ; 
but  I  shall  here  quote  with  some  slight  changes  from 
a  recent  admirable  summary  of  the  facts  in  a  paper 
by  my  friend,  Dr.  Selah  Merrill,  and  shall  add  some 
notes  on  the  geology  of  this  site  of  so  great  religious 
and  historical  interest."  The  following  are  among 
the  lines  quoted  from  Dr.  Merrill:  "For  some  years 
past  there  has  been  a  growing  conviction  that  the 
hill  in  which  Jeremiah's  Grotto  is  shown,  situated  a 
little  to  the  northeast  of  the  Damascus  Gate,  satisfied 
the  conditions  as  to  the  site  of  Calvary  better  than 
any  other  spot  in  or  around  Jerusalem.  Indeed,  a 
large  number  of  competent  scholars  have  already 
accepted  this  hill  as  Golgotha.     Hundreds  of  Chris- 


'! 


A   VISIT   TO   THE    TRUE   CALVARY  175 

tian  tourists  visit  the  place  every  year,  and  few  of 
them  go  away  unconvinced  that  both  the  arguments 
and  the  strong  probability  are  in  favor  of  this  being 
regarded  as  the  true  site  of  the  crucifixion."  Major 
C.  R.  Conder,  who  is  very  high  authority  on  Pales- 
tine, also  says:  "The  probable  site  of  Calvary  was 
first  pointed  out  by  the  present  author  in  1879,  in 
consequence  of  the  survival  of  a  Jewish  tradition  as 
to  the  'place  of  stoning'  (Mishna.  Sanhed.  6:1)  or  of 
public  execution.  It  is  a  remarkable  knoll,  outside 
the  third  wall,  on  the  north  of  the  city,  and  certainly 
never  included  within  the  limits  of  Jerusalem.  It 
is  now  commonly  known  as  El  Heidheiniyeh,  or  by 
Christians  called  'Jeremiah's  Grotto'— a  fit  spot  for 
a  public  spectacle,  with  a  natural  amphitheatre  of 
slopes  around  it,  and  in  full  view  of  the  temple  and 
the  second  wall.  .  .  This  site  has  become  gen- 
erally accepted  as  the  true  site  of  Golgotha,  that  is. 

Calvary." 

We  were  particularly  impressed  with  the  appear- 
ance of  this  hill  and  its  surroundings  as  a  suitable 
place  for  public  executions,  and  especially  the  cruci- 
fixion of  Jesus.  There  is  no  mistaking  the  skull 
shape  of  the  hill,  even  what  corresponds  to  the  sock- 
ets of  the  eyes  being  clearly  seen  in  the  southern 
face  of  the  knoll  Indeed,  every  deuxil  about  this 
hill  so  strikingly  corresponds  with  the  gospel  narra- 
tives respecting  the  place  of  the  crucifixion  that  you 
seem  to  see  the  whole  tragic  scene  transpiring  be- 
fore you.  Though  the  hill  is  only  about  fifty  feet 
above  the  land  immediately  about  it,  it  is  a  conspic- 

i  ■ 

'1 


17<)  OVH    TOITR   AHOUNI)    THE   WORLD 

iiuiis  ol)j«ot;  for,  tis  JJuwson  fitly  concludeB:  "It  is 
near  to  the  city,  between  the  ancient  roads  leading 
from  the  Damascus  Gate  and  Herod's  Gate,  not  dis 
tant  from  ti)e  site  of  the  Pretorium  and  having  gar- 
dens and  tombs  close  to  it.  It  is  also  so  situated  as 
to  command  a  view  of  the  whole  city  and  the  temple, 
and  of  the  amphitheatre  of  surrounding  hills,  and 
there  is  no  other  place  which  fulfills  all  these  condi- 
tions."  The  fact  that  the  summit  and  the  northern 
slope  of  the  hill  are  covered  with  Mohammedan 
graves  hab  ^jreserved  to  the  Christian  world,  I  am 
thankful  to  know,  this  spot  in  its  natural  condition. 
As  we  gathered  a  few  late  flowers  from  the  place 
about  where  the  cross  of  Christ  may  have  stood,  a 
woman,  heavily  veiled,  came  and  sat  a  long  time  by 
one  of  the  tombs  not  far  away. 

Having  settled  the  place  of  the  crucifixion  within 
the  limits  of  probability,  let  us  look  for  the  sepul- 
clire  which,  according  to  John,  "was  nigh  at  hand." 
We  have  not  far  to  go.  About  sixty  yards  to  the  west 
of  the  spot  of  the  crucifixion,  in  a  low  cliff,  there  is 
an  ancient  Jewish  tomb  which  seems  to  fill  the  gos- 
pel descriptions  of  the  tomb  of  Joseph.  It  is  in  a 
garden,  and  in  a  place  where  a  garden   has   appar-  I 

ently  existed  from  the  first  century  to  the  present  | 

day.  It  is  "hewn  in  the  rock."  It  would  require  a 
"great  stone"  rolled  to  the  door  to  close  it.  As  poor 
Jews  could  not  own  such  valuable  tombs,  it  must 
have  belonged  to  a  rich  man.  And,  finally,  in  the 
estimation  of  competent  scholars  who  have  carefully 
examined  it,  its  interior  is   "precisely  the  style  of 


^' 


A   VISIT   TO   THE   TRUE    CALVARY 


tomb  into  which  we  may  suppose  the  apostles  stooped 
down  and  looked  on  the  morning  of  the  resurrection. " 
After  visiting  this  hill  and  tomb  several  times,  we 
came  away  thoroughly  satisfied  that  on  this  skull- 
hill  Jesus  was  crucified,  and  that  he  was  buried  in 
Joseph's  new  tomb  near  at  hand,  from  which  he  arose 
on  the  third  day  according  to  the  Scriptures 

On  Sunday  before  leaving  the  Holy  City  we  went 
out  on  to  this  hill  to  see  the  sun  set  and  to  meditate. 
The  view  was  a  charming  one.  At  our  feet  on  the 
south  lay  the  city,  quieting  into  peaceful  slumber, 
beyond  which  the  hills  toward  Bethlehem  were  vis- 
ible. To  our  left  was  the  Mount  of  Olives,  over  which 
the  full  moon  was  rising  in  all  its  glory.  To  our 
right  was  the  New  Jerusalem,  from  behind  which 
the  setting  sun  was  throwing  its  soft  rays  over  the 
Mount  of  Olives;  and  behind  us  was  Mount  Scopus 
with  some  handsome  European  residences  on  its 
summit.  Amidst  these  beautiful  surroundings  wo 
sat  down,  read  the  account  of  the  crucifixion  given 
in  the  gospels,  and  tried  to  enter  into  a  realization 
of  the  sacred  scenes  which  transpired   on  this  spot. 


•  :« 


LETTER  XXX. 

DOWN  TO  JERICHO. 

Yes,  it  is  down  in  earnest.  When  the  Bible  says 
down  it  means  down,  and  wlien  it  says  up  it  means 
up.  The  Bible  in  speaking  of  the  relative  levels  of 
the  country,  as  in  all  other  resi)ects,  has  never  been 
known  to  make  a  mistake,  This  shows  that  the 
writers  were  on  the  spot,  that  they  were  well  ac- 
(juaiuted  with  the  country  al)ont  which  they  wrote, 
and  that  they  were  guided  by  inspiration.  In  their 
faithfulness  to  all  details,  they  have  done  what  the 
learned,  experienced  and  painstaking  authors  of  our 
best  guide-books  have  never  been  able  to  do.  We 
read  in  the  good  Book  that  ''a  certain  man  went 
down  from  Jerusalem  to  .Jericho,  and  fell  among 
thieves."     We  were  more  fortunate  than  this  man;  ^ 

we  went  down  to  Jericho,  and  did  )iot  fall  among 
thieves.  Tlio  reason  was  obvious.  We  made  friends 
of  the  thieves  by  engaging  as  our  guard  the  chief 
thief  of  the  tribe, 

Before  beginning  the  journey  let  us  go  upon  the 
Mount  of  Olives  and  have  a  look  toward  Jericho, 
whicii  is  distant  from  JeruHalcni  about  nineteen  miloa. 
From  tlii^  point  as  you  look  tnward  the  cast,  tin; 
northern  end  of  the  Dead  Sea,  tiiu  wide  plain  of  the 

178 


DOWN   TO   JERICHO  179 

Jordau,  the  line  of  green  trees  bordering  the  Jordan 
as  it  winds  its  way  through  the  plain  till  lost  in  the 
sea,  and  the  mountains  of  Moab  beyond,  crowned 
with  Pisgah's  height,  are  all  in  plain  view.  The 
pea  and  plain  are  near  4/)(K)  feet  helow  you,  making 
the  descent  from  Jerusalem  very  rnpid;and  through 
the  exceed  in  <!;ly  Iranapnrent  atmosphere  of  Palestine 
they  appear  so  close  to  you  tlrat  you  imagine  you 
can  walk  down  to  them  in  lialf  an  hour. 

We  made  tlie  start  from  Howard's  Hotel,  outside 
the  Ja (fa  Gate,  at  2  \\  m.,  under  a  July  sun;  and 
our  equipments  were  few  and  simple,  but  a  trifle 
grotesque.  The  two  big  trotters  and  the  dragoman 
were  mounted  on  Syrian  horses  in  European  saddles, 
and  wearing  broad-brimmed  pith  helmets,  flying 
puggeries  and  green  ghisses.  The  glasses  we  found 
very  hot  to  the  eyes,  and  much  of  the  time  we  dis- 
pensed with  them.  The  little  trotter  rode  a  long- 
eared  donkey  of  his  choice;  the  sheikh  of  the  district 
through  which  we  were  to  pass,  armed  with  carbine, 
revolver  and  dagger,  rode  a  sleek,  sjiirited  bay  mare, 
^  with  fantastical  bridle,  in  common  with  the  rest  of 

us;  and  the  muleteer  was  perched  on  top  of  our  bag- 
gage, etc.,  thrown  across  the  back  of  a  large  mule. 
We  went  single  file,  for  these  Syrian  horses,  being 
used  to  following  the  narrow  paths  of  the  country, 
will  go  no  other  way.  Our  order  of  procession  was 
usually  as  follows:  The  armed  sheikh  taking  the 
lead,  the  dragoman,  the  male  trotter,  the  female 
trotter,  the  little  trotter,  and  the  Arab  muletfier. 
Our  horses   were  poor  walkers,   hard  trotters,   and 


: 


A 


IHO  OUR  TOUR   AROUND   THE   WORLD 

liardg*  gallopers,  and  so  lazy  that  they  seemed  ut- 
terly indifterent  to  the  keen  strokes  of  the  whip. 
But  they  are  sensitive  to  the  bite  of  liies,  and  for 
th's  reason  you  need  to  be  constantly  on  your  guard. 
These  horses  will  suddenly  stop  and  with  their  hind 
feet  kick  the  flies  otf  the  top  of  their  heads  without 
the  least  concern  for  the  comfort  of  the  rider.  If 
they  would  kick  with  both  feet  at  once, the  vigorous 
process  of  dispejising  with  the  annoying  Hies  might 
be  tolerated.  But  the  kicking  is  done  with  first  one 
foot  and  then  the  other;  and  all  the  shouting  and 
whipping  you  may  do  will  not  alter  the  awkward 
situation  till  the  process  is  completed.  The  mule, 
we  noticed,  made  better  progress,  for  he  usually  went 
forward  on  three  legs  while  li(3  kicked  olf  the  flies 
with  the  fourth  one.  Our  donkey  paid  but  little  at- 
tention to  the  flies,  for  he  was  never  known  to  flinch 
or  kick.  But  he  was  particularly  careful  about  the 
treatment  of  his  large  ears.  His  rider  took  to  amus- 
ing himself  by  tickling  these  npi)endages  with  his 
riding  stick,  and  the  donkey  becoming  indignant  at 
such  an  insult,  bowed  his  head  between  his  fore  feet  j^ 

and  set  the  little  trotter  otf  in  the  road. 
I  We  rode  around  the  north   wall  of  the  city,  leav- 

ing Calvary  on  the  left,  crossed  the  Kidron,    passed 
the  garden  of  Gethsemane,  wound  around  the  south-  I 

ern  brow  of  the  Mount  of  Olives,  and  went  close  by.  \ 

Bethany.   I  asked  our  dragoman  wliy  we  needed  the  | 

sheikh  escort,  seeing  that  there  was  little  danger  of  j 

our  falling  among  thieves  on  our  way  to  Jericho.  He  | 

said  the  real  thief  was  the  sheikh  himself,    who,  if  j 

r 


: 


i 
i 


DOWN    TO   JERICHO  181 

Hot  paid  tt  sum  fur  tlie  privilege  of  esoorting  us 
tlirougli  his  territory,  wouM  stir  up  his  lawleBsj^ands 
aiul  make  it  lively  and  dangerous  for  us.  All  the 
wire-i)ulling  njoney-niakers  do  not  live  in  America. 
With  this  rich  old  thief  riding  before  us  to  inform 
his  allies  that  he  had  contracted  with  us  for  a  safe 
journey,  we  were  in  no  danger  whatever  while  in 
his  country. 

Half  of  tlie  way  to  Jericho  the  road  is  a  beautiful 
carriage-way;  but  it  would  be  dangerous,  if  not  im- 
possible, for  a  wheeled  vehicle  to  pass  over  the  re- 
mainder of  the  distance.  We  poon  passed  the  Foun- 
tain of  the  Ap(^8tles,  out  of  which  the  apostles  must 
have  drunk  when  passing  that  way.  The  water  bursts 
out  of  a  stone  wall,  the  remains  of  an  old  house,  and 
falls  into  a  stone  trough.  It  is  cool  and  refreshing 
and  is  the  only  spring  on  the  road. 

We  are  now  in  the  midst  of  the  "wilderness  of 
Judea,"  and  it  is  rightly  named.  Barren  rocky  hills 
and  deep  valleys  are  seen  everywhere,  with  Jiore  and 
there  a  herd  of  hungry  sheep  and  goats  nibbling  at 
the  dry  grass  between  the  stones,  the  shepherd  going 
before  them  as  the  Scriptures  describe  it.  All  the 
herds  we  saw  in  Palestine  were  mixed,  which  made 
us  think  of  the  churches,  and  the  division  between 
the  sheep  and  the  goats  that  will  take  place  at  the 
judgment  day.  In  some  places  the  ground  was  lit- 
erally covered  with  locusts,  which  were  making  a 
peculiar  grating  noise.  Near  Jericho  \vw  procured 
a  sample  of  this  food  of  John  the  Baptist,  and  brought 
it  home  with  us.     We  met  at  short  intervals  large 


182 


OUR  TOUR  AROUND   THE    WORLD 


numbers  of  cameJs  and  donkeys  from  beyond  the 
Jordan,  laden  with  wheat  for  the  Jerusalem  markets 
and  driven  by  fierce-looking  Arabs. 

Hall-way  to  Jericho  we  came  to  the  place  where 
tradition  has  localized  the  parable  of  the  Good  Sa- 
maritan. It  was  certainly  a  fit  place  for  the  abode 
of  robbers,  and  robberies  have  taken  place  about 
here.  A  newly  erected  khan  stands  here  to  the  left 
of  the  road  for  the  accommodation  of  travellers.  It 
stands  on  a  very  old  foundation,  probably  the  foun- 
dation of  the  inn  to  which  the  Good  Samaritan  is 
said  to  have  taken  the  unfortunate  man  who  fell 
among  the  thieves.  On  passing  through  a  gate  in 
the  front  wall  you  enter  a  large  open  court.  The 
accommodation    is  only  suitable  for  the  natives. 

We  next  find  ourselves  riding  along  the  edge  of  a 
precipice,  over  which  we  look  and  see  a  small  stream 
flowing  in  the  bed  of  the  ravine  hundreds  of  feet 
below  us.  It  makes  us  dizzy  to  look  into  this  ravine; 
and  in  places  if  our  horses  were  to  go  too  near  the 
edge  and  slip  over  they  would  almost  have  a  cle^r 
fall  to  the  bottom.  This  is  the  brook  Cherith,  in 
which  Elijah  was  fed  by  the  ravens;  and  away  up 
over  the  brook  in  the  opposite  bluff  is  the  Convent 
of  the  "^aven,  in  which  is  kept  the  very  raven  that 
fed  El';ah  (it  is  dead  now,  I  believe),  and  which  you 
may  see  for  a  substantial  sum  1  There  are  holes  along 
in  these  bluffs  in  which  monks  sometimes  live.  Prob- 
ably no  more  fit  place  for  the  prophet  to  hide  could 
have  been  found  in  all  Palestine.  A  little  farther 
on,  a  beautiful  view  of  Jericho,   the  Dead  Sea,  the 


DOWN    TO    JKRICriO 


183 


Jordan,  the  plain  and  the  mountains  beyond  the 
Jordan  burst  upon  us,  and  we  rejoiced. 

Our  road  now  broke  down  abruptly  into  the  plain, 
and  crossing  the  brook  Cherith  and  riding  through 
the  valley  of  Achor,  in  which  Achan  was  stoned, 
we  entered  Jericho  at  7:80  p,  m  ,  tired  and  hungry, 
having  been  five  and  a  half  hours  in  the  saddle.  We 
put  up  over  night  at  a  small  Russian  hotel  where  we 
found  everything  remarkably  clean,  and  a  good  bill 
of  fare,  including  the  first  grapes  of  the  season, 
which  were  several  weeks  earlier  than  this  fruit  in 
any  other  part  of  the  Holy  Land.  We  slept  under 
Turkish  silk  quilts  of  rich,  bright  colors,  which  I 
verily  believe  Mrs.  Trotter  envies  to  this  day. 

There  are  three  Jerichos,  all  occupying  different 
sites.  The  walls  which  surrounded  the  cities  in  the 
time  of  Joshua  and  of  Herod,  respectively,  are  still 
traceable.  The  present  .Jericho  consists  of  a  group 
of  mud  and  stone  hovels,  inhabited  by  about  300  de- 
generate Arabs,  and  probably  about  the  same  num- 
ber of  dogs.  Our  estimate  of  the  liumber  of  dogs  is 
made  from  their  barking  during  the  night. 

A  single  palm  tree  remains  in  this  squalid  village 
to  remind  .us  of  the  once  beautiful  "City  of  Palms." 


LETTER  XXXI. 

A  VISIT  TO  THE  DEAD  SEA. 

The  fourth  day  of  July,  1894,  with  us  was  an  active 
and  intensely  interesting  day.  We  spent  this  Fourth 
at  Jericho,  the  Dead  Sea  and  the  Jordan.  We  did 
not  forget  that  this  was  our  Independence  Day  in 
America;  and  although  we  carried  the  stars  and 
stripes  with  us,  we  had  but  little  time  in  which  to 
display  it,  or  to  let  otf  fire-works.  It  creates  a  strange 
sensation  in  the  bosom  of  the  loyal  American  to 
spend  the  Fourth  under  such  peculiar  circumstances. 
But  surrounded  as  we  were,  with  scenes  among  which 
had  been  manifested  so  often  the  wonderful  works 
of  God,  and  which  were  so  closely  associated  with 
the  world's  spiritual  independence  through  Christ, 
we  must  confess  that  the  Independence  Day  of  our 
beloved  country  lost  many  of  its  charms. 

We  arose  at  5  a.  m.  ,  took  our  breakfast  on  the 
balcony  of  our  hotel,  which  was  embowered  in  grape- 
vines and  fragrant  flowers,  and  started  from  Jericho 
to  the  Dead  Sea  in  the  cool  of  the  morning.  All 
along  our  journey  from  Australia  we  had  been  in- 
formed by  European  wiseacres,  who  had  never  seen 
Palestine,  that  on  account  of  the  intense  heat  in 
this  low  valley,  it  would  be  impossible  for  us  to  visit 


i 


"v 


li 


1»4  .i 


A  VISIT   TO   THE    DEAD    SEA  l85 

the  Dead  Sea  and  the  Jordan  during  the  summer 
months.  But  we  neither  believed  their  story  nor 
acted  on  their  advice.  We  had  passed  through  the 
tropical  heat  of  Ceylon  and  the  Red  Sea  without 
harm,  and  we  were  quite  prepared  for  the  heat  of  the 
Jordan  valley.  We  were  not  disappointed.  The  two 
days  we  spent  in  this  valley  we  were  fanned  by  a 
gentle  breeze  from  the  north,  and  the  nights  were 
delightfully  cool.  To  be  sure,  at  noon  in  the  sun  it 
was  hot,  but  at  no  time  did  wesutter  from  the  etfects 
of  the  heat.  We  have  experienced  hotter  weather 
both  in  America  and  Australia  than  we  have  experi- 
enced any  time  in  Palestine.  Indeed,  we  felt  the  h'^at 
more  on  the  first  fourth  of  July  after  our  return 
home,  than  we  did  on  the  Fourth  we  spent  in  the 
valley  of  the  Jordan.  There  are  days,  however,  in 
the  absence  of  any  breeze,  when  the  heat  in  this  val- 

i  ley  is  very  trying;  and  our  dragoman  told  us  of  a 

number  of  bloated    English  beer-guzzlers   who  came 

';  very  near   dying  from  the  effects  of  the  heat  here. 

Beer  and  the  tropical  sun  are  not  congenial  compan- 
'/  ions  in  travel, 

At  Jericho  the  Dead  Sea  seems  quite  near  to  you; 
but  it  is  nevertheless  about  nine  miles  awav.  Our 
ride  over  the  almost  barren  plain  was  a  pleasant  one, 

i  and  we  reached  the  sea  at  8  a   m.   A  few  bushes  and 

coarse  grass  bordering  the  branch  from  Elisha's 
Fountain,  and  a  few  small  thorn  bushes  scattered  over 
the  plain  were  to  be  seen  along  our  way, and  even  these 
disappeared  as  we  approached  the  sea;  and  the  snndy 

ground,  near  the  sea,  over  which  we  rode  was  spotted 

if 


18(3  OUR   TOUR  AROUND   THE   WORLD 

at  intervals  with  a  sprinkling  of  salt,  left  after  the 
evaporation  of  the  water.  Of  course  we  all  went  in 
for  a  bath,  and  instead  of  experiencing  the  unpleas- 
ant sensation  from  the  effects  of  the  salt  water 
complained  of  by  most  travellers  who  have  bathed  in 
this  sea,  we  pronounced  it  a  very  pleasant  and  re- 
freshing bath.  The  beautiful  blue  sea  was  calm, 
the  beach  pebbly,  and  the  slope  to  the  deep  water, 
gradual.  You  can  float  on  the  water  without  effort. 
In  fact,  you  can  no  more  sink  than  a  light  log  could 
sink.  The  difficulty  is  the  body  is  lifted  so  far  out 
of  the  water  that  it  is  not  easy  to  make  headway 
swimming.  But  Mrs.  Trotter,  who  is  a  fair  swim- 
mer, was  delighted  with  the  buoyancy  of  the  water. 
It  is  said  that  a  horse  ridden  into  the  sea  can  not  sink 
his  body  sufficiently  in  the  water  to  enable  him  to 
swim,  but  will  immediately  turn  over  on  his  side, 
snort  and  struggle  to  regain  and  maintain  his  equi- 
librium. We  did  not  try  this  experiment, as  we  had 
no  horses  to  spare.  But  we  verily  believe  that  the 
only  donkey  of  our  company  was  so  lazy  that  instead 
of  struggling  on  going  in,  he  would  have  stretched 
himself  on  the  surface  of  the  water  and  floated  out  to 
sea  with  the  greatest  complacency.  We  filled  a  small 
bottle  with  the  water  to  bring  home  with  us,  and 
then  we  began  to  think  more  seriously  of  our  sur- 
roundings 

This  sea,  which  is  known  in  the  Bible  as  the  Salt 
Sea,  the  East  Sea,  the  Sea  of  the  Plain,  and  later, 
the  Dead  Sea  and  the  Sea  of  Lot,  is  in  many  respects 
the  most  remarkable  and  interesting  sheet  of  water 


A  VISIT  TO  THE   DEAD   SEA  187 

Id  all  the  world.  It  is  the  lowest  inland  sea  in  the 
world,  being  3,900  feet  below  the  Mount  of  Olives, 
and  1,293  feet  below  the  level  of  the  Mediterranean 
Sea.  It  ia  forty-seven  miles  long,  about  ten  miles 
wide,  and  its  greatest  depth  is  1,310  feet.  Its  sides 
are  bordered  with  precipitous  bluffs  and  iiiuuntains, 
varying  in  height  from  500  to  3,000  feet,  and  a 
mountain  of  rock  salt  stretches  for  seven  miles  along 
its  southwestern  shore.  This  salt  is  of  excellent 
quality,  and  is  the  salt  principally  found  in  the  Je- 
rusalem markets.  We  procured  a  sample,  and  we 
have  been  asked  since  coming  home  if  it  is  likely  to 
be  a  piece  of  Lot's  wife.  We  leave  that  problem  for 
the  "higher  critics"  to  solve. 

Into  this  sea  it  is  estimated  not  less  than  six  mil- 
lion tons  of  water  are  poured  daily,  mainly  by  the 
.Jordan.  For  this  enormous  quantity  of  water  there 
is  no  escape  except  by  means  of  the  extraordinary 
evaporation  which  is  continually  going  on;  and  this 
evaporation  leaves  behind  every  substance  which  has 
been  washed  into  the  sea  that  constitutes  saltness, 
and  thus  it  is  we  have  as  a  result  in  the  Dead  Sea 
water  the  heaviest  and  sal  test  sea  water  on  the  earth. 
You  are  also  struck  with  the  death-like  appearance 
of  every  object  about  this  sea.  There  is  not  a  living 
thing  to  be  seen  in  its  waters  or,  with  a  few  excep- 
tions, close  to  its  shores.  Even  the  fish  which  are 
floated  down  into  it  by  the  .Jordan  immediately  die 
and  are  washed  ashore.  If  any  living  thing  exists 
in  the  Dead  Sea,  which  is  very  doubtful,  it  is  of  a 
very  low  order,  and  has  not  yet  been  discovered. 


188 


OUR  TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD 


Neither  shells  nor  coral  are  found  in  it  The  ancients 
believed  that  not  even  a  bird  could  lly  across  it.  But 
this  belief  is  evidently  unfounded  We  saw  anchored 
at  a  short  distance  from  tiie  shor-i  a  small  Arab  sail 
boat,  We  were  told  that  there  was  another  similar 
boat  on  the  sea,  bjth  of  thorn  having  been  put  on 
by  the  government  for  the  benefit  of  the  rock-salt 
and  bitumen  trade. 

We  were  also  impressed  with  the  fact  that  we  were 
standing  on  or  near  the  site  once  occupied  by  the 
wicked  cities  of  Sodom  and  Gomorrah;  for  it  is  now 
generally  agreed  among  scholars  that  these  cities 
were  situated  on  tiie  northwestern  shore  of  the  sea. 
This  site  seems  to  better  fill  all  the  requirements 
of  the  Scripture  narrative.  The  fact  that  not  a  ves- 
tige of  the  cities  themselves  is  to  be  found,  unless 
some  mounds  there  should  prove  to  contain  their 
ruins,  only  shows  that  when  God  engages  in  the  work 
of  destruction  he  does  his  work  well.  Yet  there  are  not 
lacking  visible  evidences  of  existence  here  of  the  ma- 
terial means  with  which  God  overthrew  these  cities. 
While  the  "slime  pits,"  or  more  correctly  speaking, 
the  bitumen  pits,  are  now  probably  occupied  by  the 
sea,  bitumen  and  sulphur  are  both  found  here.  Springs 
of  petroleum  are  also  here,  "and  this,  when  hardened, 
becomes  asphalt.''  We  procured  beautiful  speci- 
mens of  these  substances. 

The  Hebrew  word  in  the  sacred  text  translated 
"brimstone"  is  thought  by  some  scholars  to  be  a  gen- 
eral term  including  all  these  inflammable  substances; 
and  hence  it  was  only  necessary  for  God  to  unite 


A  VISIT  TO  THE   DEAD  SEA  189 

miraculous  power  with  the  natural  means  already  at 
hand  to  produce  the  complete  destruction  of  these 
cities  with  "brimstone  and  fire." 

We  may  fittingly  conclude  this  letter  with  the 
words  of  Lieutenant  Lynch,  of  the  American  Expe- 
dition, who  fully  explored  this  remarkable  sea.  He 
says:  "Everything  said  in  the  Bible  about  the 
Dead  Sea  and  the  Jordan,  we  believe  to  be  fully 
verified  by  our  observations." 


LETTER  XXXII. 


A  VISIT  TO   THE   JORDAN. 

Having  finished  our  observations  at  the  Dead  Sea 
we  rode  away  across   the  pJain   in  a  northeastern 
direction  to  the  Jordan,  at  the  Pilgrim's   Bathing 
I  luce,  whicli  is  about  four  miles  from  the  mouth  of 
tlie  river.     VVe  were  one  hour  riding  the  distance, 
naching  there  at  10:30  a.  m.     Soon  after  leaving  the 
Dead  Sea  we   entered  the  second  bed  of  the  Jordan 
over  which  the  water    flows  during  the  flood  season' 
and  rode  along  the   bank   of  the  river  to  the  ford 
Scattering  bushes  of  various  kinds  and  tufts  of  tall 
native  grass  bordered  our   path,  which  was  dry  and 
firm.   During  the  rainy  season  this  road  is  so  muddy 
that   It   IS   almost   impassable.     During   the  entire 
length  uf  the  Jordan  as  it  winds  its  way  through  th^ 
plain    Its  immediate  banks  are  lined  with  trees  and 
undergrowth,    in    some    places   forming    a  regular 
jungle,  making  it  difficult   for  you  to  creep  through 
It,  and  hiding  the  river  from  view  till   you  come  to 
the  very  water's  edge.     At  the  bathing  place,  how- 
ever,  near  where  the  road  crosses,  there  is  a  compar- 
atively good  view  of  the  river  for  a   few   hundred 
yards. 

Great  interest  centres  at  this  point.  It  is  probably 

It/U 


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'■  A  VISIT    TO    TWi;    .lOKJiAN  1<)1 

hf^re  where  i\\>)  Isrnclitcs  '^pasHtnl  o\t  r"  (»,-   fordan, 
!,  ''ri)t;ht  agpinst -l(<ri<'ho.  "  It  \^f.B  horr^  thttl  h  '  jah  and 

Eliriha  Htnote  th*^  wuinrs  wi<  li  iho  f«'rr-mr'r  mantle 
and  went  '••overt."  '^cv  vr<'iif.;i.  '  ,M:<i  .;»  .1  more 
interesting  to  kjmw,  it  i?»  d'.Mibt.lebH  i  hi  jtiuce  where 
John  t!jw  Hnpt  iiif  hA[)tj/'.ed  thu  ;nu'tilu<lo.-',  ;n!d  where 
.iosiiy  tmns^.dt'  -vu^  liaptized.  Thttre  Im  plenty  of  room 
■J-'  tor  the  pe^iv.it^  to  eoiu'r^^^iTntc,  nj-.-t  dwrint.-'tv^'  drv  sea- 

y<m  it  '  ■>  .'^  M.'r^r'itu'f'  «i(*i      V    •  'ni)' .:  Mv      VhiJe  in 

•     .r.  '    ^m-^:^'  ,^r     .«,  r.  [)UrpOSe, 

al     jL  "  ,        '  ipe^nul- 

ii>il  tc   lilt     ,      .  not  too 

stronjj  l';!r  li;ii'!  v..w>;  .- *■       ■  ;•'  ease.     I 

-'                            h;ivy  rr^Tjiieuiiy  i/ajii  t/ 'ti  ftH.M.,r'     •■(  ..-■:  farinorf 

-■*  ^•'     '!  !<hiOi'8,   MmviM  h.'i'u  '>ri"(:  ivi|.iisiii.- ;i,ive  taken 

-•-  -'  ^>-       '  .—V'.  ■'  '■'  )••  '■•■      ''    '»•■-'*  !>>'   '•■.  De  Witt 

^-  '  ,K                       "            ■                     ■  "  ca  in  tlie 

i   J  tA      %<           ■     '                    ,.  jifhculty 

■J)    ;>*v-  -^  Hands   of 

*•                            pti^ri:*?.           -              •                   -  many    of 

\  liHiu  i'l  <«-i..    :v  -  Ininie- 

"                           diately  .'ir  i'"f     :*•    ■  "  -  -  ialenillu' 

'.f»;\i  i  riivtvi*'.,  »r,  7  'encani])- 

)  ■■■  _          ihv    '  i  ;'^     <  vvitli  ])ine 

>.''<    •'?<-   •  '►  -s      '■.   ^          ••  spectacle. 

-       >  ;  .^;  .K   V     ■'  i   !*      ;•  ling,   at  a 

.  '    ,1,1    J.<'          ■•    ik-  ;  ^'V^'  '    ,  iiitr   p|u(te 

..■•:•  |n  ;.'-<^  !■.    Oi.'  liM  .\  \'.' >•';  •  i<i   <» M  :  )nn<i?,  ri(di 

%  .  .iip'H,;.  V  ;<  ii''u!.  !uu>'h   r''.';i-'']  i ■  •  prnjui' (y,  plunj^i' 

%                             );ji"a  }•!"  '.M.  isfiiuu -i  >>:'t!i.      '\\>'-  -:••  iM-  'la-'  l)een  vari- 

f                            .i'.  ;jv  <l''scri!»<'d  i)y  munv  ti-!i'.,''l!"(>    ^\ii'*  -ifiirni  thai 


1 


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.^J^JTJr'. 


S. 


i'!: 


A  VISIT   TO   THE   JOUDAN  191 

here  where  the  Israelites  ''passed  over"  the  Jordan, 
"right  against  Jericho."  It  was  here  that  Elijah  and 
Elisha  smote  the  waters  with  the  former's  mantle 
and  went  "over  on  dry  ground."  And  still  more 
interesting  to  know,  it  is  doubtless  the  place  where 
John  the  Baptist  baptized  the  multitudes,  and  whf^re 
Jesus  himself  was  baptized.  There  is  plenty  of  room 
for  the  people  to  congregate,  and  during  the  dry  sen- 
son  it  is  an  admirable  place  for  baptizing.  While  in 
some  parts  the  water  is  too  deep  for  this  purpose, 
at  other  points  the  bottom  is  pel)bly,  the  slope  grad- 
ual to  the  proper  depth,  and  the  current  not  too 
strong  for  baptizing  with  perfect  safety  and  ease.  I 
have  frequently  baptized  scores  of  people  in  far  inorc 
difficult  places.  More  than  once  baptisms  have  taken 
place  at,  or  near,  this  point  In  1881)  Or  T.  I)e  Witt 
Talmage  immersed  a  young  man  from  America  in  tim 
Jordan  at  this  ford,  and  he  experienced  no  difficulty 
in  performing  the  act.  Every  year  thousands  of 
pilgrims  bathe  in  the  river  at  this  place,  many  of 
tiiem  being  immersed  by  the  Greek  priests.  Imme- 
diately after  the  Easter  ceremonies  at  Jerusalem  the 
great  caravan  starts  for  this  ford,  and  their  encam]»- 
ment  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  lighted  with  i)ine 
torches,  presents  a  curious  and  interesting  s])ectaclp. 
An  eye-witness  says:  "Early  in  the  morning,  at  a 
given  signal,  the  i)ilgrims  leave  their  resting  pia(!e 
and  proceed  to  the  river,  when  old  and  younir,  v'm'M 
and  poor,  without  much  regard  to  ])roprioty,  plunge 
into  a  promis(uiouH  batli.  TIk!  scimh^  lias  been  vari- 
ously described  by  many  trav»jllurs,  wlio  affirm  thai 


.  i 


102  OUR   TOUR   AROUND   THE   WORLD 

the  Greeks  attach  deep  religious  sigDificance  to  the 
ceremony,  which  is  to  them  the  source  of  many  bless- 
ings." Another  writer  says:  ''The  priests  wade  into 
the  water  breast-deep  and  dip  into  the  stream  the 
men,  women  and  children  as  they  approach  in  their 
white  garments.  Some  of  the  pilgrims  fill  jars  from 
the  river  to  be  used  for  baptisms  at  home."  The 
American  Consul  at  Jerusalem  is  a  Presbyterian 
preacher,  and  his  wife  told  us  with  delight  how  she 
had  her  first-born  infant  sprinkled  a  short  time  be- 
fore our  visit  with  the  sacred  water  brought  from 
the  Jordan.  Of  course  we  followed  the  example  of  the 
l)ilgrims,  taking  a  bath.  The  only  lady  pilgrim  of  our 
party  donned  a  white  dress,  waded  in  and  dipped 
herself  seven  times,  in  imitation  of  Naaman's  dip- 
ping, probably  at  this  place.  As  the  writer  was 
nbout  to  enter  the  water  the  dragoman,  sheikh  and 
the  muleteer  all  joined  in  persuading  him  to  hold  on  to 
a  long  rope  which  they  had  provided.  To  allay  their 
fears  he  did  so,  but  soon  they  said:  ''We  don't  need 
to  look  after  him,  he  can  swim."  We  also,  like  the 
other  pilgrims,  took  a  bottle  of  water  to  bring  home 
with  us,  but  not  for  baptismal  purposes. 

The  Jordan  is  in  some  respects  a  peculiar  river, 
and  coupled  with  its  sacred  associations,  it  becomes 
an  intensely  interesting  one.  Its  extreme  length  is 
187  miles.  It  is  05  miles  in  a  straight  line  from  the 
Sea  of  Galilee  to  the  Dead  Sea,  and  yet  so  crooked 
is  the  river  that  in  going  that  distance  it  actually 
runs  200  miles.  It  runs  to  almost  every  point  of 
the  compass,    and  where  we  saw  it,    its   flow   is   so 


& 


1 


A  VISIT  TO  THE   JORDAN  193 

smooth  that  we  could  scarcely  hear  a  ripple   as   we 
stood  on  its  bank.  The  river  varies  in  width  during 
the   year  from  thirty  to  sixty  yards,  and  during  the 
"i  dry  season    it  is   from  three   to   twelve   feet   dee]). 

"  The  water  was  so  muddy  that  the  bottom  could  not 

I  be  seen  any  where.  It  is  no  wonder  Naaman  preferrb! 

to  dip  himself  in  the  clear  waters  of  his  own    Abana 

and  Pharpar. 

We  spread  our  lunch  in  the  shade  of  the  trees  and 
ate  it  with  much  satisfaction.  We  then  spent  some 
time  pushing  our  way  through  the  luilrushes,  re- 
minding us  of  the  cane-brakes  of  Louisiana,  and 
cutting  sticks  from  the  thick  forest  to  bring  home 
with  us.  I  am  not  surprised  tJiat  the  lion  in  olden 
times  lurked  in  these  jungles.  It  is  a  fit  place  for 
wild  animals,  and  some  of  the  more  harmless  kinds 
are  still  found  there. 

We  returned  to  Jericho  at  8  p.  m.,  and  after  a 
short  rest  we  rode  out  to  see  Elislia's  Fountain,  a 
short  distance  northwest  from  the  present  Jericho. 
This  is  undoubtedly  the  spring  which  the  prophet 
Elisha  healed,  an  account  of  which  we  have  in  II. 
Kings  ii.  19-22.  It  is  a  beautiful  spring,  ])urstini^ 
forth  copiously  from  the  earth  and  forming  a  i)ond 
surrounded  by  a  stone  wall.  We  took  along,  refresh- 
ing draught  from  it  and  decided  that  it  was  the  best 
water  we  had  tasted  thus  far  on  our  journey.  Ini- 
mediatelv  below  the  fountain  there  was  a  respectable 
Arab  grist-mill  in  full  operation.  Its  Idack  owner 
showed  us  through  it  with  much  satisfaction.  On 
the  banks  of  the  stream,  between  the  mill    and  the 


n 


194 


OUR  TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD 


village  of  Jericho,  the  Russians  have  located  a  con- 
vent and  a  school,  and  the  vegetation  siuTounding 
them  is  luxuriant  This  perennial  fountain  in  proper 
hands  would  be  made  to  turn  this  whole  plain  into  a 
beautiful  garden.  Near  PZlisha's  Fountain  can  be 
seen  the  remains  of  ancient  Jericho. 

Just  back  of  the  spring  rises  up  conspicuously 
Quarantana,  the  mountain  on  which  tradition  has 
located  the  temptation  of  Jesus,  and  from  the  top  of 
which  mav  be  had  a  fine  view.  The  name,  which 
means  forty,  was  given  to  the  mountain  by  the  Cru- 
saders in  the  twelfth  century  with  reference  to  our 
Lord's  forty  days'  fast.  Near  the  summit  the  moun- 
tain is  honeycombed  with  hermitages;  but  the  her- 
mits have  forsaken  these  gloomy  abodes.  After  all, 
tradition  is  probably  wrong  in  the  selection  of  this 
mountain  as  the  mountain  on  which  Jesus  was 
tempted,  for  it  does  not  seem  to  meet  all  the  require- 
ments of  the  Scriptures. 

As  we  returned  to  our  hotel  we  gathered  some  curi- 
ous fruit  called  the  fipple  of  Sodom,  and  passed  a 
Bedouin  Arab  encampment  with  its  cniuers  hair 
tents,  complement  of  barking  dc^gs,  etc.  The  frogs 
in  a  pool  near  by,  the  dogs  and  the  Arabs  made  the 
night  lively  for  us. 

We  arose  early  next  morning  and  returned  to  Jeru- 
salem. We  arrived  at  Bethany  at  11  a.  m.,  and  in- 
stead of  going  right  into  Jerusalem  we  preferred  to 
spread  our  lunch  under  olive  trees  on  that  part  of  the 
Mount  of  Olives  near  Bethany  from  which  we  believe 
our  Saviour  ascended  into  heaven.   Here  we  released 


A  VISIT  TO  THE   JORDAN 


105 


I 


our  sheikh  escort,  his  term  of  service  having  expired. 
We  had  seen  him  a  short  time  before  in  close  consul- 
tation with  our  dragoman,  and  we  thon^ht  we  knew 
what  it  meant.  Sure  enough,  he  h.wl  insisted  that 
the  dragoman  should  inform  me  tliat  the  faithful 
sheikh  expected  hakhshuh.  I  told  the  sheikh  that 
he  was  a  rich  man  and  I  was  a  poor  preacher,  tluit  I 
had  already  paid  all  expenses  of  the  trip  to  the  Jor- 
dan through  Thomas  Cook  &  Son,  in(;luding  his  full 
salary,  and  that  he  ought  to  be  satisfied  with  his  pay 
according  to  the  agreement.  He  thought  over  the 
matter,  and  then  sat  down  close  beside  me  with  a 
pleasing  countenance  and  said  he  would  be  satisfied 
with  whatever  I  wished  to  give  him.  I  told  him  if 
he  would  stick  to  that  statement  I  would  make  him 
a  gift.  To  this  he  agreed.  I  then  took  (mt  my  purse 
and  with  great  dignity  presented  liim  with  one  franc! 
The  mingled  feelings  of  astonishment,  amusement 
and  disgust  depicted  in  the  man's  face  afforded  a 
rare  study  to  all  of  us.  He  went  behind  an  olive 
tree  and  pouted  like  a  ten-year  oM  boy  w  ho  had  been 
denied  a  fishing  excursion  on  which  he  had  set  his 
heart.  But  I  stood  firm,  and  he  finally  conclu<led 
to  laugh  and  bid  us  a  hearty  good-bye.  The  sheikh 
had  taken  special  delight  in  lifting  the  lady  trotter 
from  her  horse  a  number  of  times,  and  for  this  atten- 
tion lie  probably  thought  he  should  have  extra  pay. 
But  I  thought  the  privilege  of  thus  making  use  of 
his  dusky  hands  was  ample  pay. 

Bethany  contains  about  forty  hovels  inhabited  by 
Mohammedans.     It  is  beautifully  situated  on   the 


■'\ 


196 


OUR  TOUR  AROUND   THE   WORLD 


;  I  southeastern  spur  of  the  Mount  of  Olives,  and  is  sur- 

j  j  rounded  by  numerous  oJive,  fig  and  carob  trees.   We 

saw  in  Bethany  the  tomb  of  Lazarus  and  the  house 
in  which  Mary  and  Martha  lived.  Our  faith  in  their 
identity  was  weak ;  though  the  house  of  the  sisters 
could  not  have  stood  far  from  the  spot,  and  we  ex- 
amined a  cave  a  few  hundred  yards  away  which 
jj  seemed  to  us  to  fill  the  Scripture  narrative  of  the 

burial  and  resurrection  place  of  Lazarus.  We  then 
rode  over  the  Mount  of  Olives,  by  the  Garden  of 
Gethsemana,  down  the  Valley  of  Jehoshaphat,  up 
the  Valley  of  Hinnom  to  cur  hotel  near,  the  Joppa 
Gate,  where  we  arrived  tired  and  sun-tanned. 


I    _ 


LETTER  XXXIII. 

I  A  VISIT   TO  BETHLEHEM. 

We  will  lonve  Jerusalem  again  for  the  present, 
while  we  visit  some  other  points  of  interest;  and 
there  is  no  place  outside  of  Jerusalem  and  its  envi- 
rons more  interesting  to  us  than  the  town  of  Bethle- 
hem, where  David  lived,  and  in  which  our  Saviour 
was  born.     Let  us,  tlierefore,  visit  it. 

Bethlehem  is  situated  slightly  west  of  south  from 
Jerusalem,  and  only  six  miles  distant.  When  you 
stand  on  the  highest  point  of  the  Mount  of  Olives, 
you  turn  toward  Bethlehem,  expecting  to  catch  a 
glimpse  of  it ;  hut  you  are  disappointed.  Owing  to 
an  intervening  ridge,  the  only  thing  you  can  see  in  it 
is  the  spire  of  one  of  the  churches  in  the  western  end 
of  the  town.  Our  carriage  leaves  Jerusalem  at  the 
Joppa  gate,and  we  descend  into  the  Valley  ofGihon, 
crossing  on  a  stone  bridge  which  divides  this  valley 
from  the  Valley  of  Hinnom,  on  our  left.  Ascending 
from  the  valley  by  a  winding  road,  we  enter  the  Plain 
of  Rephaim,  where  David  twice  defeated  the  Philis- 
tines, We  pass  the  railway  station  on  the  right  and 
follow  the  beautiful  level  road  which  extends  all  the 
way  to  Bethlehem.  On  both  sides  of  the  road  are 
well  cultivated   fields  of  ripe  wheat,  green  durrah, 

197 


198  OUIi   TOUR   AROUND   THE  WORLD 

olive  groves,  and  vineyards,  enclosed  by  fences  made 
of  stones  laid  loosely  on  top  of  one  another.  Alorg 
the  road  we  met  numbers  of  men,  women  and  chil- 
dreiijsome  on  foot  and  others  riding  camels  and  don- 
keys, which  were  loaded  with  brush,  wheat  and  other 
articles  for  the  Jerusalem  markets.  At  the  farther 
end  of  the  plain  we  came  to  a  well  in  the  edge  of  the  i 

road  which  is  pointed  out  as  the  well  of  the  Magi, so 
call  jd  because  tradition  says  that  the  wise  men  drank 
from  it  and  saw  reflected  in  the  water  the  star  that 
was  guiding  them  to  the  Divine  Babe  of  Bethlehem. 
We  now  ascend  to  the  top  of  the  above-named  in- 
tervening ridge,  from  which  we  obtain  a  fine  view  of 
Bethlehem  to  the  south,  and  Jerusalem  to  the  north 
of  us.     Bethlehem  looks  especially  pretty  from  this 
point  of  view.     On  the  left  is  a  large  building  be- 
longing to  the  Greeks,  called  Mar  Elyas,  or  Convent 
of  Elijah.     On  our  right,  by  the  roadside,  is  a  de- 
pression in  a  ledge  of  limestone  rock,  which  we  are 
told  was  caused  by  the  Virgin   Mary  reclining  here 
to  rest,  as  the  holy  family  passed  that  way.   A  little 
farther  along,  on  our   left,  is   a  deep    valley  sloping 
down  from  the  road  which  is  pointed  out  as  the  place 
where  the  angels  appeared  to  the  shepherds  by  night 
when  Jesus  was  born.     The  lower  end  of  the  valley, 
now  green  with  durrah,  is  said  to  be  the   field  of 
Boaz,  in  which  Ruth  gleaned  wheat.     We  saw  some 
women  gleaning  not  far  away.     We  next  come  to 
the  tomb  of  Rachel,  a  small,  stone, house-like  build- 
ing, with  a  whitewashed  dome,  which  is  thought  by 
many  to  occupy  the  true  site  of  Rachel's  tomb;  but 


A    VTSIT    TO  BETHLEHEM  199 

by  others  this  site  is  disputed.  If  this  is  not  the 
true  site, Rachel's  ^^rave,  accordii)g  totlie  Scriptures, 
could  not  have  been  farawa}'.  Here  the  road  to  Beth- 
lehem turns  to  the  left,  and  the  other  branch  leads 
straight  on  to  Solomon's  Pools  and  Hebron. 

Bethlehem  is  built  on  a  ridge,  considerably  ele- 
vated, running  almost  east  and  west,  and  as  you  ap- 
proach it  you  are  attracted  by  the  beautiful  terraces 
along  the  side  of  this  riclge,  which  are  formed  by 
building  stone  walls  parallel  to  the  hill  so  as  to  level 
the  ground  between  the  terraces,  which  are  thickly 
set  with  olive  and  fig  trees  and  vineyards.  Scattered 
about  in  these  cultivated  fields,  groves  and  vineyards, 
are  stone  watch-towers,  affording  us  illustrations  of 
the  Scripture  watch-towers. 

As  we  are  about  to  enter  the  town,  we  turn  a  few 
steps  to  the  left  of  the  road  to  see  David's  Well, 
from  which  David  longed  to  have  a  cool  drink  when 
Bethlehem  was  held  by  his  enemies.  It  will  be  re- 
membered how  three  of  his  mighty  men  fought  their 
way  through  the  Philistines'  lines,  procured  the 
water  and  brought  it  to  David,  and  how  he  refused 
to  drink  it,  but  poured  it  out  as  a  thank  offering  un- 
to the  Lord.— II.  Sam.  xxiii.  14-17.  The  well  is  now 
enclosed  by  a  stone  wall,  has  a  care-taker  to  whom  a 
small  admission  fee  must  be  paid;  and  the  water  is 
cool  and  refreshing.  Here  we  noticed  the  superior 
beauty  of  the  Bethlehem  women,  as  they  gathered 
about  us  to  ask  for  bakhshuh,  and  noted  their  pecu- 
liar style  of  head-dress,  which  distinguishes  them 
from  the  other  native  women  of  Palestine.     These 


•200 


OUU  TOUB  AKOtlNI)  THB  «<)BU' 


ij 


Bethlehem.te.s  claim  to  be  the  descendants  of  the 
Crnsaders  and  thus  it  is  that  they  are  celebrated  for 
their  ruddy  beauty  and  warlike  disp<«itions. 

On  entering  the  town,  we  Hnd  the  streets  narrow 
ant  crooked,  and   the  houses,  which  are  built  of  a 
yellowish  white  limestone,  are  crowded  together  and 
are  poorly   lighted  and  ventilated.     The  fresh  ap- 
pearance  of  the  new  part  of  the  town  presents  a 
pleasing  contrast  to  the  weather-beaten   houses  of 
the  old  Bethlehem.  Our  carriage  went  bumping  over 
the  uneven   lane  called  a  street,  while  the  people 
stood  with  their   backs  to  the  wall,  or  squatted   in 
the  door  of  their  little  shops  or  homes  with   (heir 
feet  drawn  under  them  to  avoid  being  hit  bvthe  flv- 
n.g  wheels  of   our   vehicle.     Passing    thro'ugh   the 
small  bazaar,  filled  with  a  curious  people,  we  alighted 
in  front  of  the  Church  of  the  Nativity. 

This  extensive,  irregular  and  indescribable  mass 
of  buildings  is  situated  in  the  eastern  end  of  (he 
town  and  looks  much  like  an  old  fortress.  Yet  an 
excellent  publication  just  from  the  press,  entitled. 
Early  Footsteps  of  the  Man  of  Galilee,"  by  Bishop 
JohnH.  Vincent  and  other  able  scholars,  says  the 
Church  of  the  Nativity  is  "situated  in  the  western 
part  of  Bethlehem."  The  late  edition  of  Baedeker's 
able  guide-book  on  Palestine  and  Syria  makes  the 
same  curious  mistake.  Surely  when  these  great  schol- 
ars  de  iberately  write  down  and  publish  this  ine.xcu. 
sable  blunder,  (he  "higher  critics"  should  be  slow 
to  find  fault  with  the  Bible,  which  makes  no  such 
mistakes.     This   is  not  the  only  mistake  we  have 


A  VISIT  TO    BETHLEHEM 


201 


fioted  in  bcxjks  and  newspaper  articles  on   Palestine. 

A  little  way  to  the  west  of  this  group  of  buildings 
are  situated  several  respectable  shops,  in  whicii  are 
manufactured  and  sold  rosaries,  crosses  and  various 
other  articles  in  olive  wood,  corals,  niothor-of-])earl, 
and  stink-stone  from  the  Dead  Sef.  A  visit  to  these 
shops  will  prove  interesting.  Wo  n.^de  some  ])ur- 
chases.  One  of  these  shopkeepers  was  at  the  Chicago 
World's  Fair  and  took  a  premium  on  his  gobds.  Beth- 
lehem has  a  population  of  about  8,000,  the  great 
body  of  whom  are  Greek  and  Roman  Catholics. 

In  our  next  letter  we  will  examine  more  fully  the 
traditional  birthplace  of  our  Saviour. 


LETTER  XXXIV. 

IN  THE  CHURCH    OF  THE  NATIVITY. 

The  main  entrance  to  this  cluster  of  buildings, 
comprising  the  Greek  Church,  the  Latin  Church, 
and  the  Greek,  Latin,  and  Armenian  monasteries, 
is  on  tiie  west,  through  a  heavy,  narrow  door,  only 
about  four  feet  high,  standing  in  an  archway  of 
stone.  Stooping  to  pass  through  this  door,  you  en- 
ter the  Cluirch  of  St.  Mary,  proper  It  is  built  over 
a  cave  in  which  tradition  claims  .Jesus  was  born. 
Tlie  original  building,  which  has  undergone  many 
changes,  is  a  very  old  one.  It  was  probably  erected 
by  order  of  the  Emperor  Constantine,  about  three 
hundred  and    thirty  years  after  tlie  birth  of  Christ. 

The  Church  is  built  in  the  shape  of  a  Latin  cross, 
and  the  style  is  plain  and  simple.  You  pass  over 
the  stone-paved  floor  betw-een  five  rows  of  lofty  col- 
umns formed  of  single  stones,  some  of  which  are  said 
to  have  been  taken  from  Solomon's  Temple,  and  on 
the  walls  you  notice  the  remains  of  ancient,  faded 
mosaics,  depicting  various  scenes  in  the  early  history 
of  Christianity,  which  must  have  been  very  beauti- 
ful when  whole  and  fresh.  It  is  also  claimed  that  the 
roof  is  formed  of  "beams  of  rough  cedar  from  Leba- 
non."    The  great  altar  in  the  eastern  end  of  th(j 

^2 


IN    THE   CHURCH   OF  THE   NATIVITY  2U8 

Church  is  screened  by  a  partition  thrown  across  the 
building  over  which  can  he  seen  the  top  of  the  cross 
above  the  altar.  Passing  through  a  door  in  this 
screen,  you  stand  face  to  face  with  this  elegant  altar, 
whose  costly  lamps  and  l)rilliant  decorations  are 
chiefly  the  gifts  of  kings,  queens  and  other  distin- 
guished persons  from  various  parts  of  the  world. 
About  this  altar  are  clustered  the  throne  of  the  Greek 
Patriarch,  the  pulpit,  seats  for  the  Greek  clergy,  and 
Greek  choir.  On  each  side  of  the  platform  on  which 
the  altar  stands  is  a  flight  of  steps  leading  down  into 
the  Grotto  of  the  Nativity.  Descending  six  steps 
from  the  left  of  the  platform,  we  found  ourselves  in 
what  is  called  the  Chapel  of  the  Nativity,  an  irregu- 
larly shaped  cavern  about  thirteen  and  one-half  yards 
long,  four  yards  wide,  and  ten  feet  high,  in  which 
are  burning  thirty-two  lamps.  The  floor  is  of  mar- 
ble, and  the  walls  are  of  masonry  lined  with  marble 
and  decorated  with  figures  of  saints,  einl)roidery,  etc. 
On  our  right  is  a  semicircular  recess  in  which  a  sil- 
ver star  is  let  into  a  marble  slab  in  the  pavement, 
marking  the  very  spot  where  Jesus  is  said  to  have 
been  born;  and  this  fact  is  expressed  by  tliese  Latin 
words  extending  partly  around  the  star:  Hie  de 
Virgine  Ma  rid  Jesus  Christus  natiis  c'4.  Over  this 
recess  we  counted  sixteen  silver  lamps,  kept  con- 
stantly burning,  some  of  which  belong  to  the  Greeks, 
some  to  the  Latins,  and  the  others  to  the  Armenians, 
all  of  whom  have  a  special  interest  in  this  sacred 
spot.  We  descend  three  steps  to  the  opposite  side  of 
the  chapel  and  we  are  shown  the  manger  in  which 


!    I      ! 


204  0(1  K   TOirR  AROtrpfD  THE  WORLD 

Jesua  was  cradled.  It  is  made  of  marble,  the  bottom 
being  white  and  the  front  brown,  and  over  which 
I  !  eight  lamps  are  burning.     For  eight  days    during 

Christmas-time  a  richly  decorated  wax  doll  is  laid  in 
the  mauger,and  is  placed  on  exhibition  by  the  priests, 
while  thousands  of  the  superstitious  people  worship 
it.  This  cradle  is  not,  however,  the  genuine  manger; 
that  one,  it  is  claimed,  was  found  by  the  Empress 
Helena  and  carried  off  to  Rome.  The  Empress  seems 
to  have  been  a  remarkably  successful  relic  hunter. 
She  has  discovered  almost  every  object  connected 
with  the  birth  and  crucifixion  of  Jesus,  even  to  the 
nails  with  which  he  and  the  thieves  were  fastened  to 
the  cross!  We  would  not  have  been  surprised  if  our 
guide  had  pointed  out  the  remains  of  the  very  don- 
key which  ate  out  of  the  manger  in  which  the  Babe 
of  Bethlehem  was  laid. 

By  following  the  windings  of  the  cave,  we  visit 
various  other  chapels  and  tombs,  in  close  proximity 
to  the  Grotto  of  the  Nativity,  such  as  the  Altar  of 
the  Magi,  the  spot  where  the  wise  men  of  the  East 
presented  their  gifts;  the  Chapel  of  Joseph,  into 
which  he  retired  at  the  moment  of  the  nativity;  the 
Altar  of  the  Innocents,  where  a  large  number  of  the 
children  massacred  by  Herod  are  buried;  the  Tomb 
of  Eusehius,  the  church  historian,  and  the  Chapel 
I     i  aiid  Tomb  of  Jerome.   There  is  no  doubt  that  Jerome 

lived  and  labored  in  Bethlehem  during  the  latter  part 
of  the  fourth  and  the  beginning  of  the  fifth  centuries, 
and  he  possibly  lived  as  a  hermit  in  this  cave.  It 
was  also  here  that  he  did  much  of  his  writing,  pro- 


I 


IN  THE  CHURCH    OF  THK  NATIVITY  205 

diicing,  in  all  probability,  his  famous  Latin  transla- 
tion of  the  Hible,  known  as  the  Vulgate.  He  died 
here  in  A.  1)   420. 

While  we  were  examining  these  saered  ])lace8,  a 
Turkiah  soldier  came  round  with  a  candle  to  see  if 
any  valuable  thing  was  taken.  He  makes  this  round 
a  number  of  times  each  day. 

Returning  to  the  floor  of  the  Chuioh,  we  notice  a 
Turkish  sentinel  stationed  near  the  great  altar,  whose 
duty  it  is  to  see  that  the  different  sects  do  not  fi^^ht 
when  they  come  to  worship  at  the  manger.  The 
Greeks  have  the  lion's  share  about  the  Church  of  the 
Nativity;  but  for  the  accommodation  of  the  Latins, 
a  path  on  the  bare  floor,  about  three  feet  wide,  leads 
from  their  Church  through  part  of  the  Greek  Church, 
to  the  manger;  and  woe  be  to  the  Latin  priest  who 
sets  his  bare  foot  outside  of  this  path  on  to  the  Greek 
carpet  "Behold  how  these  Christians  love  one  an- 
other!" 

Was  Jesus  born  here?  The  objection  based  on  the 
Bible  statement  that  he  was  born  in  Bethlehem,  to 
my  mind,  does  not  carry  much  weight  with  it.  The 
site  is  much  nearer  Bethlehem  than  I  anticipated, 
and  I  think  it  sufficiently  near  to  have  justified  the 
inspired  writer  in  locating  it  in  Bethlehem.  But 
in  my  opinion  the  strong  improbability  that  Jesus 
was  b jrn  ill  a  caoe,  is  fatal  to  the  traditional  site. 
That  he  could  not  have  been  born  far  from  this  spot 
is  certain;  and  tliis  fact  brought  before  us  afresh  the 
pioluro  of  the  wonderful  event  fraught  with  so  many 
rich  blessings   to  mankind,  and  tilled   us  with  joy 


206 


OVU    TOUK   AKOUND   THE   WORLD 


i  i    i 


.i 


akin  to  that  possessed  by  the  shepherds  when  the 
angel  said  to  them,  "Behold,  I  bring  you  good  tid- 
ings of  great  joy,  which  shall  be  to  all  people;  for 
unto  you  is  born  this  day  in  the  city  of  David  a 
Saviour,  which  is  Christ  the  Lord." 

From  Bethlehem  we  drove  down  to  Solomon's 
Pools,  two  miles  farther  on,  and  examined  these 
three  immense  reservoirs,  all  of  which  were  partly 
filled  with  water.  They  are  all  in  splendid  preserva- 
tion. The  largest  one  is  582  feet  long,  207  feet  wide 
at  one  end  and  148  feet  wide  at  the  other  end,  and 
50  feet  deeji  ut  the  lower  end.  When  full,  it  would 
Winxt  a  large  man-of-war.  At  one  time  the  water 
from  the  spring  connected  with  these  pools  was  con- 
veyed in  an  aqueduct  to  the  temple  at  Jerusalem.  I 
procunul  a  piece  of  the  earthen  pipe  as  a  memento. 
Native  women  were  taking  water  out  of  a  well  near 
llie  upper  pool,  and  we  took  our  first  drink  out  of  a 
Scripture  bottle — a  goat-skin  The  women  insisted 
that  Mrs.  Trotter  should  remove  her  glove  so  that 
they  might  touch  her  white  hand  with  their  black 
ones.     This  greatly  pleased  them. 

As  we  returned  to  Jerusalem  we  saw,  a  little  way 
to  our  left,  a  fresh  looking  town,  surrounded  by 
beautiful  olive  groves,  which  is  inhabited  mainly  by 
Christians.  It  is  probably  the  Scripture  Giloh,  the 
home  of  Ahithophel,  David's  special  counselor.  We 
also  saw  shepherds  in  this  hill  country  of  Judea  keep- 
ing watch  over  their  flocks  by  day. 

Bethlehem  had  a  peculiar  fascination  for  us;  so 
much  so,  indeed,  that   we  were  constrained  to  visit 


IN  THE   CHURCH  OF  THE  NATIVITY 


L'01 


it  a  second  time.  On  Sunday  morning  before  taking 
our  final  leave  of  Jerusalem,  we  drove  out  to  Bethle- 
hem, and  witnessed  in  the  Church  of  the  Nativity 
what  few  travellers  have  the  privilege  of  seeing. 
While  examining  the  Latin  Church  we  noticed  a 
.  lest  meet  a  native  woman  at  the  door  who  had  a 
young  child  in  her  arms,  and  conduct  her  toward 
the  baptismal  font,  reading  Latin  as  he  went.  He  was 
joined  at  the  font  by  a  second  priest, who  assisted  in 
a  long  ceremony  from  the  Latin  prayer  book.  Finally 
the  mother  held  the  infant  in  a  horizontal  ])()!=i- 
tion  over  the  font,  which  was  about  two  feet  in 
diameter,  and  one  of  the  priests  took  up  a  silver 
pitcher  containing  about  a  quart  of  water  and  jioured 
the  contents  over  the  little  head  of  the  babe,  com- 
pletely drenching  it.  He  then  wiped  the  head  dry 
with  a  handkerchief,  applied  a  f'.w  drops  of  oil  to 
the  forehead  of  the  infant,  and  the  ceremony  was 
completed.  The  child  took  the  pouring  good-natur- 
edly. There  were  present  only  the  mother,  a  small 
boy,  the  two  priests,  ourselves,  and  two  Bethlehem 
shop-keepers  who  accompanied  us.  The  Greeks  prac- 
tice immersion  only,  and  hence,  we  saw  in  their  di- 
vision of  this  great  Church  a  large  font  in  which  tho 
immersing  is  done. 

We  left  Bethlehem  with  regret,  and  we  took  our 
last,  lingering  look  at  it  as  our  carriage  passed  over 
the  dividing  ridge  toward  Jerusalem. 


LETTER  XXXV. 


WALKS     ABOUT    JERUSALEM. 


After  the  first  week  in  Jerusalem  we  moved  our 
headquarters  from  Howard's  Hotel,  outside  the  city, 
to  within  the  walls.  We  found  very  pleasant  quar- 
ters at  the  German  Hospice,  situated  on  the  corner 
of  the  Via  AWoro'^vi  and  Damascus  Street.  Our  spa- 
cious bedroom,  with  its  white  stone  floor,  partly 
covered  with  loose  mats,  was  huilt  across  Damascus 
Street, and  under  it  we  could  hear  the  noise  from  the 
street  late  at  night  and  early  in  the  morning.  Our 
special  servant  was  an  Arab  girl,  intelligent  and 
pleasant.  She  presented  the  little  trotter  with  a 
card,  on  which  she  had  made  a  beautiful  cross  of 
pressed  llowers,  gathered  about  the  city.  The  hospice 
was  kept  )iy  a  German  gentleman  and  his  family, 
all  of  whom  were  members  of  the  Lutheran  Church 
in  the  city.  They  furnished  a  good  tabh^ — except 
the  goat  Initter.  This  was  our  introdtiction  to  this 
article  of  food.  I  tasted  it  once,  after  which  I  gave 
Mrs.  Trotter  instructions  to  make  it  convenient  to 
keep  it  at  the  opposite  end  of  the  table.  I  could 
not  even  look  at  it  again  without  losing  my  appetite. 
It  had  a  loud  goaty  smell,  and  a  louder  taste.  I  told 
Mrs.  Trotter  she  was  falling  from  grace,  because  she 

m 


WALKS  ABOUT   JERUSALEM 


209 


persisted  in  eating  the  lard-looking  stull'.  No  won- 
der the  Bible  represents  the  wicked  as  goats.  I  seem 
to  smell  and  taste  this  butter  as  I  write.  I  will 
change  the  subject.  Here  also  we  met  a  Presbyte- 
rian clergyman  from  Brooklyn,  N.  Y., the  only  other 
boarder  at  the  hospice,  with  whom  we  had  several 
delightful  walks. 

We  arose  one  beautiful  morning  at  four  o'clock 
and  walked  to  the  highest  point  of  the  Mount  of 
Olives  to  see  the  sun  rise  from  behind  the  mountains 
of  Moab,  beyond  the  Jordan.  It  was  a  glorious  sight. 
At  the  northern  end  of  the  mountain  tliere  was  a 
threshing-floor  comprising  about  an  acre  of  ground, 
and  much  wheat  had  been  carried  there  ta  be 
tramped  out  by  the  beasts  of  burden.  The  Arab  watcli 
was  stretched  on  a  pile  of  straw,  and  we  walked 
almost  over  him  without  disturbing  his  slumbers. 
Near  the  summit  we  examined  a  Scripture  bake- 
oven.  It  was  built  of  stones  and  mud,  about  six 
feet  high  and  fifteen  feet  in  circumference  at  the  bot- 
tom, and  cone  shaped.  There  was  one  opening  near 
the  ground  about  three  feet  square.  The  fire  was 
built  in  the  centre  of  the  oven,  and  when  hot,  the 
dough  was  laid  on  projecting  stones  around  the  in- 
ner edge  of  the  oven  for  baking.  Near  by  we  saw 
large  quantities  of  the  droppings  of  cows  and  other 
animals  made  into  flat  cakes  and  stuck  on  the  sides 
of  the  houses  and  stone  fences  for  drying.  This  is 
the  principtil  fuel  for  l)rea(l-baking  The  Mount  of 
Olives  is  a  long, ridge-like  hill,  having  two  pronjinent 
summits  divided  by  a  saddle.  The  southern  summit 


LMO 


OUR   TOUR   AROUND   THE    WORLD 


overlooks  Betlniny,so  that  when  you  are  standing  on 
it  you  are  as  "far  as  Bethany"  without  being  in  the 
town.  It  was  evidently  from  this  point  that  Jesus 
ascended  into  heaven.  See  Luke  xxiv.  50,  51.  The 
ascent  of  the  mount  is  made  by  three  paths  from  the 
Garden  of  Gethseniane,  the  centre  one  leading  di- 
rectly to  the  summit,  and  the  other  two  inclining  to 
the  right  and  left. 

At  the  western  liase  of  this  mountain  is  situated 
the  Garden  of  Getiisemane,  enclosed  in  a  white- 
washed stone  wall  about  ten  feet  high,  and  includes 
about  half  an  acre  of  ground.  The  entrance  is 
through  a  grated  iron  door,  and  in  one  corner  is  a 
sort  of  house  occupied  by  the  Latin  monk  who  takes 
care  of  the  garden.  The  ground  is  divided  into  six 
squares  by  a  small  picket- fence,  and  cultivated  in 
beautiful  flowers  The  monk  supplied  us  with  a 
variety  of  seeds  from  wliich  we  have  successfully 
grown  some  of  these  flowers  Water  is  supplied  by 
a  well  in  the  center  of  tiie  garden,  dug  at  the  expense 
of  an  American  lady.  We  counted  in  the  garden 
eight  very  old  olive  trees.  Tliere  is  no  good  reason 
for  doubting  that  it  was  on  or  near  tliis  spot  where 
Jesus  was  l)etraye(l  by  Judas  with  a  kiss. 

As  we  returned  from  the  Mount  of  Olives  about  a 
dozen  women  were  sitting  at  intervals  along  the  road 
crossing  tlio  Kidron  VmIIpv  to  l>eg  of  us.  Th^>y  held 
out  tlieir  luinds  and  said  i)itirully,  "' /i^J.- A ^•^ /•</(,  i/a 
khaicftjd,'"  meaning,  "A  uifl,   ()  sir  "  Our  reply  was, 

' *  f,(i  I'd  I'll   If  i^-li ' "  —  "Nil  U" I '  I  .  " ' 

We   visited   t  ||.'  MoSijlle  (if  (  )in:ii",    or  in.  H'e  iMITecrt  ly , 

the  Dome  of  the   Kock,  wliich    occupies   tlie   site    of 


i 


ir 


WALKS  ABOUT  JERUSALEM 


211 


Solomon's  Temple,on  MouutMoriah.  Except  Mecca, 
there  is  no  more  sacred  place  in  the  world  to  the 
Mohammedans.  We  had  to  make  special  arrange- 
ments to  visit  it.  To  protect  us  from  all  harm,  we 
were  supplied  with  an  armed  Turlxish  soldier  and  the 
l)ody-guard  of  the  American  Consul.  And  yet  the 
place  is  gradiuilly  losing  some  of  its  sacredness.  A 
tew  years  ago  no  one  could  enter  the  Dome  without 
removing  the  shoes  from  the  feet;  but  we  wore  only 
required  to  j)ut  on  slippers  over  our  shoes.  The  nat- 
ural limestone  rock, of  irregular  shape, under  the  cen- 
tre of  the  great  dome,  about  50  feet  long,  40  feet  wide 
and  ().}  feet  high,  is  the  most  sacred  spot  of  all.  Yet 
in  a  small  cavern  immediately  under  the  sacred  rock 
we  saw  a  dirty  Arab  sound  asleep.  There  is  a  circu- 
lar hole  through  the  centre  of  the  rock,  and  tradition 
says  that  when  Mohammed  made  his  celebrated  flight 
to  heaven  from  the  cave  under  it,  the  hole  was  made 
by  his  body  passing  through  the  rock.  Mohammed 
must  iiave  been  a  hard-headed,  stiff-necked  prophet. 
This  rock  may  have  supported  the  altar  on  which 
Abraham  offered  his  son  Isaac,  and  over  it  some  im- 
portant part  of  the  Temple  probably  stood.  In  the 
Mosque  elAksa,  in  another  ])art  of  the  Haram  in- 
(dosure,  we  saw  near  the  beautifully  carved  pulpit 
two  marble  columns  standing  about  eight  inches 
.•ipaft,called  the  ''Strait  gate,"  or  "Gate  to  heaven." 
The  Mohammedans  say  no  one  who  can  not  pass 
between  the  columns  ctiw  enter  heaven.  During 
oiir  visit  the  gate  was  eloped,  so  we  did  not  have  the 
pleasure  of  going  to  heaven  that  way.    Had  the  gate 


212 


OUR   TOUR  AROUND   THE   WORLD 


been  open,  I  much  doubt  if  Mrs.  Trotter  could  have 
squeezed  between  the  posts,  and  the  thought  of  going 
to  heaven  and  leaving  her  on  the  outside  of  the  gate 
would  have  made  me  sad. 

On  Friday  in  the  afternoon  we  went  to  the  Wailing 
Place  of  the  Jews,  by  the  Haram  wall,  not  far  from 
the  Temple  site.  We  found  our  way  there  from  David 
Street  along  a  narrow,  winding,  filthy  lane  which 
was  filled  with  beggars  at  every  turn.  We  were 
received  very  kindly,  special  seats  being  arranged 
for  us.  Al)()ut  150  Jews  of  both  sexes  were  congre- 
gated before  this  wall,  6G  feet  high,  some  reading 
their  Hebrew  Bibles  and  prayer  books,  while  others 
were  kissing  the  immense  stones  of  the  wall  and 
wailing,  the  tears  rolling  down  their  cheeks.  It  was 
a  sad  sight.  There  were  present  a  couple  of  two- 
legged  donkeys,  making  light  of  the  wailers.  At 
home,  they  were  probably  known  as  French  gentle- 
men. We  also  saw  here  one  thing  that  did  present 
a  comical  side,  to  which  the  Jews,  however,  paid  no 
more  attention  than  if  it  had  been  a  necessary  part 
of  the  programme.  It  was  a  case  of  brawling.  An 
Arab  and  his  wife  had  a  difference,  and  they  settled 
it  in  the  wailing  place.  The  woman  talked  with  her 
hetfd,  arms,  feet  and  })ody,  and  slie  seemed  to  have 
a  dozen  tongues,  eacii  one  on  a  pivot  and  loose  at 
both  ends.  The  man  was  no  better.  lean  now  un- 
derstand what  Solomon  meant  when  he  said:  "It 
is  better  to  dwell  in  the  corner  oC  the  house  to]), 
than  with  a  brawling  woman  and  in  a  wide  hous<'. " 
And  Solomon  might  have  added  that  *'it  is   better 


4^ 


WALKS  ABOUT  JERUSALEM 


218 


to  dwell  in  the  cellar,    than  with  a  brawling  man 
in  a  wide  h<jiise. " 

On  Saturday  we  went  into  a  Jewish  Synagogue, 
in  which  there  was  a  crowd  of  men,  some  sitting  on 
benches,  some  standing,  some  reading  aloud  and 
others  engaged  in  conversation.  All  had  their  heads 
covered.  We  saw  at  the  back  of  the  building  the 
woman's  gallery;  but  the  women  were  not  there. 

We  visited  David's  Tomb,  a  sliort  distance  outside 
the  Zion  Gate.  Adjoining  it,  on  a  second  Hoor,  is 
pointed  out  the  traditional  Upper  Room  in  which 
the  Lord's  Su])per  was  instituted,  and  in  which  the 
disciples  were  assembled  on  the  Day  of  Pentecost, 
when  the  Holy  Spirit  descended  on  them.  The 
native  women  are  required  to  approach  the  tomb  by 
a  special  way,  and  to  pass  through  a  doorway  across 
which  a  chain  is  stretched  about  two  feet  from  the 
ground.  Under  this  chain  the  women  must  stoop  to 
keep  them  humble.  When  the  "new  woman" 
reaches  Jerusalem  this  chain  will  come  down.  As 
further  evidence  that  she  has  not  yet  arrived  there, 
I  saw  a  man  on  David  Street  violently  push  down  a 
woman,  presumably  his  wife,  and  no  one  in  the 
crowd  took  as  much  notice  of  it  as  if  he  had  kicked 
his  dog.  Keturning  from  the  "upper  room"  we 
passed  the  Turkish  barracks  and  heard  the  band  play- 
ing. It  seemed  that  the  whole  tune  was  composed 
of  discords  It  was  a  mixture  of  screeching,  creak- 
ing, rattling  sounds  such  as  we  had  never  heard  be- 
fore. The  Turk  must  have  a  strangely  constructed 
ear  for  music. 


;> 


214  OUR   TOUR   AROUND   THE  WORLD 

On  our  first  Sunday  in  the  city  we  attended  the 
Episcopal  Church,  at  10  a  m.  The  service  was  con- 
ducted in  English,  and  the  sermon  was  poor.  About 
(50  people  were  present, mostly  English  residents.  In 
theory  there  are  what  we  may  call  three  Sundays  in 
Jerusalem.  The  Mohammedans  observe  Friday,  the 
Jews  Saturday,  and  the  Christians  Sunday.  But 
practically  all  days  are  much  alike,  except  the  Jew- 
ish Sabbath,  which  is  most  strictly  observed  of  all 
other  days  In  the  Jewish  quarter  all  the  shops  are 
closed  on  the  Sabbath,  and  in  other  quarters  the  Jew 
does  not  hesitate  to  close  his  shop,  though  his  Chris- 
tian neighbors  on  both  sides  of  him  are  open.  Evi- 
dently the  Christianity  in  Jerusalem  is  not  the  type 
to  convert  the  Jews  very  soon. 

We  visited  and  carefully  examined  the  principal 
pools  in  and  about  the  city,  including  the  Upper  and 
Lower  Pools  of  Gihon,  the  Pool  of  Hezekiah,  the 
Pool  of  Siloam,  the  Virgin's  Pool  and  the  Pool  of 
Bethesda.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  Via  Dolorosa 
from  the  last  named  pool,  and  at  the  northwestern 
corner  of  the  Church  of  St.  Anna,  has  been  recently  .| 

discovered  what  is  considered  by  many  to  be  the  true 
Bethesda  of  the  New  Testament.  It  is  much  smaller 
than  the  traditional  Bethesda,  is  reached  by  a  flight 
of  steps,  is  surrounded  by  old  porches,  and  the  water  ^ 

which  constantly  stands  in  it  is  thought  to  contain 
sanitary  properties.  We  were  also  kindly  shown 
through  the  excavations  which  Dr.  Bliss  was  mak- 
ing on  Mt.  Zion,  a  short  distance  outside  the  present 
wall.  Dr.  Bliss  has  made  here  some  valuable  dis- 
coveries, the  principal  one  of  which  he  believes  to  be  ^ 


r 


WALKS    ABOUT  .lERtTSALEM  215 

part  of  the  wall  of  the  ancient  city.  On  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  Valley  of  Hinnoni  we  examined  the 
Field  of  Blood,  and  explored  the  newly  discovered 
tombs,  which  were  partly  filled  with  grinning  human 
skeletons.  The  tombs  are  enclosed  with  a  stone  wall 
and  kept  by  a  Greek  priest  The  priest  gave  me  a 
descri|)tion  of  the  discovery,  etc.,  printed  in  Greek. 
Near  this  spot  we  saw  u  strong  limb  of  an  olive  tree 
projecting  over  the  clilV,  on  which  any  modern  Judas 
might  easily  hang  himself,  and  in  case  the  rope 
should  break, giving  him  a  clear  fall  of  thirty  feet  on 
to  the  sharp  rocks,  proljably  "bursting  him  asunder 
in  the  midst."  The  Valley  of  Hinnom  was  the  hot- 
test place  through  which  we  passed  in  all  of  our  trav- 
els, and  it  was  a  fit  reminder  of  the  Jiible  hell  with 
which  it  has  been  long  associated. 

On  Wednesday,  July  11,  by  special  invitation,  we 
took  tea  with  the  American  Consul,  Rev.  K.  S.  Wal- 
lace, and  wife.  Here  we  met  the  wife  of  the  English 
Consul  and  other  prominent  ladies.  On  the  follow* 
ing  Sunday  afternoon  the  Consul  arranged  to  have 
my  Presbyterian  friend  and  myself  conduct  service 
in  the  large  olhce  of  the  consulate,  the  first  of  the 
kind  that  had  been  attempt(Ml.  Encouraged  by  the 
large  attendance  of  Euro])eans,  the  Consul  announced 
his  purpt)S(   '()  continue  the  meetings. 

Our  walks  about  Jerusalem  i)roved  exceedingly  in- 
teresting,and  were  far  too  numerous  to  admit  of  even 
a  brief  description  of  all  of  them  here.  They  will 
always  remain  fresh  in  our  memories,  and  contin- 
ually furnish  incentives  to  Bible  study  and  the  proc- 
lamation of  the  Gospel  of  Christ. 


LETTER  XXXVI. 


FROM  JERUSALEM  TO  NAPLES. 


On  Monday  morning,  July  10,  we  took  our  final 
departure  from  Jerusalem.  The  agent  of  Thomas 
Cook  &  Son  drove  us  to  the  railway  station  and  se- 
cured for  us  the  exclusive  useof  a  first-class  compart- 
ment. At  7:45  our  train  left  for  Joppa,  and  as  we 
moved  away  through  the  Plain  of  Rephaim,the  Tower 
of  David, the  Mount  of  Olives  and  the  Russian  Tower, 
on  the  summit  of  Olivet,  were  the  last  objects 
about  the  city  to  be  seen.  Our  train  gradually  de- 
scended the  wadies  which  wind  about,  serpentine 
fashion,  passing  beautiful  vegetable  gardens,  olive 
groves,  terraced  hills  and  rugged  mountains  till  we 
reached  the  Plain  of  Sharon.  We  also  passed  in  the 
Valley  of  Roses,  about  five  miles  from  Jerusalem, 
Philip's  Fountain,  where  the  Latins  claim  the  eunuch 
was  baptized.  There  is  a  beautiful  pool  of  water  a 
short  distance  below  the  spring,  with  steps  leading 
down  into  it,  which  would  certainly  prove  an  ad- 
mirable place  for  baptizing.  We  saw  other  places 
along  the  wadies  which,  during  the  greater  part  of 
the  year,  would  serve  the  same  purpose.  It  will  not 
be  according  to  fact  to  contend  that  there  was  not 
plenty  of  water  in   the  country  through  which   the 

216 


y 


FROM    JERUSALEM   TO  NAPLES  -17 

eunuch  pasBed  in  which  he  could  l)ave  })een  imnicrse<l. 
In  the  Plain  of  Sharon  we  saw  what  a])peared  to 
be  8tra\v-stack8  moving  t(jwards  thethivshing-llijorH. 
But  they  were  simply  eainelH  with  immense  loads  ot' 
unthreshed  wheat  on  their  iiacka,  their  legs  only  be- 
ing visible.  It  is  said  that  a  Full-sized  oamel  can  (^arry 
more  than  800  pounds.  I  am  sure  that  these  were 
carrying  next  to  the  last  straw  tliat  broke  tlie  camel's 
back.  We  saw  at  one  large  threshing-tloor,  near 
Jaffa,  a  donkey  and  an  ox  yoked  tou,ot]ier,  treadiui; 
out  the  wheat.  Xear  by  we  saw  a  large  cunel  and 
a  small  donkey  tied  together,  making  their  rounds. 
the  back  of  the  donkny  reacliing  only  to  the  knees  «>f 
the  camel.  All  the  animals  were  unnnjzzled.  We 
thought  of  the  passages  of  Scripture  which  say: 
''Thou  shalt  not  muzzle  the  ox  thattreadeth  out  the 
corn;"  "Be  ye  not  unequally  yoked  together  with  un- 
believers." 

From  the  Jaffa  station  we  were  driven  to  the  Jeru- 
salem Hotel,  which  we  made  our  headquarters    lor 
1  nearly  four  days.   Here  we  had  the  pleasure  of  meet- 

)  ing  Dr.  Bliss,  President  of  the  Presbyterian  College 

at  Beyrout.  He  was  accompanied  by  his  wife  and 
daughter,  and  also  met  here  by  his  son  from  Jerusa- 
lem.    They  were  taking  a  holiday  trip. 

On  Thursday,  July  19,  we  sailed  from  Jaffa  on  the 
Egyptian  .S'.  S.  Khc<1  trial.  Cook's  boatmen  rowed 
us  out  to  our  ship  in  their  splendid  "No.  1"  I'oat. 
The  hills  and  shores  of  Palestine  soon  disai)peared 
from  view.  At  sunset  the  Mohammedan  passen- 
gers did  not  hesitate  to  say  their  prayers  on  deck. 


2\S 


OUlt   TOVH   AROUND   THE    WORLD 


() 


N(!xt  morning  at  7  o'clock  we  anchored   in  the  har- 
bor at  Port  Said.     We  had  to  wait  here   four  days 
lor  our  boat,  the  AnMral,  from  Australia,  to  take  us 
on  to  Naples.     We   stopped  during  this  time  at  the 
CJrand  Continental   Hotel,   close  to  the  water   and 
commanding  a   tine  view  of  the  harbor   and  canal. 
As  we  sat  for  hours  after  dark  on  the  balcony  of  our 
hotel,  it  was   an  interesting  and   beautiful   night  t 
wtilch  the  great   ships,  with  their  powerful  search- 
lights, slowly  working  their  way  into  and  out  of  this 
wonderful    canal.     At    first    those  approaching  us 
looked  like  lantern  lights  moving  on  the  desert;  but 
after  a  few  hours  the  whole  city  was  illuminated  by 
their  head-lights.     If  all  the   old  Pharaohs  in  the 
museums  and  tombs  were  to  suddenly  rise  up  out  of 
their  coffins  and   behold  these   modern   wonders   ni 
their  land, they  would  be  as  much  struck  by  them  as 
we  are  at  the  pyramids   which  some  of  them   have 
built.  Another  thing  we  noted  here  was  the  fact  that 
not  a  single    American  flag  did  we  see  floating  over 
any  of  the  many  ships  passing  through  this  canal. 
Even  the  man   acting  as  American  Consul  in    Port 
Said  is  an  Englishman.    It  is  a  burning  shame  that 
our  partisan   politicians  can  not  cease  fighting  one 
another  long  enough  to  give  our  country  a  little  more 
honor  and    influence  abroad.     One  day  we  went  out 
on  a  beautiful  beach  to  have  a  bath  in  the  Mediter- 
ranean Sea.     A   Mohammedan,  having   finished  his 
bath,  spread  down    his  mat,  turned   his  face  toward 
Mecca  and    laboriously  went  through  with  his  long 
prayer,  while  we  looked  on  and  took  notes. 


FROM    .lERlTWALEM    TO   NAPLES  210 

We  were  four  days  sailing  over  the  Mediterraneftii 
Sea.     We  did  not  see  Jonah's  whale.     But  tlu^re  an^ 
whales  of  the  largest  kinds  found  in  thiw  sea.     Tiio 
Greek  word  in  the  New  Testament  translated  whale, 
as  every  scholar  knows,  is  not  limited  to  the  \vhal(% 
but  means  any  great  fish  or  sea-monster;  and  it  is  a 
well  known   fact  that  there  is  a  species  ofsliark  in- 
habiting   the  Mediterranean   Sea  quite  capable  of 
swallowing  any  ordinary  man,    ignorant   intidel    as- 
sertions to  the  contrary,    notwithstanding.      I   saw 
sharks  caught  in   Australia  more  than   thirty  Uh^ 
long, which  could  swallow  a  man  with  the  greatest  of 
ease.     Hence,    I  believe  that  a  great  fish   swallowed 
Jonah.  I  believe  it  mainly  because  Jesus  has  said  so, 
and  I  must  leave  the  "critics"  to  dispute   with  the 
Lord.  The  "critics"  have  no  right,  howev(3r,  to  make 
a  whale  out  of  Jonah  and  a  minnow  of  the  fish.   It  is 
just  as  easy  to  suppose  that  Jonah  was  a  pygmy  an<i 
that  the  sea-monster  was  large  enougii  to  swallow 
a  whole  family  of   Jonahs  at  a  single  gulp.     What 
the  "critics"  need  is  what  Jonah  got— a  hi<i  vhaVnuj. 
While  we  saw  no  whales,  we  did  see  porpoises  sport- 
ing themselves,  and  many  beautiful  jelly-fish  in  the 

blue  sea. 

We  sailed  close  by  the  island  of  Crete,  now  called 
Candia,  with  its  bold  headlands  covered  with  tufts 
of  native  grass,  with  a  small  tree  here  and  there. 
Here  our  ship  experienced  a  strong  head-wind,  and 
we  thought  of  the  ship  on  which  Paul  was  being 
taken  to  Rome  contending  with  the  wind  along  these 
coasts.     It  was  on  this  island  the  apostle  left  Titus 


220 


OUR  TOUR  AROUND   THE   WORLD 


to  set  in  order  the  tilings  that  were  wanting  and  or- 
dain elders  in  everv  city.  As  the  i»lnnd  is  now  gov- 
erned by  the  Turks,  I  an.  afraid  \\v.x\  Titus  would 
have  adiHicult  task  tuset   in   order  ail   the    things 

that  are  wanting  . 

Atdavlight  on   July  27   we   passed   through    the 
Strait  of   Messina,  which   divides    Italy  and  Sicily, 
luul  we  saw  on  our  right  Keggio,  the  Bible  Rhegium, 
at  which  Paul's  boat  touched;  and  on  our  left,  a  lit- 
tle farther  on,  was  the  town  of  Messina,    beginning 
at  the  water's  edge  and  extending  far  up  the  Sicily 
hills.   We  also  had  a  fine  view  of  the  celebrated  Scy  11a 
(rock)  and  Charybdis  (whirlpool).     We  were  disap- 
pointed, however,  in  not  seeing  snow-crowned  Mount 
Etna,  on  the  Sicily  side,  having  passed  the  point  of 
observation  for  it  before  daylight.     A  lighthouse  on 
the  Sicily  side  marked  our  exit  from  the  strait  into 
the  sea  again.     One  hour's  run  brought  us  to  the 
gmall  cone-shaped   island  of  Stromboli,   rising  ab- 
ruptly  out  of  the  sea  to  a  considerable  height.     Its 
top  is  an   active  volcano,  which    every  few   minutes 
sent  out  a  cloud  of  smoke  in  shape  something  like  a 
large  tree  with  its  spreading  branches.  A  small  town 
of  white  houses  nestles  at  its  base,  and  the  slopes 
half-way  up  the  mountain  are  covered  with  green 
grass,  striped  with  deep,  dark  furrows  running  fron) 
the  crater   to  the  base  of  the  mountain.     We  wero 
quite  close  to  it;  audit  presented  a  pretty   picture 
with  the  rays  of  the  rising  sun  falling  on  it,   and 
some  clouds  hanging  about  its  summit.  A  few  weeks 
after  this,   Stromboli  was  in  eruption,   destroying 


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flfering 
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FROM  JERUSALEM  TO  NAPLES         221 

much  property  on  the  iHlaiul  and  causing  suftering 
among  the  people  which  had  to  be  alleviated  by  do- 
nations from  the  principal  Italian  cities. 

At  4  P.  M.  on  Friday  we  steamed  into  the  famous 
Bay  of  Naples,  with  its  vine-clad  hills  on  our  right, 
the  city  before  us  and  grand  Mount  Ve8uvius,a  little 
to  the  right,  in  the  background.  We  were  all  dis- 
appointed with  the  bay,  and  agreed  that  its  beauty 
has  been  much  exaggerated.  It  lacks  diversity,  am 
is  so  shallow  near  the  landing  that  our  ship  couhl 
not  approach  the  little  pier.  It  is  simply  a  big  sheet 
of  water  with  the  sea  rolling  right  into  it.  Its  beauty 
will  not  compare  favorably  with  the  Sydney  Harbor, 
Australia.     Let  us  now  ''see  Naples,  and  die." 


LETTER   XXXVII. 

SEEING   NAPLES. 


I 


Well,  we  have  seen  Naples  and  we  did  not  die. 
Perhaps  the  reason  was  our  stay  there  was  short. 
We  are  thankful  we  lived  long  enough  to  get  away 
from  there.  Still,  we  have  seen  worse  places;  in 
fact,  on  the  whole,  we  were  rather  pleased  with  Na- 
p](is.  Beginning  with  the  business  part  and  the  prin- 
cipal streets  on  the  level  at  the  head  of  the  bay,  the 
city  is  built  high  up  on  the  hills,  and  crowned  by 
the  castle  of  St.  Elmo.  Its  tall  buildings  are  massed 
together,  making  the  streets  narrow  and  winding.  It 
possesses  some  fine  public  buildings  and  beautiful 
parks  and  gardens.  Like  the  Egyptians,  the  people 
seem  to  live  outdoors;  especially  of   evenings,  when  J 

the  streets  literally  swarm  with  them.    The  few  who  .; 

are  not  then  on  the  streets  are  sitting  at  the  windows  > 

and  on  the  small  balconies,  from  three  to  eight  stories  ) 

high,  looking  down  on  the  swaying  mass  of  human-  ^ 

ity.     But  more  orderly  crowds  we  have  never  seen.  | 

Nearly  all  the  men  and  boys  wore   white  straw   hats  | 

of  the  same  pattern,  and   most  of  the  women  went  | 

with  their   heads   uncovered.     The   bevies    of  dark-  | 

.'ved,  bar.'-lieaded  maidens  on   the  streets   were  very  > 

pretty.     (I  did  not  say  this  to  Mrs.  Trotter.)    I  laid 

2-^2 


SEEING   NAPLES  '2'2\l 

off  my  pith  helmet,  put  oii  a  straw  hat  and  mingled 
with  the  crowds.  Naples  is  a  great  city,  having  a 
population  of  about  600,000. 

We  came  ashore  in  a  small  steamer;  and  we  were 
warned  to  put  away  all  the  tobacco  we  had  about  us, 
for  the  Italian  Customs  officials  could  smell  a  pinch 
of  snuff  half  a  mile  away.      If  the  stump  of  an  old 
cigar  had  been  found  in  our  possession  it  would  have 
become  at   once  a  smoking  Vesuvius  and   caused  us 
trouble.     But  as  I  do  not  use   the  weed  at  all    we 
were  soon  passed  through   the  Custom  House,   and 
driven  to  the  Hotel  de  Russie.   The  tall,  slick-tongued 
thief  who  accompanied  the   carriage   driver  charged 
us   eight  shillings  for  the  short  ride.     I   declined 
to  pay  it.     He  became  angry,  and  I  stood  on  the  lu)- 
tel  steps  and  smiled  while  he  beat  the  wall  with    his 
fist,  danced  a  jig  and  swore  in  Italian.     At  the  close 
of  the  performance  I  said:     •'!  will   give    y«»u   four 
shillings;  take  that,  or  I  will   call  the  police."  He 
took  the  money  and  disappeared  around  the  corner. 
Our  room  was  at  the  top  of  four  long  flights  of  steps, 
and  opened   out  on  to  a  balcony  with  the  bay  and 
•'  Mount  Vesuvius  in  plain  view.   We  were  well  pleased 

I  with  the  accommodation.     We   had    no  reason    to 

'i  complain  of  the  inadequacy  of  the  food.     It  is  true 

^  the  breakfast  in  the  European    hotel,  is  not  so  elab- 

orate as  the  American  hotels  usually  supply.  Hut 
there  is  alwavs  plenty  of  bread,  butter  and  cotlee, 
a.ul  sometimes  eggs  and  jam;  and  what  is  lacking 
at  bnnikfast  is  made  up  at  the  oth.r  meaN.  01  courso 
if  one   is   thinking   moiv  about   eating   than    about 


'k 


# 


:]-2\:  '.n'ii  joint  auou.nd  the  world 


nigh  1 -seeing,  lie  may  not  be  satisfied  with  such  a 
breakfast  A  Continental  tour  with  some  Anieri- 
oans  is  (\sHentinlly  an  eating  tour.     The  pleasure  of  11 

the  journey  is  measured  by  the  amount  of  food  they  j| 

can  manage  to  envelop;  and  the  fuss  they  continually  f| 

make  about    it  and  the  way  they  go  al)out   eating  j 

j^ive  the  impression  abroad  that  the  American  people  ' 

are  more  interested  in  the  development  of  stomachical 
capacity  than  they  are  in  brain  culture.  The  climate  || 

was  perfection.   Wo  experienced  no  shivering  between  'I 

cold  hotel  walls;  the  sky  was  clear  and  the  air  balmy.  ^^ 

Early  next  mo^'ning  we  took  a   walk   through   the  4 

city  before  the   ]     'pie  were  fairly  astir.     We  noted  i| 

some  strange  sights.  The  milk  wagons  were  not 
rattling  through  the  streets  delivering  watered  milk,  ♦  c 

coming  from  all    sorts  of  questionable  places.     But  j 

before  one  door  in  the  street  stood  two  or  three  cows; 
a  man  was  milking  the  maid's  quart-cup  full  while 
the  maid  stood  on  the  steps  watching  the  process. 
Only  one  thing  could  ])revent  this   milk  from    being  ' 

]nire,  and  that  would  bean  impure  cow.     JU^forean-  | 

other  door  stood    a   herd   of  goats;  the  herder   was  ^ 

milking  one,  while  two  others  had  retired  to  the  mid-  || 

die  of  the  street  to  apparently  settle  a  di (Terence  by 
cracking  their  heads  together.  But  we  have  seen  so 
many  strange  things  that  we  are  sometimes  almost 
afraid  to  judge  things  according  to  the  appearance. 
It  may  be  that  these  two  goats  resorted  to  this 
method  of  churning  the  milk  before  delivering  it. 
At  any  rate,  the  Ix'rder  was  df'livering  to  the  house- 
hold pure  goat  milk,  mostly   made   from  the   brown 


SBKTNG  NAPLEB 


005 


Si 


paper  the  goats  hiid  pickod  up  from  tlje  streets.  And 
so  the  cows  and  goats  went  thu  round  from  house 
to  house  till  the  supply  of  milk  was  exhausted. 

Amidst   all   the  sph-ndor   in   NapU^s   we   saw   evi- 
dences that  many  of  its  people  are  very  poor.   There 
goes  a  rickety  old  fruit-cart   drawn    l>y  an  ux   and  a 
lean  horse,  side  liy  side.     Yonder   is  another  similar 
cart  drawn  by  a  poorly  clad  man  Wntween  the  shafts 
and  a  sad  looking  don"key  pulling  in  iiarness   before 
him.     Here,  in  the  centre  of  a   principal   thorough- 
fare, is  a  thin,    weak   horse   that   has  broken    down 
under  the  great  load   placed  on  it,   and  some  peoi)le 
are  gathering  about    it  to  enjoy  the  tun.      Out  thern 
in  that  back-yard  playing  are  a  couple  of  boys  thir- 
teen years  old  stark  naked.   The  rich  ride  by  m  their 
carriages,  the  fountains  play,  the  sweet  music  (loats 
on  theair  and  the  city  has  put  on  her  holiday  dress. 
Strange  mixture! 

The  most  enjoyable  and   instructive  place   we  vis- 
ited in  the  citv  was  the  Naples   Museum,  which   is  a 
national  institution.     The  building  is  an   attractive 
and    substantial   one,   and    it   contains    more   than 
120,000  specimens      We   walked  through    forests  ot 
tine  statuary.   We  saw  walls  covered  with  paintings, 
induding  many  masterpieces.     We  examined  a  col- 
lection of  nearlv  two  thousand  beautiful  fresco  paint- 
ings, taken  chietly  from  the   walls   of   Pompeii   and 
Herculaneum.     We  admired  the  numerous   magmti- 
cent  mosaics  from   thc>  same  source      Of  course  we 
were  most  interested  in   the  things    taken  Irom   the 
partially  recovered    cities  of  Pompeu  and  Hercu- 


220  OUK   TOUR   ABOUND   THE    WOULD 


I 


iHiunim.     In  addition  to   those  nlroudy   named,    we 
extiniined  the    following:     Various  articles  of  food,  ' 

Buch  as  bread,  cake,   meat,  fruits  and   nuts.     There  - 

were  fifteen  loaves  of  bread  found  in  a  bake-oven  at 
Pompeii.     A  loaf  and  a  half  were  found  on  the  coun- 
ter, one  loaf  evidently  having  been   cut  to  make  up  } 
the  proper  weight.     There  were  walnuts,  tigs,  pears, 
chestnuts,  dates,  raisins,  almonds,  carob  bean-pods, 
onions,  eggs,  wax,  honey  in  the  comb,   and  bones  of  I 
fish  and  fowl.     One  case   contained  wheat,    barley, 
millet,  beans,  lentils  and  pepper.     There  was   meat  | 
in  a  double  saucepan,  just  as  it   had   been  put  in  to  ^ 
cook,  and  there  was  some  flour  in  a  jar.  Eight  glass  4 
tubes  hermetically  sealed  contained  olives  preserved  \ 
in  oil.     But   the  most  remarkable  thing  was  a  glass  j 
jar  containing  petrified  wine.     Linen  was  found  in                       f 
a  wash-tu!),silk  wound  in  balls,  nets  for  ladies'  hair, 
soles  of  sandals,  and  purses  containing  money.  One 
of  these  purses  was  found  with    one  of  the  skeletons 
taken  from  the  house  of  Diomede.     There  were  also 
toys  for  tiie  nurseries,  scent  bottles,  plates,  tumblers, 
cups,  bowls,  vaces,  milk  jugs,    tear   Ixittles,    tables, 
some  of  which  are  marble  folding  tables,  bedsteads, 
iron  safes,  locks,    keys,  hinges   from   doors,    folding                       j 
chairs,  fountain  jets  and  sjmiys,  doorknockers,  bath  I 
tubs  and  ointuxMit  pots;  iron  tools,  such  as  scythes, 
sickles,    bill-hooks,   knives,    rakes,     forks,    spades,  J 
trowels,  ploughshares,    saws,    hammers,   ])lane8,   an-  •• 
vils  and  whetstones;  lamps  and  lanterns,  weights  and 
nieasures, mathematical  instruments,  surgical  instru- 
ments, kitchen  utensils, etc., etc.   Many  of  these  things 


SEEING    NAPLKB 


227 


I  hav«  pnuniHratod  were  uh  ixM'tfct  in  thoir  conHtnu!- 
tion  us  oiiii  l)o  producod  jit  tlu*  pn'Hciil  tiii)«»  l\v  tli« 
most  advaiicnd  civilized  nations  I  wisli  to  spnoialiy 
mention  tin*  stoci^s  that  were  found  in  lii<i  burrajits 
at  l*oni|)<'ii.  'Piiey  were  ho  conHtructf*!  as  to  l)e  fas- 
tened lo  the  door  of  tlit>  prison  Ka(di  partition 
(•onfinHd  the  anicle  of  a  prisoner,  who  was  thus  (5om- 
pi'lled  to  sit  or  lif>  on  thotloor.  They  were  c.apaldH  of 
securing  twenty  prisoners,  and  four  skeletons  were 
found  in  tiiem,  the  sudden  (H)verinK  up  «d"  tlie  city 
not  p^rmittin^  of  the  release  of  the  jjrisoners.  It 
was  doubtless  this  sort  of  an  instrument  in  which 
Paul  and  Silas  were  confined  at  Philippi. 

We  were  much  interested  in   the  gold   ornaments, 
in  great  variety  and  excpiisite  designs,   consisting  of 
earrings,  tingtu'-rings,  necklaces,  bracelets,  etc      We 
have  never  seen  more  perfect  and  beautiful  jewelry. 
We  examined  a  ^'remarkable  gold  neckla(;e  of  ribbon 
wire  set  with  eight  large  pearls  and   nine    emeralds. 
At  one  end  of  it  is  a  gold  disc  with  an  emerald,  and 
at  the  other  end  is  a  hook.   This  is  one  of  the  richest 
necklaces  of  anticpiity."     On  a  skeleton  in   a   house 
in   Pompeii    were    found  two  solid    g(dd    bra(;elet8 
weighing  two  p«mnds.   On  the  finger  of  the  same  skel- 
eton was  a  garnet  ring  with  a  small   figure,  and   the 
inscription.  "Crj.s.sm."  We  were  shown  a  solid    gold 
lamp   from    Pompeii    weigiiing  three   pounds.      But 
space  forbids  further   nieiiiion   (d'   these   interesting 

objects. 

We  left  the  museum  tirr-d,  but  well  repaid  for  our 

labor. 


LETTER   XXXVIII 

A  WALK    THROUGH  POMPEII. 

On  Saturday  morning  we  had  a  delightful  walk 
through  Pompeii,  which  to  me,  in  some  respects,  is 
the  most  interesting  place  in  the  world.  We  took 
the  train  at  Naples  at  half-past  ten  and  were  soon  at 
the  Pompeii  Hotel,  before  the  entrance  gate. 

Pompeii  was  a  seaport  town  situated  at  the  base 
of  Mount  Vesuvius,  about  seventeen  miles  in  a  south- 
eastern direction  from  Naples.  It  was  mostly  sur-  .j 
rounded  l)V  a  strong  wall  which  was  nearly  two  miles 
in  circumference,  and  it  had  eight  gates.  Its  streets  i 
were  well  made,  with  raised  sidewalks,  and  supplied  i 
with  drinking  fountains,  the  water  being  brought 
into  the  city  in  pii>es  of  lend.  It  was  evidently  a  city  ' 
of  considerable  wealth  and  influence.  But  it  was  '>^ 
overtaken  by  a  sudden  calamity.  i 

At  about  one  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  of  August  | 

24,  1\)  A.  D.,  an  immense  cloud   of  smoke   was  seen  j 

to  issue  from  Mount  Vesuvius,  resembling  in  shape  * 

a  huge  pine  tree.   Soon  the  surrounding  country  was  ! 

shrouded    in    midnight    darkness,  which    lasted   for  ^ 

three  days,  the  earth  shook,  forked  lightning  played  I 

about  the  summit  of  the  mountain,  the  flames  burst  j 

forth  accompanied  by  terrific  thunder.  Ashes,  scoria  ! 

228  ' 


f  A    WALK  THRorOH  POMPEIT  229 

ami  M!iiall  ^tniHH  poured  ilowii  (»n  Pompeii,  while  the 
tt!ri'(>r--lii<:lit)ii  iiilMiliitaiiis  were  lUMMiig  for  their 
livns.  Til"  sc.'iM'  was  awliil,  Tiie  city  was  buried 
Innn  Iw-iiiy  to  thirty  ffft  deep,  uiid  it  is  thought 
that  soiu  '  t  Ao  thousand  people  perished.  Some  of 
■  the  ttsh-H  M  '^111  to  lijivf  hetMi  mixed  with  water,  form- 

ing a  pisi'-liki)  sul)staiK5t'  in  svliieh  tiieljodies  of  the 
uiitortuiirito  p'  )\i\>'  \v«?r»'  t'iu!:iHed,  preserving  the  im- 
pressioiH  of  til 'ir  liolies    with   ^reat  aocjuracy.     No 
lava  rail  down  on  Hhj  city,  as  supposed  by  some,  for 
this  would  iiUN'M  consumed  every  combustible  thing. 
But  the  city  was  s  >  compli'tely  covered   that  tinally 
its   verv  site   w;n    lost    lor  centuries,  and   the  rich 
^(round  which  had  Conned  al)ove  it  was  cultivated  in 
(!orn,  vines  and  fruit  trees    The  younger  Pliny,  who 
witnessed  it    at  a  disMnce  of   twenty  miles,  has   left 
on  record  a  vivid  description  of   this  awful  catastro- 
phe.    The  neii^hl>orinti  city  of  Herculaneum  was  also 
buried  at  the  same   time  with    fine  ash   mixed   with 
water  or  a  stmain  of    mud   rolling  down   from  the 
mountain    top       In    174H  somt;    i^'asants,    by  mere 
chance,  discovered  specimens  which  served  to  locate 
the  buried  city,  and  from  that   time   to  the  present 
excavations  have  been  irregularly  carried  on.   At  the 
time  of  our  visit  only  about  forty  acres  had  been  ex- 
cavated, leaving  about  ninety  acres  yet  to  be  uncov- 
ered.    I  was  told  that,  owing  to  lack  of   funds,  the 
Italian  government  is  not  able  to  push  the  work  rap- 
id 1  v. 

Our  entrance  to  this  curious  city  was  through  the 
gate  facing  the  sea,  for  which  privilege  we  paid  two 


,1 


2«() 


OVH    TOIIH    ARonxO   THK  WORLD 


francs  oacli,  which  included  the  «('rvi<'os  of  ti  guide. 
Immediately  after  passing  through  the  gate  we  turned 
t(.  the  right  and  entered  the  Pompeian    Museum,  in 
which  is  collected  a  large  numher  of  the  relics  re- 
covered from   tlie  buried  city.     Most  of  these  are 
similar  to  those  I  have  described  In  the  Naples  Mu- 
seum.    But  in  addition  to  these,  we   saw   here  the 
recovered  skeletons  of  horses,   dogs,   cats  and   rats. 
And  then  through   the  middle  of  the  first  room  was 
a  row  of  nine  skeletons  of   men   and   women   whose 
lleshly  forms  have  been  very   accurately   reproduced 
in  casts  taken  from  the  hollow  moulds  of  the  bodies 
wiiere  they   were  discovered.      One  of  these  was  a 
faithful  sentinel  whose  remains  were  found  standing 
erect,  with  lance  in  hand,  at  one  of  the  gates,  where 
he  was  on  guard.    A  woman  was  lying  with  her  face 
to  the  ground  and  her  hand  over  her  mouth,  probab- 
ly to  avoid  suffocation;  and  the  arrangement  of  her 
hair  and  the  folds  of  her  drapery  were  plainly  seen. 
Two  moni  women,  thought  to  be  mother  and  daugh- 
ter, had  perisJHHl  together.     It   may   be  well   to  re- 
member that  according  to  Josephus  it  was  in  Pompeii, 
on   this  drea<lful  day,  Felix  and    Drusilla,  who  neg- 
lected to  give  heed  to  Paul's  special      'mon  to  them, 
perished. 

Leaving  the  museum, we  walked  through  the  main 
streets  and  exjjlored  the  principal  buildings,  cover- 
ing many  acres  of  ground.  Here  were  paved  dreets 
with  raised  steppiiig-stones  for  crossings,  and  drink- 
ing fountains  standing  at  intervals,  as  they  were  on 
the  night  the  city   was  destroyed      In   some  places 


I 

I 


A  WALK    THROUGH  POMPfai 


L>;ii 


: 


rut.H  have  Mwmj    worn    in  th«»  stono-imvod   stre^^ts  l)y 
the  "huriot  wIiooIh.      Merc  are   IIm'  stiitely  walls  of 
toiii|)les,courts  and  otliHi- public  huildiiij^p,  -vitii  hoiiib 
nf  thoir  Imavit  iful  <'()lunuiH,  many  of  which  are  Ihited, 
standing  in  their  places,  while  others   liave  fallen  to 
the  ground.      Here  are  the  humble   dwellings  of  the 
poor  with  one  or  two  small  rooms;  the  mansions  of 
the  rich  with    their  recieptioil-rooms,    dining-rooms, 
bedrooms,  bathrooms,    open    (Courts,  flower  gardens 
and  playing  fountains;    and    the  sho|)s   with   their 
littings      On  the  walls  of  souie  of  the  dining-rooms 
were  painted  in  beautiful   colors  the  articles  of  food 
with  which  the    tallies  were   Hupi)lied.      There    were 
ti.(f  wine  shops   with  the   great   jars   still   in    their 
places.    We  examined  a  large   bakehouse  with  a  mill 
attached,  and  a  counter  on  which   the  bread  was  ex- 
posed for  sale       Loaves    were    found   in   the   ovens. 
Near  by  was  a  drug-store,  in  which  were   found  bot- 
tles of  pills  and   oilier   medicines,  and   surgical   in- 
struments.    The    public   baths  were  (>xtensive   and 
b 'lutiful,  a-j  I   \V'»n<  su|>plied   with     dressing-rooms, 
heating  apparatus,  etc.   The  IJasilica,  the  Civil  Forum 
and  the  theatres  u(M-e  great  buildings.    We  saw  some 
diverted  houses  of  shame,  and  paintings  on  the  walls 
depict ing    the  vices  of  the  people       We  saw   a  ])lace 
-•ailed  ^'Skeletons'  Lane,"  fr»mi  which  seven  skeletons 
had  b.'(>n  taken.     Inde.d,  we  saw  here  on  every  hand 
unmistakable    evidences  of   thestate  of   civilization 
and  the  customs  and  nmnners  of  a  Uoman  city  more 
than    eiglite.-n    hundred   years  ago      As   Sir  J.    \N . 
Dawson  savs:     ''The  l^ompeian    Museum  at  Naples, 


282 


OUR  TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD 


in  fact,  would  make  one  believe  that  three-fourths 
of  our  modern  artistic  decoration  had  come  from 
Pompeii,  or  from  the  same  sources  with  the  art  of 
that  fossil  city."    But  adieu  to  Pompeii. 


( 
/> 


1 


LETTER  XXXIX. 


j.^ 


CLIMBING  MOUNT  VESUVIUS. 

We  took  lunch  at  the  Pompeii  Hotel, procured  horses 
and  a  guide,  and  at  1  p.  m.  nhurp,  we  set  out  to  climb 
Mount  Vesuvius.     No  more  dcmkey  for   the  little 
trotter.     This  time  he  took  a  horse  like  the  rest  of 
us,  and  was  very  proud  when  he  tound  that  he  could 
actually  gallop  without  tumbling  ott.     Mrs.  Trotter 
discovered  that  her  horse  was  also  a  trotter,  and   a 
liard  one  too.     On  the  way  we  were  overtaken    l>y  a 
gentleman  and  his  guide.     He  was  a  shipnuite  trom 
Australia,    and  an  actor.     Farther  on  we  came  to  a 
Itoman  Catholic  Convent,  and  over  the  door  to  the 
main  entrance  was  written  in  large  letters,  ^'Purga- 
tory  ''     We  thought  the    name  approprnite.     I  am 
afraid,  however,  that  our  short  stop  at  ''Purgatory''^ 
did  not   perfectlv  purify  us;  lor   from   "purgatory 
we  straightwav  went  np  to   h.ll.     Our  actor  thought 
the  trip  was  a  pleasant  and  easy  one.   He  said  he  was 

used  to  the  road.  ,    .  ^i     i    u- 

At  a  considerable  elevation  we  arrived  at  the  ha  t- 
wav  house,  where  we  had  a  few  moments'  rest  and  a 
drink  of  water.  Then  we  rode   rapidly  on,  our  wind- 
*  ii,K  path  leading  us  through  great  fields  ot   lava,  till 
we  reached  the  highest  point  we  could  make  on  horse- 

233 


i 

1 1 


il 


'2l\{  OVH    TOVH  AK()['NI)  THK  WORLD 

Imcrk.  Here  we  «ii8nioui)t<Ml  for  the  purpose  of  muk- 
ii.j^  the  remainder  of  the  ascent  on  foot.  But  a  hall- 
dozen  ItalianH  had  come  down  the  mountain-side  to 
meet  us  liere.  Tliey  hooked  as  if  they  had  just  come 
from  the  internal  regions,  gaunt,  glare-eyed  and  cov- 
ered with  Rulpliur  and  dust.  They  had  come  to  take 
their  charge.  'No,  thank  you,"  we  all  said  in  a 
(^horus,  ''we  are  going  to  climb  this  mountain  single- 
handed."  The  actor  was  otV  like  a  roe.  He  was  ii^ 
his  element.  The  little  trotter  next  broke  away,  and 
seemed  to  make  fair  progress.  Mrs.  Trotter  next 
made  the  etVort.  She  took  one  step  up  and  slipped 
down  two.  She  had  stepped  into  ashes  and  cinders 
knee-deep.     That   settled  it.     But  the  Italians  were 

'  equal  to  the  emergency.     They   had   a   rudely  con-  \ 

structed  cliair,  with  two  poles  fastened  to  the  bottom 
of  it,  in  whi(rh  they  proposed  to  carry  her  to  the 
crater  and  back   to  our  horses   i'or  eighteen    francs. 

I  We  closed  the  contract.     It   was   thn  only  chance. 

The  would-be  ladv  climber  reluctantly  took  a  seat  in 
the  chair,  three  Italians  hoisted  her  on  their  shoul- 
ders while  a  fourth  one  went   behind   to  steady  the 

'  others;  and  they  went  scrambling  up  the  mountain. 

I  told  them  if  they  let  their  load  fall  that  nothing 
but  their  heads  would  pay  the  damage.  It  was  hard 
w(jrk.  The  m«*n  panted  loud  and  perspired  freely. 
()c(;a.sionally  they  would  deliberately  set  down  tlx'ir 
burden  and  take  a  rest.  A  fifth  man  proposed  to 
haul  me  uj)  by  a  rope.     At  first  [  declined,  but  after 

I  going  a  short  distance  1  changed   my  mind.     1   tied 

one  end  of  the  rope  around   the  middle  of  my  um- 


T 


CLIMBING  MOUNT    VESITVriTH 


'J85 


I 


brellft,  to  which  I  Ih'UI;  Ww  man  imt  tli«'  «tth«'r  •Mid 
of  tliH  rop«  ovtfr  liis  slioiildi^r,  and  thus  we  i»roc«eded. 
Thonifts  Cook  <Si  Son  hiivc  a  FunicMihir  Railway,  ox- 
tending  from  tlio  lower  station  at  the  endof  the  car- 
riag«»  drive  from  Naples,  to  within  iMK)  yards  of  the 
crater.  Hut  tlie  station  was  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  mountain  from  us,  which  wouUl  recpiire  a  hm^ 
ride  to  reach  it;  and  then,  as  it  made  few  trips  dur- 
ing the  summer  season,  we  w«?re  not  sure  the  opera- 
tor would  be  prepared  to  take  us  up  when  we  reached 
it.     Besides,  we  preferred  going  up  another  way. 

We  soon  passed   the  actor  and    Master   John   and 
reached  the  summit  a  quarter  to  five.     With  tlie  as- 
sistance of  the  rope  I  had  made  the  ascent  witii  little 
fatigue.    As  1  wished  to  get  the  worth  of  my  money, 
1  threw  my  whole  weight  on  to  the  rope  when  I  got 
the  hauler    into  a   particularly   diflicult    place.      He 
putfedlikea  steam-engine,  hut   stuck   nobly  to  his 
work.     Half-way  up   he   propo;^(Ml  to  add    the  sixth 
man  as  a  i>usher,  at  my  exi.ei>se.     Hut  his  proposi- 
tion did  not  meet   with   acceptance.     We   sat  down 
ontheedgeof  theold  crater,far  abovetiie  cloud  line, 
and  IjlKK)  feet  almve  the  level  <»f  the  sen,  and  vi«nved 
the  -'landscape  oW.''     It  was  an  extensiv.^  and  a 
lovely   view.      Not  a  cloud   obstructed    our  vision. 
L(»veiy  Naples  seemed  to  lie  at  our  feet,   and  over  it 
the  sun  was   hanging  low  in  the  west,  ready  to  drop 
into  the  sea  bevond.     The  great  bay  stretched   away 
for  miles  in  a   southwestern   direction,  tinally  mm- 
gling  its  waters  with  those  «.f  the  Mediterranean  Sea 
proper.     The  surrounding  valleys  w.jn^  .d<»thed  with 


28C 


OUR  TOtTR   AROUND  THE    WORLD 


vineyards,  orchards  and  corn-fields,  and  dotted  with 
towns  and  villages;  and  the  great  lava  streams, 
which  had  many  times  rolled  down  the  mountain 
lowards  the  sea  since  the  destruction  of  Pompeii, 
were  distinctly  traced.  It  was  a  picture  which  a 
master-painter  might  have  delighted  to  throw  on 
canvas;  but  as  we  had  in  our  party  neither  brush, 
canvas  nor  painter,  we  decided  not  to  copy  it.  The 
unearthly  noise  at  hand  reminded  us  at  this  moment 
tiiat  there  vv'as  something  still  more  interesting  to 
he  seen. 

The  summit  of  Vesuvius  may  be  compared,  in 
shape, to  a  huge  plate  with  the  raised  rim,  and  a  cone 
in  the  centre,  extending  a  little  above  the  outer  edge, 
leaving  a  low  circle  between  the  rim  and  the  central 
cone,  resembling  a  wide,  shallow  moat.  As  we 
walked  over  this  intervening  ground  we  found  it 
quite  hot  in  places,  and  here  and  there  were  openings 
through  which  steam  was  issuing,  in  which  you  could 
soon  cook  an  egg.  Crossing  this  depressed  crust, 
which  was  about  a  hundred  yards  wide,  we  stood  on 
the  very  edge  of  the  crater  and  looked  right  down 
into  the  awful  abyss.  The  crater  was  circular,  with 
vertical  sides,  remindi'.ig  one  of  a  great  bucket,  was 
probably  a  third  of  a  mile  in  circumference  and  hun- 
dreds of  feet  dee|).  Over  more  than  half  of  the  south 
side  tliere  was  a  crust,  in  places  red-hot,  serving  as 
a  tenii)orary  hottom;  but  the  remainder  of  the  crust 
was  broken  away,  leaving,  on  the  north  side,  the 
great  seathing,  hissing,  roaring  lake  of  molten  lava 
fully    exposed  to  view.     Every  few  moments  the 


ij 


OLIMBINO   MOUNT  VESUVIUS 


287 


mountain  would  give  a  McK  the  flames  would  shct 
UP  fifty  feet  l.iKh,  «nd  great  ^»M^  "»  '««»-'"'  l^^" 
were  tl.rown  fur  ..hove  our  heads,  falling  back  into 
the  crater  with  a  thud.  As  there  was  no  wmd,  the 
smoke  di.l  nat  interfere  with  ..ur  view,  and  the  sul- 
,,h„r  smell  gave  us  no  troul.le.  We  stood  for  on^ 
h.,„r  watching  this  angry  lake  of  Hre.  Mrs.  1  r,  tter 
couhl  not  find  words  to  express  her  wonder,  and  de- 
clared she  could  look  at  it  for  weeks  at  n  tune 

When  we  turned  to  make  the  descent  1  noticed  that 
U.e  shrewd  Italians  had  carried  the  f '"i^"''-  '""" 
dre<l  yar<ls  down  the  mountain  and  left  it.     W  lien 
.l.manded  what  they  meant  hy  such  condu..    they 
said  thev  lh.,ught  the  lady  would  like  to  walk  a  little 
av  d.,wn   the   mountain.     Well,    she  walked  w.tl 
,1,;.  rest  of  us,  ten  feet  at  a  stride.     It  was  not   a 
.,„„stion  of  going;  it  was  a  question  <'f;»"l'I';-S-     _ 
was  like  descending  a  pyramid  of  wheat.     W  e  only 
re,iuired    twenty  minutes  to  reach  our  horses.     The 
L-t  ,r  was  .lown"  first,  and  when  he  saw  the  four  men 
i,u..hing  through  the  ashes  with  the  dust-covered 
ll.v-elevtted  ahove  their  heads,  lie  saul     e  wouUl 
«ive  ten  dollars  for  her  photograph  taken  then.     He 
thouu'ht  it  would  l)0  a  stage  draw. 

n!!;  comes  the  powwow.   These  Italians  are  neve 
satisfied  with  what  you  ''"veugre^l  topay  them,  an 
so  I  stood  tor  twenty  minutes  m  the  midst  ot  a  hall 
ao.en  howling  savages  trying  to  P^Y  ^^em   w   a 
l,aa  promised.     This  over,  we   mounted   »«   hors.s 
"d  ro,le  olV  towards  the   nearest  railway  station. 
We  had  not  gone  far  when  we  came  to  a  hue   hed  ot 


I 


I 


ii 


2S^  OIIK  TOUR  AKOUND   THE   WOBLD 

ashes;    and  hearing  ,harp  excUmations   from   th« 
K..ul«  >ehuKl   „,e,  I  looked  around   in   time  Z  Z, 
Mrn   Trotter's  horse  quietly  l<neeli„g  down,  L    the, 
treoh.ng  himself  at  full   length,  gently    aying  ,^ 
Ins  l.nrden  on  the  np,.er  side   while  ne  roll^  „ve 
down  the  n,o„nt„in,  saddle  and  all.     There  was  n. 
«tom.n,g  hun  till    he  had  finished    his  roll,  wT.e  .  h 
«'.t   up  an.    seemed   ready  to  complete  theToTnev 
H.  an  „pr,ght  position.     The  little  trotter  who  k2 
a  journal  wh,„h  he  wrote  up  each  evening  in  his  ow 
way,  has  g.ven  this  description  of  the  incident     "' 
Het  on  at  full  speed,  but  soon   stopped   to  le    then 
-me  up  w.th  „,e.    They  had  no  sooner  got  up  wZ 
I  ol,.erved  a  commotion,  and  on  looking  back  I  saw 
n«„.„,„-s  horse  rolling  on  the  ground  and   mam  ml 

1 ;;; 'nf x  u? ? •""■ '"  °'~"""ed -tot 

..hment.     V\  e  all  had  a  good   laugh,  and   a„>   was 

We  arrived  at  the  railway  at  half-past  eight,  and 
had  t,.  wait  half  an  hour  for  the  train.  During  -Z 
interval,  our  actor  expressed  a  .lesire  to  have  a  glass 
of  uulk  to  cool  his  "parched  tongue."  B„t  as  we 
ha.  discharged  onr  guides,  he  had  s.,me doubt  ab.,„t 
n...kn,g  himself  understood.  I  gave  him  the  Italian 
«"r.l  for  m,lk,  and  after  practicing  on  it  a  few  min- 

nm  H,   to  the  wa<ting-r..om  with  a  sad  countenance. 

w-.rd  for  milk;  and  the  sh,.p.keepers simpiv  L.oked 
at  one  another  and  smiled.  I  suggeste<l  that  perhaps 
•he  people  did  not  understand  Italian.  But  he  hinted 


I 


■^ 


CLIMBING    MOUNT    VESUVIUH 


m) 


tlirtt  prnlmWIy  my  Italian  was  at  fault.  WliotluT  lie 
got  the  wrong  word  for  milk,  or  there  was  no  milk 
in  the  town,  or  the  shop  people  took  the  actor  U)r 
an  idiot,  remains  a  mystery  to  this  day.  MornI: 
Always  speak  English  when  you  can  speak  nothing 
else  correctly. 

We  reached  Naples  at  10  p.  m.  tired  and  hungry, 
but  well  satisfied  with  our  day's  work. 


t 


i 


;   I 


a 


LETTER   XL. 

80   WE    VVK.NT    TOWARIJ    HOME." 


Thih  ifl  what  ]. like  Hjiys  of  Paul  and  hisoompanions 
when  they  l-H't  Piit.M»li,  a  luwn  on  th«^  hay  jiear  Na- 
ph^s  on  tht  ir  way  h.  K<.n)o.  We  lullosved'  I'aul'H  ex- 
ainph'.  \V.'  w.-rc  of  PauTH  way  «.f  tJiinking  wlien  |»e 
Hai<l:  "J  must  ais(»  Hee  Home.  *'  Al  'JSh^  v.  m.  on 
July  im,  \VH  took  a  fa^t  train  from  Naples,  and  passed 
tliroiii^h  soiuH  heautiful  (M)untry  on  tliuwavto  Kome. 
We  saw  much  tinit  lieinp  wliich  had  heen  taken  from 
rich  land;  als(j  many  line  li^,  orange  and  lemon  trees, 
and  vineyards.  Hut  there  is  ph,i)ty  of  jioi.r,  hilly 
land  in  Southern  Italy.  We  saw  acres  of  corn  not 
more  than  two  or  three  feet  hi^di, topped  at  the  snuUI 
ear,  whirrh  was  hanging,' only  a  few  inches  fnun  the 
ground.  We  arrived  at  Flome  at  Silo  p.  m  ,  and 
stopped  at  the  Grand  Continental  Jlotel,  near  the 
railway  stat  ion.  We  experienced  a  leeling  of  satisfac- 
tion wjjen  we  realized  we  were  actually  in  the '' Eter- 
nal City." 

We  started  early  next  morning  in  an  open-topped 
carriage,  and  spent  the  whole  day  in  sight-seeing. 
Under  the  <lirection  of  a  splendid  guide,  L.  Key- 
naud,  ;{  Pia/za  di  Spagna,  Rome,  we  were  ahle  to  see 
very   much   of    Rome  in   one  day    and  two  nights 

240 


( 


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Among  tlie  many  interesting  plucfs  we  viwitcMl  1  may 
mention  tlie  following,  which  wo  saw  in  tho  (>r(h»r 
named:  The  bone-dHpository  in  the  Cupuchin  C(Mi- 
vent,  St.  Peter's  Church,  the  Vjiti(!iin  Lihniry,  the 
Tarpeian  Hock,  the  Ontac<)nil)s,  the  Scuiu  Siinta,  or 
Holy  Stairway,  the  ColosHeuin,  the  Puhice  of  Nero, 
the  Arch  of  Titns,  the  Foriini, Paul's  Prison  and  the 
Fountain  of  Trevi.  We  crosHcd  tlm  Tiber  a  number 
of  times,  over  which  a  beautiful  and  costly  new 
bridge  is  being  built  near  the  old  one  on  whi(;h  \\v 
crossed. 

The  bone-house  was  a  ghastly  curiosity.  We 
descended  a  llight  of  Hte])fi  into  the  basement  room 
of  the  convent  and  stood  in  what  resembled  Kzckii  Ts 
valley  of  dry  bones.  At  Hrst  a  sensi'  of  horror  <'n'p( 
over  us,  which  was  soon  changed  into  amusement, 
and  finally  into  a  feeling  of  disgust  at  such  folly 
and  superstition.  Mark  Twain's  description  of  tins 
depository  in  "Innocents  Abroad"  is  true  to  the  let- 
ter: "Here  was  a  spectacle  for  stMisitive  nerves  I 
Evidently  the  old  nuisters  had  been  at  work  in  this 
place.  There  were  six  divisions  in  the  ai)artment, 
and  each  division  was  onuimented  with  a  style  n\' 
decoration  peculiar  to  itself— and  tliesn  decorations 
were  in  every  instance  formed  of  Innnan  bones! 
There  were  shapely  arches,  built  wholly  of  tliigli 
bones;  there  were  startling  pyramids,  built  wholly 
of  grinning  skulls;  there  wen^  (piint  aichite(!tiiral 
structures  of  vari<»us  kinds,  built  of  shin-bones  and 
the  bones  of  the  arm;  on  the  wall  w.-re  elaborati, 
frescoes,  whose  curving  vines  were  mad<'  of  knotlei'i 


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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  145S0 

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l\ 


'2i2  OUR   TOUR   AROUND   THE  WORLD 

human  vertebrae;  whose  delicate  tendrils  were  made 
of  sinews  and  tendons;  whose  flowers  were  formed  of 
knee-caps  and  toe-nails.  Every  lasting  portion  of 
the  human  frame  was  represented  in  these  intricate 
designs  (they  were  by  Michael  Angelo,  1  think),  and 
there  was  a  careful  finish  about  the  work,  and  an 
attention  to  details  that  betrayed  the  artist's  love  of 
his  labors  as  well  as  his  schooled  ability.  I  asked 
the  good-natured  monk  who  accompanied  us,  who 
did  this?  And  he  said,  '  We  did  it' — meaning  him- 
self and  his  brethren  upstairs.  I  could  see  that  the 
old  fri'ar  took  a  high  pride  in  his  curious  show." 
If  the  collection  of  the  human  bones  is  a  necessary 
part  of  the  final  resurrection,  there  will  evidently  be 
a  great  stirring  here  when  Gabriel  sounds  his 
trumpet.  Some  time  before  our  visit  a  number  of 
American  ladies  were  cautiously  paying  their  respects 
to  these  sacred  bones,  when  the  rats,  which  had  made 
their  nest  under  the  wrappings  of  an  undisseoted 
skeleton,  began  to  move  the  ghastly  object  about 
at  a  lively  rate,  causing  the  terrified  ladies  to  flee 
from  the  place,  believing  that  the  resurrection  had 
already  begun.  We  breathed  more  freely  on  the  out- 
side of  this  building 

J  shall  attempt  no  description  of  St  Peter's  Church. 
This  has  been  attempted  by  many  writers;  but  I  have 
seen  no  description  that  does  it  justice.  It  is  vast 
and  im])osing  f)eyon(i  comprehension.  It  is  the  larg- 
est churcli  building  in  tiie  world,  and  is  built  in  the 
shnji!'  of  M  Latin  cross.  On  tlic  insidr  v.i-  s.-sw  work- 
men, away  up  toward  the  top  of  tlie  walls,  who  looked 


"so  WB  WENT  TOWARD  ROME"  243 

like  dolls  moving  about.  As  you  stand  at  the  en- 
trance and  look  at  men  and  women  at  the  opposite 
end,  they  appear  as  children  walking.  All  the  pic- 
tures adorning  this  great  building  are  inlaid,  or  mo- 
saic. On  our  left,  near  the  entrance,  was  situated 
the  Baptismal  Chapel.  Over  the  font  is  a  life-size 
picture  of  .fesus  and  John  the  15ap{ist.  Both  are 
standing  ankle-deep  in  tlie  edge  of  a  small  stream, 
while  the  Baptist  is  pouring  water  out  of  a  shell  on 
the  Saviour's  head.  Such  is  the  fancy  of  Roman 
Catholicism.  Here  at  the  small  font  we  also,  saw  a 
fat  priest  christen  an  infant,  in  the  presence  of  about 
a  dozen  people.  He  first  dipped  his  fingers  in  holy 
water  and  touched  the  infant's  face;  then  he  put  on 
a  few  drops  of  holy  oil,  after  which  he  poured  a  small 
pitcherful  of  water  on  its  head  and  dried  it  with 
a  towel;  and  finally  he  lighted  a  caudle  and  gave  it 
to  the  father  of  the  child  to  hold  a  moment.  This 
completed  the— what?  Two  or  three  Italian  girls 
belonging  to  the  party  were  laughing  all  through 
the  ceremony,  as  though  they  considered  it  rare  fun. 
On  the  same  side,  half-way  down  the  church,  we 
saw  several  detached  confessional  boxes,  one  for 
those  speaking  each  of  the  principal  languages.  A 
perforated  brass  plate  separates  the  priest  from  the 
confessor.  The  secrets  are  passed  back  and  forth 
llirough  the  small  holes.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the 
l)uilding  is  the  most  holy  place,  in  which  Christ  is 
said  to  be  preserved  in  the  form  of  a  loaf  of  bread; 
and  before  it  were  people  on  their  knees  worshiping. 
Near  the  great  altar  is  a  bronze  statue  of  Peter,  life 


244  OUR  TOUR  AROUND  THE   WORLD 

size,  the  great  toe  and  part  of  the  other  toes  having 
been  kissed  away  by  the  people.     On  special  occa-  'f 

sions  the  police  stand  by  this  statue  and   preserve 
order,  while  the  long  lines  of  worshipers  file  by  and 
kiss  what  remains  of  the  stump  foot.     The  next  ob- 
ject that  attracted  our  attention  was  a    beautiful 
marble    £>tatue   of  a  woman,    representing    Truth. 
Originally  it  was  nude;  but  one  of  the  old   popes, 
thinking  it  immodest,  ordered  it  draped.  The  people 
did  not  like  the  pope's  action,  and  in  referring  to  it, 
said  they  preferred  the  naked  Truth.     Since  then  it 
has  gone  by  the  name  of  "Naked  Truth,"  and  this 
fact,  it  is  claimed,  has  given  rise  to  the  expression 
in  current  conversation.  We  walked  through  the  Vat- 
ican Library,  which  is  about  half  a  mile  long,  and 
examined  many  objects  of  interest,  chief  of  which 
to  me  was  the  celebrated  Vatican  Manuscript  of  the 
Bible,  in   book  form.     The  offer  of  $50,000  for   this 
manuscript  from  the  managers  of  the  British  Museum 
was  refused.   We  did  not  see  "His  Holiness,"  though 
we  were  close  to  him,  and  we  did   not   offer  to  kiss 
his  big  toe,  a  la  some  American    Protestants,  to  in- 
duce him  to  give  us  an  audience.    We  had  enough  to 
do  to  look  after  our  own    toes.     Pope  Leo  XI IL  is 
now  a  very  feeble  old  man,    who   considers  himself 
a  prisoner,  shut  up  in  the  Vatican,  whose  influence 
among  the  people,  even  in  Rome,  is  continually  wan- 
ing.   I  was  told  by  good  authority  that  many  of  the 
Catholic  churches  in  the  city  are  almost  deserted, 
and  that  most  of  the  people  who  do  attend  them  have 
no  heart  in  it,  but  do  so  as  a  mere  form.  Our  guide,  a 


"so  WE    WENT    TOWARD  ROME"  245 

very  intelligent  man,  who  is  thoroughly  acquainted 
with  ancient  and  present  Rome,  first  took  me  for  a 
good  Catholic,  and  so  when  he  stood  before  the  holy 
relics  of  the  Church  his  tone  was  exceedingly  rever- 
ent. Later,  when  he  saw  me  smile  at  some  of  his 
stories,  be  thought  I  must  be  a  poor  Catholic;  and 
finally  he  concluded  that  I  was  no  Catholic  at  all. 
Then  he  opened  his  heart  to  us.  He  thought  the 
"saints"  were  honored  more  than  Christ,  for  he  said 
there  are  360  Catholic  Churches  in  Rome,  and  not 
one  of  them  is  named  for  Christ. 

The  Tarpeian  Rock,  down  which  criminals  were 
thrown  during  the  ancient  Roman  period,  had  a 
precipitous  side  nearly  a  hundred  feet  high.  It  is 
now  considerably  filled  up  at  the  bottom,  and  its 
top  is  occupied  with  houses. 

The  Catacombs  are  outside  the  city ;  and  to  visit 
them  we  drove  along  the  Appian  Way,  over  which 
Paul  came  into  the  city  a  prisoner,  and  out  on  which 
he  is  said  to  liave  been  beheaded.  As  we  passed  out 
under  the  great  archway  of  the  old  city  wall,  the 
driver  paused;  and  the  guide,  pointing  to  these  mas- 
sive structures,  said:  "I  will  now  show  you  the  evi- 
dences of  the  beginning  of  Rome's  downfall,"  We 
thought  that  these  things  looked  more  like  evidences 
of  Rome's  prosperity.  But  the  guide  explained  that 
when  Rome  was  the  mistress  of  the  world  she  needed 
only  her  soldiers  to  protect  her.  But  when  her  armies 
were  gradually  being  driven  from  the  field,  and  her 
enemies  were  closing  in  on  the  city,  it  was  then  that 
she  needed  the  walls  of  defense.     The    guide   was 


¥ 


246  OUR   TOUR   AROUND  THE   WORLD 

right.  But  here  are  the  Catacombs.  We  alight  from 
the  carriage,  walk  a  short  distance,  pay  an  entrance 
fee  to  an  old  monk  who  gave  each  of  us  a  lighted 
taper,  and  we  all  descended  by  u  long  flight  of  steps 
into  the  bowels  of  the  earth.  We  walked  miles  along 
deep,  dark,  damp  passages  and  through  small  cham- 
bers, excavated  in  the  soft  volcanic  rock,  whose  walls 
are  everywhere  honeycombed  with  places,  or  loculi, 
for  the  repose  of  dead  bodies.  The  galleries  usually 
preserve  the  same  level,  are  from  two  to  three  feet 
wide, interspersed  with  the  small  chambers  and  cross- 
ing one  another  every  few  steps,  forming  a  vast 
labyrinth.  It  was  like  following  the  lines  of  a  great 
checker-board.  Almost  every  foot  of  the  walls  of 
these  galleries  and  chambers  has  been  occupied  with 
a  human  body.  The  graves  extended  parallel  with 
the  length  of  the  galleries,  and  were  placed  one  above 
another  from  the  bottom  to  the  top.  The  bodies 
were  carefully  placed  in  the  recesses, and  the  openings 
were  filled  with  stone  slabs  or  tiles  and  then  com- 
pletely plastered  over,  making  a  smooth  wall  when 
all  the  locnli  were  filled.  From  many  of  the  graves 
the  plastering  had  been  broken  away,  and  the  bones 
were  exposed.  The  bones  were  so  old  that  the  mo- 
ment you  touched  them  they  crumbled  to  dust. 
Light  and  air  are  introduced  by  means  of  vertical 
shafts,  sunk  from  the  surface  of  the  ground.  These 
Catacombs  constitute  a  most  wonderful  underground 
cemetery.  The  united  length  of  the  galleries  has 
been  estimated  to  be  from  800  to  900  miles,  and  the 
number  of  graves  at  between  6,000,000  and  7,000,000. 


•> 


r. 


"so  WE  WENT  TOWARD  ROME"  247 

It  is  now  generally  believed  that  they  were  the  work 
of  the  early  Christians,  and  that  they  were  intended 
as  the  place  of  interment  of  their  dead.  What  a 
mighty  army  of  Christian  soldiers  1  No  wonder  that 
heathen  Rome,  in  fulfillment  of  prophecy,  went  down 
under  its  influence. 

The  Catacombs  were  also  used  in  time  of  persecu- 
tion as  a  place  of  refuge,  and  some  of  the  chambers 
were  converted  into  chapels  for  worship.  These  facts 
are  proclaimed  by  the  many  Christian  symbols 
which  may  still  be  seen  on  the  walls,  the  tables  for 
the  observance  of  the  Lord's  Supper  and  baptisteries 
for  the  immersion  of  the  new  converts.  They  would 
serve  as  an  admirable  hiding  place.  When  you  once 
get  well  into  this  labyrinth  you  feel  that  you  would 
be  utterly  helpless  to  find  your  way  to  the  outside 
.world  without  a  guide.  Our  guide  told  us  that  he 
had  to  drill  a  great  deal  before  he  would  venture  to 
take  parties  into  them  A  French  artist  once  had 
great  difficulty  in  finding  his  way  out  of  the  Cata- 
combs. An  atheist  was  lost  for  a  number  of  davs  in 
•^  them,  and  he  was  so  impressed  during  the  time  that 

he  became  a  convert  to  Christianity.  It  is  said  that 
an  American  gentleman,  who  boasted  much  of  the 
progress  of  his  country,  visited  the  Catacombs,  some 
years  ago,  in  company  with  a  number  of  Europeans; 
and  becoming  intoxicated,  his  companions  laid  him 
in  a  passage,  retired  and  listened  to  see  what  he 
would  say  when  he  realized  his  surroundings.  After 
a  while  he  regained  a  measure  of  his  usual  clearness 
of  mind,  looked  around  on  the  closed  graves  and  ex- 


248  OUR  TOUR  AROUND   THE   WORLD 


Jj 


claimed:  "Hello,  the  resurrection  morn,and  Ameri- 
ca up  first,  ns  usu;il  I" 

The  Holy  SUiirw.-iy  bus  tweiily-eight  marble  steps, 
which  aru  now  covered  with  wood  to  prevent  their 
further  aljrasion    It  is  chiiined  that  this  is  the  stair-  . 

way  which  Jesus  ascended  when  lie  was   brought  be-  1 

fore  Pilate,  and  on  tliree  of  them  are  pointed  out 
drops  of  the  Saviour's  blood.  We  saw  in  Jerusalem 
the  place  from  which,  according  to  tradition,  this 
stairway  was  taken.     The  good  Catholic  who  climbs  !j 

these  steps  on  his  knees  and  kisses  the  three  drops  I 

of  blood  is  very  near  the  portals  of  heaven  I  It  was 
up  these  steps  that  Luther  was  crawling  when  he  was 
specially  impressed  with  the  central  thought  of  the 
Protestant  Reformation.  We  watched  a  lady  go  from 
the  bottom  to  the  top.     It  was  a  laborious  process,  \ 

We  preferred  to  go  another  way.  There  is  a  stair- 
way on  the  right  and  another  on  the  left  of  the  holy 
one.     We  ascended  one  of  these,  with  the  goats. 

What  shall  I  say  of  the  Colosseum?  We  were 
much  impressed  with  this  vast  heathen  ruin.     Here  \ 

again  the  evidences  of  Rome's  grandeur  and  Rome's  ^' 

decay  meet.  Most  of  its  stately  columns  and  mas- 
sive walls  are  still  standing  to  tell  their  wonderful 
story.  To  this  theatre  all  Rome  resorted  to  witness 
the  bloody  conflicts.  It  is  about  612  feet  long,  515 
feet  wide,  and  180  feet  high.  It  had  seats  for  87,- 
CX)0  people,  and  standing  room  for  15,000  more.  We 
stood  in  the  arena  where  gladiatorial  combats  took 
place,  and  in  which  many  thousands  of  Christians 
suffered  martyrdom.  We  saw  the  dens  in  which  tlie 
hungry  wild  beasts  were  kept,  and  from  which  they 


■^ 


k 


I 


"8()    WE  WENT  TOWARD    ROME"  249 


aprang  forth,  as  the  strong  doors  swung  open,  to  de- 
vour their  human  prey.  Yonder  is  the  seat  wliich  tlie 
Emperor  occupied, surrounded  by  the  seats  of  senators 
and  other  distinguished  persons,  and  over  there  is  the 
.  fountain  at  whicJi  the  participants  in  the  cruel  sports 

j  washed  and  dressed  themselves.     When  a  few  mo- 

ments later  we   stood  in   Paul's  deep,  chilly  prison, 
in  which  he  wrote,  ''I  was  delivered  out  of  the  mouth 
of  the  lion,"  we  had  no  doubt  that  he  fully  under- 
l|  stood  the  meaning  of  contending  with  wild  beasts. 

i  We  could  also  realize  his  need  when  he  wrote  to  Tim- 

^  othy  in  the  same  epistle,  saying:     "The  cloak  that 

I  left  at  Troas  with  Carpus,  when  thou  comest,  bring 
with  thee." 

Our  carriage   stopped  under  the  marble   Arch  of 
\  Titus,  which  spans  the  street,and  which  Titus  erected 

to  commemorate  his  conquest  of  Jerusalem  in  A.  D. 
70.  Above  our  heads,  on  our  left,  were  sculptured 
representations  of  the  golden  table  of  showbread 
and  the  golden  candlestick,  being  carried  by  Jews. 
J  Thus  this   well-preserved   arch   has  stood   for  more 

*^  than  eighteen   hundred  years  as  an   unmistakable 

monument  of  the  truthfulness  of  the  Holy  Scriptures. 
We  looked  for  the  seven  hills  of  ancient  Rome; 
but  they  were  not  very  conspicuous.  They  were  only 
small  hills  which  have  partly  disappeared.  Indeed, 
Rome  appears  to  be  built  on  a  level  area,  and  it  is 
surrounded  by  some  swampy  country.  It  possesses 
many  nice  streets,  tall  business  houses  and  hand- 
some residences.  We  saw  numerous  beer-shops, 
bare-footed  priests  and  gorgeously  uniformed  soldiers. 
4  But  notwithstanding  all  its  defects,  Rome   presents 

many  attractions  and  a  pleasing  appearance 


LETTER  XLI. 

FROM  ROME  TO  PARIS. 

We  left  Rome  on  Tuesday  morning,  July  31,  at 
8:10.  Our  train  skirted  the  Mediterranean  Sea, 
sometimes  running  quite  close  to  it,  and  the  country 
through  which  we  passed  was  flat  and,  in  places, 
swampy.  At  several  farm-houses  along  the  line,  the 
people  were  engaged  in  threshing  their  wheat.  At 
*i  p.  M.  we  arrived  at  Pisa,  and  we  took  rooms  at  the 
Royal  Victoria  Hotel. 

Our  object  in  stopping  at  Pisa  was  to  see  its  four 
famous  monuments,  the  Leaning  Tower,  the  Cathe- 
dral, the  Baptistery  and  the  Campo  Santo,  or  Holy 
Ground.  We  climbed  to  the  top  of  the  Tower  by  an 
inner,  spiral  stairway,  and  had  a  very  extensive 
view.  The  city  is  not  large,  is  partly  surrounded 
by  an  old  wall  and  stands  on  the  banks  of  the  Arno, 
which  winds  its  way  through  a  fertile  plain.  This 
marble-cased,  cylindrical  tower  is  about  175  feet 
high,  50  feet  in  diameter,  and  overhangs  its  base 
more  than  13  feet.  The  summit  is  secured  with 
double  rails,  and  a  few  feet  lower  is  a  belfry,  in 
which  are  hanging  seven  bells.  When  you' stand  on 
top  of  this  tower,  the  people  and  horses  on  the  streets 
look  very  small,  and  when  you  look  over  the   lower 

250 


PROM    ROME  TO  PARIS  251 

edge  of  it  you  possess  a  sense  of  fear,  as  though  the 
thing  might  fall  with  you. 

We  did  not  feel  much   interest  in  the  fine  Cathe- 
dral, and  so  we  spent  most  of  our  time  in  the  Bap- 
tistery, which  stands  a  short  distance  in  the  rear  of 
*  the  Cathedral.     This  is  a  circular,  marble  buildinjjj, 

about  100  feet  in  diameter,  and  is  covered  with  ji 
cone-surmounted  dome  190  feet  high,  crowned 
with  a  statue  of  St.  Raniero.  In  the  interior  tliere 
is  a  beautiful  pool  for  the  immersion  of  adults  nnd 
infants,  the  principal  part  of  which  is  0  feet  square 
and  8^  feet  deep.  The  building  was  commenced  in  A. 
D.  1153.     We  tested  its  remarkable  echo. 

The  little  enclosed  cemetery  near  the  Catliedral, 
in  which  the  distinguished  men  of  Pisa  are  buried, 
was  made  holy  ground  by  the  fifty-three  ship  \ondH  oi 
dirt  brought  from  Jerusalem  and  deposited  here.  Wo 
did  not  become  very  enthusiastic  over  such  holiness. 

We  took  the  night  train  from  Pisa,  and  we  thought 
we  had  secured  a  compartment  to  ourselves.  P>ut 
an  Italian  lady  and  gentleman  managed  to  get  in 
with  us  ajid  prevented  our  sleeping  most  of  the  night 
by  their  constant  talking.  We  were  better  pleased 
with  Northern  Italy  than  we  were  with  Sontln^ni 
Italy.  The  corn,  we  noticed,  was  nuieh  larger,  and 
the  oranges,  lemons,  figs  and  grai)eshad  mostly  given 
place  to  apples,  peaches,  a])rico(s  and  pears.  The 
country  had  a  green,  fresii  apjx'aranee.  We  saw  scv 
eral  women  assisting  tlie  nviw  in  savin<^^  hnv.  Thcv 
seemed  to  have  "equal  vIhIiIs"  with  tli"  nifii  We 
expected    to   take    breakfast    ;il     In 

i 


A.  V,  Ii<-r.'    \v(i 


252  OUR  TOUR   AROUND  THE   WORLD 

changed  oars.  But  as  onr  train  was  behind  time  in 
reacliing  that  city,  wo  luid  only  timn  to  pass  luirriediy 
from  one  train  to  the  other.  We  eouhl  get  nothing 
to  eat  till  the  afternoon,  nxeept  a  loat  of  hread  and 
some  peaches  wiiich  we  |)iircha.sed  from  a  woman 
through  the  car  window,  an<l  tiieMe  w^.  washed  down 
with  water  We  thought  of  Henry  Stanley's  "Star- 
vation Camp,"  in  Africa  However,  we  i)artially 
made  up  for  the  loss  of  our  breakfast  in  feasting  our 
eyes  on  the  scenery.  We  were  now  gradually  as- 
cending the  famous  Alps,  along  a  winding  ravine, 
down  which  a  clear  stream  of  water  was  running, 
and  on  both  sides  of  us  were  the  towering  mountain 
peaks,  partly  covered  with  forests  and  streaked  with 
snow.  We  passed  through  numerous  short  tunnels, 
and  finally  through  Mont  Cenis  tunnel,  7^  miles  long, 
and  which  required  40  minutes  to  pass  through  it. 
We  entered  the  tunnel  from  Italy,  and  came  out  of 
it  at  Modane,  in  France.  Here  we  passed  through 
the  Custom  House,  and  changed  trains  for  Paris. 
We  descended  the  Alps  with  great  rapidity,  and  next 
morning  at  5:30  the  conductor  threw  open  the  door 
of  our  compartment  and  disturbed  our  slumbers 
by  shouting,  Parie!  Parte!  We  called  a  cab  and 
drove  to  the  St.  Petersburg  Hotel,  right  in  the  heart 
of  the  city,  where  English  was  spoken,  and  where 
we  met  several  Americans.  This  time  we  had  our 
breakfast. 

After  getting  settled  in  our  rooms,  we  hired  a  car- 
riage,driver  and  an  English-speaking  guide,and  spent 
the  day  in   seeing  as  much  of   Paris  as  we  could. 


^ 


FROM    \U)y\K  TO  PAUI8  25*^ 

Thomas  Cook's  ui^Hiits  were  (jondiicting  excursions 
over  the  city,  but  we  do  not  iike;  .^iglit-secing  with 
rt  large  company  of  people.  We  drove  through  many 
of  the  great  thorough  fares,  visited  seVni-al  of  the 
principal  objects  of  interest  and  pronounced  Paris 
the  most  beautiful  city  we  had  seen.  We  admired 
the  River  Seine,  which  runs  through  the  city.  After 
seeing  St  Peter's  at  Rome,  we  were  not  particularly 
interested  in  seeing  Notre  Dame.  Yet,  il  is  a  splendid 
building,  and  has  an  interesting  history.  It  is  seated 
with  rough  cane-bottom  chairs.  Its  treasury  in- 
cludes fragments  of  Christ's  cross,  the  crown  of 
thorns,  a  nail  from  the  cross,  etc.  Again  our  faith 
in  holy  relics  was  severely  tried. 

The  Arch  of  Triumph  is  the  finest  triumphal  arch 
in  existence.  It  stands  on  an  eminence  and  can  i)e 
seen  from  nearly  all  parts  of  the  city  It  is  1(50  foot 
high,  14(5  feet  broad,  72  feet  deep  and  cost  $2,000,- 
000.  From  its  top  you  have  a  very  fine  view  of  the 
city.  It  is  the  centre  whence  radiate  twelve  fine  ave- 
nues, which  slope  upward  to  the  arch,  forming  what 
is  called  the  "Star  "  The  streets  of  Paris  are  broad, 
well  shaded  and  kept  in  excellent  condition.  From 
the  summit  of  the  arch, Paris  appears  to  be  built  on 
a  circular  plain,  with  a  slightly  raised  edge.  Around 
on  this  rim  are  the  defenses  of  the  city.  The  Eitfel 
Tower  was  in  plain  view,  lifting  its  graceful  head 
985  feet  toward  the  clouds;  but  after  standing  on 
the  Arc  de  Trlomphe,  we  had  no  desire  to  ascend  the 

EilYel  Tower. 
At  night,   as  we  were  taking  a  walk  aloug   the 


264  OUR  TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD 

Champs  Elysees,  the  fashiouable  promenade  of  Paris, 
we  saw  crowds  of  people  turning  to  the  left  into  a 
park.     We  thought  we  would  follow  and  see   what 
caused  the  attraction.     We  soon    found  ourselves 
inside  a  large  covered  area  with  open   sides    Admis- 
sion was  free,  and  the  place  was  brilliantly  lighted, 
and  filled   with  thousands  of  the  fashionable    ladies 
and  gentlemen  of  the  city.     At  one  end  was  a  large 
platform,  in  front  of  which  was  a  band  playing.   We 
took  our  seats,  and  quietly  awaited  whatever  was  to 
come.     We  soon  learned  that  we  were  expected   to 
take  soine  refreshments,  and  to  pay  for  them  accord- 
ing to  the  seat  we  occupied.    We  chose  two  glasses  of 
Irimouade,  which  cost  us  six  francsl     Soon  the  fun 
commenced.     A  middle-aged  woman  came  on  to  the 
platform  and  sang  very  nicely.     Then  a  girl,  who 
sang  and   hopped  about  at  a  lively  rate.     Then  a 
young  lady  appeared  in  full  evening  costume,  which 
got  fuller  the   longer  she  remained  on  the  platform. 
She  sang,  she  danced,  she— well,    perhaps  the  less 
said  about  it  the  better.    We  put  our  hands  over  our 
faces  and  retired,  having  learned  a  lesson  in  Parisian 
manners  and  morals. 


' 


LETTER  XLII. 

FROM  PARIS  TO  LONDON. 

On  Friday  morning,  Augusts,  at  8: 10,  we  took  the 
train  at  Paris  for  Calais.  We  much  enjoyed  our 
ride  through  France.  An  hour  from  Paris  brought 
us  into  the  midst  of  the  farming  country,  wiiich 
presented  a  pleasing  prospect.  It  is  thickly  popn- 
lated,  the  land  is  divided  into  small  sections  and  is 
under  a  high  state  of  cultivation  The  houses  arn 
mostly  small,  tile-covered  and  surrounded  by  p<.plar 
and  other  ornamental  trees,  so  nuuierous,  in  places, 
as  to  give  the  appearance  of  a  tiaibered  country. 
Extensive  vegetable  and  flower  gardens  were  also  nu- 
merous. We  saw  many  fine  apple  and  peach  orchards. 
There  were  green  pastures,  on  which  cattle  and 
horses  were  grazing.  The  people  were  busy  harvest- 
ing their  wheat  and  oats,  and  here,  as  in  Italy,  the 
women  were  assisting  in  the  fields.  In  places  men 
were  plowing  the  ground  and  rolling  it  with  large 
rollers.  The  French  peasants  evidently  have  reason 
to  be  a  prosperous  and  contented  people.  The  air 
was  cool  enough  for  me  to  feel  quite  comfortable  in 
my  overcoat. 

We  arrived  at  Cnlais  at   5^   i*.    m.,  the  tr.iin   going 
right  to  the  pier.      We  were  soon  transferred  to  our 

265 


il! 


'2m 


OUR   TOUR   AROUND   THE  WORLD 


:?•«>■ 


?&  ., 

.K.  >)■!.■" 

m 


boat,  thus  taking  our  leave  of  French  soil.  One 
hour's  smooth  sailing  across  the  English  Channel 
brought  us  to  Dover,  England.  Here  a  fast  train 
for  London  awaited  us.  That  portion  of  England 
through  which  we  passed  was  beautiful  The  coun- 
try looked  more  like  a  succession  of  well-kept  gar- 
dens, divided  by  low  hedge  fences,  than  like  farms. 
Again  we  were  attracted  by  the  tile-covered  farm 
houses,  the  people  harvesting  and  threshing  their 
wheat,  and  mowing  their  meadows.  The  English 
women  wouhl  not  be  behind  the  French  wives  and 
maidens,  for  some  of  them  were  also  assisting  in  hay- 
making After  all,  it  is  possible  that  such  an  active, 
outdoor  life  is  more  healthful  to  body  and  more 
wholesome  to  mind  and  morals  than  political  speech- 
making  In  the  meadows  of  Italy,  France,  England 
and  America  there  is  an  abundance  of  room  for  the 
women,  who  are  thus  inclined,  to  exercise  ''equal 
rights.  ■ '  It  is  a  far  more  laudable  business  than  be- 
ing engaged  in  writing  a  so-called  "Woman's  Bible." 
Onr  train  moved  into  the  Cannon  Street  station, 
London,  at  5:30  p.  m.,  and  we  stopped  over  night  at 
the  Cannon  Street  Hotel. 

No,  thank  you,  I  do  not  propose  to  write  up  Lon- 
don. You  must  be  satisfied  with  a  bit  of  our  personal 
experience  in  the  "world's  metropolis."  Well,  in 
the  first  place,  we  were  not  pleased  with  the  London 
hotels.  They  are  nearly  all  conducted  on  the  tariff 
system,  charging  separately  for  each  principal  item 
that  goes  to  make  u[)  the  accommodation  and  meals. 
When  I  settled  our  bill  next  morning  I  was  charged 


■^ 


PROM   PARIS  TO    LONDON 


25' 


:i 


One 
iiiiel 
train 
;land 
50un- 

gar- 
arms. 
farm 
their 
iglish 
3  and 
Li  hay- 
ictive, 

more 
peech- 
igland 
:or  the 
'equal 
lan  be- 
3ible." 
tation, 
ight  at 

ip  Lon- 
lersonal 
/"ell,  in 
London 
e  tariff 
al  item 
i  meals, 
charged 


four  shillings  and  sixpence  for  service  in  our  rooms. 
The  only  service  we  had  here  received  consisted  in 
Lady  Bridget  sticking  her  head  in  at  the  door  the 
evening  before  and  asking  if  we  needed  anything. 
When  I  returned  to  our  rooms,  I  began  to  turn  the 
l)ed8  upside  down  and  misplace  things  generally. 
Mrs.  Trotter  looked  on  in  astonishment,  and  asked 
me  if  I  had  gone  mad.  I  explained  that  I  was  not 
mad,  but  as  I  had  just  paid  four  shillings  and  six- 
ponce  for  room-service  I  thought  it  right  that  the  serv- 
ant should  give  us  the  worth  of  the  money.  At  one 
o'clock,  when  we  left  the  hotel.  Lady  Bridget  had 
not  made  her  appearance.  When  we  took  our  seats 
at  the  breakfast  table,  a  stately  figure,  dressed  in 
black  clothes,  emerged  from  a  side  room  and  moved 
slowly  towards  us,  as  he  put  the  finishing  touches 
on  his  toilet.  We  hardly  knew  whether  it  was  Lord 
Creeper  approaching  us  to  introduce  himself,  or  a 
servant  dispatched  to  wait  on  us  at  the  table.  It 
proved  to  be  the  latter.  As  we  expected  to  spend 
several  davs  in  London,  we  removed  to  what  was  ad- 
vertised  as  a  first-class  boarding-house,  adjoining  the 
British  Museum.  We  selected  this  place  because  it 
atforded  us  a  rare  opportunity  of  studying  the  un- 
paralleled collection  of  interesting  objects  in  the 
museum.  Here  we  found  several  American  boarders. 
We  had  an  abundance  of  room  and  plenty  of  style; 
but  the  food  was  utterly  inadequate  to  satisfy  the 
appetite  of  a  hungry  American.  It  was  easy  to  read 
their  disappointment  in  the  faces  of  the  boarders. 
They  finished  each  meal  hungry.     The  lady  of  the 


25S  OVR   TOUR   AROUND   THE    WORLD 

house,  who   sat  at  the  head  of  the  table,  tried  to 
keep  us  cheerful  by  lier  pleasant  conversation.     But 
we  all  with  one  accord  got  sadder  and  sadder,  as  the 
days  passed.     The    English  liang  up  their  fowls   to 
"mellow"  before  they  cook  them.    They  do  not  care 
for  cheese  till   it   becomes   strong  enough    to   walk 
alone;  then  they  onii  it  "tine  old  cheese."     The  few 
crumbs  of  cheese   we  got  at  our  boarding  house  had 
a  way  of  announcing  their  approach    to  the   table. 
At  noon  on  the  fifth  day  we  reached    the  climax.     I 
arose  from  the  table  and  went  out.     I  met  near  the 
house  a  lady  boarder  from  New  York  City.   She  9aid 
in  solemn  tones:  "Mr.  Floyd,   I  have  been  thinking 
of  asking   you    what   you  think    of    our  boarding- 
house."  I  told  her  she  could  judge  my  opinion  from 
the  fact  that  I  was  on  my  way  to  find  another  board- 
ing-house.    She  said:     "I  believe  I  will  follow  your 
example."     One  by  one,  the    boarders  quietly   took 
their  departure;  while  others  filled  their  places  and 
had  the  same  experiences. 

Sunday  proved  a  busy  day  with  us.  At  11a.  m. 
I  preached,  by  invitation,  in  the  West  London  Tab- 
ernacle. At  8  p.  M.  we  heard  Canon  Wilberforce 
]n'each  in  the  Westminster  Abbey.  Wilberforce  is 
very  ])opular  in  London,  and  hence  there  was  not 
standing  room  in  the  great  building  for  the  people 
who  crowded  to  hpar  him.  The  preacher  read  his 
sf^rinon;  but  we  were  too  far  from  him  to  follow  its 
connection.  It  seemed  to  me  that  the  Abbey  was 
better  adapted  to  cover  thn  reruMins  of  some  <»f  Eng- 
land's famous  men   and   women   than   to  serve  as  a 


PROM  PARIS  TO  LONDON 


250 


house  of  worship.  After  the  service  we  got  one  of 
the  attendants  to  point  out  some  of  the  noted  graves. 
We  paused  longest  over  the  slabs  that  marked  the 
resting  place  of  Sir  Isaac  Newton  and  Dr.  David  Liv- 
ingstone. In  the  evening,  ut  ():80,  we  attended  the 
Metropolitan  Tabernacle  to  hear  Tliomas  Spurgeon, 
whom' I  knew  in  New  Zealand,  prmcli.  Ine  Taber- 
nacle was  comfortai)ly  filled,  and  Mr.  Spurgeon 
preached  a  plain,  practical  sermon.  This  church 
uses  neither  organ  nor  choir;  but  the  singing  was 
congregational  and  hearty,  the  leader  standing  on 
the  platform.  The  Lord's  Supper  was  observed  at 
the  close  of  the  service.  The  church  spreads  the 
Lord's  Table  on  every  Sunday  evening. 

We  spent  most  of  Monday  in  the  Zoological  Gar- 
dens, which  contain  8,000  animals.  Indeed,  during 
our  week's  stay  in  London  we  were  busy  seeing  what 
we  could  of  the  great  city.  We  spent  much  time  in 
the  British  Museum,  and  were  most  interested  in  the 
Egyptian,  Babylonian  and  Assyrian  Rooms.  I  can 
not  even  begin  to  tell  my  readers  in  these  letters  of 
what  we  saw  and  learned  in  this  immense  and  valua- 
ble collection.  Only  one  thing  I  will  mention.  In 
the  "Manuscript  Department"  I  copied  the  follow- 
ing: "Case  G.  A  volume  of  the  celebrated  'Codex 
Alexandrinus,' containing  the  Greek  text  of  the  Holy 
Scriptures  written  in  uncial  letters  on  very  thin  vel- 
lum, probably  in  the  middle  of  the  fifth  century. 
Presented  to  King  Charles  L  by  Cyril,  Patriarch 
of  Constantinople. "  The  manuscript  is  in  book  form, 
and  the  size  of  the  page  is  about  11  by  14  inches. 


260  OUR  TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD 

We  enjoyed  several  rides  through  the  principal  thor- 
oughfares of  London.  The  beat  way  to  see  London 
is  on  top  of  a  bus.  Most  of  the  drivers  are  well 
acquainted  with  the  city,  and  are  fond  of  telling  you 
what  they  know.  You  can  go  a  long  way  for  a  penny, 
and  for  a  few  pennies  you  can  ride  on  a  bus  all  day. 
Sometimes  your  bus  will  get  into  a  perfect  jam  of 
traffic,  at  the  point  where  a  number  of  streets  con- 
verge, and  you  will  imagine  how  you  are  going  to 
get  out.  But  the  driver,  with  the  aid  of  the  police, 
always  makes  a  way  for  your  escape  without  accident. 

We  went  to  the  East  End,  and  down  into  the  no- 
torious Whitechapel  district.  We  wanted  to  see  if 
General  Booth's  picture  of  ''Darkest  England"  is  a 
correct  one.  We  did  not  meet  "Jack  the  Ripper," 
but  we  saw  plenty  of  people  there  clothed  and  in 
their  right  mind.  We  also  saw  evidences  of  extreme 
poverty  and  vice.  But  we  believe  the  picture  has 
been  somewhat  overdrawn.  We  also  visited  the 
Houses  of  Parliament,  London  Bridge,  Tower  Bridge, 
St.  Paul's  Cathedral,  office  of  the  Christian  Common- 
wealth,  Hyde  Park,  "Cleopatra's  Needle,"  on  the 
Thames  embankment, and  had  a  number  of  boat-rides 
on  the  river  Thames. 

London  is  not  a  pretty  city.  Its  streets  and  walks 
are  narrow,  and  seldom  dry.  The  show-windows  of 
its  business  houses  do  not  always  appear  to  the  best 
advantage,  and  to  one  who  has  been  accustomed  to  a 
flood  of  Australian  sunshine,  the  city  presents  a 
gloomy  appearance. 


J 


^■^ 


^ 


LETTER  XLIII. 

PROM  LONDON  HOME. 

My  around-the- world  story  is  almost  told.  I  must 
now  hasten  to  the  finish. 

On  Friday,  August  10,  at  3:10  p.  m.,  we  left  the 
Waterloo  Station,  London,  for  Southampton.  We 
were  delighted  with  the  fine  country  through  which 
our  train  passed.  The  green  grass,  the  neat  hedges, 
the  rich  vegetable  gardens  and  the  groves  of  tall  pine 
trees,  interspersed  with  wheat  fields  and  patches  of 
native  bush,  were  very  inviting  to  the  eye.  Several 
machines  were  busy  cutting  and  threshing  the  wheat 
on  the  small  fields.  We  arrived  at  Southampton  at 
5:30  p.  M  ,  where  we  remained  till  the  following 
afternoon.  On  Saturday  morning  a  friend  from 
London,  who  was  spending  a  holiday  on  the  coast 
near  Southampton,  called  for  us  in  a  buggy,  and  took 
us  a  delightful  drive  into  the  country.  Southampton 
is  a  chilly  place,  and  we  were  glad  when  the  time 
came  to  get  away  from  it. 

We  took  passage  for  New  York  on  the  S.  S.  Bcr- 
lin,  of  the  American  Line.  At  6  p.  m  we  left  the 
wharf,  and  we  sailed  out  over  the  fine  sheet  of  water 
comprising  the  harbor,  called  the  Southampton 
Water,  bordered  with  green  grass,  ornamental   trees 

261 


262         OUR  TOUR  AROUND  THE  WORLD 

and  handsome  residences.  On  our  left,  we  passed  the 
Isle  of  Wight,  on  which  could  be  seen  the  towns  of 
Cowes,  and  Osborne  House,  the  residence  of  the 
queen. 

We  had  on  board  550  passengers,  800  of  whom 
were  in  the  steerage;  and  100  more  were  better  adapt- 
ed to  the  steerage  than  the  saloon,  as  the  sequel  will 
show.  The  passage  over  the  Atlantic  was  smooth, 
and,  with  two  exceptions,  it  was  uneventful.  On 
Sunda}^  before  our  arrival  at  New  York  the  Germans 
in  the  sale  ^n,  joined  by  some  English  and  American 
passengers,  held  an  orgy  that  began  at  noon  on  the 
Lord's  Day  and  continued  till  after  midnight.  Under 
the  influence  of  the  bad  beer  and  whisky,  supplied 
by  the  bar,  these  devotees  of  Bacchus  came  to  the 
conclusion  that  the  whole  ship  belonged  to  them. 
The  filthy  language  and  general  uproar  became  so 
unbearable  that  we  had  to  appeal  to  the  stewards 
and  stewardess,  then  to  the  chief  steward,  and  finally 
to  the  captain,  before  we  could  get  a  little  quiet  and 
rest.  This  is  a  sample  of  the  material  that  the  ships 
are  daily  dumping  on  to  the  American  continent. 
Our  immigration  and  assimilation  laws,  if  we  have 
any  worth  the  name,  are  sadly  in  need  of  serious 
attention  by  Uncle  Sam. 

On  Monday  morning  at  7  we  narrowly  escaped  a 
very  serious  accident.  As  I  went  on  deck  the  ship  was 
suddenly  thrown  into  commotion  by  coming  in  col- 
lision with  a  large  four-mast  sailing  vessel.  The  fog 
was  very  heavy,  and  the  ships  did  not  see  each  other 
till  their  bows  were  nearly  touching.     The  sailing 


"^--^"  • 


FROM    LONDON  HOME 


2(in 


•j; 


vessel  did  not  strike  us  square,  hut  glanced  off  and 
scraped  heavily  the  side  of  our  steamer,  doing  us 
no  harm.  The  Berlin  backed  up  and  spoke  the  ship; 
and  learning  that  she  was  only  slightly  damaged  and 
needed  no  assistance,  our  officers  took  her  name  and 
destination  and  moved  on.  At  the  time  of  the  col- 
lision Mrs.  Trotter  was  in  her  room,  and  the  shock, 
accompanied  by  the  sudden  closing  of  the  port-hole  by 
the  ship,  startled  her.  The  sons  of  Belial,  who  had 
given  us  so  much  trouble  during  the  night  and  who 
were  sober  enough  to  get  on  deck,  now  began  to  put 
on  serious  airs  We  felt  as  if  the  Jonahs  ought  to 
be  thrown  overboard,  and  cast  forth  on  their  native 
shores,  to  remain  till  they  repent  and  learn  decent 
manners. 

At  noon  we  passed  into  the  New  York  Harbor, 
with  the  graceful  Statue  of  Liberty  on  our  left,  and 
our  good  ship  was  soon  made   fast  to  the   wharf. — 

Native  land  I 

"Thy  name  I  love; 

I  love  thy  rocks  and  rills, 

Thy  woods  and  templed  hills; 

My  heart  with  rapture  thrills, 

Like  that  above." 
We  spent  two  nights  and  most  of  two  days  in  New 
York  City.  We  walked  over  the  wonderful  Brooklyn 
Bridge  and  visited  Brooklyn,the  "City  of  Churches," 
returning  over  the  bridge  by  train  We  were  t'e- 
lighted  with  the  beautiful  and  extensive  Central 
Park,  and  were  pleased  to  see  the  p:gyptian  Obelisk 
standing  on  a  prominent  knoll  in  tlie  park.  On 
Wednesday  morning  we  crossed  the  Hudson  River 
on  the  ferry-boat  to- Jersey  City,  where  we  took  the 


-<U  OITR   TOUR   AKOUNI)   THE  WOHI.I) 

« 

fast  expresH  (rain  at  8:80  for   Lexington,  Kentucky, 
by  way  of  Pliilndelpliin,  iiaJtiniore  and  Washington 
City.     We  arrived  at  VVaHJiingtnn  at  1:42  p.  M.,and 
stoj)ped   i>i\  In  visit    the  Capitol,  the  Washington 
Monuinctit  and  the  While  IToiiso.    We  walked  through 
th(^  Il<)iis(M)l'   Ke|)n!.^entativeH,  the  Senate  Chaniher 
and  the  other  principal  rooms  and  halls  of  the  Cap- 
itol.  Tlie  \Vasliington  Monument  stands  on  an  emi- 
nence, overlooking  the  city.     It  is  555  feet  high,  is 
square  and  tapers   gradually  to  the  top.     There  is  a 
spiral  stairway  on  the  inside,  by  which  you  can  as- 
cend to  the  top.     An  elevator  operated  by  the  Gov- 
ernment also  goes  to  the   summit  every  half-hour. 
No  charge  is  made  for  its  use.     Of  course  we  took 
the  elevator.     The  President  was  not  at  home,  but 
we  saw  him  arrive  at  the   Union  Depot  on   a  train 
from  New  York,  shortly  before  eleven  at  night.   After 
driving  over  the  city  Mrs. Trotter  pronounced  Wash- 
ington  next  to  Paris  in  beauty.     In  the  evening  we 
spent  considerable  time  in  a  restaurant,  eating  ice- 
cream.    The  colored  waiter  went  back  and  forth  re- 
plenishing our  plates  till   his  white  teeth   began  to  i' 
shine  as  an  unmistakable  token  of  his  amusement. 
At  11 :10  P.M.  we  took  the  train  over  the  Chesapeake 
and  Ohio  route,  and  the  next  morning  we  looked  out 
on  the  rugged,  heavily   wooded  mountains  and  hills 
on  both  sides  of  us.    Descending  from  the  mountain 
ranges,  we  soon  entered  the  Blue-grass  region  of  Ken- 
tucky, and  at  6  p.  m.,  Thursday,    August  23,  1894, 
we  arrived  at  Lexington,   our  starting  point,   thus 
completing  Our  Tour  Around  the  World.    At  homel 
Here  we  will  let  the  curtain  fall. 


/ 


' 


LETTER  XUV. 

CONCLUSION. 

I  HAVE  been  frequently  asked  two  important 
que8tions,which  I  will  liere  briefly  answer.  1.  "Did 
your  observations  in  Palestine  serve  to  confirm  your 
faith  in  the  accuracy  of  the  Scriptures?"  2.  "Wliat 
is  the  best  time  of  the  year  for  paying  a  visit  to  the 
Holy  Land  and  the  Continent?" 

To  the  first  question  I  have  no  hesitation  in  re- 
plying with  emphasis,  y>8.  ICrnestRenan,  the  ableit 
and  most  polished  writer  belonging  to  the  Frencii 
School  of  Skeptics,  in  his  "Life  of  Jesus,"  says: 

"The  scientific  commission  for  the  exploration  of 
ancient  Phenicia,  of  which  I  was  thedirector  in  18(30 
/  and  1861,  led  me  to  reside  on  the  frontiers  of  Galilee, 

and  to  traverse  it  frequently.  I  have  travelled  through 
the  evangelical  province  in  every  direction;  I  hav<? 
visited  Jerusalem,  Hebron  and  Samaria;  scarcely 
liny  locality  important  in  the  history  of  Jesus  has  es- 
caped me.  All  this  history  which,  at  a  distnnce, 
seemed  floating  in  the  clouds  of  a.i  unreal  world, 
thus  assumed  a  body,  a  solidity  which  a9tonishe<l 
me.  The  striking  accord  of  the  texts  and  the  places, 
the  wonderful  harmony  of  the  evangelical  ideal  with 
the  landscape  which  served  as  its   setting,    wer.^   to 

265 


i 


2()(i  OUR  TOUR  AROUND  THE   WORLD 

lue  a  revelation.  I  had  before  my  eyes  a  fifth  gospel, 
lorn  but  still  legible,  and  thenceforth,  through  the 
iiArratives  of  Matthew  and  Mark,  instead  of  an  ab- 
stract being,  which  one  would  say  had  never  existed, 
1  saw  a  wonderful  human  form  live  and  move." 

TJiis  is  a  frank  confession  which  must  be  made  by 
t'very  unbiased  and  intelligent  person   who  sees  Pal- 
estine as  Kenan  saw   it.     This   "striking  accord   of 
the  texts  and  the  places,  the  wonderful  harmony  of 
the  evangelical  ideal  with  the  landscape  which  served 
as  its  setting,"  were  not  only  a  revelation  to  Renan, 
but  they  constituted  the  principal  reasons  that  forced 
liim  to  the  conclusion  which  he  expresses  in  these 
words:  "Upon  the  whole, I  accept  the  four  canonical 
gospels  as  authentic.     All,    in  my  judgment,   date 
back  to  the  first  century,  and  they  are  substantially 
by  the  authors  to  whom  they  are  attributed;  but  in 
historic  value,  they  are  very  unequal."   So  far  as  my 
observations  in  the  Holy  Land  have  gone,my  experi- 
ence respecting  the  "wonderful   harmony"  between 
the  texts  of  the  New  Testament  and  the  places  and 
things  described  was  substantially  in  accord  with  the 
experience   of  Ilenan.     Indeed,  the  correspondence 
between  the  land  and  the  Book  seems  to  be  complete. 
The  "fifth  gospel" is  a  living  witness  to  and  a  strik- 
ing confirmation  of  the  historical  accuracy  of  the 
other  four.  All  the  references  of  these  gospel  writers 
to  the  manners  and  customs  of  the  people, the  cities, 
towns,    mountains,    hills,    valleys,     plains,    lakes, 
streams,  relative  levels,  animals,  plants,  etc.,  of  the 
country  which  they  describe  are  found  absolutely 


CONCLUSION  2(i7 

correct  iu  every  detail.  This  fact  becomes  the  more 
remarkable  when  it  is  remembered  that  it  cannot  he 
truthfully  asserted  for  any  book  except  the  Bible. 
Numerous  books  have  been  written  on  Palestine  by 
able  authors.  Able  guide-books  have  been  prepared  on 
the  Holy  Land  by  learned  gentlemen  who  have  spent 
years  exploring  the  country  with  the  assistance  ol" 
modern  science, so  as  to  give  to  the  traveller  the  most 
reliable  information  possible  respecting  the  places 
and  things  described.  But  all  these  books  contain 
more  or  less  mistakes,  which  may  be  easily  pointed 
out.  But  the  Gospel  writers  have  made  no  mistake-s. 
The  New  Testament,  in  some  respects,  is  therefore 
the  best  guide-book  to  Palestine.  Its  writers  not 
only  lived  and  moved  among  the  scenes  about  which 
they  have  so  accurately  written,  but  they  must  have 
been  also  guided  in  a  way  that  no  writer  at  the  pres- 
ent time  is  guided.  It  seems  to  me  that  these  facts 
alone  are  sufficient  to  make  out  a  clear  case  in  favor 
of  the  divine  origin  of  Christianity.  For  it  is  simply 
incredible  that  these  writers  who  lived  and  movetl 
among  the  scenes  about  which  they  were  writing 
would  record  so  faithfully  the  ordinary  facts  of  gos- 
pel history,  and  then  blander  in  recording  the  mira- 
cles of  Jesus,  including  His  resurrection  from  the 
dead.  The  acceptance  of  the  divine  origin  of  Chris- 
tianity is  the  only  reasonable  way  we  see  out  of  the 
difficulty.  I  have  no  fears  for  the  ultim...e  triumph 
of  the  Bible  over  all  forms  of  opposition.  Destruc- 
tive criticism  has  spent  its  force,  and  has  already 
received  its  death-blow, as  Professor  Sayce  and  other 


268 


OUR  TOUR  AROUND  THE   WORLD 


archsBologifitsand  Biblical  scholars  have  ably  shown, 
from  Ihe  pick  and  the  spade  which  have  brought  to 
light  and  are  continuing  to  do  so  much  monumental 
evidence  confirmatory  of  the  facts  of  the  Bible.  In 
the  end  the  Bible  will  be  found  to  be  true,  though 
every  man  should  be  proved  a  liar. 

In  answering  the  second  question  I  may  say  that 
my  own  experience  is  decidedly  in  favor  of  visiting 
Egypt,  Palestine  and  the  Continent  during  the  months 
of  July,  August  and  September,  when  the  great  pro- 
cession of  tourists  has  ceased  to  pour  into  and  out  of 
them.     As  a  rule,  you  will  not  find  the  weather  too 
hot,    you   will    receive  the  undivided    attention  of 
guides  and  servants, the  best  accommodation  afforded 
by  the  hotels,  boats  and  railways,  and  in  many  cases 
for  less  than  half  the  price  you  would  have  to  pay 
during  the  tourist  season.    It  is  not  always  pleasant 
to  be  hustled  about  all  day  in  a  crush  of  selfish  sight- 
seers,  and    then   be  stowed   away  at  night  in    the 
hall  way  or  baggage  room,   while  the  women  and 
children  occupy  all  the  beds  in  the  hotels  and  board- 
nig-houses.     Then,  too,  during  the  summer  months 
you  will  have  the  advantage  of  a  cloudless  sky,  the 
absence  of  chilly  weather  and  the  benefit  of  refresh- 
ing sleep  at  night.  But  respecting  this  matter,  1  may 
finally  s  ./,  let  every  man  be  fully  persuaded  in  his 
own  mir*d. 


-rr:^ 


.j^nuvatiiiL^iW^f  v^.^lVr^'  - 


